RichardG

I hope everything goes well with your move.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing this build - although my parents were not particularly interested in navel history (they were both in the RAF during WWII), this ship had a place in their hearts and some of that rubbed off on me.
 
All the best,
Richard

Sooooo…gun port doors. Chuck’s practicum has about 2 sentences on mounting these suckers. In short, I’ve been struggling on how to Mount them so they don’t look askew or show the hole you need to drill into the side of the ship to mount them. 
 
Also, the idea of trying to put those tiny 1.4mm hinges on AFTER I’ve mounted them terrifies me. 
 
I opted for putting on the tiny hinges first. Then made a faux window sill with a foam board to see where best to drill the holes and ensure they look clean. Theoretically, this means once I’ve got them drilled and prefit, I can store them until I need to mount them.  I see myself ripping these off by accident multiple times in the future. 
 
Hey…in theory this should work. Looks ok with the practice piece.  🙏🏼
 
Gratuitous pics below. 
 

 

 

 

Was spending time organizing and doing odd little chores on my USS Syren parts and decided to make the graphics to prepare the flags when I get to that point.  My intention is to prepare them using washi paper as I did on my last build.  So, I looked up the flags online and prepared the flag and jackstaff graphics.  I thought the graphics and sizes were pretty close to those in the kit, and was happy to move on and consider this little chore complete.  But I noticed a major difference between my naval jack and the Shipways kit supplied naval jack.  See the graphic below.  The main country flag and reverse images are an exact match.  Slight color differences but nothing else.  The naval jack provided in the MS Kit is completely reversed from the gif I prepared.  Considering that I got the graphic for both the country flag and naval jack from Wiki, I'm wondering which is correct.  
 
I could you some help here...is the MS kit provided naval jack incorrect or is there some mistake I am making?

 

Actually no. I the jaws are reversible as in almost any chuck like that. When the steps are facing inside, you can work on larger and flat items. 
 
Other chucks may be delivered with two sets of jaws instead.
 
And: keep towels away from revolving chucks, this could result in a serious desaster otherwise.
 
Also: never work with gloves and loose clothing on a lathe (or mill).

Oh, I don't think I ever showed the harpy box label. My step son, who works in marketing, asked if he could have a go, so most of this is him, a little more minimalistic than normal...

You might want to take a look at brush plating.  Seems to be the simplest method to do small parts.  Caswell is the most common one but there are other sellers out there.
https://caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/brush-plating-products.html

Mark,
 
Some of them are available in 1:64. E.g. https://thenrgstore.org/collections/model-figurines/products/seaman-5 and https://thenrgstore.org/collections/model-figurines/products/american-officer-pose-2
 

Thanks Toni. I may order one to help me with a sense of scale.

Ok…been so long, I can’t remember what the heck I was doing on the ship before I packed her up to move. So decided to attack the gun port hatches. 
 
Decided to try to make the little rings with a simple hook hanger. Made a little jig to make the hooks, and a ton of rings using annealed wire. 
 
Effect isn’t that bad…still have to put on the metal straps and hinges. Not certain if I’ll hang them…figuring I’ll get them all setup and the holes drilled then put them on later with the quarter galleries. (I don’t trust myself not to knock the bloody things off when I’m fiddling with the chain plates/etc.)
 
Pics below…cheapie 3 min bending jig for bending the wire to form the ring hooks. 😎
 
 



Moving on…
 

Hello. I just found this site while doing some boat research. I am at a dead-end and need to find some leads.
I grew up in Philadelphia, PA and moved to Ohio (on the Ohio river) for high school, I have lived on the banks of the Mississippi river, Kanawha river, and Lake Erie/Grand River.
I am a biochemistry professor, woodworker and carver, 3D printer fanatic and lover/builder of boats.
When I was in graduate school 20 years ago, I was anxious, so I built a small sailboat in my garage. It was a fun project. I didn't (and still don't) know much about sailing. I knew I wanted to build boats.
I then moved to a place that I didn't have as much space, so I wanted to get into model boats. I went to hobby shops, trying to find a reasonable Sternwheeler model (Artesania Latina has the King of the Mississippi that looks great), but they were all expensive. In the back of one shop, under some other models was a kit for a 1:65 Santa Maria (La Gallega) model kit. It was collecting dust and said, "As-is $50. Parts missing" Well, not to be too personal, I couldn't even afford that. So I asked the owner what pieces were missing. He looked through it and couldn't tell me, so he sold it to me for $20. Turns out all of the precut/laser cut pieces were gone. This included the bulkhead pieces (its a plank on bulkhead model) and only had materials for sub-planking, planking, masts, rigging, etc. This meant that I got the chance to use my woodworking skills to build the parts of the boat that would be the most important to the shape and form of the whole thing! It took me many years, but I finished and then rigged the Santa Maria. I was so proud of the 6 years of work. (I have a few of the pictures attached). I don't know much about sailing/rigging, so I just used the directions from the kit.
After that, I wanted to add her sister ships, La Nina and La Pinta. I wanted to make them from scratch (it is cheaper, so far). I had to wait until I could find the materials. I got a package in the mail that was wrapped in multiple sheets of 5-layer plywood! This was my moment. Ply that thin is very expensive if purchased from a hobby store. There was enough there for false decks. Also, I had enough to glue it in layers to make: (plank-on-bulkhead) ribs, false keel, even some of the first layer of planking (the rest I had leftover from La Gallega). I then actually purchased grain-matched wood veneers from Woodcraft (the corporate HQ is in our town, which was convenient for deals) which had them on clearance (my wife would have otherwise not allowed that purchase). I was able to plank the hull and decks of both boats! I need some guidance on how to cut planks more uniformly. Currently, I have to start making pieces of the boat that are thicker and require thicker stock to make. I am stuck, do I glue a bunch of veneer wood together (which I am currently, agonizingly, doing), or use a saw and gently cut aged, local wood that I have from the backyard (it has dried for some years) and plane/sand it down to the thickness I need?
I have attached pictures of those boats, I don't have any with them with final hull planking, but they look pretty good (for my novice eye) with walnut on the hull and cherry on the deck. I will post those in projects, when I find more pictures.
I have since started doing research into boats built in my area (Marietta, Ohio). Our town was a boat-building community starting in the early 1800's till ~1900(with a few hiccups). I really wanted to make a scratch-built Sternwheeler, but I found out Boat builders here made seagoing-wooden boats! I decided I wanted to make one of those next. I started researching the 1800 -St. Clair (a 110 ton Brig) built in Marietta Ohio (the first seaboat built on the Ohio river). I asked at the Martime museum (Campus Martius/Ohio River Museum). They gave me a little info. And I have been researching at Marietta College. They have an extensive boat-building collection. I am trying to generate a schematic for the vessel, but there are only accounts of the boat's: materials, beam, tonnage, etc. It was build by J.Devol from Connecticut (moved his family to Marietta in the 1790's). I will post in the research section to see if anyone knows about the styling of his ship hulls, pre-1800.
I am big into woodcarving and I hope to carve hulls in the future. I am still a boatbuilding novice and am here to learn about all of it. I wish I had learned of this community 10 years ago, but I am glad to be here and hope I can learn more and improve my models.
Thanks for the time reading my opening post.
Atomj

Hi
 
I've also had this issue and changing the belt made no difference either.  I contacted Jim who advised me to place a couple of washers behind the tensioning spring.  It's a little fiddly to do but it works great and is a permanent repair.  It just pushes the motor back that little further which is what is required.
 
Mark

Hello Everyone,
 
It's been a while since I last posted. Ropes of scale has been keeping me busy, so busy in fact I had to quit my day job. Thank you guys/gals for all of your support!
 
I've finally added sample cards to the website after years of people asking at least once a month. This product has gone through a few iterations over the past year or two. These are simple, affordable, and hopefully useful.   
 
Sold separately or together.
Size Card contains every size of polyester rope sold from 0.25mm - 1.8mm. 
Color Card has one length of each color sold from the Ropes of Scale lineup.
 
https://ropesofscale.com/products/sample-cards
 

 

Paddlewheels like that strike me as an ideal candidate for 3D printing. Then again I have 3D printing on the brain now. 🤪

Why thank you Brother....
 
Yeah it's been a long road but I'm getting there.... the transfer to software is daunting at first but quickly learned as you try new things, then it becomes an experience of learning the fine points of the tool and how to use them...
Believe it or not most models are designed exactly this way today, you collect as many images as you can and hopefully some documentation as well to go along with the pics, then you start drawing ibn 1/1 scale... Once you get to the end of the design process, a scale is decided upon then you revise the model for production in the scale you chose... The whole process can take well over a year from start to finish and that is with experienced researchers, designers and manufacturing people involved...
 
A lot goes into producing a workable model.... Not surprised at all that MFH does some of it this way.......
 
Today I put her rear wheels on, had to tweak the Differential carrier/Rear Axle and brakes to make them work with the Wheels but it's all good... will probably have to do  more tweaking eventually...
 
Here are the pics....
Left side,

Front...

Rear...

And 3D...

Now it's beginning to look like something....
 
EG

I was able to place an order this afternoon for a couple of accessories.

I was able to place an order this afternoon for a couple of accessories.

Isaiah, that's what I meant to say in one of these messages. I am aware of Vanguard's good design, but that can't be replicated in a home shop without some kind of ludicrously expensive and massive CNC machine. 
Fun fact: paper is, in fact, a 3-dimensional object. 

If this isn't the worst mock up you've ever seen, stop lying to yourself. 
My main goal in doing this was to determine whether any of the frames were too wide, and they aren't. My precise measurements earlier in the build paid off. Now, I just have to disassemble this thing without ripping the paper. 

Yeah…once I get back to Japan!  I’m all energized after Mannitowoc!!!

Thank you all for you help. This is very good information.
From where I sit, the future is not very bright for the Byrnes saw. Eventually, the community will benefit if some knowledgeable (and this certainly leaves me out) person or group compiles and posts a list of the sizes of all the available replacement screws, belts and other parts, and where they can be purchased. I would not be surprised if I am one of the few people asking these sorts of questions now, but I suspect there will be more in the future. 

Me too.

Me too.

Me too.

Although I would definitely recommend buying the Accessory Pack (or 2) from Byrnes, the insert screws are #2-56 1/4" and available from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RC5LJC).

Although I would definitely recommend buying the Accessory Pack (or 2) from Byrnes, the insert screws are #2-56 1/4" and available from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RC5LJC).

Although I would definitely recommend buying the Accessory Pack (or 2) from Byrnes, the insert screws are #2-56 1/4" and available from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RC5LJC).