Jack12477

It is easy to criticize something like this. As mentioned the people who buy this sort of thing are as has been stated likely just buying a piece of "decoration" As "offensive" this might be to some, think about the implications for the "craftsmen" who are making this stuff. (How different is this from the rather garish decorations that adorn a great number of houses every Christmas, the fake trees that can cost up to a thousand dollars? ) for them it is a way to put bread on the table, to feed themselves or family, some of them might even enjoy doing this work. I would imagine that it beats sitting on an assembly line installing "x" in an I phone or some other piece of disposable electronic junk (think again of all the stuff filling the toy shelves every Christmas).
 
I would not be too quick to be so judgmental of these things, just my two cents worth, and for those who are engaged in the production of this stuff they probably need the two cents more than I do.
 
Happy new year to all.
 
Michael

The planking above the wales is basically completed.  Just a few more planks to add on the port side as you can see.  I didnt bother simulating the caulking between the seams where it wont show.  So it looks a bit weird now.  But once the molding and second layer of the wales is added it will look fine.
 
You can only see a few places with a crisp line for the seams.  This was done by running a number two pencil down one plank edge.  If I did this on both plank edges it would have been too pronounced for my tastes.
 
I will plank the transom and counter next at the stern.  Its an interesting detail that in case of a cutter like this you dont plank the stern counter first.   The transom and counter are planked after the sides of the hull.   The exposed end-grain of the counter planking and transom planking will be protected from the elements and rot by the fashion pieces.   You can see them in the profile drawing.  So you will not see any of the end grain from the planking.  The frame for the square tuck also does this for the end grain of the planks.  Its an interesting feature and I almost forgot NOT to plank the counter first.  It is something I am so accustomed to doing.
 
Before I plank the stern transom and counter I have some shaping of the outer stern frames to do.  I will post pictures of this as well because its an important feature to keeping the finished model looking accurate.  So far its coming together quite well without any real issues.  Its a fun build so far.  You can start to see the final shape of the cutter come to life as the planking progresses.  I know the bulwarks look thick at this point but they will actually be thinned down quite a bit soon.  The outboard and inboard planking at the sheer was actually just 1 1/2" thick....once its planked inboard and out the final width will be just 1/8 - 5/32" thick at the most.   Closer to 1/8" thick I hope.
 

 

 

Battle of the Stern - Opening Salvos
 
Reread the plans at least 10 times and compared them to the salvaged stern section from V 1.0...  realized I can do a lot better and also figured out where the errors crept in.  Then reviewed Hahn's article from the NRJ on her.  The pictures were unclear and perhaps I missed something first time through.  So... scanned the article and adjusted the pics... yep.  whiffed it.  Scan of a a scan of a printed magazine with retouched photos...  <hangs head since he knows better>
 
So, I started with some deconstruction by removing the stern post.  That done, took some basswood and worked on the filler piece.  The pics seem to show one curve (which I used for V 1.0) and plans show a different curve.  Originally, I figured Hahn found something and did the filler differently then the drawing and I followed that.  Wrong!!!!  It was the pic. I followed the drawing this time.  Much happier.
 
Also, worked on the first transom frame.  A lot happier even though it took the second try to get it right.  
 
These are "rough faired" for now.  I'll go back and finish shaping when the second transom is installed.
 

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

OK, time to have some fun.
 
Mass production of the gun carraiges has begun.  Like the guns themselves, the carraige sides also grow on trees:
 

 
Chuck's carraiges embody quite a few parts.  Here are a few ready to go:
 

 
 
Before things get too far down the road (I don't like surprises), I decided to more or less complete one 12 pounder to check that everything was going to fall into place.  Besides, I have some extra cannon so gun #1 was done to serve as the prototype.  It will not be appearing on the model.  Here are a few angles:
 

 

 

 
I'm happy to report that she fits nicely into the gun ports from a height and elevation standpoint so now I'm free to proceed with the next 28 !!
 
Take solace in the fact that this mini-model will not go to waste.  It's been deployed as a security measure to guard my vast collection of proof silver coins (one, at last count):
 

 
The assembly line is now in full production mode.
 
Everyone stay well ---- and WARM!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

come to think of it John........I do have a couple of pictures in the camera.   the 'warming house' has been a thought on my mind.   I had a chuckle........I thought of....of all things.......Jed Clampett's cabin,  from the TV series.   yea, I'm right on it       then I thought about ships that have  'badges' on their stern galleys.
 
I like the idea..........I would have to install bay windows on both sides.   but.......what about the transom wall?   on most contemporary ships,  these are flush mount windows........I'm thinking.........I'm thinking 
 
here is what I have so far on the Jingle Belle..............
 

 

 
I still have to create the front wall.    I hope to have more on this soon 

thanks Nils.......a very interesting way of putting it.  the Andrea Gail spin off from this build, is more of an expansion of what I've already learned.  I started bashing these kits,  from the very first one......which was an old kit to start with,  not even laser cut.  there are a lot of folks that have built from kits,  later to turn to scratch builds,  which are more challenging and thought provoking.  having built so many car models {plastic},  I saw how many spin offs one can make using a particular car body,  and wondered if this could be applied to this medium as well.  there are some kits out there,  that other ships can be made,  beside the intended subject.......some even supply the parts to do so.  it made me look at the concept of  'the kit'......which led to the parts panels,  in which to recreate other hulls.   the hull is the basis needed in which to start with.   it can then be fitted out the way you want to,  to build the ship you intend it to be.
 
the fantasy builds are nice........but the Andrea Gail pushes the envelope a bit further,  because I'm using the instruction sheets for the model,  in which to build it.  when I stood back,  after finishing the planking of the Boulogne Etaples,  the Andrea Gail was the first boat that I thought of.....in terms of the hull construction.   the only flaw was the stern......it needed to be a little longer,  and squared {not tapered}.   I was going to create another hull, making these changes,  but things being what they were....and the pull to do it being too strong,  I just took the third hull and started on it.   it's not perfect,  but I think I achieved what I set out to do
 
I think you'll like this Nils.......I've been wanting to do this for a while now.  here they are all together......the Boulogne Etaples,  the two Holiday Harbor builds,  and the Andrea Gail.   to replicate just the hull and go in the fantasy direction,  one can let their imagination go wild.  but,  to create a known ship,  the direction changes to a more focused build.  personally,  I don't think the focus changes all that much,  it's more the scope of the build.   it's bash 'n scratch at a whole new level
 

 
the Jingle Belle,  Andrea Gail,  tree boat,  and the Boulogne Etaples
 

 

 
the Boulogne Etaples.........
 

 
.....to the Andrea Gail......a dramatic change fro the original kit.
 

 
I still have a ways to go in acquiring the level that the more experienced modelers have.....I have doubts that I ever will.   I will assure you though,  that I'm having a lot of fun trying

Thanks for all the likes, and to Row ,Mark, Druxey, and Andy thank you for your kind remarks they are very encouraging.
 
Began working on the new head part today but first I needed to make a couple of tools to help with some of the tasks.
 
first one was an end mill that was .155 in diameter and with a .015 radius at the cutting edge this was to ensure that the combustion cavity had a bit of a cove rather than a sharp corner.
 

 
a test cut
 

 
 
The second one was to make a collar for the 6 x .05mm tap so that I could tap in line accurately without taking the drill chuck out. It is just a disk of 1/2 inch aluminum with a couple of grub screws at right angles I ground a couple of 1/16th flats at the threaded end of the tap then I could use the drill chuck as the guide by releasing the tap from finger tight this way the drilled hole and the tapping are able to be accomplished without moving the work.
 

 
Then a lot of fiddly settings to shape the cavities.
 

 

 

 

 

 
next comes a lot of filing to finalize the shape.
 
Michael

TAKE... ME... TO... YOUR... LEADER
 
Sorry I couldn't resist, I just showed this to Jude and she said hey it looks like a face then in a robotic voice said "take me to your leader" I laughed out loud.
 
Just a bit more fetling and then I can move on to the next piece. I need to add a couple of relive grooves so that the jacket clears the valve springs, I will use an .093" end mill. lay the block on the top face and centre the end mill over the valve guide holes and just take a whisker off down to the holes.
 
Bob thanks for your very kind comment.
 
Thanks also for all the likes.
 
Michael

Lawrence, David, Bill and Jerry,  Many thanks.  I was out of town for the past several days and just returned.
David, the acrylic case with wood strips sounds like a great idea.
Bill, I can't imagine the Victory without a case. I think it would be a dust catcher, and little hands (grandchildren and great grandchildren) would eventually find their way into the rigging.  I'll likely follow what I did for the Constitution.
 
I made a case for the "USS Constitution" of glass (tempered, so that the glass would break into tiny bits if shattered).  Brass trim was added and when the top front is lifted, the front glass sheet can be lifted out for easy access.  And finally a table was made to fit the case.  The Constitution however, was somewhat smaller than the Victory.  It's a museum.
 
The model of the Constitution without a case.
 

 
Completion of the case.
 

 
And finally the supporting table.
 

 
Cheers, Gil

Three part before it’s right? I’d hate to tell you how many parts I threw away.  But, Michael, it’s not how many parts you make but the way you make them.  It is the rounding of the top surface on the head instead of leaving the edges sharp and looking at the mounting holes on that last block and the way you shape around them.  Many would have cut straight across like the edge touching the paper.  It is that sort of shaping and detailing that make you a master modeler in metal and in wood.
 
Bob

Mistakes, or not...still absolutely amazing that you're building your own motor!!!!

Denis ,Row, Dan, Carl, thanks for looking in and for the kind words. 
 
I am beginning to wonder about this engine business.
 
The three cylinder blocks so far!
 

 
The one in the middle was the first one I was getting more dissatisfied by the hour, because the little break through into the water jacket area was nagging at me all the time. It was actually the second of the things that was bugging me and the top part had its own error I realized the oval water area was too long. also I decided that the bottom mounting lugs needed to be an integral part instead of part of a plate that was going to be fitted to the bottom somehow?
 
So I started over and was merrily milling down into the water jacket area when saw the cutter making it way down the outside of the jacket....... yup I set the cuts on the mill from the wrong side of the block after working the outside dimensions.
 
you can see the clean little slot on the one in the back, right down the middle.
 
The one in the front is version number three, according to folk lore it should be lucky.
 

 
The most tricky part was drilling the inlet and exhaust holes (still a bit gun-shy after the first mistake) I had to set the block up with a compound angle, for each hole the inlet ones on the outside and the exhaust ones in the middle. Now the hand work filing the surface shapes is under way. I also increased the size of the valve heads to .125 from .093 inches. The bore of the cylinders is reduced to 5/16 from 3/8ths in order to get more space for water circulation.
 

 
Carl in answer to your question why brass instead of iron, it is because brass is easier to work and I have the material. I have noticed that some of the engines on the engine website are brass and they seem to run fine as long as there is a steel or iron liner and an aluminum piston. this is the route that I am following.
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks guys
 
Rusty it will be basically the same.  Except in this case the original planking expansion did show one drop plank at the bow.  I am basically replicating that draft exactly.  So I will include that drop plank and then divide the bottom of the hull into belts.   But only two this time.   Then I will line off the hull before moving forward with the planking.
 
Heres what the hull looks like after those two planks were added between the molding and the wales.  I only darkened the seams where it will eventually be noticed.  This helps if I need to tweak the placement of the second layer for the wales and molding.   Without the seams darker its easier to move the second layer without folks noticing.
 
You will notice the darker wales.  This was just a sheet of boxwood I had that was noticeable darker.  I figured what the heck,  I might as well use it for the wales.  Its going to be painted anyway.  It also helps me visualize the run of the wales as I plank above them.
 

I started the planking today.  This always begins with placing battens on the hull.  The top of the batten represents the bottom edge of the wales.  I really spent a lot of time on these because it will establish the run of all of the planks on the hull.
 

 
It was added to both sides so I can check it from every conceivable angle.  Once I was satisfied I planked the wales with two strips.  This will be the first layer.  After I plank the hull from here up to the sheer,  I will come back and add the final layer.  Its a hold over from my time building kits.  I like the idea of being able to make small adjustments with the run of the wales on the final layer.  Since it will be painted black and this isnt the final layer it laid down in one long strip rather than in 25 foot long pieces.
 
Now on most ships you can just start planking from the wales up...the run of the wales determines the run of the planking above it to the sheer.  Mostly anyway.
 
In this case however it isnt true.  It is again one of the reasons I chose the Cheerful.  Its not difficult work at all but requires careful planning.  If you examine the plan for the cheerful you will see the run of two moldings just under and through the gunports.   I was fortunate to have the original draft for teh planking expansion and my model will follow it exactly.  The same number of strakes and their run are precisely copied from it.  The space between this molding and the wales is not consistent.   So I decided to add the 1/16" strip first which for the most part runs right under the ports, leaving a 1/64" rabbet along the bottom of each port.
 

 
Then I divided up that space between the molding strip and the wales equally so I can taper these two strakes that will fit between them.  You may be able to see my tick marks defining the space and strakes on each bulkhead.
 

 
The molding strip is just the first layer also....Once its all done I will come back and add the final layer after scraping the fancy profile into it.    Once again, having a little wiggle room to adjust teh run of the molding later is a huge plus.
 
Then its just a matter of finishing the planking and other molding strip as I work my way up to the sheer.
 
Chuck

Thanks Marty, Bob and the "Likes".  I appreciate everyone checking out my build log.
 
Marty, I look forward to seeing the photo of your Longboat.  I like to study the photos of everyone's Longboat build.
 
Bob, I am flattered by your comment about my build.  I have studied your build log and have used your techniques throughout my build.  If my build comes out half as nice as yours, I will be really pleased.  Your build has set the standard for Longboat builds.
 
I have completed the rear platform and the forward wall of the locker.  I used BobF's method of making templates to cut out the platforms.  The templates really help to get a good fit.
 

 
Here is a picture of the overall look at the interior of my Longboat.

● First planking layer (part 2): Before adding the garboard planks I did as Chuck advised and thinned the rabbet down to 1/16" in the area where the stern post will go.
 
The width across the rabbet is too wide where the planks twist and some additional sanding is needed.
 

 
The planks will be sanded down gradually to around 1/32" to blend in where the stern post will be located.
 

Before sewing the folded edges down on my sails I put a thread along the inside edge all the way around. Where it met I overlapped it a few inches. My reasoning for this is to have a reinforced line for when I sew the bolt rope along the outside edge. The inside thread is small enough to not show when sewed in but a big & strong enough to hold the bolt rope & also I wont have to worry about the sail edge pulling through.
 
 

Very well said, Keith !!!
 
 
... and very well argued !!

Thank you all for the likes.
Brian, Jack, Mark  thanks for the kind comments.
Ed the more I think about laminating the ribbands the more I like the idea.
 
I discovered that at this small scale there is little room for error. When I removed the support plugs today after finishing the shaping and a few more holes for the water inlet and inspection hole in the front side, I saw that the port holes had in fact penetrated the wall of the water jacket. the space inside the jacket is large enough that I decided to add a plate that will get sweated in place.
 
the first picture shows the two crescent shaped holes from the port drill breaking through the wall.
 

 
The sleeve insert is machined from some  hard 3/4 brass rod the wall thickness was .020"  I sliced off two rings then cut those further to just fit enough that the curve is slightly greater than half the diameter inside. By doing it this way they are snug enough that they do not fall out.
 

 
The next picture shows the inspection hole which still need cleaning up and the cylinder liner positioned to show the water circulation cavity. I will make the base plate before the liners are finalized. It has occurred to me that I will need a pretty good filter system to keep any debris out of the water system.
 

 
The next photo shows the top of the cylinder with the head removed the holes still need to be reamed 13/32 for the stainless liners. I am still contemplating making these two parts able to be separated I think I have enough space to add some small long bolts up through the water jacked that way they would be hidden.
 

 

 
I think I need a break from metalwork and do a little whittling of the boxwood stem and sternpost.
 
Michael
 
 

Sweet machining.  This is right up there with the goodies at:  http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/index.html

Steve just plain old "elbow grease" files , wet and dry 400, 600, and steel wool. The files are what do bulk of the work. The hard brass might also contribute. 
I notice that some brass is more yellow and gummy. This brass is nice to machine and work with hand tools.
 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 93 – Main Deck Framing 4
 
The two large fresh water tanks needed to be permanently installed before the main deck framing could be completed.  The first photo shows these two tanks in place.
 

 
The tanks were iron and rest on heavy wood bases in the hold over the keelson.  These bases were shown in earlier posts.  The tanks were made from cardstock glued on to wood blocks.   The picture also shows  tops of the lower sections of the bilge pump suction piping just forward of the tanks.   The next picture shows the run of these pipes down to the limber channel.
 

 
The pipes are copper tube.  The upper sections between these pipes and the pumps on the main deck will be installed later.  The 4”x4” dunnage timbers on the base for the forward tank can be seen in this picture – taken before setting the tanks - just aft of the pipes.  The main mast step can be seen just forward of the pipes.  (This was shot at an aperture of F32 and very slow shutter – much better field depth vs. the pictures in last post.)
 
In the next picture the framing in the midship area is approaching completion.
 

 
All of the full beams have been installed in this picture including their hanging knees and pillars.  In the picture the headers for the main hatch - with scores cut for the half beams - have been fit as well as the main mast partner carlings.  In the next picture the framing over the tanks has been completed and the last pillar under one of the half-beams is being test fit. 
 

 
All of the pillars are pinned with copper wire bolts top and bottom.  The fitting of this last pillar finishes the deck beam setting.  The next picture shows the hull with the main deck framing at this stage.
 

 
Next will come the lodging knees for all these beams and the ledges – but first a few housekeeping items needed to be taken care of.  One of these was literally a housecleaning of the workshop that might be partially noticeable in the above picture.  This tidying up also included installing 10 dozen or so functional copper wire bolts with epoxy to further secure the main deck beams and knees.  One of these is being installed in the next picture.
 

 
There are two at the end of each beam – one through the beam into the clamp and one through the beam into the hanging knee.  The other task was to apply wax finish to all of the structure from the middle deck up to just below the main deck beams.  This cannot be done easily after the ledges are installed. 
 
The deck framing has not been sanded at this stage as might be noticed.  This will be done once after all of the ledges are installed.
 
Ed

Today I started my work with the rear platform, after yesterdays mistake of the crooked eye I paid extra attention when gluing the planks that they were going to come in straight.  It worked!
 

 
I did notice that in the instructions the rear platform is cut so that it curves into a much smaller space as it moves toward the aft, after I finished I decided I was ok with the shape and size of mine.
 
I then proceeded to the risers, I was careful to use a spacer underneath the cap rail to ensure that I had consistent distances along the entire run as well as ensuring that both sides were mirrors.
 

 
I put in the front of the storage locker after completing the risers
 

 
In this picture you can see the run of the boat inside, I used a slightly different stain on the floorboards, risers, platforms and thwarts.  The planking and structure of the boat is MinWax Fruitwood 241 while the internal structures I went a hair lighter on and used Ipswitch Pine 221.  The Ipswitch pine has a nice light reddish hue that I felt matched up nicely with the red on the cap rail and knees (hard to tell from the photos)
 

 
I started playing around with the thwarts, I just have them dry fit and not accurately at this point
 

 
And then I pulled them out, scribed and stained them.  
 

 
That will be the beginning of next weekends time in the shipyard, finishing the thwarts, cockpit and figuring out how to make the all important thwart where the mast comes through.  I'll be poring over all the finished build logs to see how other folks have done that portion.