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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. The mouse was built up into cone shape on the sizing machine and held in shape with some CA glue.
  2. Mizzen Stay Working from inside to outside, the Mizzen Stay was next and it required a mouse. I saw a number of ways to construct this item. One was making a wooden cone, a pseudo mouse, and staining it black, another was going a step further and sizing the black cone, another method was building up the line with sizing to create the mouse, and final actually weaving a mouse on a jig. Since the stay had to be sized from the mouse all the way to the end loop, and due to the relatively small diameter of the stay and subsequently its mouse, I chose to build up the sizing to create the mouse. A measurement was taken to determine the location of the mouse and marked on the line with a light piece of thread tied to the appropriate mouse position.
  3. It was brought to my attention that the single shroud (cut-splice) should have been placed in the most aft position. This mistake was not corrected. It would have meant dismantling and re-installing all of the rigging for something that was almost impossible to see. If you looked closely you may have noticed that the lashings of the shrouds were made with a dark brown thread. This was done for two reasons. First when I tried using black thread on the black shroud, I couldn’t see what I was doing and therefore was doing a lousy job. My eyes are not the greatest. I’ve been wearing glasses since I was seven and now I need tri-focals and a clip-on eye loupe. The second reason was even if I did a good job, nobody would be able to see it. If that was the case why bother? Hence, a slight lighter thread but still dark enough solved both problems. Also, if you have microscopic vision, you may notice that I painted the bitter ends chocolate brown to simulate leather protective caps.
  4. My skills in photography are a little more sharper than my modeling skills. so I have a knack for hiding a lot of flaws that are a bit more obvious if you were to see the model in person. (In the distant past I've won a few photo contests and have a couple of magazine covers.) That being said, I figure by the time I'm ready to start the Connie, I should be worthy of the task.
  5. Blue Ensign - Thank you very much! Coming from you is quite a complement. I've been following your Pegasus build with great interest and have learned a lot stuff from you.
  6. Thanks for the complements, flattery will get you everything. Yeah, I figure those horizontal bars plus the ratlines will straighten everything out once they are installed later on. It just seems that no matter what I want to do, I have to do something else first (one of Murphy's Laws).
  7. I'll be initially following Robert Hunt's practicum, and supplement it with Modeler12's build log plus another dozen or so build logs I'll also be checking. I've got them all copied so I'll always have access to them even if the unthinkable happens...again and the stuff is wiped out. As for kit bashing or even what time period the model will represent is still undetermined as I want to finish my first POB build, Rattlesnake. Even though the Connie is a smaller scale at 1:76 compared to the Rattlesnake 1:64, it's physically twice as big and has a whole lot more detail. I need to get my skills worthy of the task. At the rate I'm going, paint drys faster so it will be a few years yet.
  8. I've been quietly following your build (among others) almost from your first post last March (2014) because I plan to start building my own Connie in the next few years. Today I looked back at your opening statements because I forgot what era your model was to be built to. It was then I realized that I knew of a link to a site where model builder Mark Antczak had built a 1797 version of the Constitution. Not knowing if you know this site I present it now just in cause you didn't: ShipModel.com Specifically: http://www.shipmodel.com/models/constitution-old-ironsid Jon
  9. Texxn5: Are these what you are looking for? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGu2cIu8lSE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb-FA3P6PBk Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV4WA2vCqD8 Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7V_uJjoJEo Part 3
  10. Is this what you are looking for? https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Alexey+Domanoff
  11. The Bearding Line is the curved dotted line on the hull which curves up the stern in the above scan of the plans (Plate 4). I had a whole lot of trepidation when I cut the stem off. There was no going back once it was done. It looks like you did a neat job on its replacement. I had a devil of time making the piece fit tight. Jon
  12. Thanks for the praise. It must be like watching paint dry at the pace that I'm going so I really appreciate it. Rigging is totally new to me. I have to understand the whys and hows before I do anything. I can sit and research or contemplate my naval for hours before I do anything; and that just might be tying a knot. 8-) Jon
  13. The was a little twisting from the lashing but hopefully, that will get straightened out when the ratlines get installed later on.
  14. Following Mr. Lennarth Petersson’s Rigging Period Ship Models the deadeyes were lashed in the manner described. The image below is the Port side while the one above is the Starboard.
  15. The first shroud in the group to be installed was the most forward one, the one made with the cut splice. To ensure that the deadeye at each end were on the same and proper height, two identical wires were cut and formed into a shallow U-shape, one for each end of the shroud. First one side had the deadeye attached and the U-shape wire attached. Then pulling the line taught the height of the other side was measured and the deadeye attached. The other U-shape held it in place. If the line remained taught with the wires, I was ready to lash the deadeyes.
  16. Also made long ago was the Quarter Deck Mizzen Mast Wedge which was installed into final position with the Mizzen Mast. The mizzen shrouds were now ready to be installed.
  17. At this point I decided it was best if I installed the Mizzen Mast Top’s railing. The parts had been made earlier as documented in this build log.
  18. Jay, You need to look at the link you provided for more details about silver soldering. A number of images are missing.
  19. I found this part fun to do and really tried to put in a lot of detail. It turns out a lot of that detail (window "glass," fancy paneling, etc) get lost once all the decks are finished and furnished. If I were to do it again, yeah I'd do it again because that's me. What I'm trying to say is don't get hung up on stuff that won't get seen if you have problems with it. I my case it was the window "glass" frames. The "glass" really wasn't needed because nobody could see it which would have made the window framing much easier. (See my log for the details).
  20. Jay: I have heard a lot about Mr. Hunt both good and bad, He is an "interesting" character. It's funny that you stated that he doesn't accept alternative ideas. In his Rattlesnake practicum, he did state that if you find a better way of doing something, go ahead and do it that way. So maybe he received so much "helpful" criticism, he just got pissed off because they didn't appreciate his efforts - who knows? Personally, I haven't had much dealings with him other than a few questions I posed which were answered decently, so I can't fault him. Your experience was obviously different than mine. I will take the good he has to offer and ignore the crap. This is no one right way of doing something and this forum proves it. I look forward to your completed Suggestion List as I know it will be helpful to all of us. Jon
  21. I am also using Mr. Hunt's practicum, in my case for the Rattlesnake and would not have even considered building it if it were not for Mr. Hunt's instructions. Like you, I have learned a lot. As an out right beginner in this area of model building, it was invaluable. To a more experienced builder maybe not so much. Yes there are deficiencies, omissions, errors, etc., but like all, nobody is perfect. Would I buy his practicum again, not only yes but I already did. I got lucky; a few years ago Mr. Hunt ran a short term sale. He offered ALL of his practicums for one total price of under $200 (I can't remember exactly). Since I wanted to build the Conny, I jumped at the chance and got them all. They make for a nice reference library.
  22. Out of curiosity I noticed that the design of your kit box is slightly different than mine. How old is the kit? Also, did you know that Mamoli is out of business due to a fire at their factory? How did you get HobbyMills' wood supplement? It was my understanding that Jeff Hayes and Robert Hunt had a falling out and that he no longer supplies the wood package. Jon
  23. It's nice to see another Bob Hunt's Rattlesnake kit basher. I've been working on mine for about 4-5 years now, I'm real slow as this is my first POB. A word of caution. Mr. Hunt is human and like all humans, is prone to make mistakes. There are a just a few in the beginning chapters but more in the later ones. It seems he was building 3 other models at the same time as the Rattler each with deadlines. By the time I reached Chapter 9 he was skipping steps, cutting corners, and reducing details. In some case he only constructed items on one side of the model. In the rigging chapters he only showed examples and walked through the Mamoli instructions as he never actually rigged his model. All that being said, I could not have have built my model without his practicum. Dry fit everything, check dimensions, and read ahead to see how things fit together. All my triumphs and heartbreaks are documented in my build log. But don't forget to read everybody else's build log to see how they coped and build a library of reference material. Good Luck, and Happy Building! Jon
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