Jack12477

Those 'boys' in the back look very surprised  at your efforts  
 
Nice looking models

Ok, grappling hook installed. Model is now complete and taking its place with the rest of the fleet.
 

 
 
Getting a little crowded !

Ok, grappling hook installed. Model is now complete and taking its place with the rest of the fleet.
 

 
 
Getting a little crowded !

Rich, Thanks ! Guess I scrolled right by it when I was searching you log. Easy idea !

Rich, Thanks ! Guess I scrolled right by it when I was searching you log. Easy idea !

Well almost complete !  Have to get some primer and black paint for the grappling hook - paint it and install it and I think I am done.
 

Rich, I'm looking for ideas for jigs to hold my yards, can you post a picture of yours here?

Haven't really made enough progress for a proper update but there's something important I need to point out ... and now is the time.
 
The bulkhead beakhead doors were made the usual way by laminating 3 sections together, thinning them down, applying the finish and hardware.  They required only minor adjustments to fit the openings properly.  The two outermost doors will be covered by the roundhouses down the road.
 

 
Next, we fabricated the bowsprit step out of 3/16 and 1/4" strips.  After painting, it was securely pinned to the deck:
 

 
OK, here's what I wanted to discuss.  The bowsprit hole in the beakhead is quite a bit undersized for the bowsprit.  The bowsprit will be tapered but the hole still needs to be enlarged.  With the stem already in place, getting the proper angle and size on that hole is somewhat problematic.  Also, the next steps will include installing additional deck fittings as well as forecastle deck beams which will largely cover the bowsprit step.  I could visualize painting myself into a corner and being unable to properly fit the bowsprit 6 months from now.  So I fabricated and aligned this NOW and I'd strongly suggest you do something similar.  If you check Rusty's great Confed log you'll see that he left off the upper part of the stem (that which holds the figurehead) at this point ----that would give you room to work.  But I didn't think that far ahead.
 
I don't like breaking out my dad's old Craftsman 1/2" drill for work on a 1:64 ship model.  So I slowly enlarged the hole using slightly tapered sticks (old paint brush handles) wrapped in sandpaper.  Yes, it's just this side of Neanderthal (and slow) but it works..... and nothing got destroyed in the process.  Here's what we have:
 

 

 
The bowsprit has a tenon cut in to sit nicely in the step.  That will need to be painted red just prior to final installation.
 
Didn't mean to bore anyone with this as I'm sure you all know it's good to think ahead.  But now my conscience is clear.
 
 
 

Rich, I'm looking for ideas for jigs to hold my yards, can you post a picture of yours here?

My mizzen sail is partially rigged. I "billowed" the sail to look like a moderate breeze is blowing. I do not want limp hanging sails.
 
At this rate it will take me ten more weeks of rigging to get all sails on.

Added the Main Topmast Staysail. This was the last sail. Been studying another Scottish Maid build while I've been working on mine. They had some extra rigging that my kit didn't instruct & I borrowed some of it & added it to mine too. 
 
Made an adjustment to the base. The sides were straight. I filed & sanded a little out to add some shape to it. I think it looks better now.
 
 
 

Some other miniature painting work: The crew
 
Decided ultimately I want to show her with some crew members onboard. Got quite a few gun crew, midshipman, powder monkeys to ultimately paint but for now, just had a go at some of the officers I have.

Well almost complete !  Have to get some primer and black paint for the grappling hook - paint it and install it and I think I am done.
 

Augie, Thomas and Randy, thank you for all the nice comments!
 
● Upper Deck Planking: The strips I received vary by as much as .020 in thickness so I ran them through my new thickness sander until they were all 1/32" thick. This proved to be very helpful during the sanding process. I had to be very careful not to damage the area around the coamings and Capstan base. For this I used a "0" barrette escapement file which was able to get right up to these parts without damaging them. I'm not sure how important it is to have the deck planking be uniform in color. Does anyone have a comment about this?
 

Looks perfect I like the paint job you did on it.
David 

Well, finally making progress.  Mast, boom & gaff installed and rigged. Took apart a scrap piece of rail molding and used the posts as supports, used an old wood plague for the base, put a coat of MinWax English Chestnut stain on everything.  Mounted the boat temporarily for picture purposes. 
 
Now on to the deadeyes and shrouds.
 

Well almost complete !  Have to get some primer and black paint for the grappling hook - paint it and install it and I think I am done.
 

Well almost complete !  Have to get some primer and black paint for the grappling hook - paint it and install it and I think I am done.
 

The quarterdeck details, beams, carlings and  knees have been completed:
 

 
 
With that, we bid fare thee well to the stern and turn our attention to the long forgotten bow.
 
Before tearing into it, I've prepared the beams and knees to go under the forecastle deck.  These will be set as we install the bow details:
 

 

Nicely done.  Piet.

Using the compass to get the 3/32" width I trailed from the outside, creating the sanding line.

Using the caliper I am very close to the correct measurements, some extra sanding might be needed.

 
The connection of starboard and port cap rail at the stem is an area I am happy with.

 
So far I am satisfied with the out come.
Still there is a lot of wood fuzz I need to get rid off.
Basswood is not a friend of mine when it comes to sanding.
 
Painting is getting close.

Nicely done.  Piet.

As I mentioned a couple of posts back, when fitting the lower sills, it became apparent that there was a problem with the pre-cut gun ports and sweep ports.  On one side the lower sill had to be lowered a couple of mm, while on the other side it had to be raised.  Here is a close up of the lowered sills, illustrating the  resultant problem (ie gap in the inside face of the port). 
 

 
Having thought about this for a couple of days, decided that the solution was to file out the ports to the edge of the lower sill, and then install fillers/shims on each side.  Tools used for this job included the Proxxon Pen Sander, a file, and the good old sanding stick.  The latter proved to be the most useful for the larger gunport, while the file was the "weapon of choice" for the sweep ports. 
 

 
Here is how it looked after the first two frames were adjusted: 
 

 
 
Frame Four was problematic in that the fix was going to leave a particularly narrow piece of the original frame - just asking to be snapped off.  So before filing this frame out, I added a separate filler piece between the frames to give more “meat” to support the vulnerable area. The filler is on the right hand side of the frame in the centre of this picture. 
 

 
All frames have now been opened up.  Next task will be to add the fillets to the sides of the ports, and then install the top sills / filling lintels.  It looks like this fix will work.
 

 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper and came up with an update, just to let you know I haven't fallen of the planet.
 
All the frames are now glued onto the keel and that showed my first problem, not all the frames fitted the jig fully, a few were as much as 2mm in from the outside of the jig, this presented a problem when it came down to sanding the inside of the frames, they need to be tight so there is no rocking when sanding.
 
The problem was solved by using Spanions method which is to place elastic bands around each frame and fix to a point of your choosing, this holds the frames tight to the jig edge. I chose to drill the jig from the top and place round head pins in, the bands were then pulled tight around the pins, great,   until you don't pick the jig up by the sides, I now have nicely punctured finger tips.   
 
I glued the first 8 frames and when the glued had dried they were sanded down, I have one frame which is a little out of line and it was a case of either cut the Futtock Rider to fit or make up a new frame, I tried adjusting the Rider which worked well so that worked out ok. Once the first 8 frames were sanded I then fitted the final 4 frames and fared them down. There is a small rise in frames 9 to12 and they have to be sanded at a slightly different angle.
 
With the inside completed I turned my attention to the outside, first job was to mark the height, frames D1 TO 4 ( 9 frames ) are level and flat, frames 5 to 12 are sloped with frame 12 being the highest. There is still a fair bit of movement in the frames which needs to be reduced to virtually nothing, this was achieved by placing 2.5mm blocks between each frame at a point above the water line where the hull planking will cover them up, the tops of the frames were also blocked at this time, this also served to strengthen some of the weaker frames.
 
Next up was the Gunport Sills, Sweep Sills and Filling Lintels, more problems, these were down to my c--p joinery skills and not the drawing's. If I put the sills in place without any work they would end up looking like a mountain range, so measurements and levels were taken and out came the sanding sticks and files which were applied to the Port side. The Sills were the first to receive the treatment with new levels being made, most of the notches which had been pre-cut were sanded back, so with all the mistakes removed the Sills and Linings were added to the Gunports and Sweep Sills, The Filling Lintels were next to be attacked, as it happens they turned out to be quite easy to make and so in they went. A little more sanding and an acceptable finish was reached bearing in mind that this work will all be covered with planking. The Portside took 3 days to repair so I have the same to look forward to on the Starboard side.
 
Whilst waiting for glue to dry and the need to change tasks I made the following, Keelson, Mortar Pit Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ) and the Upper Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ). I also cut out on the scroll saw the Futtock and Floor riders, these are not finished yet because they will require fitting individually.
 
At this point I want to thank Grant for keeping me on the right track regarding the timber, I got a little confused with what timber to use and so consulted my mentor, things were explained and backsides kicked, thanks mate. At this point mate I decided to keep you on.     
 
I should imagine your about ready for some pics, if your not suicidal by now. 
 
Portside clamped up waiting for the glue to dry on the blocks

 
Just a few more clamps on the Starboard side.

 
This is Spanions method of holding the frames.

 
Profile of the frames prior to sanding down.

 
You can see the nature of my problem.

 
The finished Portside, bearing in mind it is to be planked over.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date. Next job is to finish the Starboard side, fit the Keelson and work on the Futtock and Floor riders.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Thanks to everyone for following this build, your input and kind words.  I really enjoyed i,t especially with all of you visiting.
 
This will be my last post for this build and will try to put her in the Gallery.
 
I still have a few months so I may continue fiddling with it some more, a little touchup here and there.
 
Here are a few pics i took this morning for the Gallery, I like to close this log with a few pics.  Come and visit me with the 019 and the VOC ship in the scratch build part.  And who knows - - - I may even start the Dutch botter or kotter in a lamp.
 

 

 

 
Cheers to all,