Jack12477

This the way I made my hinges on my Xebec.
 
I cut a piece of tube to length.
 

 
I used soft solder to solder the tube to the strap.
 

 
One hinge ready for the fixing holes
 

Thanks Kevin,  For those not familiar with Studding Sails (Stuns'ls), the following should clarify.
 
  Studding Sails
 
Studding Sail Boom
 
  Ship with Studding Sails deployed.
 
Cheers, Gil
 
 

While I'm waiting for my fighting tops trim to set & dry I figured I look my ship over. Here's the aft port side all rigged and ready for battle!

last evening I was thinking about giving my friend Al a watercolour painting for all his help with launching Maria a month ago.
The universe works in mysterious ways and demonstrates abundance when one is open to it.
 
This morning my friend Al showed up with the following items and said do you want these.
 


 




 
He was clearing up the floor of his shop to make room for the boats he will be working on over the winter. he is not a wood worker and was given these by his brother in law a few years back and never used them.
 
It was such and easy answer. I do feel blessed this morning.
They will need a bit of cleaning but all work perfectly, the carbide router bits are virtually brand new. The lathe was set up as a sander so it will go back to being a wood lathe.
 
I need to rethink the size of the watercolour now.
 
Michael

that is the question? given they don't really stand out too much on the real article i'm
wondering why i should bother? i know it seems most "hot" builds here go with the
pronounced deck treenail configuration but in reality they are almost invisible. so: to treenail
or not to treenail? that is the question.

Hello, I have placed some coasts yet to be finished, on a provisional basis
 
 

 

 

 

Hello, I have finished assembling of cant frames.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

My model shipway.
 

 

 

 

One down. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Lots of pins, alligator clamps as heat sinks and wet paper towels to keep other joints from coming apart as I soldered the newest ones.
 

 

This build remains at the top of my list of the finest, most comprehensive models I have ever had the pleasure of watching come together. You are a very special artist sir. Thank you again for this amazing log.
 
PS: Anyone who has not visited your Vic log is really missing something very special.
 
Dave

Its purpose is to prevent kickback.
Kickback can happen when the wood gets in contact with the rising teeth of the blade, which then will grab the wood and throw it back to the operator, most likely hitting him in the chest, shoulder or face.
 
The splitter sits at a fixed spot on the table respectively in the insert plade and has the disadvantage that as you lower the blade the distance between it and the splitter widens, so that the splitter can not do its job until the wood has overcome this distance. As the height of the splitter is fixed it does not allow cuts shallower that the wood thickness.
Whereas a riving knife always keeps the same distance and height in relation to the blade. When using a guard that is not attached to the riving knife the latter one even allows cuts shallower than the wood thickness.
 
In the video on this page the whole thing gets explained pretty well (with the exception that he apparently is not aware of the fact that a piece of wood that has gotten caught by the blade's teeth does not travel horizontally but rises up at about a 30° - 45° angle. Only long pieces of wood that got caught between the fence and the blade get ejected horizontally).
 
Edit:
Another thing the guy in the video gets wrong is when he says that the riving knife without the guard simply gets used to "offer a better view to the blade". That's a bit a weird statement indeed! Why would someone want to look at the blade? Of course, the blade is beautiful, but once the fence is set or the wood is positioned on the miter gauge the cut gets made, no need to watch the blade! If one needs to watch the running blade to make a cut it means that the setup has not been done properly!

Jack, I believe you have found a way to do it. You're right that it might be more time consuming unless doing many of them. Still, I will pick up the bit to see how well it cuts. Funny how CS at Dremel told me they didn't have a bit that would do it.
 
This is the #654 bit

 
Michael, I will try the file way as well.
 
Thanks, Mike

Mike
 
Couldn't view the video - guess it's for subscribers only.
 
To answer your original question about half lap joints - yes, I believe you could use the Dremel Shaper table with either the #650 1/8 " or #654  1/4 " straight bits to achieve a half lap.  Dremel's website shows this result for these two bits.  So if you move the bit over to the side more it should result in a half lap joint.  From my experience just playing with the Shaper table you will definitely need two feather boards - one to as a hold-down and one to hold it against the cutter.
 
But as Mike Mott points out, this is probably a lot of setup for just a couple pieces. If you are doing  many pieces it will probably be less time comsuming.
 
Jack
 
Update:
I just checked a little further on Dremel's website and found this picture associated with the #654 1/4" straight bit which is, I think, exactly what you want to do.

I stained the hammocks to give them a weathered look. Stark white didn't work for me. No sea going hammock is going to be stark white. Now they have a salty look.

Jack,
 
You're right.  My bad.  The old MM saw is gone and replaced by the new one.  I have no idea if the dados would work on the new.  

Perhaps a jig something like this one could be built adapted for cutting miniature joints.
 
Michael

looking for the jig for the jewelers saw I found the chap who I was looking for, William Robertson designed a special holder to cut dovetails and other joints with a jewelers saw, i am still looking for this jig but in the meantime enjoy his amazing work.
I think we could all use a set of these tools.

 
Michael

There is a pretty simple tool you can make for the side to side squareness. Take two wood strips and bolt them together an inch or so from one end. They should be loose enough they can open up like scissors. Cut the long ends to a point. Then you place the jig with the points down and to the inside sides of the deck behind the mast the rake it back so it rests in the V at the top. This ensures the mast is square to the sides.
 
The rake, according to the Navy plan is about 2.5 degrees ion the fore mast, 3 degrees on the main, and almost 4 degrees on the mizzen. If you look on the Navy Sail Plan they give the rake at the bottom in inches per foot.

Jack....thanks for the Hu-Kwa Tea!

Mike
 
Dremel makes a bit to cut a square bottom slot/dado - comes in two sizes.The bit is included in their "router" multi-bit package (U-veiner, Chamfer, Round-over, Cove, and two straight bits - if I recall correctly). I have not tried this yet but I'm thinking that if you use the wider of the two bits and adjust the fence on your Dremel jig just right, you could get the same results as using a true rabbetting bit. (Too bad they don't carry one - I seem to recall they had one way back when - like their table top bench vise which you can no longer find.).
 
I don't know of any table saw maker that makes a scale dado set, which is really what we need for these many miniature tables saws (e.g Byrnes - which I agree is a wee bit outside my budget)
 
Try experimenting with your current Dremel jig.  My workshop is under going some need reorganization and clean-up right now or I would try playing with mine.
 
Jack

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.