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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. JSGerson
    Then it was wrapped around the vertical lines horizontally half way down under the grating. The horizontal turns were supposed to equal the number of vertical turns but elected to do only two. The space was quite cramped and even with a light aimed directly in there, it was hard to tell there was any wrapping at all.
  2. JSGerson
    Using .45mm Syren Ship Model Company black miniature rope, the gammoning, was started with an eye splice and then threaded through the grating, through the gammoning hole in the stem, and back up top four times.
  3. JSGerson
    Installing the Bowsprit I had gotten as far as I could with the bowsprit and its constituent components; it was time to install bowsprit. I used epoxy glue at the base of the bowsprit and slid it into place.
  4. JSGerson
    My skills? I have never done this stuff before! I'm learning as I am going which is why I'm moving as slow as I am. I just taking one step at a time, trying to make as few errors and do-overs as I can, but no matter how I try, I make a bunch of them...I just don't post most of them 8-)
  5. JSGerson
    Sorry for the delay in responding but I was at the NRG Conference in St. Louis last week and just got back today (19 Oct 14). Trying to respond to email on an iphone is hard on the eyes. I don't know how those young kids do it. So onto your question. I had a great time by the way. I can't take credit for the method I showed. I am following Blue Ensign as he builds the HMS Pegasus (starting at comment 696 for the foot ropes) who by the way credits Gil Middleton for the pseudo (my term) splice. See, we all help each other. See if Blue Ensign's more detailed descriptions help. If you still have questions, please feel free to ask me again.
  6. JSGerson
    Spritsail Yard and the Spritsail Topsail Yard
  7. JSGerson
    I went through the same loss of images problem as well. If any of the photos were posted by a commentator, not yourself, then they must re-post. I still have images missing because the originator of the images never re-posted. BTY, on page 28, comment 417, two images are still missing. I really have learned an awful lot from your blog and always look forward towards your next installment!. Jon
  8. JSGerson
    After everything had dried and the excess lines trimmed, the music wire was removed leaving four hanging stirrups perfectly vertical, properly spaced, and horizontally even. The foot rope had a pseudo splice made at one end to slip on the outer end of the yard. Once the foot ropes were threaded through the loops using a needle threader, the inner end was wrapped around the yard itself like the stirrups.
  9. JSGerson
    Once I had four stirrups made and wrapped around the spritsail yard in the proper position, I inserted a music wire which had the same diameter as the eyelet through the stirrup loops and made sure everything was level and even. I used a clothes pin to add some weight to the wire to keep the stirrups taut. The wrappings around the yard were then glued into place and the vertical lines were “painted” with diluted PVA glue to stiffen them up.
  10. JSGerson
    The methods work well to add a loop splice to an eyelet or in this case just an open loop. To create the open loop, I used the long end wire of an eyelet. When completed, the loop was slid off leaving an open loop.
  11. JSGerson
    After doing a bit of research (thank you Blue Ensign and Gil Middleton) as to how to make the stirrups and foot ropes, I came across (for lack of a better term) the Micro Pseudo Splice. I looked at a number of builders’ methods and this seems to be the best (to me at least). Because of the small scale, making a real splice is neigh impossible and making it look to scale. This method is real simple (because even I could do it) and the results are clean. I drew up the method as shown below.
  12. JSGerson
    I've discovered another method for applying the "caulking" paper to the planks. Start with a sheet of wood the thickness of the required planks width and veneer a sheet of paper (your choice of color) on top of it. Then slice planks to the width of the thickness of the desired plank with a Byrnes Saw (or similar). When the strips of wood are rotated 90 degrees, the paper/caulking will now on the vertical edge. No more applying paper to individual pieces of wood; dozens of planks can be made at a time.
  13. JSGerson
    The spritsail yard has rings on it for the guy pendants. Actually they are thimbles on a metal band that wraps around the yard. To simulate this, the metal band is simple thin strip of paper cut from some plain copier paper and colored black with a Sharpie pen. The eyelets that came with the Mamoli kit are 3 mm f which I thought were way out of scale so I used ones which were about 1.5 mm to make the thimbles.
  14. JSGerson
    A piece of the tubing was then cut off from the stock material about the same thickness as the seized line. Using tools I bought for making jewelry, I used a bead reamer to flare out the inside hole of the brass “donut” on each side and filed a groove around the outside edge to hold the line in place. Then it was just a matter of placing it inside the line loop. It was at this point I realized I now had a problem as how was I going to get it on the yard. This component should have been made and installed before the cleats were glued into place. Then the line would have been formed into a circle with a pseudo splice. The circle would have been cinched and seized to form a figure 8 with a smaller loop on top for the thimble. The larger loop would then slide onto the yard. Of course the dimensions of the initial circle would have had to been dead on. But I didn’t do it that way. Instead I had to glue in increments first to put it into position and then to wrap the two open ends around the back to cut them to size so that they would butt up to each other. Then I glued them down. Maybe the way I did do it was easier, I don’t know.
  15. JSGerson
    The bowsprit yard has a thimble spliced loop sling (technical term right?) Actually depending on what source you are looking at, there is a thimble or not. I chose to use one. Again, the line was served and then one end of the served line was wrapped around a stock 3/32” brass tube to from the loop and seizing to the right size.
  16. JSGerson
    I am curious as to how you added the namesake to the stern. It looks like you used my method or a modification of it. Make a plaque Paint it Apply a homemade decal (in my case) or rub on letters (transfers) Seal the plaque Place the plaque on the model
  17. JSGerson
    Beautiful as always. How do you maintain the proper angle so that you end up with a nice octagon cross section? I mark a cross on the ends so I know how much to rotate the wood, but mine always seem to come out lop sided and then I have adjust with sanding.
  18. JSGerson
    Knowing that the bowsprit and the jib boom had yards slung from them and therefore need slings made, the spritsail yard and the spritsail topsail yard were constructed. Again this is following the philosophy of making everything I can off-ship before stuff is nailed down, as it were.
  19. JSGerson
    Something wasn’t right – it was too cluttered. I didn’t like the two hearts which were on either side of the bowsprit. I had made them separately. Looking closely at the drawings and books again, it appears the hearts were both on one same sling. The hearts were removed and a new double heart sling was fashioned.
  20. JSGerson
    It was again time to dry fit all the components so far. But before I did that I added some eyelets, made holes for additional future eyelets and added blocks to the installed eyelets on the bowsprit cap. Then I assembled them all together.
  21. JSGerson
    There are a number of well made, sturdy 16" scroll saws out there. That's what I'd get, will get in time. It's an invaluable must have tool.
  22. JSGerson
    Ken - Funny you should ask about the scroll saw. I have a Dremel Deluxe Moto-Shop 15" scroll saw, with attachments for a flex shaft, and disk sander. I purchased it in the late 70s. It still works as good as the day I got it but that is not saying too much. The problem is that it vibrates like crazy. The disk sander doesn't hold the sanding disks very flat (uses a wide center machine screw), and the flex shaft is not all that smooth in its operation. It's a neat design and should have been perfect for a hobbyist, but it is not a true precision machine. It is what I have so I make do. One of these days I would like to replace it and oh yeah get a mini lathe/milling machine as well when I'm feeling flush...very flush.
  23. JSGerson
    They are the same scale, 1:64. The reason I chose the Mamoli kit was that I planned to (am still am) following Robert Hunt's Practicum (some what now) which he based on the Mamoli kit. He claimed you could also use the MS kit with some minor modifications. I started this project in late 2009, so its been 5 years and as you can see, I still have as ways to go. Back then, I knew nothing and I mean NOTHING about building this type of model which was the reason I was following the Practicum. At that time, I didn't even know Model Expo existed! So I went to ebay and found the kit, bid, and won the auction for about $250 (if I remember right). I didn't even comparison shop. I don't know how the two compare quality wise since I have never seen the Model Shipways version. Due to comments on my log and others, I found that a lot of builders purchased just the Model Shipways plans which give you a second way of looking at things. Some details are explained different or better than the other. So I ended up with three set of plans, the two kits plus Harold Hahn's plans which the Practicum uses to supplement the Mamoli kit plans. A lot of the hardware the Mamoli kit provided, I didn't use: I got a replacement wood supply, I scratch built many of the items (cannon carriages, the bittle, lower deck partitions, stern carvings, etc. I don't know what the MS kit provided or didn't. The biggest thing I didn't like about the Mamoli kit was that all of the instructions were printed on the 11 sheets of plans in fine hard to read print. Since I didn't follow those instructions for the most part, it made no difference. If I had to, I would have transcribed them on a word processor and printed them out. Both kits provide certain how-to details and ignore others. The MS kit provides four sheets of plans and booklet of instructions (which you can download). I couldn't of done it without the Practicum. Confused yet? Jon
  24. JSGerson
    Ken, as far as I know, there is only one model of the Byrnes Table Saw. There are however two different voltages, I have the 120V for use in the USA as opposed to the 230V. Over the years I have purchased all of the bells and whistles for the saw (different blades, both micrometer stops, fence extensions, and even the tilt table, etc.). I haven't used the tilt table yet for a real project. I have also purchased the draw plate which is invaluable for making tree nails and the dimension sander. I would have purchased the disc sander but I already had one. The Byrnes rope walk is another matter. Until I play with my Model Expo ropewalk to make quality rope and determine it is worth the effort as opposed to buying it from Syren Ship Model Co. which makes top notch rope, that fantastic machine of his is on hold. I would have to have a need from a tremenous amount of miniature rope to justify the cost. As you may surmise, I am a tremendous fan of Jim Brynes and his company. As far as the other subject, the crow's feet, I look forward to rigging that. I am told that it really is not that difficult to make. That's still down the road a bit. I have yet to install any mast, and that rigging is on the third level. Jon
  25. JSGerson
    The fore preventer wasn’t measured as it was fitted to the collar. A sufficient length of 0.63mm served line was created. A loop was made at one end and then wrapped around the collar to determine where the second end loop would be constructed and therefore determine the required line length. Once the second end loop was made, the line was again wrapped around the collar and lashed at four points. The double lashing was based on Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson.

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