Piet

Sorry to hear about your mother in law.   I'm glad that your mother in law has you to help take care of her.  I've been very fortunate to have loved ones help me when I needed it and I'm glad when I can help my family when they need me.  It's just one of the wonderful aspects of having a family.
 
As you take care of everyone else, don't forget to take care of yourself.  You've had a hard year and need to stay healthy as well. Make sure you take time to lower your stress.
 
All the best to you and your family!
 
By the way the work on the ship looks great!
Marc

All my hopes for a quick and easy recovery for your Mother-In-Law Nenad.  Family always comes first, and "Her Majesty" will be there waiting. 

Hi Nenad
 
I'm sorry to hear that once again, you and your family are facing challenging times. Life is not fair at the best of times, and you have certainly been hit hard.
 
Please take care and be comforted in the knowledge that your MSW friends are thinking of you.
 
Patrick

Very usefull informations Marc. Thank you very much!!! I'll use them when I return to AI from workshop

A bit of progress

Whole down line of dead eyes for aft deck made.



Interesting. With redrilling holes, sanding, shapeing and twisting Cu wire and soldering as neccessary steps per piece, it goes faster than I hope

In mean time, life just do not know what is enough. My mother in law (80) gets seriously ill.( probably cancer, tests are running jet). She lost his husband two years ago, my late Admiral was her only child, and her death two months ago, hits old lady very hard. I left as her son in law, and as I very respect and love old lady, I must and want to take care of her until the end. And kids are here. Fortunately, her flat is 5 min of slow walking from our house. Begining of court seasson at september 1st and this situation may slow down my work on CS

Nenad,
 
Longridge provides more info.
 
The forward companion way is 3 feet 9 inches wide and 6 feet 6 inches high.  It extends aft for 4 feet 6 inches.
I can't find where he provides measurements for the aft companion way.   

That chimney moves around some!  When it does appear in your photo it isn't in the same position as it is in woodget's photo and campbell's plans!
 
Isn't the part on the deck in the see me photo the bottom of the poop rail where the buckets fit.  If so they must have removed it and had it just sitting there while they were working -maybe?

Hi Nenad,
 
The alterations to the aft deck house were done under  the Portuguese when she was owned by J. Ferreira and Co. Longridge's book has her with this configuration. Her original front was removed and replaced with a taller entrance with doors on both sides.  Also the rear entrance was added.  I'm not suprised that they didn't restrore the original entrance.  It wouldn't have been good for visitors - only one entrance/exit and not very tall, you would have had to keep the booby hatch portion open so people wouldn't hit their heads and I'm sure that it wasn't as water tight during rain as the solid top with side doors.
 
My Mantua model plans have the current hatches for the aft deck house.
 
Here are images from the plans
 

 

 
Using known measurements versus the plan and using ratios, it appears that the height of the forward structure from deck to the top is approximately 6 - 6.5 feet high and approximately 3 - 3.5 feet wide.  The aft structure is approximately 5 - 5.5 feet high from deck to top and approximately 2.5 feet wide.
 
I'll check Longridge's book and see if he provides a better description of dimensions
 
Hope this helps
Marc

Looking good.

Just make sure to plan for threading the lanyards.
 
Once the deadeyes are installed, there is a railing in front of the holes.. :-/
Make sure you can get to them. I had to rip a couple of mine out and redo because there was not enough room to work.
 
I found it easier to thread the lanyards to the top deadeye without tightening before installing.
(Most of them, I had to thread in place with masts and shrouds in the way, and I found that much harder)
 
/Peter

Jesse, I don't know if you've had a chance to look at my build but I tied to explain the different planking patterns, 3 butt, 4 butt and what Chuck used.  see link 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8410-us-brig-syren-by-sald-–-model-shipways/?p=292710. 
 
Also the planking is tapered towards the stern not the bow.  Your right though, if you don't taper the planks at the stern you should nib them into the margin plank otherwise they will end at a point. I tapered mine so I didn't need to do that.
 
I didn't find nibbing the margin plank at the bow with it glued in place to difficult.  I cut the deck plank first then laid it on top of the margin plank to mark where I needed to cut it.
 
Hope this helps.

Hi Mark. Thanks for looking in. The tool is working great and it is very easy to use -- even on a picnic table. The vise is what makes it so versatle since you don't have to hold it and you can control it with the workpiece not the tool. I can get all kind of angles with it including 90 degree mounting. It also has holes for screws to mount it more permanently to a workbench if needed. Let me know when you want yours....I have some with me and can ship anytime.
John
 
Here's the link:
 
http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/store/p321/39405_Precision_Vise_FMZ_%26__Micromot_Tool_Clamp.htmlhelink:

hello everyone  .......thanks for the kind comments and the likes.   when I got back to her,  it was kinda short lived......I only got to stain the chain boards and do the rest of the assembly for the gun port lids.  first day back at work........surprisingly,  it wasn't too bad.   at least they didn't move everything around on me     work this week....then the week after I have Monday off.   I only need to wait till the 20th of September,  and I get all my vacation time back 
 
I just hope this week goes quick 
 
welcome back Augie 

It's all looking fantabulous Patrick!
 
Cheers,

Lovely!
 
Cheers,

Very nice indeed!  Love the stern tuck, looks very symmetrical.
 
Cheers,

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 15 – Final Hull Fairing
 
Once the keel/stem/sternpost assembly was installed, the final fairing of the hull into the rabbet could be done.  Along the stem and keel the joint with the hull is on the bearding line, so the first step was to fair the hull along this line to meet the thickness of the stem/keel (16”), which is the hull breadth at that line.  In the first picture the “hump” on the hull spine is being pared back to match the width of the keel.
 

 
In the next picture a riffler is being used to produce the final faired surface at the stem.
 

 
At the stem the area outside of the bearding line must be further pared back smoothly into the stem rabbet that was cut before assembly.  In the next picture that is being done with a shallow gouge.
 

 
In the next picture the fairness in this area is being checked with a strip of planking.
 

 
The same process was repeated at the stern – and of course on both sides.  The hump along the keel at the stern is being removed in the next picture.
 

 
Sanding is always the final step.
 

 
The final sanding of the hull was done using 120-grit paper.
 
With the hull now fully faired the bevels on the aft face of the sternpost were filed off as shown below, while the model was inverted.
 

 
The post bevels allowed the rudder to swing over its full arc without being obstructed by the post.  After this work, the lower hull was ready to be planked.
 
And by the way, thanks again for all the likes and especially the nice comments.
 
Ed
 

very good fairing Job Ed,
 
also those Tools are just right to achieve the best results. That hull Looks perfect !
 
Nils

Ed - I continue to learn new techniques from you - thanks!  The idea of holding the scraper for the rabbet in a vise rather than the other way around seems like common sense, but I think I would have struggled for a long time before coming up with it myself, if ever!

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 14 – Stem/Keel/Sternpost 3
 
Before attaching the keel/stem assembly to the hull, the sternpost had to be installed.  In the first picture a template is being used to check the hull for fitting the post.
 

 
The template is aligned at station 50.  The picture shows the need for a filler piece.  In the next picture the hull has been cut back for the filler, it has been installed, and the hull is being checked again with a different template.
 

 
The filler piece provided a straight, flat surface on which to bed the sternpost – assuring a good joint and clean surface for shaping the deadwood into the sternpost rabbet.  In the next picture, with the hull plumbed, the sternpost centerline is being marked on the filler.
 

 
In the next picture the hull has again been inverted and the sternpost is being fit up.
 

 
Holes for locating pins were drilled with the post in position.  The bottom of the post was then cut off flush with the bottom of the hull.  In the next picture the sternpost rabbet is being scraped out using the vise as a guide.
 

 
The rabbet was formed on both sides in this way – all the way to the bottom of the post up to the intersection with the hull at the top.  In the next picture the post is being glued to the hull.
 

 
The keel assembly rabbet was extended only back to the inner line of the post, as shown below, deferring final rabbeting until after assembly.
 

 
In the last picture the stem/keel assembly is being glued to the hull and held in place with pins driven through wood blocks.
 

 
The hold down bolts were in position for the gluing/clamping, but were removed to avoid them being glued in.
 
The next step was to fair the deadwood into the rabbets at both ends – next time.
 
Ed

Thanks Nils. I am dummy and can not remember, so I have to make a note.

Mass production starts with (4+2) x 2 =12 dead eyes 4mm dia for aft deck row which go directly to aft deck, without down structure

This is phase No 1. - shape/redril holes, sand a bit, mount Cu telephony wire, solder ends, center hole position

Follow shapeing , fiting, glueing painting and cementing




This will be more interesting with smaller ones tomorrow. Now I go to fright myself with Jurassic Park 1 , 125th time watching

Very nice Nenad,
 
I like that deadeye Chart, giving the overview of what sizes and quantities go where ?
 
Nils

Very glad to see you again, Bob. I hope you cleared away life issues around you, and to see your post and progress soon !!!!
 
You are quite right. interesting question is ( considering my "artistic" approach) to add or not chimney etc etc. We`ll see when time comes
 
For now, dead-eye analytic is over, I chose where to put 4mm and where 3mm dead eyes, and mass-production can start
 

Remember this ship is 146 years old.. If you had a house that old, lots if remodeling would be done...
 
You are doing a first rate job, my Friend!
 
~Bob

Thx for nice word, Harry
 
Nothing to be afraid of. Anyway even as a kit builder, you have to cut, fit and adjust parts, sometimes to replace, and there is not a big step to scratch. Also more interesting - for me

For a "Scratch" Build, something that I would be very maybe afraid of, your work is awesome chap!!

" ... Chim chim-in-ey, chim chim-in-ey , Chim chim cher-ee! ..."
 
One more nice detail, discovered during analyze of photos I colected
 
Now you see it !!!!
 

 
Now you don`t  !!!!
 

 
Also this disappeared !!!