Piet

Amazing and beautiful work Dan. Just what we have come to expect from you.

Hi Dan,
 
fantastic looking and built Details, you really have an eye for These Special touches.   In what scale are your Preiser figurines ?
 
For my KWdG I`m looking out for 1:144 figurines in 1900 turn of the century fashions. Preiser has beautiful Solutions though ,but they are only in scale 1:100, what a pitty 
 
Nils

I'm following along and all I can think is "just unbelievable".   Wonderful work, Dan.

Dan I am enjoying all the details and research that you are chronicling in this build, beautiful work all round.
 
Michael

Another thing I did different was I didn't make any kind of jig or base to hold the ship down while I worked on it. Just wanted to try it to see easy or hard it would be this way. I was able to do it but I highly recommend not doing it this way It was much more irritating- especially doing the rigging.  After gluing the sea baser in. The !st bulb out of the pack of 4 bought this year was found broken open one morning much like the picture before showed. That was now 5 bulbs broken. Got the 6th one out & for the 6th time started it all over again. Began to wonder if this would be possible at all, Repeated all these steps again & was now needing to figure out what I would do for the sea. After test fitting the ship in the neck - you guessed it- another break. This time it was just the neck itself. Very frustrated I was about to give up. Then I looked at the thin metal decorative cap that goes over the neck that holds the wire for hanging the ornament. When this piece is on it would completely hide this break. I decided I would finish this build & epoxy the neck back on & hide it all with the cap afterwards. The opening was still the same except it had a sharp edge I would need to be very careful with. I went with it......
 

Got a different set of Christmas bulbs made by a different company from a different store this year, Began the process over again. glued the bottom label disc in. Painted the space between, got the sea bed base in. The Rouse Simmons carried Christmas trees so I wanted to show some on this build. Made some Christmas trees to put on deck by trimming the tip of a pipe cleaner- (being a pipe smoker I've got these laying around). Clipped them off & painted them. They were shipped bundled by tying them up with ropes so I rapped some very thin thread around them.
 

I asked Gwen to scrutinize the railings after I stained the corner posts and put some poly on them.  She only found some fault with one of the middle stanchions not having the same width as the rest and the corner post is a little out of plumb.  She measured a few items and found that it was acceptable to her and not worth the effort to rip them off the deck and remake them.
So then, for now I'll leave them alone and continue with the cannon tackle gear.  That'll keep me occupied for some time putting the straps on the pulley blocks with their hardware hardware.  64 pulley blocks!
 
There are plenty other things to do to break the monotony.
 
This is what it looks like as of this afternoon.
 

The right arrow is pointing to the corner post that's not quite plumb to the deck.  I'll rework that one.  The left arrow is pointing to a stanchion that's also not quite plumb but that one is not cemented to the deck - yet.  Gwen said it was also thinner then the rest.  This might also be an optical illusion due to the light and shadow playing tricks.  As far as i am concerned I leave that one alone but cement it to the deck.  I little heavy CA works wonders,  
 
Cheers,

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Here I thought I would be done with these small pieces of railing but I have to remake them.  When I dry-fitted them to the deck I could already see that it would not work.
So, back to cutting more food and doing it a little different as far as mounting the center four stanchions.  I have to match the rest of the railings, i. e. making them flat instead of round, otherwise it would not look good.
 
What I did, thinking saving some time, is to assemble the railings in the workbench and that to the deck.  Good thought but it didn't pan out that way.
What I'll do is to cement the reworked railings to the deck with only the two outer stanchions.  Then fit each new stanchion to the space between the deck and railing cap and use only three of them.
 
Oh well, just a few days of a set back.  
 

I cemented the pins into the railing cap first with CA and after they are secure enough I was going to cement the plank-like stanchions to the cap.  Even after I painstakingly filed all of the stanchions to the same height - - - oh well, you'll see that things didn't pan out that way.
 

This shows the assembled railings.  The inner four can still be manipulated for the final cementing to the deck.  All of them were close enough to the same height but - - - NOT 
 

Here I have dry-pinned the railings to the deck and you can see it is one big fiasco.  The inner stanchions are a mess and to close together at the bend.  I may wind up with only three inner stanchions.
 
Cheers,

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Beautiful work Nenad.
 
Cheers,

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

There is a topic in this area... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4423-what-else-do-you-model-besides-ships/     Seems to pretty much cover what's wanted.

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Nils you could have fooled me. Nice touch on the glass in the portholes, both a sence of glass and some depth without looking flat.
 
Michael

Hi Peter,
 
thanks again for your Input here...
 
yes you are so right...., I believe there are at least three aspects of the paint Job, one is the paint-type itself with choise of color, then the way of applying it, and just as important, the way of following tips and tricks (provided These are known) to achieve a good looking result.
I have for myself not gained enough experience with the painting in order to avoid unnecessary risks with the paint Job.
 
Nils

Hi Nils
 
Oh, I always follow your build closely but most of the time I'm just too dumbstruck with awe barely able to hit the 'like' button.
 
This time I wanted to write about something which could ruin almost any model: wrong colour. Of course not yours - this is a piece of art.
 
The second trial looks much better to me.
 
About repeated blending of the colours: this is difficult but easier if you use a simple proportion. On Pickle I  take one part of white on tree parts of yellow. Of course there are slight variations in the colour but so were on the prototype. You couldn't paint such a behemoth as yours and expect the colour to be exactly the same over the entire space. At least not before RAL colour schemes came in use. And then the painting continued over the whole life of the ship. There was always something to mend or to beautify.
 
Cheers
Peter