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Posts posted by *Hans*
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It doesn't have to be difficult , and:
First - a dremel rotary tool (or any other brand of course) is very handy for these kind of jobs
Second - oak is tough and strong. I think if I would drop the hull there wouldn't be real damage to it. With the regular modelkit wood I'm not sure about this.
A rat tail file might be the better option if you're using walnut or basswood
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As promised: pictures of making the holes for the oars:
First step is to mark the right spots and rough diameter. I used an old fashioned letter template for this:
Then simply drill the holes with a 3 mm drill (rather difficult to drill and make a photo - the drill is actually turning, but the flash makes it not visible):
With a round cutter widened the wholes until the approx diameter is reached:
Then with some sort of whetstone (don't know how else I should call this) in the right diameter done the last step:
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Very nice! What tool(s) did you use for boring the holes? I'm pretty nervous about making the oar ports on my current build (when I get that far, that is), since I'm afraid I'll damage the hull in the process.
Sharpie, will post some pictures on how i did it. It is quite simple
VERY nice work Hans and I like the weathering of the oak you did. I think you are right in not adding stain to it, perhaps a clear mat sealer to preserve the wood?
Cheers,
Piet, I am not sure yet, will do some trials.
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In fact this ship isn't that difficult. After making the substructure for the second row of seats I added the deck in between them. Quite simple with wooden stirrers again.
After this I started with aging the oak by treating it with ammoniac. This gives a dark shade over the wood. Not sure if I will stain it further - have to make some samples
Also made the first row of holes for the oars:
And I started with the frames for the third row of seats:
Here my new circular saw is quite handy
- cog, Tecko, GrandpaPhil and 7 others
- 10
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Looking great! I wish I had seen this a couple of years ago; the structure for mounting the seats is so much more sensible than what I came up with for my trireme.
I quite agree with this. While I do admire the skill that goes into constructing a model on which every piece of wood is perfectly smooth, I can't help but feel that this would be somewhat unrealistic for a ship constructed entirely with iron saws and hand axes. Not to say that the classical civilizations were incapable of producing a smooth piece of wood, it just seems unlikely that every plank on a 37-meter warship would have been planed perfectly flat.
To be honest - this is a bit of a handicap which turns out to be (at least in my opinion) an advantage.
I am a bit of a sloppy builder - when I make some planks in say 4 x 4 mm in turns out that some of them are not exactly square, or the saw has ripped out some splinters or so. Never mind then I say to myself - in real this would have happened as well.
In the end my models turn out to be nice, with rough edges, but having a live and vivid character. Just like the real ones after many years of use.
(but this is also a long excuse for simply saying I'm not that a skilled builder.... )
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- GrandpaPhil, Mirabell61, garywatt and 6 others
- 9
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Sharpie, you're doing a really fine job over here, with all the research! I think this will become a quite accurate model - although there is no real ancient model to compare it with.
I saw a picture somewhere (don't know where it was - appearently not in this topic) where you were talking about an airpump - but to my opinion this is just a waterpump.
You might have noticed I am busy on the Trireme at this moment. It is build in the usual kit-style, not plank on frame, not to the most accurate ancient methods like yours, and with a lot of my own input in it. What a luck I have no ancient vessel has remained....
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Hey Jan, which Jan are you on the Dutch forum???
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Planking of the hull is merely finished - and the ram on the bow is getting its shape.
When you make a mixture of oakdust and diluted white glue the oak will start to discolor to black a bit.
Fortunately this again will be covered by the further planking of the bow and the ram.
And a few pictures for Don, showing the inside so far:
- Louie da fly, GrandpaPhil, Piet and 5 others
- 8
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Hi Hans, have not started mine yet but before week is out, have you got pictures of inside construction, and are you following Dusek instructions, Thanks again Don
Don,
I shall post some pictures within the next days. And in overall I follow the Dusek instructions, but I will add a personal touch as well.
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- mtaylor, Omega1234, GrandpaPhil and 3 others
- 6
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Looking at your pictures - and knowing the model a bit it is quite a tough one to plank!
- Vivian Galad and Piet
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Don Farr, please feel free to ask your questions any time you want.
I think I also do have the Dusek kit - which is coded D004. But as you have read I have upscaled it to 1:35 - twice as big.
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I didn't realize triremes were so big, I've always thought of them as being little vessels.
Lextin.
I have to make a big apologize to all the readers - because I made a big mistake in scale.
The Batavia on the picture is 1:72 - but the Trireme is 1:35 (the original kit is 1:72) - ooopppsss
This means the trireme is "only" about 35 meters or 100 feet..
Here some pictures for a better idea - the bireme and the trireme
- WackoWolf, ioannis, qwerty2008 and 8 others
- 11
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- Piet, flying_dutchman2, mtaylor and 4 others
- 7
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This is a nice way of building a ship - quite something diffirent from bulkheads and planking.
Keep up the good work Kees!
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Superb job Kees - schitterend!
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- Vivian Galad, Piet, Nikiforos and 7 others
- 10
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Hey Mauro, very nice ship you are building here!
I suppose you do have some plans for this ship, to make her.
Are these plans for sale via stores on the internet?
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Marc,
I am about to try the combination of soaked oak and an electric bender - see if this will work.
- mtaylor and Mirabell61
- 2
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From a bunch of wooden stirrers I had bought I have made the deckplanking of the lowest deck, and some oak beams (glued 4 of them on each other). These Beams are the base of the seats (made out of beech). Two small undeep holes plus some oak stain make the dowel-mounting of the seats:
For the planking a rather strong curving is neccesary. As I have planned to make the hull out of oak I first tried to bend some oak strips 6 x 2 mm over the "wrong" side, but even after two days in water this did not work.
After some adjustments on my circular saw I now can make oak strips 3 x 3 mm - will try out the next days if this will work.
4 x 4 mm was still a bit to thick.
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Roman Quadrireme c. 300 AD by Sharpie - Scale 1/48 - Partial Cutaway
in - Subjects built Up to and including 1500 AD
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170 pieces or so - all 4 x 4 mm to be sanded round and flat - man! what a joy!