Jack12477

super riveting Job Bob,
 
I know and experienced the paint coming off (fingernail test) in the beginning as well ,  and to overcome this, I clean the metal thorrowly and carefully with acetone on a cotton cloth first and then apply a resin based paint without any primer underneath. The criteria will be if you mask a tape over the cured paint, and it does`nt come off, when peeling the tape away, then you`ve got it....
 
very nice work
 
Nils

riveting and weld seams may not be prominent detail,  but it would be considered texture.  thinking back to the early plastic model,  rivets and seam lines weren't even tooled into the molds.    they were bland......wood modeling is no different really.   even if they were to get flattened down,  they would still be seen.   in wood modeling,  we try to add in these textures to give them realism.........expanding the medium out of the  'wooden ship'  box.   looking very good so far 

Thanks to all oh you for your good and encouraging words.  I need to paint the bulwarks but I'm afraid to paint too soon because I know the foil does not take pain well.
 
Bob

As I said before, the hull was welded but the bulwarks were riveted.  I was going to show some welded seams on the hull but realized that at this scale the welds would not be seen.  On the other hand, thanks to Nils (Mirabell61), I am showing the rivets. 
 
Bob
 
You can see here how the cleats and Bollards are mounted.
 

 
The rest show the riveting of the bulwarks.  They and the hull will be painted black which was standard during WWII.
 

 

 

 

Ed you continue to raise the bar... or in this case lower it through the deck. Exquisite work on the whole windlass.
 
My only thought about the method of manufacture is seeing the drill chuck used for milling. 
I know that safety has been mentioned in the past and that you are careful in this regard, if the chuck holding the mill is mechanically locked to the spindle I would have no concern, however if it is held with a taper as many are then milling puts sideways pressure on the chuck and I have seen one come off. Ask me how I know this.
 
Michael

I get all my acrylic paints in Michael's Craft stores, store brands like Delta Ceramacoat or Americana. Also use some Liquitex.  For a "primer" I use artist's Gesso - all are water based.  I've used them for years with my woodcarvings and am now using them on my boats. I apply them with an artist brush, Michael's brands. Have not tried them in an air brush as yet.

Nice work on the hooked-scarfs Ed!  You're a true craftsman! 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 39 – Stern Fancy Rail
 
The so-called “fancy rail” capped the tops of the bulwarks along the main rail, but at the forecastle and poop decks it also served to seal off and make watertight the top of the framing at the side.  Although the curved margin plank below covered the tops of the timbers in these areas, this was not likely a caulked, waterproof joint.  For this reason, the fancy rails at the forecastle and poop needed to be wide enough to overlap the outboard planks and also the inside margin plank by enough to permit good caulked joints.  I wrestled with this because published sections through the bulwarks at the main deck generally show capping rails too narrow to meet the needs described above where they are at deck level.  To resolve this, I decided to make the fancy rail wider at the end decks and step it down at the breast beams to a narrower width along the main deck bulwarks.  A long story, but one that builders of the model should find useful.
 
The work on the fancy rail started at the stern.  The process for making the curved, hook-scarphed pieces was used on the margin plank below and on all similar pieces at both ends.  Since I took a lot of pictures of the method on this rail, and since there are a number of these pieces to make, I decided to show the process that I use for this in some detail. Although it is covered in depth in the book for the framed model, this description may be of help to builders of this smaller version.   In the first picture the first piece has been cut and pinned on the starboard quarter.  
 

 
Pin holes were pre-drilled for a sliding fit with the pins.  The joint of the two stern sections will be on the centerline – staggered from the joints on the margin plank below.  On this model all the pieces were cut from ¾” stock.  I used this as a maximum thickness on this version so modelers could cut members to size with a good 4” circular saw and not need major tools like full size band(or circular) saw and thickness sander(or planer) that would be necessary if starting with the thicker stock that is needed for many pieces on the framed model.  In this case the stock was readily available ¾” maple cut to a thickness of 3½” (just over 1/32”).  It will be painted.
 
In the next picture the scarph joints have been formed at the ends and the piece re-pinned in place.
 

 
The piece extends about 3” outside of the outboard planking and covers about one-half of the margin plank.  The piece was initially formed by the process shown below for the second piece on the port side.
 

 
The ¾” width of maple strip was first marked to the shape of the stern from below as shown.  The piece is being test fit in the next picture after cutting the outer curve.
 

 
In the next picture end of this piece is being marked from the joint of the piece below.
 

 
The full width of the piece was then marked out using a compass set to the width of the plank with an extended leg held to the outer curve.  It was then carefully cut and shaped to this line.  Care is needed because of the weak cross grain at the ends.  I believe in an earlier post I pasted similar pieces to a scrap piece to protect the ends on a similar piece for cutting.  The next picture shows the piece slipped under the first piece, fit into place and being drilled for locating pins.
 

 
Once pinned the joint on the new piece can be marked out using a very sharp pencil as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The joint was then cut on the second piece and fitted to the first as shown below. 
 

 
This picture was taken during the cutting and fitting process.  Note that the joint has not yet been cut at the forward end of this piece.  I will not describe cutting these joints since the method appears in a number of my other posts and is fully described in the book – and in the Naiad books.
 
In the next part the side rails along the poop will be fitted and all these rails rounded off, painted and installed.
 
 
Ed

She looks awesome Bob, and it's a pleasure to behold. 

I've now done the channels and chainplates. The channels were made to fit between the two hull moldings, shaped on the bottom and one side of each, and slots filed for the chainplates. After adding some eyebolts, they were pinned and glued to the hull. The chainplates were made from brass strip, shaped with files, and holes drilled for pins. They were then blackened. The deadeyes were strapped with black wire and the chainplates were bent around them before mounting them with pins into holes drilled in the hull. The smaller chainplates were made the same way, making sure that hooks (Chuck's acrylic hooks) would fit into their loops.
 
I am now finishing up the remaining outer hull details.
 
Bob
 

Nigel, very nice job on the sails and lines.  I assume from your comments you are hand sewing the sails? Correct ?

Nigel, I like the sails, especially the color. Nice job on the battens also. Ship is looking good.

Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!

Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!

I think Nenad nailed comment of the week... I'm there with him and Jack...      But I will add... I'm not worthy... :im Not Worthy:

That windless is just insanely good Master Ed.

Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!

Setting the yard and sail.  As Clare mentioned in his blog, the setting of the sail "billow" is a challenge. 
 
        Bob R.

Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!

Piet;
Thanks for the instructions.  Only one problem.  I am planning to put the boat in a display case which means there will be wires and batteries.  There is another solution.
I am going to cut a piece of mirror to the dimensions so it fits towards the bow in the cabin.  I will leave the cabin door open.  Once the boat is in a case, you can use a flashlight and shine it in the cabin and the mirror will reflect the interior. 
I am going to use the lights setup for something else.
Marc

Hi Nigel, thanks for the compliments on the boat and bird. 
 
I've used Testor's ModelMaster series paints for years on my plastic models. It's an excellent paint; their other series (ones you see in the teeny tiny jars) is fair; but the ModelMaster series is excellent.  Of course, the best paints were the Floquil and PolyS paints but they've gone out of existence altho some hobby stores still have some in stock.  For my woodcarvings, I've pretty much stuck to water based acrylics which I've now applied to boats. I have not tried ModelMaster paints on wood yet but have no reason to think they would not work well on wood. Probably need a different primer for wood than the Gesso I've been using.
 
ModelMaster goes on well with a brush and is easily used (with their airbrush thinner) in an airbrush. Coverage is excellent with either method. I've used it in an airbrush to paint camouflage pattens with great results.
 
The bird's feathers were burned/carved into the wood first using a Colwood Cub woodburner with the "B" tip, then they were painted using acrylics. Takes as much patience as tying ratlines. I haven't tried the woodburner on wooden ships but it would probably work fine.

The shipyard's paint department.  Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
 

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!

OMG !!!