Jack12477

Hmmm ! Simple !?!?! Hmmm  !  I believe a consultation with the Three Philosophers is advised ! Maybe even a couple of consultations

The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter!   Finished the main mast sails and rigging along with the braces for the fore mast yards.  Mizzen is next in line.  Then have to make 127 rope loops for the belaying pins.
 

 

Signal gun, ver #2

Ver #1 just dissapeared from table at half of road @#@##





Gun is made from toothpick in Dremell, basement is made from 1mm veneer, wheels from old rounded molding, cutted to 1,5 mm, glued with ca, and thined in width to scale after glue dry

For now, I think I'll just jump over bolt issue on gun basement. To be in scale, their outer dia has to be less than 1mm, and I think that is no point even to try. The thinnest solid wire I have is 0,5mm, and there is no way to pack ring and hole under 1mm. Bolts on decking at the roof on aft-deck house will be quite enough, with some ropes

Really small beast

The shipyard's paint department.  Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
 

Thanks Ken, Pete and everyone who clicked LIKE.
 
Yes, Ken, for the most part Ceramcoat. Also Americana, another brand sold by Michaels.  Actually the blue isn't that translucent. It was just easier to work from top to bottom. In addition if you look closely you will see a "rub" strake bow to stern. It's a strip of thin plywood cut to a curve that goes over the hull, so I painted it separate from the rest then glued it over to hide the blue/white demarcation line.  Clamping it was a bear tho.
 
The only Liquitex brand I used was the Gesso and Cobalt blue to darken the Ceramcoat blue.  99% of the acrylics I use are either Ceramcoat or Americana brand from Michaels - also used for my woodcarvings.

Perfectly white towel is a good match for the perfectly built model!
Your accuracy is unbeatable!

Wow!!! What nice compliments from all of you and thanks for all the "Likes" as well.
 
I must say that Cheerful has not been an easy task. Being fairly new to the hobby, I need some guidance on figuring out how to do it right and Chuck, your support is highly appreciated. Even so, there are times when something doesn't look or fit right and it means that I have to do it again. I used to get frustrated but now I just accept the re-do's as being part of the hobby. Honestly though I am getting a wee bit better on knowing when to say "good enough".
 
Again, thank you all for your kind and inspiring comments. This hobby is a lot of fun!
 
Mike

It's the aluminum foil used in the packages of Mucinex  decongestant. Cut the little sheets up and you have scale aluminum strips.

The shipyard's paint department.  Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
 

The shipyard's paint department.  Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
 

Thanks Ken, Pete and everyone who clicked LIKE.
 
Yes, Ken, for the most part Ceramcoat. Also Americana, another brand sold by Michaels.  Actually the blue isn't that translucent. It was just easier to work from top to bottom. In addition if you look closely you will see a "rub" strake bow to stern. It's a strip of thin plywood cut to a curve that goes over the hull, so I painted it separate from the rest then glued it over to hide the blue/white demarcation line.  Clamping it was a bear tho.
 
The only Liquitex brand I used was the Gesso and Cobalt blue to darken the Ceramcoat blue.  99% of the acrylics I use are either Ceramcoat or Americana brand from Michaels - also used for my woodcarvings.

The shipyard's paint department.  Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
 

Thanks Ken, Pete and everyone who clicked LIKE.
 
Yes, Ken, for the most part Ceramcoat. Also Americana, another brand sold by Michaels.  Actually the blue isn't that translucent. It was just easier to work from top to bottom. In addition if you look closely you will see a "rub" strake bow to stern. It's a strip of thin plywood cut to a curve that goes over the hull, so I painted it separate from the rest then glued it over to hide the blue/white demarcation line.  Clamping it was a bear tho.
 
The only Liquitex brand I used was the Gesso and Cobalt blue to darken the Ceramcoat blue.  99% of the acrylics I use are either Ceramcoat or Americana brand from Michaels - also used for my woodcarvings.

Thanks Ken, Pete and everyone who clicked LIKE.
 
Yes, Ken, for the most part Ceramcoat. Also Americana, another brand sold by Michaels.  Actually the blue isn't that translucent. It was just easier to work from top to bottom. In addition if you look closely you will see a "rub" strake bow to stern. It's a strip of thin plywood cut to a curve that goes over the hull, so I painted it separate from the rest then glued it over to hide the blue/white demarcation line.  Clamping it was a bear tho.
 
The only Liquitex brand I used was the Gesso and Cobalt blue to darken the Ceramcoat blue.  99% of the acrylics I use are either Ceramcoat or Americana brand from Michaels - also used for my woodcarvings.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

It's the aluminum foil used in the packages of Mucinex  decongestant. Cut the little sheets up and you have scale aluminum strips.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

It's the aluminum foil used in the packages of Mucinex  decongestant. Cut the little sheets up and you have scale aluminum strips.

It's the aluminum foil used in the packages of Mucinex  decongestant. Cut the little sheets up and you have scale aluminum strips.

Update:
 
Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there.  The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above.  Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP.
 
Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up
 

 
I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.

Status
 
My last log entry was posted a few days before Thanksgiving. Then I left for my annual trip to my Sister home in colonial New England where it not uncommon to see signs on homes stating they were built in the early 1700’s. It’s just outside of Hartford CT but very picturesque. Her house is only 35 years old, but that’s another story. Anyways, I spent the week there so no work was done on the model. Last week I returned home and thought I was all set to start work on the Spritsail Topsail Yard when I decided to check the rigging list provided by my Mamoli kit. And low and behold I discovered that I had forgotten to install the main and fore masts Topgallant stays which are very similar to the topmast backstays. So here it is, the beginning of a new week, the stays were constructed and installed, and now I am preparing to visit Mom in Florida (where else) for a week. She’s 97 and she’s got a bunch of “honey do’s” for me. I don’t know how much I’ll get accomplished this week on the model before I leave.
 
There was one other item that also took a day of my time. About 10 years or so ago, I bought a metal work bench. It had a clean metal work surface, drawers, and a peg board to hang tools and stuff. I added the power and lights. It work great and it would still work great today if I didn’t have so much stuff on it now. It’s gotten so bad that I have to clear a small spot very time in order to do anything. The model has to be on the coffee table because there is no room. Fed up, I finally bought a wooden work bench from Harbor Freight (a China store) for $135 - cheap. It weighs about 100 lbs so it’s solid. The instructions to assemble it were easy to follow, all the holes lined up, and all the hardware fit and worked. I couldn’t have asked for more. The two benches were placed in an L-shaped configuration and the work lamp can swing to either bench. This should make things a bit easier, at least until I started accumulating stuff again.

I decided to incorporate some more bamboo with the belaying pins and hearts. I used some light walnut on the jaws of the two gaffs and boom to give some contrast with the dark walnut as well.

 
Now that the bowsprit is finished, the extended lengths of wood were joined together to give the front end a more solid, stronger look.

 
The remainder of the stays were served and installed. After that I went through and tightened up all of the lanyards and tackle, constantly checking to ensure that the masts stayed true.

 
I also began replacing the tackle on the cannons. It was just killing me to see the rigging stained and the cannons tackle bright and clean. The steering mechanism and the carronade are complete, the long gun is still left to replace.

 
So here's the final look with the standing rigging finished. Now I begin the dilemma of what I'm going to do about the sail situation. Hopefully I'll have it figured out by the end of the year. Thanks again to everyone for the kind words of encouragement and for the likes.