JSGerson

Mizzen Shrouds Following a long with Mr. Antscherl, the Mizzen shrouds were next. He likes to work from the stern forward as opposed to others who work from the Bow to the stern. Because there are an odd number of Mizzen shrouds three to be exact, the foremost of them is constructed like the Burton Pendants, with a cut splice. Mr. Antscherl stated that the foremost shroud is normally served over its full length to protect it from chafing by the lower sail courses However since the Mizzen mast does not have sails spread on the cross-jack yard, it was not served over its full length. All of the shrouds are served over the center quarter of every shrouds pair’s length according to Mr. Antscherl. This was done, but unless you are looking for it and are very close to the rigging, it is almost impossible to see due to both the shroud and serving line being black in color.

It’s been a while since my last post so I suppose you were expecting a lot of progress? Meet Mr. Slower than Drying Paint. Slow, yes, but some progress. I completed the remaining Burton Pendants installed them onto their respective masts

It's amazing what I have stashed away from my research for the Conny build. I found: 1812 Model build by Ken Thomsen using Model Shipways' kit. (6 windows) Unfortunately the site where his pictures were located (Shipwright's Journal) are no longer posting them, but if one googles "constitution 'ken thomsen,'" using the image search, you can still see the images. 1812 Model at the Smithsonian (6 windows) The Revell 1:96 model was based on this

I stand corrected

I ran across this beautiful rendition of the 1812 Conny by Mark Antczak. He has eight windows!! http://www.shipmodel.com/models/constitution-old-ironsid

Thanks Fletch, I've sent a PM to Popeye2sea and now I can only hope for the best.

I placed an order to the USS Constitution Museum for some Constitution Wood and received a block 2 1/2" square x 3/4" thick for $5.50; not much to work with. How did you get such large pieces? I would love to incorporate some of the real ship's wood in my model when I start it a few years hence but with what I have, all I'll be able to do is mount the copper Constitution Medallion I also have made from her copper sheathing. There should be a new supply of wood once the new restoration gets into full swing this year, so hopefully there should be larger piece available ideally at reasonable prices.

Very nicely done!

I learn something everyday. Thanks Bill

The images were lost due to a glitch to the website some months ago and must be replaced by the person who originally posted them. In most cases that's the Build Log owner. If someone commented with an image they have to repost. I had to go through this process myself on my build log as did many others.

Per the instructions of the Mamoli Rattlesnake kit, the ship's boat was mounted on the spare Main Topsail yard and Main Topsail mast. What these boats are mounted on, on other ships I don't know because this is my first 3 masted boat build. The mast and yard fit neatly onto the gallows. How they know which spares to take on a voyage I am clueless. What if they break some other mast part or yard? Is it up to the Captain to determine what spares and how many to take? Don't know. Sorry I couldn't help you more.

Thanks for the tips. I think I will stick to strictly building boats. Making music is a lot harder than listening 8-)

I did a quick look on Google and if I understand it correctly, nut slotting files have a narrow rounded edge and smooth sides. It appears for guitar work, the square groove is to avoided. Your box joints have square slots. Is there a type of slotting file with a square edge? BTY, those files ain't cheap!

Thanks. The next thing you will have me playing the guitar itself!!

I learn something every day. I didn't even know what guitar nut slotting files were till now and now it's a must have set of tools!

Here another set of plans for the Brodie stove plus a little practicum on how to make the stove by Allan Yedlinsky. I hope these help. Ship's Stove Plans.PDF Ship's Stove - Yedlinsky.pdf

Your timing couldn't have been more perfect. I am just beginning to rig my Mamoli Rattlesnake and it uses the same nomenclature. You've made my work much easier. Thanks

Much appreciated and worth the minor wait. Now if I could only do that myself at 1:64 scale for my build!

I for one would be very interested in how you made the stave blanks. I am always interested in learning new techniques, tips, etc.

I agree with JPett with regards to the "pretty" rope coils. I didn't do it because I felt a working boat wouldn't have them. I also read that on real boats they retain moisture under them and therefore are susceptible to rot. As for gluing down the gun carriages, I did do that. The tiny ropes pull on the light weight guns and can lift them so that not all of the trucks may be on the deck. It's just more secure.

When planking, don't forget to bevel one edge otherwise you will have a gap between the planks where the hull budges out. Also if you are not painting the wood, adding some dark color to one edge (Charcoal, pencil, etc.) gives the effect of caulking between the planks.

I'm no sailor. and this is my first 3 masted rigging build so I am only going by what I read and see. According to David Antscherl's, The Fully Framed Model, Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780, Vol IV Page 46 Section 15.22 these were pendants were used with various block and tackle as a means of hoisting things before the upper masts were stepped and installed. It appears they remained in place until until such time the upper masts were removed and used to take things apart. Whether they were used in the interim I have no idea.

The first pendant I made was the Mizzen Mast’s which required served .45 mm line with thimbles at each end. The other masts will require a thicker line. Two pieces of line were served and a thimble added at one end. Then the lines were overlapped and pseudo sliced in two places to create a split in the line. Overall the finished length was 7”.

For those who have been following this build log I apologize for going slow, but these last few weeks have been even slower. Due to Thanksgiving, which for my family lasts about a week not just one meal. I visit my sister in Colonial New England, specifically the Hartford Connecticut area. She had a small gathering of only eight people. Last year it was 19 people, which was not her largest party. How she does it by herself mid you, I still haven’t figured out. In addition there have been some personal events with my 96 year old Mom in Florida who still resides at home. BTY, while I was in Conn. I got a chance to visit Old Ironsides, the US Frigate Constitution. She is due for drydock in March I think, so this was my last chance to see her before they strip her down for refurbishing for the next 3-4 years. As it turned out, they had already removed her top deck guns and all of the yard arms. More on that further on. Burton Pendants Continuing to follow David Antscherl, his next section was the making of the Burton Pendants. As he explained it: “Burton Pendants are served lines that were slipped over the mastheads prior to stepping the lower masts in full-sized practice. Blocks and tackles were then attached to them for hauling up to the tops and other items of rigging.” Neither kit plans addressed these pendants nor did Harold Hahn’s plans. However, I recently came into possession (from a fellow Rattlesnake builder) of the plans used to build the Rattlesnake now at the Smithsonian. These plans do show the pendants and they agree with Antscherl as well as Lennarth Peterson’s Rigging Period Ship Models. I learned that these pendants are more common on the bigger ships but do appear of some of the smaller ones. Since I’m the captain of this ship, I elected to add them. The plan image below is from the Smithsonian plans. While I was at the Constitution, I naturally took pictures. Because the yards had been removed, there was less congestion of the lines and low and behold, I caught a view of the Burton Pendants!

I found making those #$%#%$# stairs was a b*tch. You made it look easy. It seems to me that sanding those steps ends at a perfect 90 degree angle had to be tricky not to mention gluing them perfectly vertical. Good job!.