mrcc

Looks great!

Just a final posting referencing how I did this step of the build. Sorry if the pictures seems obvious but on all the build logs out there, there just was not much pictorial information out there.

Not as much fiddly work as I thought... Sanded back the wood portion in joint B and C in the referenced picture in the preceding post and achieved a decent fit. In the end I put a little filler piece in joint A to complete the piece. The Mamoli instructions reference gluing the stem post at the bow at this time but I will glue the lion figurehead in first in the slot and glue to the keel and bow afterwards.

Thanks Patrick for the information… Looks like this builder did not get it set further down to the way my understanding it should be… I now know exactly what I need to do and will tackle that issue tomorrow should I have time. Thanks for your reply,

Have a challenge here... Trying to get this fit perfect prior to gluing the bow stem post to the bow otherwise it will be very difficult later. My vintage kit was missing one item when I received it... it was the bow figurehead - a fairly important item in a finished model. I was so lucky my brother was vacationing in Prague last year and was able to get Daniel Dusek of Dusek Models, who now carries the license of Mamoli, to forward to him/me a new lion figurehead with minimal cost. Obviously from the picture posted that there is not a great fit... is it the vintage stem post or is the problem with the newer casting working with a vintage piece? I looked at lots of build logs and only in a couple did they comment about the ill fitting of the ornament... one of which had a solution listed in the log. I know I have to drop the figurehead further into the slot in order to allow the bowsprit (once placed at its correct angle) to clear the head/ornament. Solution: Cut back the wood portion of the B joint and the question is should I further open the C joint by filing back the wood portion or perhaps more difficult is opening the cast ornament (a slit the width of the wooden stem) between the outstretched legs at the bottom, and then sliding the ornament down until the two portion are aligned and tight at Joint A? The simplest solution of just filling the A joint would not work as it needs the clearance above for the bowsprit to be added at a later stage of the build... thus I need to make sure the ornament slides down further into the slot.

Hey Ronald, Amazing workmanship!

Had to cut back some of the side gallery planking profiles in order to accommodate the side gallery ornamentation and then I focused on some of the stern decorations... she is surely starting to look pretty! Lots of reading ahead, looking at other peoples build logs on MSW and some dutch forums. A person always has to pay attention to the fittings, the corners of the fittings, as future fittings of these ornaments are sometimes laid on top of each other. Luckily these pot metal ornaments are easy to bend and mold with reason into the spaces they are required to go into. The color scheme I used is of course personal but I am always looking at historical accuracy.

More details to add with regards to deck railing details...

Very poor service indeed... I had some problems with Cornwall Model Boats as well with regards to unanswered emails on a special order of a part. They are both hit and miss.

My advice is to keep pestering John at Jotika… He will eventually get back to you but it often takes a while.

Just getting the little details done at the current stage of the build, roughly to the Mamoli build order as outlined in their instruction sheets. Tonight I will tackle the deck railings.

Hey zappto… so glad you are following my build log. Yes, going to paint the hull. PS I am always referencing your build log and always have my iPad tab open to your build for quick references. Thanks,

More progress this weekend... Finished nailing the copper nails into the strakes. Created a little template and ran it along the strake with a quick touch with my archimedes pin drill and then came back to fully open the hole for the pin. Quick dab of yellow PVA glue and pushed it in in large sections at a time.

Thanks Ronald… The stain I used is about 23-24 years old, used it for a furniture project for my children’s bedroom when they were just babies. Luckily I didn’t throw it out. I opened the can up and stirred it for about 20 seconds and it mixed up perfectly. Perfect stain color for my Friesland!

The cap railings are 2x4mm but at the curved profiles, found it absolutely impossible to soak and heat bend the planks. I ended up bending a couple of 1x5mm planks and then once I got the correct curved profile, was able to laminate the two 1x5s to get closer to the rest of the spec'd 2x4mm railing. Sanded them back a bit, sanded a bit of the heat scorch marks and very happy with the results. Thanks to everyone for checking out my build log!

Lots of work getting the upper deck gun ports at the correct heights from the deck, relative to each other and from side to side, also making sure to get a flat run for when the deck railing caps go on. Also getting the correct profiles for the deck railings, with the specific challenge at the points of curved profiles, especially matching to the opposite side. Took lots of measurements from the plan, transferring, changing, and remeasuring, having to add and sand back in some cases from the initial hull planking that I did. Luckily the gun ports were initially located correctly from side to side to each other from my measurements from an earlier stage of the build when first rough cutting them out. Once satisfied, I started the upper side wall planking with the stained planks.

Lots of work since my last posting... Planked the inner bulwarks and began painting them red ocre. Also worked on the rubbing strakes as well as the main deck railing with the bends achieved with a heated plank bending tool. Happy with the result but need to do a bit of black touchups.

Thanks for sharing your build log... Excellent result!

Reached a milestone in that the hull planking is complete. I bought some walnut filler and will at a later time fill some of the wider spaces between some of the planks at the bow but overall happy with how the planking turned out. Also started to transfer the measurements from the plans to the hull, preparing the upper profiles, for gunports on the upper decks.

Cleaned up the sternpost to allow for the vertical planking. Used heat to release the wood glue from the ends

Much easier that I thought... marked the forward edge of the sternpost line, scored a line with a blade, heated up the plank portion in order to release from the glue, and the plank end lifted up effortlessly.

Thanks Patrick... Yes, I have seen this build log on the Dutch forum. Thanks for sharing...

Still some small plank pieces to lay at the bow and along the keel, but almost done! Little diversion though with the castings at the stern; applied the metal primer and getting ready to paint... I am very unsure of the painting scheme at the stern as all sorts of different options on Google images. My preference at the moment may not be historically accurate??? PS These casting are probably 40 years old and given the molds were relatively "young" at the time of casting, I have to say the primed stern decorations look very good to me.

Wonderful build log Clare… I love how the Mamoli kits build out. Thanks for sharing!

I know… strange!