GLakie

So of course I finally put a little oil on the channels and once dried glued the deadeyes into the channel slots... and THEN I finally noticed that the small deadeye was on the wrong side!! So I had to remove #2 and #4 and switch them. After much angst and a few curse words, I got it done - I think it actually looks a little better....
 
 
 
 
One funny story. I was putting the aforementioned cleat onto the boat using a pair of tweezers, and ptewey! I squeezed a little too hard and it went flying.... somewhere.... It took me over a half hour to carve that little bugger so I wasn't about to start over. I looked *everywhere*, had to clean off the bench, went through all the stuff around my bench, couldn't find  it, and finally gave up. Only to notice it was sitting right on the deck the whole time. At least I cleaned up a bit - see before/after pics.
 

 
And I figured out the image issue! Drag-n-drop works! (sort of... just thumbnails, not the full-size pic.)

I worked on the lifeboat some more, cleaned it up to the point where I'm comfortable with it. Not entirely, but enough so to move on. In thinking about how the boat would be installed on the ship, it bothered me that they wanted the lashing tied to the loops on the boat's platform. I thought it would be more appropriate for the rope to be lashed to a cleat, so I attempted to make a cleat for this purpose. The images show the progress:
 
(btw I still can't figure out how to 'insert' images in my typing area. cut/paste doesn't work, the 'image' button doesn't work, I don't see other options.)
 
How are coils made? I thought it would be cool to coil the rest of the rope, but not sure where to begin with that. and the rope is a bit finicky... maybe make the coil beforehand, and then lash?

Hi Dave, Nice work on the hull , she is looking great 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Nice work John, She's looking fantastic , beautifully done
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Magic of scratch ... nothing without ... dark side force is strong with you ... think there is no help for you ... and no chance to make bad model

Thanks for the suggestions,  but there is a further snag...........the part in question is broken     don't know how.........I was just wiping the roof off with thinner on a rag.   looks like I'll be doing some scratch building,  perhaps 

Hi Dennis
 
It goes without saying that your Titanic's looking damn fine, however, I never really gave it much thought (why, I don't know), but your close-up photography is just brilliant! It's a joy to squizz at your photos.
 
That must be another one of your multiple strengths?
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Or PN: 4611a201. 3000grit
Sam

Try McMaster-car for that. search for polishing paper. They have it down to 0.1 microns (2500grit) PN: 8258a11
Sam

Don't know if it would help, Popeye, but I've had success removing scratches from acetate type windows using very fine (1500 or 3000) grit sandpaper, wet.  Not easy to find.

thanks John.......I was stuck for a word as to what they were called.   apparently some manufacturers don't even know that. 
 
thank you for your kind comments and likes...you all are so kind with my clumsy attempt at a plastic model.  if anyone hasn't clicked on the link to see Doris's build of the Academy Titanic,  I strongly suggest that you do.   there may be a language barrier,  but the pictures speak completely for themselves.  she has the kit with the photo etch and wooden deck and her process and work on this model is exquisite.   it's very hard to see all the detail from the picture she posted of her.  bravo Doris.........I was speechless with the level of modeling you put into this build..........absolutely stunning!   
 
I did a few bits on her yesterday .........not a whole lot.   the two decks are cemented together now,  and I attempted to do the window detail on the forward skylight / hold......it covers a domed skylight.   I must say........I couldn't have botched it up,  in any finer fashion.  to make matters worse,  I think I scratched the window aspect in the process of trying to remove the tape I had cut,  in the effort to mask it.  so it's off to removing the paint and starting over.......I just hope I didn't scratch the 'glass to badly.   to me,  aside from the chrome,  this is probably the second bad point about this kit...molding parts in clear plastic.
    if they were to do it,  I would have imagined that some,  if not all of the windows,  would have had clear glass inserts..........odd that the skylights would be the only place where clear 'glass' would be seen,  considering how many windows are on this model.   I hope to post some sort of an update,  since this is the last day of my vacation.   back to the grind,  I suppose...............but,  I'll be plotting my next vacation.   I still have enough time accumulated for 1 more 

Thank you Nenad, Mark, and Patrick.
I can report that, using the masking tape technique, the starboard side planking is moving along much better. Mostly because every one of the curved bow planks only required a single fitting. Each one has been absolutely perfect.
I'm quite sure I'm not the first modeler to use the technique. It's simply the first time I've used it, and thought I would share it for all who have not tried it.

"she drew 17 feet with the lowest gun port sitting 4 feet out of the water." Wow, wouldnt that put the lee side gunports at least partially under water in a strong wind? How well did port lids actually seal?
 
Lack of experience makes me hold my toungue on the planking "upgrade" but she looks better and better each time I stop by.
 
Sam

Brian,
 
Really beautiful work....and thanks for taking the time to document your process for stropping the single blocks (very clean work)     

Shaping up quite nicely Dennis.  

Beautiful. Great work Brian

Well done, Sal! It's really looking good!
 
Thomas

That's some very nice needle-work Jay!  

Hi Dave
 
That's a really smart technique you're using there. A little bit of ingenuity has really paid off, big time, because those planks look really spiffy.
 
Nice job!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Clare,
Thanks for inspiring me to get back to work on Higaki Kaisen.
 
Bob R.

A bold move Mark and certainly worth the effort. I always fear such redo's but I know if I don't it wil bother me for years to come.
 
Remco

Shaping up quite nicely Dennis.  

Actually George, this was not needle-work but glue that I used. 
My fingers are just not good enough to do the stitching, so I resorted to using Titebond.
The picture below shows the back side with the glue just on the machine stitched ends.

Having done that, I now know that the hammock is too long (good for a guy 6'4", but not your typical sailor).
So, the next series I'll try will be with an edged strip of fabric that is narrower. 
Again, however, the overall length has to fit the beams

When I was making sails, someone asked what fabric I was using. 
All I remember is that I went to Joanne's shop and picked out the lightest and most uniform white cloth I could find. No ID that I remember. But the close-up below shows that it is a square weave with a thread count of 84 x 84 per inch. 
Maybe that might help others.

After doing the other end and cutting the hammock to a quarter inch width, I still need to 'stabilize' the edges.

Thanks much for the link Ken!