_SalD_

Cabin Skylights:
After assembling the aft cabin skylight I noticed that the laser etched positioning guidelines on the roof were way to big for the skylight.  I chose to fill in three of the four guidelines with wood filler and then repaint the roof.

Repainted roof

Skylights glued to roof

Funnel assembly:
The funnel assembly was next and the first thing I did was to clean up the britiannia steam pipe and whistle.

After cleaning and straightening.

The funnel was assembled per the instructions using the card stock wrapped around a wooden dowel. I used a scrap piece of dowel inserted in the upper part of the funnel to keep me from crushing the card stock while handling it.

Painted funnel

The two ventilators were cleaned up and painted

Completed funnel assembly

She has her teeth!
After installing the gun ports lids the cannons were added.  I had the same problem as rcmdrvr had in his build that the cannons were too high for the port openings.  I used a suggestion made by Snug Harbor Johnny in rcmdrvr's build to file down the carriage bottoms and the carriage wheels in order to gain some room.  This worked out well and you can hardly notice the flattened wheels with the guns on deck.

I had some 2mm blocks left over from another build so I decided that I would add the out haul rigging.  

Rope coils were made to be added later.

I also decided on this build that I would show the in haul rigging as well.
Aft cannons

 
Forward cannons

All her teeth

 
 

She has her teeth!
After installing the gun ports lids the cannons were added.  I had the same problem as rcmdrvr had in his build that the cannons were too high for the port openings.  I used a suggestion made by Snug Harbor Johnny in rcmdrvr's build to file down the carriage bottoms and the carriage wheels in order to gain some room.  This worked out well and you can hardly notice the flattened wheels with the guns on deck.

I had some 2mm blocks left over from another build so I decided that I would add the out haul rigging.  

Rope coils were made to be added later.

I also decided on this build that I would show the in haul rigging as well.
Aft cannons

 
Forward cannons

All her teeth

 
 

Update
 
After making two trial dummies as covers for two of the 3 boats I decided to use the card-made version, when varnished in silk appeal it looks like weathered canvas. The open boat will have no cover.....
 
Nils

 

Stern and Quarter Galleries
 
First up, trim out the stern piece with some tiny strip stock, paint and decorate with the PE brass decorations, painted.  
 

 
Now for the Quarter Galleries.  As is common practice, at least with MS kits, these are provides as Britannia metal bits.  These are just sad.  They really don't fit together or with the hull.  Not sure how anyone manages to make these look good.  I don't think I can.
 

 
So I decided to scratch build the galleries.  I have the Confederacy kit from MS in my queue to do and Chuck's design builds up the galleries from parts supplied - a much superior design.  I'm going to shamelessly steal what makes sense from those instructions, modifying as I need to fit this model.  One of the main differences will be I don't need to make the windows clear because there's nothing to see back here on this kit - just a plank wall.  
 
Starting by making a "floor" piece.  This is sort of just eyeballed as to shape, taking the length from the plans.
 

 
Then added a slightly smaller piece of similar shape below it, attached to the bottom of the lower counter board.  These horizontal parts are 1/16" scrap stock.
 

 
Next I need to make a "wall" between the 2 pieces.  I could have made this lower section by laminating some thicker pieces, as I ended up doing with the upper part coming up later.  But I decided to try using some 1/32" stock to make a planking sort of deal.  I used the traced frog tape method to make a spiled piece to fit.  It is basically made tight enough to be a press fit in here - I did not try to make any framing behind it.  
 

 
I did however make a frame for the curved window wall, which is a bit of 1/32" sheet with the grain vertical for easy bending.  
 

 
This followed by another thin skin, this one cut out for the laser cut window frames
 

 
Moving on to the drops.  Used some suitably sized scrap to try to make an approximation of the shape of the bottom of the provided lower part.  This one has an eagle molded in, which I'll have to forego.  Oh well...
 

 
And here I've glued them to the floor and begun filling and shaping.  Need lots of wood filler here.
 

 
Moving to the upper part.  For these I laminated a thick and a thin piece, then carved and sanded down to a pleasing shape.
 

 
For the tops, the plans show this one has a little roof like thing with "shingles".  I decided I wanted to show these.  Luckily I happen to have a nice Japanese screw punch (it's a bookbinding tool) from my card modelling days.  It makes nice little circles (or holes, depending on what you need).  Cut in half and glued on makes a nice shingle effect.  
 

 
Fast forward a little after some finishing and painting.  There are some PE brass decorations that will go on a couple of places, but I'm going to hold off on that until near the end.  I'm pleased with the way these came out, and MUCH happier than I'd been trying to make those metal parts work.
 

 

Thank you very much for your nice comment B.E., much appreciated
 
I just put on the bow- and stern depth markings and the Lloyds Register "Plymsoll" marking.
 
Nils
 

stern in normal lettering

bow in roman lettering

Your ingenuity knows no bounds Nils, and I just love the look of the painted hull, such realism.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

A very clear explanation of the process, nils.
 
John

intermediate session
 
after experiencing the make of the boats for 5 Elbe in scale 1:50, and for the liner Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse in scale 1:160, I needed boats in scale ( H0 ) 1:87 for this project. I documented the building sequences for my own backup anyhow and thought it might be interesting for my fellow builders, whoever may require selfmade boats in special scales. So I`m sharing this intermediate session to whom it may concern. I still had some leftover two-component resin to allow the pruduction (material wise) of 3 identical double-ender lifeboats for Ergenstrasse.  It would have been total 4 boats if I had not forgotten by mistake to mix enough hardener component there. Now my resin is used up and 3 boats will also do.
 
Nils
wooden halfplug
fake clinkering application of half plug (double-ender)
 

 
 

boxing for the silicon mold. Tapered filler logs to save quantity of silicon material used
setting of the halfplug into the mold and filling in silicon, use seperation wax spray for both plug and mold
silicon mold for casting the boats from
this is the second plug for the inner boat shapes, to be inserted into the silicon mold. Use temp. spacers for checking wallthicknesses and position of the plug. (fixing withe needles)
 
 

Two-compont resin into the mold with inserted plug. Use seperation spay wax for both plag and mold before casting
result after the resin is cured and the part removed from the mold ( inside view)
 

outside view

persons maximum capacity check when seated

preparing for cutting out the cockpit deck area
 
 

glueing 2 halves together

 

cut out cockpit cover. The boats length is 108 mm without the rudder
 

the open boat (without outer painting and rudder) is completed

 



there will also be some oars for the boat


 
 
 
 

Looks great!

That's so great to hear! To me, one of the great joys of model building isn't assembling, but understanding. You've done a great job on this model, it'll be an excellent highlight wherever you choose to display it.
 
As for next model suggestions, while I can't know what would give you joy, if it were me, I'd go with one of their cargo vessels (tanker, Liberty ship, etc.). Lots of people build warships but merchant vessels are far less well represented in the modeling world and are fascinating in their own right. And it'd be a fitting tribute to all the sailors who served on such vessels but get only a fraction of the recognition their more famous naval colleagues receive.

Well overcome, Sal. See my PM to you.

Bowsprit & bowsprit cap:
I shaped and fitted the bowsprit as called for in the instructions along with the bowsprit cap.  The card bands and gammoning strap were added. I chose to paint the bands black instead of white as shown in the instructions.  I like the contrast and how they show up better.

Bobstays:
The two bobstay chains were added.

Bow fairlead:
Things were going along well until I got to this step.  As you can see in the picture below my two attempts at bending this piece ended up in failure.  The two pieces were both soaked AND steamed but they still broke as I tried to bend them around the 1/8" dowel.  I do believe however that the way the pieces are positioned on the wood sheet makes them almost impossible the bend without breaking. The piece is layout so you are bending it along the grain instead of across the grain (if that make sense).  I made my own piece so the bend was across the grain and I had no problem bending it.

Fairlead painted and installed.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Bowsprit & bowsprit cap:
I shaped and fitted the bowsprit as called for in the instructions along with the bowsprit cap.  The card bands and gammoning strap were added. I chose to paint the bands black instead of white as shown in the instructions.  I like the contrast and how they show up better.

Bobstays:
The two bobstay chains were added.

Bow fairlead:
Things were going along well until I got to this step.  As you can see in the picture below my two attempts at bending this piece ended up in failure.  The two pieces were both soaked AND steamed but they still broke as I tried to bend them around the 1/8" dowel.  I do believe however that the way the pieces are positioned on the wood sheet makes them almost impossible the bend without breaking. The piece is layout so you are bending it along the grain instead of across the grain (if that make sense).  I made my own piece so the bend was across the grain and I had no problem bending it.

Fairlead painted and installed.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Bowsprit & bowsprit cap:
I shaped and fitted the bowsprit as called for in the instructions along with the bowsprit cap.  The card bands and gammoning strap were added. I chose to paint the bands black instead of white as shown in the instructions.  I like the contrast and how they show up better.

Bobstays:
The two bobstay chains were added.

Bow fairlead:
Things were going along well until I got to this step.  As you can see in the picture below my two attempts at bending this piece ended up in failure.  The two pieces were both soaked AND steamed but they still broke as I tried to bend them around the 1/8" dowel.  I do believe however that the way the pieces are positioned on the wood sheet makes them almost impossible the bend without breaking. The piece is layout so you are bending it along the grain instead of across the grain (if that make sense).  I made my own piece so the bend was across the grain and I had no problem bending it.

Fairlead painted and installed.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Bowsprit & bowsprit cap:
I shaped and fitted the bowsprit as called for in the instructions along with the bowsprit cap.  The card bands and gammoning strap were added. I chose to paint the bands black instead of white as shown in the instructions.  I like the contrast and how they show up better.

Bobstays:
The two bobstay chains were added.

Bow fairlead:
Things were going along well until I got to this step.  As you can see in the picture below my two attempts at bending this piece ended up in failure.  The two pieces were both soaked AND steamed but they still broke as I tried to bend them around the 1/8" dowel.  I do believe however that the way the pieces are positioned on the wood sheet makes them almost impossible the bend without breaking. The piece is layout so you are bending it along the grain instead of across the grain (if that make sense).  I made my own piece so the bend was across the grain and I had no problem bending it.

Fairlead painted and installed.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Small update.  The aft companion ways and skylights were assembled and installed along with the rudderhead housing and compass pedestal.  The companion ways are a little smaller than the laser etched guidelines in the deck used to position them so the lines do show a bit at the ends.  For future reference to myself, I like the simulated decking but I wish I hadn't showed the butt ends of the planking.  It came out too dark.

The bulwark rails were fitted and glued in place.  I chose to stain the railing.

Ship as of today.  I need a better background

I also would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
 

Congratulations on completing the ship, she goods great.  Nicely done.   

I have completed my Harriet Lane model.  I have to apologize, however, that my photo taking and postings to this build have been somewhat ignored in the process.  I want to thank Cathead for his rigging suggestions.  I spent some time on this site reading other postings and builds that focused on rigging.  I learned quite abit.  As I read, the plans and rigging views provided with the kit began to make more sense.  Where possible I did some re-rigging and I think I managed to get most of the standing rigging where it belongs.  Looking at the completed model, it is not a museum piece but it will be a nice addition to my shop.  I will continue to follow SalD's build because he is taking a more meticulous approach to the model that I admire and will use in the future.  Finally, I want to thank the designer of this kit.  It is a fairly complex build; but, for the most part, the plans and instructions lead the builder thru the process without too much difficulty.  I very much like the photographic approach in the instructions; I would recommend even more.  If any of the readers have wanted a model of an early steamer; this would be a nice addition.
 
I have to decide on my next project.  I have a few kits of various sailing vessels sitting around; but I think I would like to try a model of a more modern ship.  Looking at some of Bluejacket's offerings of WWII ships.  Any suggestions.
 
Thanks to all that read and commented on this build.  Here are photos of the completed model:
 

Thank you very much Yves,
 
I`m still working on the plug for the clinkered lifeboats .For the lapstraking I`m using  two-layer stripe foil before cutting them. Otherwise they would`nt show the lapstrake appeal after painting.
Boats in scale 1:87, taking up (in scale) 15 persons or so could not be found, so I`m doing them myself
 
Nils

some srap ply layers were glued to a block to shape the raw plug

 

Many thanks John,
I`m pleased you like it. I just put the lettering on...
 
Nils

 

 

 

Update
 
Started with the painting of the hull. The paint sticks on quite well together with the used promoting bounding primer for shiny aluminium. The lettering (names, homeport) is not yet attached but already printed in white letters on self adhesive black background foil (cut out patches).
I also started with the ships boats, because they are double-ender lifeboats, It will only require 1/2 a boat as a plug for doing the silicon mould. They will be cast in resin. Each two halves will be glued together, (total 8 halves), trimmed and 4 boats then brought to final shape.
I shall try to get some appropriate decals in transparent with white lettering for the front and aft depth markings, and for the Plymsoll mark midships
 
Nils

the sub-waterline is "African red" silk, acrylic paint, the upper hull is silk black, a silicone based black paint used  for iron stoves and thear ductwork

 
 

 

 

the lettering printed on black foil (for cutting out patches)
 

preparing to make 1/2 a plug for the silicon mold for the ships boats that will be cast in resin afterwards
 

many thanks for looking in druxey

many thanks for looking in druxey

many thanks for looking in druxey