mtdoramike
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Everything posted by mtdoramike
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It was a built 1930's Mahogany Chris Craft R/C boat model. It was the latest one that I built and shipped. It was 36" in length. I'm curious to see what the shipping will be for the Dumas Typhoon I'm currently building. The same guy that bought this one also has shown interest in the Typhoon, which is like 41 inches in length.
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Oh yes it does! If I ship an item from Florida to California, the cost of shipping almost doubles from west of the mason Dixon line or west of Texas. Example: I shipped a boat model from Florida To New York USPS (which was by far the cheapest than with UPS or FEDEX), the cost was $55.00 with $475.00 insurance, but had I shipped the same model to California, the cost would have been over $125.00, believe me, I checked and lost a sale due to the cost of the shipping, Arizona was $100.00 and that buyer backed out as well.
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I know my work area is a bit messy, and I try not to clean it until after I finish a build because usually when I do clean up my work table BEFORE I finish what ever it is I'm building, I end up throwing away something that I find that I need it. For instance: I cleaned up my table a bit a few weeks ago after my wife complained that it was quite messy, well wouldn't you know that I threw away one of the formers that Dumas supplied to make the built up stem and stern post. 😪 But no big deal, I will either make a new former or better yet, I was thinking of cutting out the stern and stem posts from some scrap black walnut that I have laying around, which will eliminate the need for the build up of strips of wood.
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I got a few more planks done on the side. This is an odd way to plank, I usually start at the top and work my way to the keel, but the instructions suggest starting at the bottom and work my way up.
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The Doctor who won the Hospital Gala auction came last night and picked up the Montanes ship model. I shed a tear while watching as they drove away on it's way to Orlando. Each of the models that I build hold a special place in my heart. I just hope that he and everyone who see's it enjoys it as much as I have because it was an awesome model that I felt honored to build. My farewell to an old friend hahahaha and closure to a lot of fun, at times frustrating and really rewarding journey.
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Yes, you don't need to completely fill the gap, but with the amount of space between those frames would make it more difficult to plank.
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Beautiful job on the deck and work so far, but I would suggest adding some blocks of wood in-between the hull framing to expand the frame edge area to help give the planking a smoother appearance when applied and will make planking a lot easier. mike
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Thanks Greg, I was thinking it seemed to be a might shy on the wood pictured.
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are the frames or ribs pre-cut or do you have to make them yourself?
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Well, the Waterman Hospital Fund raising Gala was held last night and the winning bidder of the Montane's ship model will be making arrangements to come and pick up the ship model. I don't know what the model went for at auction, I just hope the hospital got a few bucks out of it to help out.
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The top deck is all planked and covered with the sub-planking. Modifications of the top hatch for the rudder access are finished. Now is will be easier to install the rudder arm and have the ability to adjust it when necessary.
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Speaking of unique and canoes, a friend of mine had a Gheenoe, which was nothing more than a canoe with the stern chopped off. I always wanted one because they were so unique. Well, after my friend got his Gheenoe, he took me out fishing and as soon as we left the dock, I started getting wet from the water splashing as the nose of the Gheenoe hit the waves. I was sitting in the front. By the end of the fishing trip, I was soaked and quickly realized that even though something is unique and looks interesting, doesn't mean that its a good thing. I never owned a Gheenoe and lost all interest in them after that outing.
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Although I'm building this kit (Typhoon) I do not like this boat. I don't like the shape of it at all. I can't stand a boat where you can't tell whether it's going or coming. If I were building this boat for me to keep or strictly for myself, I would have made some major structural changes like bobbing off the back and squaring it off. Now don't get me wrong, the quality is right up there with the Dumas Chris Crafts, but for personal taste, this boat just doesn't do it for me. Out of all the models I have built over the years, this is one of the few that I can say I dislike, but even though I'm not fond of it, I will build it as close to the original as possible with the exception of the rudder access modification.
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I have the top cockpit skins glued in place. There was a fair bit of trimming needed to be done in order to get the cockpit skins to lay between or inside of the spruce side rails. Also, when it came to making the rear hatch for the rudder access top, the hatch sides have to be angled slightly to match the side spruce rails. In order to match angle, I attached to spruce side strips to the thin plywood before forming it to match the contour of the top.
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I finished making the cover for the motor hatch as well as making a cover for the stern area to allow access to the rudder rather than the bottom of the hull, which is what Dumas suggests.
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I have the drive train all set up and ready for installation, when I get around to putting it in, but I aint at that stage quite yet.
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A local Library would be a wonderful place to donate the books to, I often go to my local library to look for ship modeling or books based on real wooden ships for research purposes. There usually isn't a lot, but it's fun looking anyway.
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Happy New Year to you and family as well, yep I have been cat scratch busy the last week or so, but I try to spend at least an hour a day on which ever build I'm doing at the time. Now sometimes I will spend the whole hour just looking at the build and trying to decide if I want to build a certain area like suggested by the instructions or do I want to modify or change it LOL.
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I have the first layer of planking done on the hull with just a bit of cleaning up to do on her. Dumas provides a couple of templates to use to cut the bow and stern blocks from some hard wood or at the very least hard balsa for the nose and rear of the boat. Once glue dries, you have to sand down the blocks to form the contour of the hull.
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I started the first layer of planking with the balsa strips. I did what I usually do to most kits and that is to take scrap pieces of wood and beef up the frames, which are 1/8" plywood in order to make them 1/4" which gives me a wider surface to lay the planking as well as more of a gluing surface.
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Thanks James.
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I'm wanting to know what is the best glue for plastic model boats and ships especially those that are built for Radio Control/water use? Anyone have any ideas, I remember the old Testers and Tamiya model airplane glues that I assume were outlawed because of glue sniffers😜
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Cornwall is top notch to do business with, great prices and relatively quick shipping considering it's outside of the US. Lou, you are top notch as well.
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