hof00

Not too bad progress. Bulkheads had alot of fudging around to finaly get planks to lay properly. Probaly going to be few and far between with photos as the planking process takes its time. 

Made one of the ships launches and added some upper shrouds.











 

ASAT - no, we're hard core Halloween buffs and I also work as a scare actor at Six Flags Over Georgia and work the Ga. RenFaire as well. 😃
 
We have our creepy bar downstairs to entertain company. Dark red walls with dark brown trim. A lot of Horror movie pictures, skeletal animals, lots of candelabras with a glowing fireplace! 

Hi all bit more done got the coppering room done (changed the top door as using the kit one and adding the embellishments made the door ridiculously thick) and the central ward room also more rigging on the sail (probably doesn't even notice) but it's there 





You cant really tell but some swearing was involved in the practically invisible rigging you cant even see on the sails.




 

1st planking done.
Needs some filler. Overall happy with outcome. Will pay special attention to area mext to keel so that 2nd planking would drop nicely next to keel.
Stern needs some balsa block for 2nd planking.
 
I would say that Cruiser has more difficult planking that Terror. 

OC - Here's my wife and I with our 'special' nighttime vehicle. She's a 1966 Olds 98 Hearse with a 425ci. Her license plate reads BELATRX. We're creepy enough! LOL 

Ship ahoy. I glued the center plank first, need more research on the web, watching pictures and youtube. To get a idea of the layout. No need to be 100%  My boat will have around 48 deck planking, the original colin archer have 45. Two evenings work made 5 of 48. I hope the idea of permanent marker on the edge of wood planking looks good then finished 😉 

Switching gears now, it was time to work on the outside of the hull once again so the ship was now supported in the cradle with the waterline level with the benchtop.  I made this makeshift waterline marker shown below from scraps and ran a line around the hull with the pen. 

    Using an exacto knife I carefully followed that inked line with a depth guide clamped to the blade to limit the depth of cut to 1/32”.  Then I cut a block of 1 ½” thick lumber to size and glued a piece of foam padding to the bottom side and drilled for two screws through the block and into the carved out companionway areas so I could mount the hull upside down in a vice as needed. 
    Now I proceeded to shave 1/32” from the hull with a narrow chisel one plank width at a time using a plank as a guide.  I starting from the waterline and worked my way up to and including the shear strakes.  The shear strakes had been made early on from 1/32” x 5/32” basswood planks that followed the edge of the carved hull.  At that time 1/16” wide by 3/32” deep notches were made in the shear planks and cut into the hull at the location of every third stanchion.  Now a slightly overlong 1/16” square basswood stanchion was glued in place at every notch with carpenters glue and left to set up for two days to be sure that they were solidly anchored.  The edges to be left exposed were painted light buff deckhouse.
    Then I steam bent a 1/32” thick basswood plank to follow the curve of the decks.  This was then clamped to the notched stanchions to hold the false timberheads in between, which had also been painted light buff deckhouse, in their premarked locations.  I glued down their ends with carpenters glue, and after this set up for a couple of days; the clamped guide board was removed.  There were no details of how to plank the transom on the plans and I was unable to find any relevant details anywhere else for this type of ship. So, I planked the lower transom with parallel planks laid horizontally and ran the ends of the side planks to butt into it.  I think that is referred to as a round tuck pattern.

    The sides of the hull were planked with both 1/32” and 1/16” thicknesses of 1/16” wide basswood in scaled lengths of about 20 feet.  I started at the level of the lower deck with one row of 1/16” thickness.  Two rows of 1/16” thickness were added above this row for the bulwarks.  Two additional rows of this thickness were run below the deck shear.  The upper bulwarks were made with two rows 1/32” thick planks. Where the scupper openings were located, I filed off the bottom 1/32” of the plank width before applying the planks. The remainder of the hull planks laid was all 1/32” thickness.  The bottom row of 1/16” thick planks were blended into the 1/32” thickness below with sandpaper.
    The shear strakes and the decking were masked with Frog Tape and the inside of the bulwarks were painted with light buff deckhouse.  Once the bulwarks were dry, the tops of all the timberheads were filed and sanded even with the top of the bulwark.  Then the outside of the hull was finish sanded and given two coats of hull black to just below the waterline.  As I mentioned earlier in this I think that I should have put a bit of a bevel on the edges of the planks so they would stand out better. Once it was painted black, it was hard to discern that they actually were individual planks and not a solid hull.  It seemed like a bit of wasted effort there, but as I had never planked a hull before it was fun anyway.
     The cap rail was next.  My first attempt was made in one piece as was suggested in many of the logs on MSW.  I took a sheet of 1/16” basswood held down on the top of the bulwarks and used a pencil to run along the outside outline of the top of the bulwarks onto the sheet.   The sheet was flipped over and remarked with the overhang added. The finish width of the cap rail was then added to get the inside edge.   The inside edge of the rail was marked out and using my scroll saw I cut it just outside of the lines.  I sanded the lines down to its finish size and laid it out on the ship.  Although it turned out to be accurate, I was not happy with its appearance at all, since it looked like it was cut from a sheet, which does not make an accurate representation of the real thing.  I didn’t like the look of the basswood for the cap rail either. 
    However, since I had an accurate outline of the overall shape to work with now, I could redo it with some 1/16” thick maple strips that I ripped down on my full size garage table saw.  I decided to cut it into four approximately 20 scale foot sections on each side and one additional section across the stern.  Scarf joints were used at the joints of the sections together along the sides and a pie shaped filler piece was cut for the bow.  At the stern a simple miter joint was made with a knee piece in between.  Diagrams of the design for the joints made are shown below.

 
    Here is a photo of the joints as done on the model itself.

 

The Bruma is complete.  I've posted a set of completion photos in the kit-built ship gallery.
 
This was a relatively easy kit, which was my intention after building the Cutty Sark and laying all of those copper plates!  A few comments on the kit:
 
A number of missing small parts, none of them fatal.  I was able to go to my spare wood/parts store and improvise. There is one rigging diagram, and while the rigging isn't complex, the diagram is very hard to read.  You need to pull all the photos you can find from the internet and use them as a reference to be sure what goes where. Regards,
David

The first pic is just showing slosh wash of burnt umber as you can see I stopped at the landing light subtle is what I want then I dusted top and bottom some more and the whole plane has gone flat.The second and third pic again wings are not locked but the glass masking finally came off I need to polish the inside of the upper turret for some over-spray no biggee though.I dirtied up the front cowls flat the props and need to do more chipping on the L/wing that's the fun part with the silver underneath the edge of the blade so lightly.I hope you gents like it Kevin

Masts, booms and bowsprit are shaped and mounted, and I'm now starting on the rigging.
 
One of the detail drawings indicates that brass winches were supplied, but I can't find them anywhere, so I made them from my spare parts stock using deadeyes, filled with wood filler and painted gold, some brass parts that I think were supposed to be deck buckets, and wire.
 
Regards,
David

Hi all finished the first yard.


And before I get comments about the order I'm building this in I know it's not per instructions but hey they are pretty useless anyway.
I've added the first real sail.




I know it will get in the way of a lot of the rigging but I intend to tie it up out of the way temporarily. I know the lines from the base of the sail which go toward the stern will get in the way but I will leave them till last. 
Apart from the instructions i really like this kit (yes I know it's not an accurate depiction of the Cutty Sark)
It will still be a lovely model of a clipper ship anyway.

Thanks Samson a real help, I've made a start on the first yard .

To chill down inbetween, the direction finder received some attention:



Also, checking the few pictures of the ship I have, I suddenly realised Thatcher had the revised stern Bofors platform. Running a bit out of motivation to modify the kit-supplied platform (especially after I already put a few hours effort in it), I made an order at Shapeways and got that lil' gem:
 


I'm certain it'll look awesome once it got some paint!

Hi Chap,
Had similar issues with this Kit....
Mine were a couple of feisty Abyssinian's bent on chasing a Bush Rat that they bought in....
Started this one, but....
My A/L Kit fell out of the storage due to rat/cats....
 
Carpet, lost a lot and decided to discontinue and go with the Sergal version, albeit, the Ship Room is now firmly closed when I'm not in attendance....
 
I do now have the newer A/L version awaiting with sails.
 
So many Ships, so little time.... 🙂
 
Cheers....HOF.

Seat assembled - painted and weathered, then the belts  from the  enclosed pe  were cut off and glued into place,   then when set  I  did a couple of coats of brushed on flat coat,  then I placed the seat in the tub  and routed the rear harness  through the rear framework  and glued it in place.
 
OC.

All of the deck detail is now complete.  Pictures show bow area with capstan, life preserver containers, small tables, hatch covers, ladder, boarding walkway and stern seat.
 
That's it for the hull -- now on to the masts and rigging.
 
Regards,
David

I built the rudder and have test fitted it to the hull and I’m happy with it. I also test fitted it on the stand which looks okay. Happy with how the plain wood pedestals turned out.

I then mocked up the bits that I could. It looks like a model boat!
I replaced the original aftermarket anchor I purchased it a grapple as this seems to be what they might actually have had. And added a small barrel that I’m going to pretend contains water.

 

Quick update about the base:
I gave the top side a coat of matte varnish and will have to paint the sides as the MDF doesn’t really like any of my stains. I’ve also painted the pedestals to try and make them look a bit prettier. It also has a name plate and obviously a boat to go on yet, so once all that’s done I’m confident it will look okay.
Okay, picture time.

Hi all continuing to plod on with this



Made a start on the main mast.

Hey hey it’s SATURDAY! (And we are in lock down...)
Today I hope to finish the hull, get it mounted so I can start on the mast, sails and rigging.
The hull needs a couple more coats of blue. It’s quite dark so the next two coats will get a touch of white.

 
 

Back to work on the Bruma after a couple of weeks in Florida.
 
Finished the cabin exterior details including handrails, vents, horn and light, and fire extinguishers and life rings.  Tricky paint work on the extinguishers.
 
Regards,
David

It took me a while, but I figured this thing out.  As usual, it required getting the right tool for the job.  I chose, in this case, bourbon.  This stuff has a thousand and one uses, I swear.

The fundamental problem, I figured out, was the placement of the counter.  The instructions do say "it sits on the curved part of the L-shaped piece already glued to the plan."  The thing I didn't understand that was that the bottom edge of it needed to conform with the bottom edge of the L-shaped piece.  I had the joint between the L-shaped piece and the deadwood running down the center of the edge of the counter.  That tiny difference, well, it made all the difference.
 
I cut out the counter.
 

You can see where the counter had been glued.
 
So then I reinstalled it, higher by a little bit, and, of course, that changed the whole geometry of the stern.  I did some cutting, shaping and carving and came up with this.
 


This is a difficult spot to take a picture of, but I think you can see the difference between before and after.  Now the pinstripe lays flat against the hull all the way around the stern.

 
Dan
 

But as in the german cardforum guys started their corona-trigered spring-building, I couldn’t resist.....
 
First the flat paper:
 
 

 
Resulting in a nice curved body. Closing was a bit fiddly, but worked out OK

 
Next came the tail section. Getting it properly inside the body proved to be a bit difficult. IN the end the section matches up with the tabs, but the tail is not completely level with the body....

And the preparations for the wings: the downloadkit does not provide the skewer, but the skewer is needed to get the wings in the prober angle, and to give them some firmness, preventing them to get loose.
 

 
The wings itself were rather straightforward, although in the end not without a small problem:
Upper and underside

As the surface is quite large, and need to be glued, I placed a line to help me align both parts without having the need to adjust two quite soft, sticky surfaces.

And all parts together: the two outmost feathers are modelled as separate parts.

And there the small problem arose: bending over the underside of the wing turned out problematic: at the elbow the card tended to kink: no way to get the underside aligned with the indicated gluing area, getting the front side at the right angle and the card flat.
Ah well, perhaps I wil do it again.

 
Next the first part of the head:

Clever construction: as the bird is singing, you need a way of aligning its beak (inside and outside). This rather stiff, four-layered card is a template: it has to be glued inside the head, then the beak is cut out, its throat glued in place, and the outside modelled, building it up to the desired thickness using layers of glue. Will see how that works out.
 
Jan 
 
(to be continued)