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mtdoramike

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Everything posted by mtdoramike

  1. mtdoramike
    Thanks for the tip Glenn, I'm going to get me some of it and try it out.
  2. mtdoramike
    It's bondo filler. I lay down a coat of resin on the hull before I lay down the cloth to insure that it is "wetted" properly. This is after I smooth and fare out the hull. I then sand the hull with 80 grit sand paper to give the hull a bit of tooth for the cloth and resin. Then I sand between each coat with 180 grit sand paper and normally apply three coats of resin. When finished you could almost drop this hull off a two story building.
  3. mtdoramike
    Popeye, I tried Ages of Sail and although they do carry the fittings kit for the Kap, they were out and had been for some time and not sure when they would get any in. This model really needs to be converted to R/C operation, I saw one in action some years ago and it looked magnificent puttering around a local lake. I will PM you, I would love to see the blog.
  4. mtdoramike
    Yeah, I found them at Model Expo for another $100.00. But after spending $200.00 on these after market fittings package, I will leave that up to the new owner whether or not they want to up grade. But it wouldn't be financially feasable for me to do it because I'm basically a flipper and I have to look at the bottom line as to what I can get for the finished product.
  5. mtdoramike
    She has been glassed up with the first of many coats of resin. This is what the old girl actually looks like under all that soon to be rouge, lip stick and eye liner and all the rest of that war paint to really purdify her up. I love this stage of the build because it's like what the hell have I done to such a nice hull.
  6. mtdoramike
    Fiber glass cloth and epoxy resin. This is not a requirement for static, BUT if you are building the model primarily from balsa, you will need to re-enforce the wood due to the softness of balsa. You could just give the balsa a couple of coats of epoxy resin, but you will still be able to dent the wood with your finger nail quite easily. Why is carbon fiber or other woods even mentioned in this thread, the op asked about wood hardening. He's talking about a model, I think carbon fiber is a tad over kill.
  7. mtdoramike
    Your best answer would be to fiberglass the surface with cloth and resin. You will get a suitable result. Balsa is fine to use for hulls and decks where weight is a concern. I have built boats models primarily out of balsa more then a few times that are for R/C use, but I always use fiberglass cloth and resin, usually a 2oz cloth or even a 4oz cloth depending on strength needed. I have also skim coated hulls with auto body bondo, sanding smooth to give the balsa extra rigidity before glassing.
  8. mtdoramike
    I will add here that you will have to join that site if you want access to any of the items for sale.
  9. mtdoramike
    Color me shocked! I received the Billings Fittings package for the Nordkap this afternoon, that was roughly a week to receive it from England. Here is what $200.00 worth of boat fittings looks like. But if it saves me time, it saves me money because to me, time is money.
  10. mtdoramike
    Alright Andrew, way to go brother. Hopefully you will get the honor of bringing the Diana to all of her glory and on the plus side, David can visit the Diana when you get her finished since you both live relatively close. The HMS Victory that I built about 5 years ago and donated to my local Library, was more for me than the library because I get to visit the Vic when ever I want without having to find a place to display it. I visit the Vic quite often with the excuse of making sure there is no lines or glue that came loose that I will need to fix.
  11. mtdoramike
    That would be very generous of you David. I'm sure someone would be happy to accept it and hopefully finish it. She is a fantastic model and deserves to be finished for others to enjoy. I hope your recovery goes well and hopefully someone near you will step up.
  12. mtdoramike
    Yeah more than a few times hahahaha.
  13. mtdoramike
    I was able to remove the deck from midship to bow, which allowed access to the hull interior for sealing. It's hardly noticeable once the deck is replaced. But I intend to plank the deck anyway so no harm done.
  14. mtdoramike
    This is turning out to be a magnificent build!
  15. mtdoramike
    This has been one of my all time favorite models. Your doing a fantastic job on the Ben.
  16. mtdoramike
    One of the first things I will have to do on the Nordkap is surgically remove the decking from midship to the stem post in order to seal the interior of the hull, which the previous builder didn't do. He may have been shooting for a static display versus R/C operation, but I'm going full R/C.
  17. mtdoramike
    I know what you mean about going hog wild and pig crazy when it comes to hobbies, I had the monkey on my back too. I'll bet it stuck a bit to sell off the byrns tools. I hate to see unfinished models like the Bluenose. I built a few of them over the years and the Canadians go crazy for them. I could have sold everyone I could have built back in the day. It looks like you did a great job on it. Good luck on the sale.
  18. mtdoramike
    I agree Keith, it's like two steps behind me and catching up fast.
  19. mtdoramike
    I agree, don't give up the ghost, try it. I have nere seen a truely bad build on RCG. There are too many resources here for that to happen as long as you follow their advice. There are only two things that can't be fixed on a ship model and that is a twisted or warpped keel. I have built better than 100 models over the years and still at times, I will build a model with the intentions of building it in all natural wood only to get half way through with it and realize the planking job wasn't one of my best pieces of work for what ever reason. When this happens, no problem, I just bring out the putty and paint and when someone see's it and comments about how they love the painted finish, I reply that is what I was shooting for the whole time. No one knows but me that it was a backup and punt situation. My point here is, Modeling is supposed to be fun, and relaxing and challenging, not stressful.
  20. mtdoramike
    I checked every where and the only place that had the Nordkap fittings package was Cornwall models in England. I was able to get the only fitting kit they had although having to bite the bullit for $192.00 minus the currency conversion rate. But it is what it is. Billings has some on order, but with the supply chain going the way it is, they have no idea when they will get them.
  21. mtdoramike
    Thanks for the link Keith, this may be an option for some of the parts.
  22. mtdoramike
    It appears all of the super structures have been built. The hull requires some light sanding and then it should be ready to lay fiberglass cloth to seal it. Now for the not so good news. This is an older Billings kit and for anyone who doesn';t know, older Billings kit did nor does include the fittings packages, which were sold separately. This kit did not include the fittings package. Now, finding a fittings package is like finding hens teeth, nothing on Ebay, which is my go to source for hard to finds things. Ages Of Sail, offers the fittings package, but are out of stock. So this leaves me with a few options which are overseas one of which is Cornwall models. The cost of the fittinds package alone makes you say your kidding at $174.00 that ain't shipped folks and with the supply chain, getting it here might be the bigger issue of the two. To give you an example, if I were to buy the fittings separately, the two brass anchor trawling line winches are $100.00 for the two.
  23. mtdoramike
    OK, works for me, I was considering it more of a finishing log. Thanks.
  24. mtdoramike
  25. mtdoramike
    Well if this is your first wooden sdhip build, congrats beause your work is superb.

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