HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING!
×
72Nova
-
Posts
658 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by 72Nova
-
Those 2 pictures show a lot, thanks Peter. The 2nd picture shows a block attached to either the deck or inside of the bulwark?, the one with the dotted line. Guess I'll have to purchase the Vasa 2 book to find out 😄 The color scheme is starting to take shape, I fabricated a block with 3 sheaves that sits into the railing and started mocking up the gun port lid ropes, for this I'm using 100wt bobbin thread that looks to be the perfect scale. Thanks for looking. Michael D. -
She looks lovely Marc!👍 Curious as to what blades you use? Michael D.
- 2,696 replies
-
- 7
-
-
-
- heller
- soleil royal
- (and 9 more)
-
I've relocated the kevel and hole in the bulwark and started the painting on the bulwarks and railing, this is proving to be a bit more difficult as I need to use a finer tipped brush, it might be a tad darker than I'd like at the moment and I can fine tune the outer railing when I start the hull with a larger squared ended brush but is looking okay. Michael D.
-
So are you saying Peter I should move the kevel forward and eliminate the sheave and just have a hole aft the kevel? Michael D.
-
I do hope they will be available soon but in the meantime, I can keep busy doing other mods. So this is what I've come up with after removing the pin rail, I fashioned a kevel as close to scale as possible given the scale I'm working with, I cut in a sheave for the .45mm sheet line and mocked up the routing, this should suffice? Michael D.
-
Thank you for pointing that out Peter, very much appreciated! Honestly I've been scratching my head trying to figure out where the main sheet would've been tied off at as what limited literature I have and all the models I have seen show the main sheet line passing through the side underneath the Qtr deck and therefore hidden. The pin rail removal is an easy fix and I will place a kevel just aft of that gun port. Hopefully those plans would include rigging/ belaying points? but may not be available by the time I'm ready to start rigging as all I have to go by is R.C Anderson and how other modellers have rigged there's. Michael D.
-
Hi Waldemar, What I meant is after I carved out the figures in the trailboard and mated up the hull halves, they do not line up and the span on the railings on the port side are a bit shorter than the starboard side. Looking at the photos maybe my model is closer to the real ship then I thought!😀. Reminds me the time when I opened up a 2 dial cannonball safe from the 1800's and disassembled it for repairs, upon assembly I discovered you could not interchange the spindles along with other misc parts, obviously each part was hand built, thanks for sharing. Thanks for the FYI Peter, I wasn't aware. I ended up harvesting an upper gunport lid to make the modification. Michael D.
-
Thanks Peter, I totally forgot about the scupper and cabin window but never noticed the smaller gunport, so here's the mods I made. Thanks Marc, it's a shame the two sides do not line up exactly, pretty far off actually. Michael D.
-
A crowning moment in that the modifications to the starboard side of the hull are completed, railings, all necessary kevels, pin rails etc. I had to modify the chesstree to accept the main course tack line. Once I complete the port side, both sides will be detailed sanded, and the upper bulwarks and inside of the beakhead will be painted before assembly. Michael D.
-
Thanks guy's, after a little more reading, R.C Anderson does mention that when the bowsprit is centered the stay collar passed around both sides of the mast, particularly Dutch ships, there were holes in the deck and beakhead bulkhead and then to the bowsprit, that makes sense to me but looking at some of the museum photos I do not see any evidence of a hole in the beakhead bulkhead and the wood looks to be original in that area of the ship so I'll rig the stay where it passes over the top of the bulkhead. Starboard railings are just about done along with the Kevels, far from perfect but will look good in the end. Michael D.
-
Hi Jan, A few things led me to this decision, first In Landstrom's book the Vasa he mentions discussions regarding this very detail and this was the practice in some Dutch ships at the time and shows an illustration in the book of the arrangement that I ultimately followed. Here's a picture of the 1:10 model at the museum showing the same arrangement and if you look closely you'll see the collar pass beyond fore mast leading into the deck...no cleat or evidence of it being made fast to the base of the mast and oddly enough in the R.C Anderson book he makes no mention of this method but does show an illustration of how they rigged it on the real ship, also in the link you posted, again if look closely at the diorama picture you'll also see the main stay collar does not extend to the base of the bowsprit, so go figure. Michael D.
-
As fiddly as these railings are they are starting to take shape and will need to be built in place prior to gluing up the hull. I mocked up the main stay collar and beefed up the fore mast mounting by adding brass rod and extending the styrene base further into the deck. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
-
Ian the Revell kit would've been by far the best choice, all the mods I've done so far are included in the newer Revell version but trying to find is another matter, I think there's just one on ebay for like $125 plus shipping. As always thanks for the likes/compliments. Michael D.
-
I started fabricating the pin rails and there are 6 total, at the Qtr deck and beakhead, the rest will be integrated into the new railings. I used .030"x.100" styrene and 24g copper wire, I dipped the end of the wire in medium ca glue and hung upside down a few minutes to form the bulbous end, It's looking pretty darn good to my eye. As always thanks for looking. Michael D.
-
I was thinking along those same lines Marc. I redid all the scuppers as the supplied holes were much too big and completed the modifications to what gun ports I chose to open up using 0.26mm styrene. Up next the port side Qtr galleries and deck preparation for the wood deck which is something I do not normally do but this deck as cast is hideous. Michael D.
-
Exactly Marc, I'll build these with a base wider then the existing railing so when installed will have a slight overhang on each side somewhat like the original. Another issue I face is fabricating and attaching the necessary pin rails, belaying pins, cleats etc required to the bulwarks before gluing up hull. Michael D.
-
A step often overlooked by many that makes a huge difference in the finish product....drives me nuts!!!. I like to use as much of the original parts as possible, with a little tweaking here and there can be made to look very convincing. Great work Jeff.👍 Michael D
-
Thank you gentlemen. With the hull sanding/detailing just about complete I decided to add a bit more mods to the outer bulwarks, specifically adding additional material at the base of the railings to give it more definition and some HO Scale 0.56mm x 0.56mm styrene worked perfect, while I'm not able to replicate every detail of the real ship to this build given the scale, this mod is rather easy. The main sheet blocks are fabricated and installed along with adding the poop deck cannon decorative trim. For this I used sculpy clay and made an impression, baked it for 12 minutes to create a mold, then simply pressing more clay into the mold, removing it, baking it and then trim the excess this is the final result! not too bad. As you can see I'll be displaying her with some of the gun ports closed. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
-
I would think what you used on your Victory would be appropriate. 5mm on fore and main channels, 4mm on mizen channels, 3.5mm on fore and main tops and 2.5mm on mizen should fit the bill Bill😀 Michael D.
- 1,508 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Le Soleil Royal
- Heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Thank you Dave, I've been checking out your builds and they are very nice indeed👍. One of these days I'll work up enough courage to tackle a wood kit. Michael D.
-
Figured it out, just hit the backspace button🙄 Michael D.
-
Thank you GrandpaPhil, was quite the journey. Michael D.
- 222 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- reale de france
- heller
- (and 1 more)
-
Robert I saw that after the fact, when I enable show signatures in account settings this is what I have in my signature now and want to delete it and just show a simple link not a couple of billboards...lol. Michael D.
-
I've attempted to add past and current build links to my signature but screwed up... how do I go about deleting it?, I do not see an option. Just looking for a simple link without pictures, any help would be much appreciated. Michael D.
Our Emblem ®
