foxy
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Moving on from the yard loops, started thinking on the blocks with this type of loop needed. So now working diff size blocks with loops. Also doing sheaves for the main and foremasts. Using brass sheave and .020 rope. To give this effect, which will hold ropes later. Frank -
Been experimenting with diff size rope/thread to make loops. There are lots of these loop rings. The smallest rope from Syren seems to be the ticket here. Needing two each end of the sprityard made me think on this problem. Just tied around a pin and glued, once set it holds its shape and you just fix to the yard etc. Will need loads of these later in the build. Frank
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Seems from another source that the Mizzen top has just a double gaff block beneath on this ship, so the six holes will be filled in on the Heller mizzen top. Frank
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Well moved on a touch with the blocks etc. As promised have cleaned up and added blocks to the lookout tops, not sure if the Mizzen mast has these blocks beneath, cannot find any ref to them in my books. But the Heller kit has three holes each side for them. Also added the Syen double blocks to the main and fore yards. Also added the Bluejackets white metal twin blocks. More later. Frank
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Great work there Evan on the wheels. I will be borrowing your method for my build. Am using the HB brass barrels for the 24 Pdrs but will need to cut down the trucks. Thanks for showing. Frank
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Great idea Rich. Will be going down the same lines me self, but with Dafis etched parts. Thanks for showing. Frank
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Nice work and very clean lines,' like it'. Keep it coming. Frank
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Good to have a break keith, gives the grey cells a little peace Well working on the siren blocks still, with the main and foremast . First its the Jeer blocks =, all siren products for this part. Two and three hole config. Then its the two and one hole blocks that hang underneath the tops. Some cleaning up to do later. Frank
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Ok back on board again. Having gathered some very fine blocks etc. These from Syren models. Plus working in a new location,(warmer as winter comes), so all these items will keep me busy over the festive season. The parts on the right are white metal from Blue Jacket, have roped all 16 for later fixing to the spars. Working on the figures too. These are a very nice addition and are in kit form, will bee needing a few of these later. They are again from Syren models, and with a little care can be made to work.
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Offended we might be as builders of model ships. A market there might be, but time will tell if these sell. I think most of us build these ships(accurately) for our own pleasure. So I can see the objection. but its the enjoyment of building that is Important. Happy modelling folks. foxy
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
foxy replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
You have nothing to be sorry about. Its lovely work. just pointing out how you could make it easier and line up ok. But its your build and if its painted the same as the tile's then that's fine. Frank -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
foxy replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I believe the copper plates go all around the bow section, and maybe you should fold around and then continue the strait line to the stern. If you stagger them at the front of the bow end, then you will get the correct join effect down the sides of the hull. Hope this helps. foxy -
That's a fine specimen you have there Daniel. I recon that waist height from chimney to floor would be about right for 1/100 scale. You posting that to some one with all that writing on!!!!!. Frank
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Well Bill. If your going to secure some ropes to the belaying pins, then best me thinks is to place them before, so you have an idea where to place ropes come rigging. But then you might want to secure ropes and belaying pins at the same time. But for me I would go with the first choice, gives time for belaying pins to fix. Frank
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Its a mobile furnise to repair metal parts and has a bellows beneath to heat metal. A small anvil also used to repair. Nice touch Daniel. did you make this yourself. If so what's the measurements please,' thinking a head on the upper deck for more detail'. Frank
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Me nether, vandalism I call it. Glad its plastic and not wood, but interesting prospect. As usual you surprise us at every turn Daniel. Good luck and plenty of pointers in your build, but this is one I will not be following. Frank
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The right one must be still loose and hanging by a thread, so the witch is casting her spell methinks. Lovely work as usual Daniel shipmate. Frank
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Yes one of the best informative books for this ship, plus Anatomy of Victory. These two books help for all aspects of this ship. 'Now time to go back to sleep' Frank
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I see you have some good plans for this part of the work, that should make life easier me thinks. Looking forward to more instalments. Frank
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Very nice and interesting story on the cannon for the Connie Evan. As for getting Daniel to maybe make some etching for the cannon and maybe other parts of this ship, that's a hope I to have. Great work shipmate, watching with great interest. Frank
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Have you thought of fishing weights, they come in all sizes. Can be halved if you do not want to make wells for them, they also come in mentalic colour, just like cannon balls. Something like this. Just a thought. Frank
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'Wow#. That's not how I thought the cannon balls were stored on ship for ready use, but can see the idea, much safer than the way other ships held there's. Thanks George or should I call you Glakie . Frank
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There for strength Also to keep the planking together. Other as Bill has said very nicely. Frank
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Love your salty hammocks Rich . Great work so far and watching with interest. Those tops look good. Frank
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Still to do this, so thanks for showing Daniel . Great to see you back on deck again with your ship. I have been trying to find some Information on the side ports. I believe as I think you do that there must have been a cover of some sort for bad weather and in action. I have seen on the real Victory, a canvas door that rolls up and seized with ropes. Also it protrudes out to let any rain/water deflect back into the sea. Again On the Victory there are partitions that hinge up to the beams, this also could have been the method for securing the side port entrance's. Again lovely detail and thanks for showing the way. Frank
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