Jack12477

Gradually the fuselage lengthens.
 

Thanks Roger, I'll have to look into that.  Appreciate the suggestion!

many thanks Michel and Rick,
 
Nils

Update
 
made the removeable deck-house together with hand rails and lightshafts with seatight hinged covers. After primering painting the deckhouse  portholes were inserted. Also the aft bulkhead was fitted out with two doors and portholes therein .... Slowly its getting shape
 
Nils
 

the making of the deckhouse

the handrails are from brass wire. There are 5 screws that position and hold down the deckhouse to the deck

 

Dechhouse with portholes

there are 10 lightshafts around the deckhouse, The doors will be next

 
 

One possibility that I considered at one time was to take the Revell Pine Island and suspend a 1/72 scale flying boat over the ship below in a diorama. Or you could make it an emeny ship or sub instead. The difference in scale would provide a distance factor giving a "plane eye view" of the ship below.

AH HA I have accomplished my evil influence!
 
The BV-222 would certainly be a large model and the Emily would be a challenge even though you say that much of what you need is available.
 
I prefer to keep all of my flying boats in the same scale, as in that way you can compare them to each other. You can also add Seaplanes, (Float planes) if you wish but I have never had much interest in those aircraft except for a few civilian models, I always liked the Cessna 170.

Photo time

I wondered  this  as well  Carl   -  does  Anyone  know   what  has happened  to  this  valued  member,  she  seemed  to  just  vanish  at the  time  when  CV19  was  in all  our  lives,   so many   family members  have passed   from  here  -  its  very sad.
 
OC.

Another update....
 
Getting ready for the design of the Thrust Collar... it mounts to the Thrust Crossmember and receives the Thrust Tube from the Rear End.... The Transmission is connected to the thrust tube and all the parts need to align accurately....
 
To this end I drew an engineering sketch of the locations and alignments of all the pieces, it looks like this...

The three lines across the top are the top flange of the right frame rail... The lower horizontal line represents the clutch/engine output shaft line.... The vertical line represents the flange side of the thrust crossmember and the circle behind it is the first universal joint... Then there is the box that pops up above the floorline in the cockpit, it has the cross shaft of the shifter and emergency brake which is represented by the small circle on the box's centerline....The next feature is the large circle, it represents the thrust head that resides in the thrust collar, inside it is the circle for the second universal joint and the vertical center line is the split line between the collars socket and it's retaining cover... Between the centers of the two universals is the transfer shaft, a short driveshaft to allow the driveline to flex into the suspension pivot point the second universal sited at the suspension flex point... Behind that we have the driveline/thrust tube centerline which runs thru the transmission to the Differential center... The large circle represents the Rear Axle flanges and the right brace represents the Differential case perpendicular to the driveline centerline the transmission will be to the left of the brace with the Differential Housing setting the angle of the transmission...
 
I know it's sparse, but it has all the info I need to set it up accurately... I also set up an index point matched to the models origination point in the software, so no matter which drawing I drop it into, it will be in the same place, (model space) on all of them...
 
This is what it looks like...

With this you can readily see that the Tranny is too high and at the wrong angle... The angle problem comes from the Differential Housing rotated too far back and is causing the Transmission to be too high...
 
So, the first step is to correct the Differential Housing's problem, the second step is rebuild the tranny so it matches both the Differential housing mating surface and so the driveline centerline enters the center of the Thrust tube collar on the front of the tranny..
 
The Differential housing was a snap...  took maybe an hour to correct.... The Tranny took four days and three rebuilds... I finally ended up with this...

Looking it over for the last day, there isn't much that can be corrected or re-shaped, it looks like it's pictures and feels right... I'm calling it done... I figure about 97-98% accurate to the real thing....
 
Here is what it looks like with the Rear Axle....

And here you see it with the Alignment sketch...

Here's a better look at it in the frame....

You can't get any better alignment than that...
 
That was a lot of work... Almost ten hours a day except for the normal interruptions of the day... I think it looks kinda good, It fits... More detail takes more work.... {chuckle}
 
Anyway this is where I'm at now, ready to start the Thrust Collar design......  (and give you guys a view into what this kind of modeling work involves)
 
EG
 
Onwards!!!! 
 
Ubiquetous overall shot....

I just stumbled on to this; an interesting project that I’m looking forward to seeing nicely done.
 
The US Navy had some specialized and interesting small boats outfitted to service their fleet of flying boats while still in the water.  If you look in their 1955/1954? Boat Book you will find drawings of these craft.  One could make a great companion to your model. A copy of their Boat Can be found on the Navy’s history site.  Or Google Navy Aircraft Refueling Boat
 
Roger
 
 

As a postscript to the above I hauled out my stock of thinners and experimented. Reading around the internet a lot of people were claiming great results from Mr Color leveling thinners with AK paint. Mind you there were also people claiming great things about using Tamika acrylic thinner which at least for me is a guaranteed way to block the airbrush solid. 
I just learned that Mr Color leveling thinner causes the AK paint to congeal. Tamika lacquer thinner does the same.
As a last shot I tried Mig Ammo acrylic thinner and it thinned nicely. 
Yet curiously MiG Ammo acrylics thin with Tamiya acrylic thinners too. 
 
so it looks like I can avoid using water as a thinner 
 
Onwards 
 
Alan
 
 
 

Yep  I have brought  the  same thing  its  slightly  bigger   40 x 30 x 2.8cm    just waiting for  it  to arrive.
 
OC.

I got this from Amazon F Fityle Diorama Foam Slab Plate...
 
 
 
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09CM6FG4P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
From China as well but came in about 2-3 weeks if that's any alternative for you OC?

This is hardly a progress report today.
 
I sprayed the relevant sections of Zinnia with the AK MS3 paint and found it was hardly distinguishable from the light grey already in place and nothing like the colour chip I have for MS3. I mixed up a blend of IJN grey / green and dark green from Tamiya and used that. I liked the result a lot better so went ahead and added the dark grey.
Today, a day later, I stripped the masking and found that the light grey had bled all over the red lower hull and over the dark grey deck. The dark grey had bled all over the grey / green and the light green. Its far too extensive to touch up.
I haven't had anything as bad as this before. 
The grey green didn't seep anywhere. i think the problem was the AK acrylics which are water based and had to be diluted with water. They sprayed on very wet and I think that resulted in the seeping. The grey / green is Tamiya which I think has an alcohol base and dried fast.
Sorry no pictures I was too disgusted. Its going to need to be stripped down and redone. I need to see if I can use something other than water with the AK paints - or dump them and use all Tamiya ones.
Another day, another lesson learnt
Alan

Just in time for our Independence Day picnics 😇😊😇

Just in time for our Independence Day picnics 😇😊😇

Delightful work, Mark.
 
John

Today was the day when the modelling gods decided I needed a good poking. 
 
I soaked the paper for the wet palette and soaked the sponge. Added BBs to the paint and got a good consistency. New brushes at hand and ready to go.
I picked up the daffadar in the universal clamp and had a brushful of yellow paint poised and, to my horror, the figure fell out of the clamp. I guess I didn't clamp the base tight enough.
The day being what it was the daffadar landed on the Nabopolassar figure which was lurking on the bench. Both heads detached and the soldiers base fell off. 
No obvious damage and the pieces were glued back in place but that shut down any painting plans for the morning. I turned my attention to removing the masking from my Flower Corvette and found that paint had seeped through the masks EVERYWHERE. I've never had a result as bad as this.
Maybe stuffing teddies isn't a bad idea after all.
Alan

I'm fortunate to know a pal who's been building spoked wheels. privately and professionally for over 40 years.
I've watched him build a wheel in much less than an hour.

I blame you for getting me into seaplanes 😝  
 
The JRS-1 at 1/72 is a pretty big model with the wingspan as you know.  I also have a 1/48 PBY-5a kit that I was thinking of starting soon - mostly to free up shelf space as it is a big box, but then the question is where do I put it as that’s a big one for sure.  
 
If you want a really big seaplane, Revell I think is  reissuing the Bv 222.  The model is really nice and doesn’t really require any aftermarket.  I’ve got that one but again, will need quite a bit of space for it.
 
One thing I was thinking was to do a cutaway on a 1/72 Emily since there is a lot of aftermarket that could make the interior look pretty impressive.  One side would have full exterior and wing with mechanics, etc. and other side would be open with pilots and gunners, with only a portion of the wing attached.  That would cut down on the overall size. 

Just need to find time!

This is what I am finding on the Nautilus.  I found that the JCS card model had much better instructions.  

Very cool, Greg.

Coming soon.   Resin cast barrels.
 
I have three sizes of cast resin barrels that will soon be available on my site.  Currently I have the 11/16" tall and the 1" tall barrels.  I am waiting for my casting guy to make the third smaller size.  I may even make a fourth smaller size later as well.
 

 
I have the two smaller sizes and I am waiting for the last larger size not shown. They are cast in white resin or a light tan like my carvings for the ship models I make.   This makes it so much easier to prepare than building my laser cut versions.   Those will still be available but these resin versions will give you guys more options.   These can be prepared in minutes...
 
Just clean whatever flashing which is minimal.   And remove the small vent hole plugs with a sharp #11 blade.   
 
Then brush on some gel stain...in my case pictured,  I used General Finishes Fruitwood gel stain as usual.   I have one coat of stain on these.  You can add more to deepen the color as you see fit.  Then I just used a black sharpie to color the raised iron hoops.   You could use any color you want for those as well.  You could use a copper leaf pen for example.   It isnt difficult....and takes just a few minutes vs. a much longer time to build my laser cut versions.
 
Each size will be sold two per package.
 
Its unfortunately too late for me to add these in the hold of Speedwell....but when you need to make a dozen or more barrels for the hold its nice to not have assemble them one at a time.
 

 
And Buckets...crates...and other items will soon follow.   And whatever else I can possibly think of...please let me know if you guys fancy something in particular.

Indeed, actually, on top of what I said (I simplified a bit the story), as you said, all the spokes must be pre-stressed in tension (the lost art), so the ones on top increase cyclically their tension load and the ones on the bottom decrease it without becoming compressed and so avoiding buckling. Torque (of the engine or the brakes) is transmitted from the hub to the rim thanks to the eccentric positioning of the spokes (if the spokes passed through the axle, no torque could be transmitted). I stop here.
Best regards,
Dan

Thanks Dan - your meticulously finished models are such accomplished model craft. I usually think I’ve wandered into a museum when I look at them.