Landlubber Mike

That's what I use:
 
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-wood-glue/
 
I haven't tried Titebond or some of the other glues people use here, but the Gorilla glue dries clear and has very good adhesive power.  It's all I've been using since starting the hobby.

Beautiful work Mark.  Everything looks so crisp!
 
Interesting result with the Danish oil.  I used it on some test pieces and it seemed to impart a little more of a yellow hue, but maybe I was using a lighter colored wood.  

Copper, of course. 
I might be a masochist, but I'm not that bad yet... then again, model ships.. hmm.. 

There is also so embossed paper sheets of brick stock that MicroMark pedals.
 
Mark, the firebox looks good. You need to dirty it up, to give it a used look.

Very nice Mark.  I was looking for something similar for the try works for my Morgan and saw that plastic sheet stuff.  Looks great!
 
If you're a masochist, these look interesting.  I've considered trying them out to see how the finish:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Extremely-Tiny-Real-miniature-bricks-HO-OO-N-scale-railway-wargame-diorama/161304880942?hash=item258e85272e:g:AG4AAOxyBvZTQ9PQ
 

Very nice Mark.  I was looking for something similar for the try works for my Morgan and saw that plastic sheet stuff.  Looks great!
 
If you're a masochist, these look interesting.  I've considered trying them out to see how the finish:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Extremely-Tiny-Real-miniature-bricks-HO-OO-N-scale-railway-wargame-diorama/161304880942?hash=item258e85272e:g:AG4AAOxyBvZTQ9PQ
 

Thanks O.C.!
 
Thanks Mike - after sitting a few days,the test strip with the Danish oil was slightly darker than the one with the poly.I just finished applying the poly to the hull & will have some pics as soon as it is dry enough to handle.
 
Mark 

Beautiful work Mark.  Everything looks so crisp!
 
Interesting result with the Danish oil.  I used it on some test pieces and it seemed to impart a little more of a yellow hue, but maybe I was using a lighter colored wood.  

Thanks for the good word mike.
 
OC.

Very nice Mark.  I was looking for something similar for the try works for my Morgan and saw that plastic sheet stuff.  Looks great!
 
If you're a masochist, these look interesting.  I've considered trying them out to see how the finish:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Extremely-Tiny-Real-miniature-bricks-HO-OO-N-scale-railway-wargame-diorama/161304880942?hash=item258e85272e:g:AG4AAOxyBvZTQ9PQ
 

That's what I use:
 
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-wood-glue/
 
I haven't tried Titebond or some of the other glues people use here, but the Gorilla glue dries clear and has very good adhesive power.  It's all I've been using since starting the hobby.

Go for the balsa if it works.  My own experience has proven that holly is fantastic for the tiny frames used in the ship's boats as well as the planking.  First they are easy to cut to shape with the floor area having a moulded dimension that is more than the higher portion of each frame and when soaked in water for a few minutes, they can be bent quite easily around a carved plug that is the shape of the boat.   Pure white holly is getting harder to come by but the off white wood should be easy enough to find and it does not take much wood to have enough for a fleet of ships' boats frames.
 
 

Very nice Mark.  I was looking for something similar for the try works for my Morgan and saw that plastic sheet stuff.  Looks great!
 
If you're a masochist, these look interesting.  I've considered trying them out to see how the finish:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Extremely-Tiny-Real-miniature-bricks-HO-OO-N-scale-railway-wargame-diorama/161304880942?hash=item258e85272e:g:AG4AAOxyBvZTQ9PQ
 

Very nice Mark.  I was looking for something similar for the try works for my Morgan and saw that plastic sheet stuff.  Looks great!
 
If you're a masochist, these look interesting.  I've considered trying them out to see how the finish:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Extremely-Tiny-Real-miniature-bricks-HO-OO-N-scale-railway-wargame-diorama/161304880942?hash=item258e85272e:g:AG4AAOxyBvZTQ9PQ
 

More progress with the steps today,  as the weather has changed again  so some bench time was calling me,   I finnished  the steps by cutting the length to suit the deck height, then after a bit of sanding to get a tight but accurate fit, I applied a small amount of pva and set them in place, after a few hours I finnished with a coat of flat top coat to seal them in.
 
Just the one photo -
 
OC.

Since I'm working on the fireplaces, here's a picture now that the iron bars the pots sit on have been installed.  I still have the exterior to plank and the pots to make.  The flash made them redder than then actually are as they're more of a red-brown or rust color.  I wanted them to look like they had been used.
 

 
 

Hi everyone - more progress! Fist, the anchor davits were made from the supplied wood - the simulated sheaves were formed with a small round file after drilling the holes. Then the openings were made in the bulwarks & the davits were glued in place along with the knees. Next, I thought it would be a good time to do the roundhouses. The parts list showed them as pre-formed pieces,but darned if I could find them,so I made them from a walnut dowel cut in half & added some brass eyelets from the fabric shop. Finally the mouldings were added - they were made from some leftover brass moulding from another build
 

 
The caprails were then made from the supplied wood(sapelli). Since this wood is 2x12mm it was pretty much impossible to bend around the tight curves. The tightly curved areas were done by cutting small pieces to go around the curves,then after a lot of filing & sanding the joints they were painted black. You can see the joints in the close-up,but at arm`s length they look just fine. I think they pass the running horse test.
 

 

 

 
Mark
 
Mark

Update - the wales have now been added. I painted the edges black before gluing them on,then finished the painting after installing them. Also,some mouldings were added on the upper part of the hull. The instructions said to file a groove in some strips then round off the edges with sandpaper to make the mouldings. I have a better way - I got some of those micro shapers & had them made in no time at all.
 

 
As far as finishing the lower part of the hull,I coated some scrap pieces with Danish oil & polyurethane to see the difference. The upper one is the Danish oil finish,& the lower one is the poly finish. As you can see,there is very little difference. I am probably going to use the polyurethane because of the toughness of the finish. The oil finish looks nice,but any little glue spots(which there are a few) will show up as light spots because the oil won`t soak in. I`m afraid that I will sand clear through the veneer in places to get 100% of the glue spots off.
 

 
Mark

Thank you Michael, Mike and who liked...
A small update.
I do not know if I've done the right thing about the ropes of the anchors but there isn't any guide on the plans, in fact there isn't any rope in this area... It's my decision, right or wrong... :-/
Grating is now on its own place...
And there are somewhere some few blocks fixed on the masts...

Wow those gratings are amazing.  Very nicely done!

Finally finished the first planking of the lower hull.  Ended up coming out really nicely I think - I might not have to use any filler at all, except maybe around the stern area with that turn up into the counter.  I still need to clean up a bit around the stern and bow, which I'll need to do by hand, but I used a palm sander outside today to sand the planking down.  Wow, does that make life much easier!  Was so quick to sand the hull, I still remember doing the Badger by hand and it taking forever.  
 
I'm now a big convert to bow and stern filler blocks, they really help!  A big thank you to Pete who suggested using them in his build notes.  One thing I started wondering is whether even if you're doing a POB kit, whether just adding filler blocks through the full area such that you don't even have to bother with a first planking would be quicker and easier than going through the first planking, sanding, filling, etc., and then adding the second (essentially, converting it to a solid hull).  Guess it depends how easy it is for the person to do filler blocks.
 
Some pictures of where I am:



One issue that has been bothering me is the fact that the kit provided different wood for the stem/rudder versus that for the keel.  The stem/rudder I believe is walnut, and the keel might be ramin.  The color difference between the two is too striking for my liking:

 
I was originally thinking of painting the lower hull white which would have made this a non-issue, but given how far I'm pushing on this build, I think I'm going to leave the hull natural.  I don't want to chance using a stain to even the colors out, because then I would have to use stain on the planking itself which leads to more chance of something looking out of place.  So, instead, I think I'm going to buy new wood for the stem, rudder, and lower hull planking.  I dropped the hull while planking it a while back and the stem snapped right off, so I think taking it off again should be ok.  The keel is a bit of a different story because I drilled the pedestal holes into it, and it's secured into the false keel by brass rod.  So, what I'll likely do is laminate the keel with thin walnut, and then maybe try darkening the very bottom a bit to avoid any oddities (people shouldn't really be able to see the bottom of the keel though).  Going this route will also be helpful in that I think I would like to spile the full hull as a challenge to myself (for my Pegasus, I only spiled planks up to the copper plating line.
 
Jason from Crown Timberyard is back up and running and has been very helpful in answering some of my questions. He sells both a dark walnut and mahogany.  I want the upper hull to be lighter in color than the lower hull, and I found a nice lighter cherry veneer that should do nicely.  I'm leaning towards using Jason's walnut over the mahogany as I think the colors will work better together.  Mahogany looks beautiful, but as a chocolate/orange/rich brown, I don't think that using cherry for the upper hull will work well.  Walnut and cherry though seem to complement each other nicely, at least what I've seen in other build logs.  Certainly welcome to any thoughts, ideas or suggestions!
 
Next, I'm thinking of working on the gun deck - planking, hatches, etc.  A nice respite before having to go back to planking the hull.

Thanks for everyone that offered thoughts on what to do with the last bulkhead.  I ended up adding two planking strips to it, then fairing the bulkhead back to the original line on the aft side.  Seems to have worked very well - I now have a firm, wider surface to glue the end of the planks to, while having a nice smooth transition to the stern.
 

Finally finished the first planking of the lower hull.  Ended up coming out really nicely I think - I might not have to use any filler at all, except maybe around the stern area with that turn up into the counter.  I still need to clean up a bit around the stern and bow, which I'll need to do by hand, but I used a palm sander outside today to sand the planking down.  Wow, does that make life much easier!  Was so quick to sand the hull, I still remember doing the Badger by hand and it taking forever.  
 
I'm now a big convert to bow and stern filler blocks, they really help!  A big thank you to Pete who suggested using them in his build notes.  One thing I started wondering is whether even if you're doing a POB kit, whether just adding filler blocks through the full area such that you don't even have to bother with a first planking would be quicker and easier than going through the first planking, sanding, filling, etc., and then adding the second (essentially, converting it to a solid hull).  Guess it depends how easy it is for the person to do filler blocks.
 
Some pictures of where I am:



One issue that has been bothering me is the fact that the kit provided different wood for the stem/rudder versus that for the keel.  The stem/rudder I believe is walnut, and the keel might be ramin.  The color difference between the two is too striking for my liking:

 
I was originally thinking of painting the lower hull white which would have made this a non-issue, but given how far I'm pushing on this build, I think I'm going to leave the hull natural.  I don't want to chance using a stain to even the colors out, because then I would have to use stain on the planking itself which leads to more chance of something looking out of place.  So, instead, I think I'm going to buy new wood for the stem, rudder, and lower hull planking.  I dropped the hull while planking it a while back and the stem snapped right off, so I think taking it off again should be ok.  The keel is a bit of a different story because I drilled the pedestal holes into it, and it's secured into the false keel by brass rod.  So, what I'll likely do is laminate the keel with thin walnut, and then maybe try darkening the very bottom a bit to avoid any oddities (people shouldn't really be able to see the bottom of the keel though).  Going this route will also be helpful in that I think I would like to spile the full hull as a challenge to myself (for my Pegasus, I only spiled planks up to the copper plating line.
 
Jason from Crown Timberyard is back up and running and has been very helpful in answering some of my questions. He sells both a dark walnut and mahogany.  I want the upper hull to be lighter in color than the lower hull, and I found a nice lighter cherry veneer that should do nicely.  I'm leaning towards using Jason's walnut over the mahogany as I think the colors will work better together.  Mahogany looks beautiful, but as a chocolate/orange/rich brown, I don't think that using cherry for the upper hull will work well.  Walnut and cherry though seem to complement each other nicely, at least what I've seen in other build logs.  Certainly welcome to any thoughts, ideas or suggestions!
 
Next, I'm thinking of working on the gun deck - planking, hatches, etc.  A nice respite before having to go back to planking the hull.

That hull is looking nice & smooth - should be a good base for the second planking. In my opinion,I think walnut would be good to use with the cherry rather than mahogany. People may think I`m nuts, but I really don`t care for mahogany that much. Also,I think that REAL walnut looks much better than most of the kit supplied "walnut". Either way,it`s your ship so do it to your liking!
 
Mark

Finally finished the first planking of the lower hull.  Ended up coming out really nicely I think - I might not have to use any filler at all, except maybe around the stern area with that turn up into the counter.  I still need to clean up a bit around the stern and bow, which I'll need to do by hand, but I used a palm sander outside today to sand the planking down.  Wow, does that make life much easier!  Was so quick to sand the hull, I still remember doing the Badger by hand and it taking forever.  
 
I'm now a big convert to bow and stern filler blocks, they really help!  A big thank you to Pete who suggested using them in his build notes.  One thing I started wondering is whether even if you're doing a POB kit, whether just adding filler blocks through the full area such that you don't even have to bother with a first planking would be quicker and easier than going through the first planking, sanding, filling, etc., and then adding the second (essentially, converting it to a solid hull).  Guess it depends how easy it is for the person to do filler blocks.
 
Some pictures of where I am:



One issue that has been bothering me is the fact that the kit provided different wood for the stem/rudder versus that for the keel.  The stem/rudder I believe is walnut, and the keel might be ramin.  The color difference between the two is too striking for my liking:

 
I was originally thinking of painting the lower hull white which would have made this a non-issue, but given how far I'm pushing on this build, I think I'm going to leave the hull natural.  I don't want to chance using a stain to even the colors out, because then I would have to use stain on the planking itself which leads to more chance of something looking out of place.  So, instead, I think I'm going to buy new wood for the stem, rudder, and lower hull planking.  I dropped the hull while planking it a while back and the stem snapped right off, so I think taking it off again should be ok.  The keel is a bit of a different story because I drilled the pedestal holes into it, and it's secured into the false keel by brass rod.  So, what I'll likely do is laminate the keel with thin walnut, and then maybe try darkening the very bottom a bit to avoid any oddities (people shouldn't really be able to see the bottom of the keel though).  Going this route will also be helpful in that I think I would like to spile the full hull as a challenge to myself (for my Pegasus, I only spiled planks up to the copper plating line.
 
Jason from Crown Timberyard is back up and running and has been very helpful in answering some of my questions. He sells both a dark walnut and mahogany.  I want the upper hull to be lighter in color than the lower hull, and I found a nice lighter cherry veneer that should do nicely.  I'm leaning towards using Jason's walnut over the mahogany as I think the colors will work better together.  Mahogany looks beautiful, but as a chocolate/orange/rich brown, I don't think that using cherry for the upper hull will work well.  Walnut and cherry though seem to complement each other nicely, at least what I've seen in other build logs.  Certainly welcome to any thoughts, ideas or suggestions!
 
Next, I'm thinking of working on the gun deck - planking, hatches, etc.  A nice respite before having to go back to planking the hull.