rcmdrvr

I have not posted for a few days but work has continued.  I spent quite several nights filling holes and cracks and sanding the hull.  After the first round of filling and sanding; I applied a clear, acrylic sealer and let it dry.  This seemed to "stiffen" the hull planks and make it easier to fill the smaller cracks and holes.  Next I primed the hull, gave it a final sanding with 320 grit and marked the waterline.  While I admire the copper bottom that SalD applied; I decided to go with a hull red paint that was included with the kit combo package from Model Expo.  I carefully masked off the water line using Tamiya flexible masking tape and brushed on the Model Expo paint.  It is quite "creamy" but I decided not to thin.  It went on smoothly and flowed well.  I was happy with the finish.  I also primed and gave a single coat of white to the inner bulwarks and then stopped.   I decided that I would wait until the decking was installed before completing painting the bulwarks.
     Next came construction of the exterior hull pieces that will make up the lower and upper paddlewheels.  For the first time I ran into some difficulty with understanding the instruction booklet.  I came up with a few questions regarding positioning of various parts that the photos just did not do justice.  I looked at the build logs of a couple of Harriet Lanes in this forum and they were quite helpful.  Being able to look at other builds of your current build is a HUGE help.   I also deviated from the recommended paint scheme of the lower paddlewheels.  The booklet and kit photos call for the entire structure to be painted black.  I decided to paint the wheels red and the paddles brown to simulate a natural wood finish.  Not scale; but I like the way the paddlewheels stand out from the hull.
     With the lower paddlewheels installed; I began work on the deck.  This task was both easier and more difficult that I expected.  A lot of very careful fitting and shaving is required.  This was the first time I ran into a kit piece that did not fit well.  I wish Model Shipways had made the decking pieces a bit oversized and let me do the fitting.  Once the decking was installed I ran a strip at the bottom of the bulwarks to "hide" the gaps that had appeared.  Not perfect; but I am satisfied.  The last step was to give the bulwarks a final sanding and then several coats of white paint.  Quite a bit of masking is required.
     I have kind of hit a milestone.  The hull and main decking is complete.  From here forward most everything else I build will be built above the deck.
 

I have not posted for a few days but work has continued.  I spent quite several nights filling holes and cracks and sanding the hull.  After the first round of filling and sanding; I applied a clear, acrylic sealer and let it dry.  This seemed to "stiffen" the hull planks and make it easier to fill the smaller cracks and holes.  Next I primed the hull, gave it a final sanding with 320 grit and marked the waterline.  While I admire the copper bottom that SalD applied; I decided to go with a hull red paint that was included with the kit combo package from Model Expo.  I carefully masked off the water line using Tamiya flexible masking tape and brushed on the Model Expo paint.  It is quite "creamy" but I decided not to thin.  It went on smoothly and flowed well.  I was happy with the finish.  I also primed and gave a single coat of white to the inner bulwarks and then stopped.   I decided that I would wait until the decking was installed before completing painting the bulwarks.
     Next came construction of the exterior hull pieces that will make up the lower and upper paddlewheels.  For the first time I ran into some difficulty with understanding the instruction booklet.  I came up with a few questions regarding positioning of various parts that the photos just did not do justice.  I looked at the build logs of a couple of Harriet Lanes in this forum and they were quite helpful.  Being able to look at other builds of your current build is a HUGE help.   I also deviated from the recommended paint scheme of the lower paddlewheels.  The booklet and kit photos call for the entire structure to be painted black.  I decided to paint the wheels red and the paddles brown to simulate a natural wood finish.  Not scale; but I like the way the paddlewheels stand out from the hull.
     With the lower paddlewheels installed; I began work on the deck.  This task was both easier and more difficult that I expected.  A lot of very careful fitting and shaving is required.  This was the first time I ran into a kit piece that did not fit well.  I wish Model Shipways had made the decking pieces a bit oversized and let me do the fitting.  Once the decking was installed I ran a strip at the bottom of the bulwarks to "hide" the gaps that had appeared.  Not perfect; but I am satisfied.  The last step was to give the bulwarks a final sanding and then several coats of white paint.  Quite a bit of masking is required.
     I have kind of hit a milestone.  The hull and main decking is complete.  From here forward most everything else I build will be built above the deck.
 

Work continues.  Thought I would post a few photos of the planking process.  The planking in this kit is laser cut on 1/32" sheet.  This really cuts down on the cutting, fitting and shaping.  Each strake (there are 10) consists of 3 pieces (fore, aft and center).  Generally the fore and aft pieces require soaking in water before fitting on the hull.  I used a 1" diameter PVC pipe, plugged at one end, tipped on end (vertical) and filled with water.   Just drop each planking piece into the tube to soak.  Worked well.  I soaked the fore and aft pieces for about 10 minutes before fitting and gluing to the hull.  I used CA for the adhesive.  I did have a bit of trouble with the some of the planking bowing between the frames.  I tried steaming or adding a reinforcing piece behind the bows.  This worked most of the time but there are still areas that are slightly bowed.  Hopefully this will not be too conspicuous.
 
The next step was to cover the planked hull with spackling paste and sand, sand, sand.  I used spackling paste because it is inexpensive and sands easily.  Next step, plank the inner bulwark.  This went very easily until I reached the stern where the curve is quite severe.  The provided pieces (again, 1/32" sheet) were soaked about 20 minutes and then carefully bent around the curve.  I did not use heat, just slow bending by pressing the pieces against the bulwark.  Some triming at each end was required.  I cemented these pieces by brushing alphic resin (wood glue) on the piece.
 
  The following photos are of the hull during the planking process, the first round of spacking and sanding and fitting of the inner bulwark planking:
 
 

I like the look of your coppered hull but I also like the look of the painted hull that is on the cover of the box.  I am not sure if I want to follow in your footsteps and copper the hull or paint........decisions, decisions, decisions.  I am following your build as you are doing a great job as a guide; keep up the good work!

Nice model.  Your paint work is very good.

I have not posted for a few days but work has continued.  I spent quite several nights filling holes and cracks and sanding the hull.  After the first round of filling and sanding; I applied a clear, acrylic sealer and let it dry.  This seemed to "stiffen" the hull planks and make it easier to fill the smaller cracks and holes.  Next I primed the hull, gave it a final sanding with 320 grit and marked the waterline.  While I admire the copper bottom that SalD applied; I decided to go with a hull red paint that was included with the kit combo package from Model Expo.  I carefully masked off the water line using Tamiya flexible masking tape and brushed on the Model Expo paint.  It is quite "creamy" but I decided not to thin.  It went on smoothly and flowed well.  I was happy with the finish.  I also primed and gave a single coat of white to the inner bulwarks and then stopped.   I decided that I would wait until the decking was installed before completing painting the bulwarks.
     Next came construction of the exterior hull pieces that will make up the lower and upper paddlewheels.  For the first time I ran into some difficulty with understanding the instruction booklet.  I came up with a few questions regarding positioning of various parts that the photos just did not do justice.  I looked at the build logs of a couple of Harriet Lanes in this forum and they were quite helpful.  Being able to look at other builds of your current build is a HUGE help.   I also deviated from the recommended paint scheme of the lower paddlewheels.  The booklet and kit photos call for the entire structure to be painted black.  I decided to paint the wheels red and the paddles brown to simulate a natural wood finish.  Not scale; but I like the way the paddlewheels stand out from the hull.
     With the lower paddlewheels installed; I began work on the deck.  This task was both easier and more difficult that I expected.  A lot of very careful fitting and shaving is required.  This was the first time I ran into a kit piece that did not fit well.  I wish Model Shipways had made the decking pieces a bit oversized and let me do the fitting.  Once the decking was installed I ran a strip at the bottom of the bulwarks to "hide" the gaps that had appeared.  Not perfect; but I am satisfied.  The last step was to give the bulwarks a final sanding and then several coats of white paint.  Quite a bit of masking is required.
     I have kind of hit a milestone.  The hull and main decking is complete.  From here forward most everything else I build will be built above the deck.
 

I have not posted for a few days but work has continued.  I spent quite several nights filling holes and cracks and sanding the hull.  After the first round of filling and sanding; I applied a clear, acrylic sealer and let it dry.  This seemed to "stiffen" the hull planks and make it easier to fill the smaller cracks and holes.  Next I primed the hull, gave it a final sanding with 320 grit and marked the waterline.  While I admire the copper bottom that SalD applied; I decided to go with a hull red paint that was included with the kit combo package from Model Expo.  I carefully masked off the water line using Tamiya flexible masking tape and brushed on the Model Expo paint.  It is quite "creamy" but I decided not to thin.  It went on smoothly and flowed well.  I was happy with the finish.  I also primed and gave a single coat of white to the inner bulwarks and then stopped.   I decided that I would wait until the decking was installed before completing painting the bulwarks.
     Next came construction of the exterior hull pieces that will make up the lower and upper paddlewheels.  For the first time I ran into some difficulty with understanding the instruction booklet.  I came up with a few questions regarding positioning of various parts that the photos just did not do justice.  I looked at the build logs of a couple of Harriet Lanes in this forum and they were quite helpful.  Being able to look at other builds of your current build is a HUGE help.   I also deviated from the recommended paint scheme of the lower paddlewheels.  The booklet and kit photos call for the entire structure to be painted black.  I decided to paint the wheels red and the paddles brown to simulate a natural wood finish.  Not scale; but I like the way the paddlewheels stand out from the hull.
     With the lower paddlewheels installed; I began work on the deck.  This task was both easier and more difficult that I expected.  A lot of very careful fitting and shaving is required.  This was the first time I ran into a kit piece that did not fit well.  I wish Model Shipways had made the decking pieces a bit oversized and let me do the fitting.  Once the decking was installed I ran a strip at the bottom of the bulwarks to "hide" the gaps that had appeared.  Not perfect; but I am satisfied.  The last step was to give the bulwarks a final sanding and then several coats of white paint.  Quite a bit of masking is required.
     I have kind of hit a milestone.  The hull and main decking is complete.  From here forward most everything else I build will be built above the deck.
 

Work continues.  Thought I would post a few photos of the planking process.  The planking in this kit is laser cut on 1/32" sheet.  This really cuts down on the cutting, fitting and shaping.  Each strake (there are 10) consists of 3 pieces (fore, aft and center).  Generally the fore and aft pieces require soaking in water before fitting on the hull.  I used a 1" diameter PVC pipe, plugged at one end, tipped on end (vertical) and filled with water.   Just drop each planking piece into the tube to soak.  Worked well.  I soaked the fore and aft pieces for about 10 minutes before fitting and gluing to the hull.  I used CA for the adhesive.  I did have a bit of trouble with the some of the planking bowing between the frames.  I tried steaming or adding a reinforcing piece behind the bows.  This worked most of the time but there are still areas that are slightly bowed.  Hopefully this will not be too conspicuous.
 
The next step was to cover the planked hull with spackling paste and sand, sand, sand.  I used spackling paste because it is inexpensive and sands easily.  Next step, plank the inner bulwark.  This went very easily until I reached the stern where the curve is quite severe.  The provided pieces (again, 1/32" sheet) were soaked about 20 minutes and then carefully bent around the curve.  I did not use heat, just slow bending by pressing the pieces against the bulwark.  Some triming at each end was required.  I cemented these pieces by brushing alphic resin (wood glue) on the piece.
 
  The following photos are of the hull during the planking process, the first round of spacking and sanding and fitting of the inner bulwark planking:
 
 

I like the look of your coppered hull but I also like the look of the painted hull that is on the cover of the box.  I am not sure if I want to follow in your footsteps and copper the hull or paint........decisions, decisions, decisions.  I am following your build as you are doing a great job as a guide; keep up the good work!

I am currently building a Model Shipways kit.  It contains a fair number of metal parts (including cannons) which are cast in Britannia.  The castings are quite crude and I would like to eliminate the seams and other extrusions and get them ready for painting.  How do you go about this task.....files, sandpaper, grinding wheels.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Welcome.

Welcome.

Work continues.  Thought I would post a few photos of the planking process.  The planking in this kit is laser cut on 1/32" sheet.  This really cuts down on the cutting, fitting and shaping.  Each strake (there are 10) consists of 3 pieces (fore, aft and center).  Generally the fore and aft pieces require soaking in water before fitting on the hull.  I used a 1" diameter PVC pipe, plugged at one end, tipped on end (vertical) and filled with water.   Just drop each planking piece into the tube to soak.  Worked well.  I soaked the fore and aft pieces for about 10 minutes before fitting and gluing to the hull.  I used CA for the adhesive.  I did have a bit of trouble with the some of the planking bowing between the frames.  I tried steaming or adding a reinforcing piece behind the bows.  This worked most of the time but there are still areas that are slightly bowed.  Hopefully this will not be too conspicuous.
 
The next step was to cover the planked hull with spackling paste and sand, sand, sand.  I used spackling paste because it is inexpensive and sands easily.  Next step, plank the inner bulwark.  This went very easily until I reached the stern where the curve is quite severe.  The provided pieces (again, 1/32" sheet) were soaked about 20 minutes and then carefully bent around the curve.  I did not use heat, just slow bending by pressing the pieces against the bulwark.  Some triming at each end was required.  I cemented these pieces by brushing alphic resin (wood glue) on the piece.
 
  The following photos are of the hull during the planking process, the first round of spacking and sanding and fitting of the inner bulwark planking:
 
 

Work continues.  Thought I would post a few photos of the planking process.  The planking in this kit is laser cut on 1/32" sheet.  This really cuts down on the cutting, fitting and shaping.  Each strake (there are 10) consists of 3 pieces (fore, aft and center).  Generally the fore and aft pieces require soaking in water before fitting on the hull.  I used a 1" diameter PVC pipe, plugged at one end, tipped on end (vertical) and filled with water.   Just drop each planking piece into the tube to soak.  Worked well.  I soaked the fore and aft pieces for about 10 minutes before fitting and gluing to the hull.  I used CA for the adhesive.  I did have a bit of trouble with the some of the planking bowing between the frames.  I tried steaming or adding a reinforcing piece behind the bows.  This worked most of the time but there are still areas that are slightly bowed.  Hopefully this will not be too conspicuous.
 
The next step was to cover the planked hull with spackling paste and sand, sand, sand.  I used spackling paste because it is inexpensive and sands easily.  Next step, plank the inner bulwark.  This went very easily until I reached the stern where the curve is quite severe.  The provided pieces (again, 1/32" sheet) were soaked about 20 minutes and then carefully bent around the curve.  I did not use heat, just slow bending by pressing the pieces against the bulwark.  Some triming at each end was required.  I cemented these pieces by brushing alphic resin (wood glue) on the piece.
 
  The following photos are of the hull during the planking process, the first round of spacking and sanding and fitting of the inner bulwark planking:
 
 

Work continues.  Thought I would post a few photos of the planking process.  The planking in this kit is laser cut on 1/32" sheet.  This really cuts down on the cutting, fitting and shaping.  Each strake (there are 10) consists of 3 pieces (fore, aft and center).  Generally the fore and aft pieces require soaking in water before fitting on the hull.  I used a 1" diameter PVC pipe, plugged at one end, tipped on end (vertical) and filled with water.   Just drop each planking piece into the tube to soak.  Worked well.  I soaked the fore and aft pieces for about 10 minutes before fitting and gluing to the hull.  I used CA for the adhesive.  I did have a bit of trouble with the some of the planking bowing between the frames.  I tried steaming or adding a reinforcing piece behind the bows.  This worked most of the time but there are still areas that are slightly bowed.  Hopefully this will not be too conspicuous.
 
The next step was to cover the planked hull with spackling paste and sand, sand, sand.  I used spackling paste because it is inexpensive and sands easily.  Next step, plank the inner bulwark.  This went very easily until I reached the stern where the curve is quite severe.  The provided pieces (again, 1/32" sheet) were soaked about 20 minutes and then carefully bent around the curve.  I did not use heat, just slow bending by pressing the pieces against the bulwark.  Some triming at each end was required.  I cemented these pieces by brushing alphic resin (wood glue) on the piece.
 
  The following photos are of the hull during the planking process, the first round of spacking and sanding and fitting of the inner bulwark planking:
 
 

I like the look of your coppered hull but I also like the look of the painted hull that is on the cover of the box.  I am not sure if I want to follow in your footsteps and copper the hull or paint........decisions, decisions, decisions.  I am following your build as you are doing a great job as a guide; keep up the good work!

I like the look of your coppered hull but I also like the look of the painted hull that is on the cover of the box.  I am not sure if I want to follow in your footsteps and copper the hull or paint........decisions, decisions, decisions.  I am following your build as you are doing a great job as a guide; keep up the good work!

Paddle box lower sections:
The lower paddle box sections are made up of two forming pieces separated by a spacer.  Assembling these pieces is pretty straight forward, you just need to pay close attention to their correct orientation.
 
Spacer glued in place.

 
Glued the second forming piece to the spacer.  Only thing I had to keep them lined up and vertical was my mini miter box.

 
The wrapping pieces were centered and glued to the front of the paddle boxes.  After the glue dried I used my wife's 'plank bender' to steam and bend the pieces to fit around the sides of the paddle boxes. 

Wrapping pieces were then glued to the sides of the paddle boxes and held in place with rubber bands.

 
Sponson deck sections:
While I was working on the paddle boxes sections I also glued the two sponson decks together.  I wasn't quite sure which square holes to use to align these pieces as called for in the instructions because none of them seemed to line up properly.  What I used was the small round hole at the end of the pieces that seemed to position the pieces in their correct orientation relative to each other.  Used a drill bit for the alignment pin.

 
 
 

Having completed the hull bulkhead and spine assembly, the bulwark and bulwark fill was the next step.  Again, the instructions were pretty clear and most of the provided wood was adequate.  You first wrap the bow and sides of the hull with 1/32 inch strips that are about 1/2 inch in width.  I soaked the port and starboard bow strips for about 5 minutes in water and then used CA to attach to the hull.  No problems.
 
The port and starboard aft pieces did not require any soaking.  Again, CA glue was used.
 
The bass sheeting that wraps around the stern presented a bit more of a problem.  I soaked the wood pieces provided and then used a curling iron to set a basic bend in the pieces.  It looked pretty good until it dried.  The pieces shrunk and twisted and looked horrible.  I was tempted to remove them and start over until I realized that a second piece was wrapped around the curve on the inside.   Again I soaked the inner pieces in water and then carefully bent them (by hand, no curling iron).  I left the original two outer pieces glued to the hull but split them with a knife so that they could be lengthened as I carefully glued the new inner pieces in place.  I did not use CA during this process.  I relied on good ole white glue.  Well, the stern is not perfect but I deemed it acceptable.
 
The final steps in this process was to glue 1/32 bulwark inner strips around the entire hull and "plane" the bulkheads flush with these inner strips.  Except for breaking a few bulkheads during the planing process, this went pretty well.  Now I am ready to begin plank the rest of the hull.  Wish me luck.

A beautiful model.  I really like the amount of "natural" wood you left in the model.  Gives a "light" appearance overall.

A beautiful model.  I really like the amount of "natural" wood you left in the model.  Gives a "light" appearance overall.

A beautiful model.  I really like the amount of "natural" wood you left in the model.  Gives a "light" appearance overall.

I am impressed.....with your courage.

Completed deck and added inner bulwarks. 
 

 

Thanks rcmdrvr.  I find that the adhesive on the back of the tape is sufficient to hold it in place and don't use any additional glue.  I use a wallpaper seam rolled to press the tape down after it's set in place.  I personally have not sealed the copper plating on any of my ships and it seems to hold up well.  I know other people who do, so I think it's a matter of personal taste to seal or not to seal.  One thing you do have to be careful of is to not touch the copper with your bare fingers, fingerprints are very noticeable.  I always use latex gloves while putting the copper on and then try not to touch the bottom of the hull while doing other parts of the ship.