Piet

I completely agree with Patrick Nils. It would be great to see what you did in detail as you strip down the engine for the overhaul, Steam engines are a lot of fun. A  steam launch is on my list of things to get done in the next few years. I already have a couple of different boilers half built.
this one would work well.
 

 

 
Michael
 

Nils,
 
Here she is "arranged" with HO gauge scenery.
 
John

Hi Nils,
 
After looking through this thread it dawned on me that you were one of the
few who commented on my CR Lamb stern wheeler. Now that I know of your
accomplishments, as listed above, I really feel humbled. Thank you.
 
I have thought about building the Bohuslan but doubt if I have the skills or
patience to put years into a build. Understand the current version has it's
own issues.
 
Here's a little number I scratch built, 1/87 scale, a few years ago. An extended
and modified version of SS Sabino in Mystic Seaport (CT).
 
 
 
John Elwood

unfortunately no Patrick,
 
the boiler still is unreparable (must be new built), and the motor needs complete overhauling
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
I ripped open the boiler outer skin to see where the leakage is (Unreparable)
 
 

 
here a view into the firing tube, there the smaller cross spicked instant steam tubes can bee seen inside
 
 

 
this is how the motor fits into the engine room
 
 

 
here the boiler with removed wooden cladding insulation

Introduction :
 
This project has been completed already in the years 1984 / 1985, when I was still a young man. I had the intension of building my own designed steam engine for a model ship. A regular steam engine with crosshead-guides and Stephenson reversing  control device, was too complicated to build, in lack of neighther lathe nor milling machine (still do`nt have….). So I decided to design a steam-motor with a minimum on moving parts, and yet powerful enough to propell an appr.  1100 mm long RC controlled ship model. And the driving challenge was also to see if I could do it anyway……
 
 
Current status :  After some years of perfect performance, the boiler became a hair crack leakage in one or two of the inner heating tubes solderings, that unfortunately could not be mended without destroying the boiler. So neighther ship nor motor had been moved since. I wanted to rotate the motor the other day by trying to rotate the crankshaft  but all was blocked somewhere, probably the pistons are sticking to the cylinder walls. Shall have to dismantle everything completely for overhaul, and build a new boiler if I want to have fun on that behalf again. Fortunately the was a raghther short little super 8 Kodak film made of the model travelling on the lake at full steam in those wayback years, the film in miserable quality, but at least a document of a successfully completed project. I`ll try to put that film in a little video here on MSW in this log later on. Some of the pictures I found fortunately  in my photo-archive and scaned them in, and was myself surprised that I even had pics of motor complete, and boiler in the building stage. I thought this may be of interest for the one or other fellow builder here at MSW. The ship itself is still ready to be launched at any time, only the prop has a bit patina on it
 
 
 
 
 
The ship
Model-length       1090 mm
Steam powered, gas fired, RC controlled, fictional version  river tug “Lorbas” in nostalgic look
Model Build year : 1984 / 1985
Ship is POB scratch design, self drawn lines, ply frames and diagonal planked with balsa stripes,
Hull coated with glass-fibre rowing cloth and epoxy resin
Removable deck housings and many maintenance opening hatches and doors, and
ventillation openings for the boiler- and machine room
large self made 80 mm 4-blade brass propeller
 
RC control
Simple oldtimer 2-channel radio-controller, Make “Robbe” and on the ship two-channel
receiver and two servos (one for steam reverse valve, stop, foreward, aft) one for rudder
port / stb. One power pack comprising  4 x 1,5 V mignon Batteries. I`m not allowed to use
this RC equipment any more  due to national postal radio frequency regulations
 
The Engine
Self designed Six cylinder Steam motor in Vee-6 design, for superheated steamflow, with direct piston rods to crankshaft, ball bearing crankrod head-bearings,  each cylinderhead  with common, horizontal working slide cam control bars, manifolds for steam inlet and steam outlet (reversible)
Steam reverse valve (for swapping inlet / outlet channels with RC servo function.
Motor designed for 2 bar constant steam backpressure when running at 200 RPM in direct
(quick disconnectable) coupling to propshaft
Idle unbreaked motor runs up to 3000 RPM, if control cam positions are set correct
Model speed like modest walking pedestrian
Lubrication by means of oiler-device in live steam line (high viscosity steam engine oil)
Piston rings made of Teflon in circumferential pistenring grooves
Manifold gaskets made from Viton O-rings (heat resistant)
Elbow- and t-fittings and flanges silver soldered, tubes soft soldered in
Materials:  brass and stainless steel and commercial available bearings
Six Cylinders 10 mm diam.  X 10 mm strokelength
Due to the six cylinder arrangement the motor is capable of starting rotation at any crank position
 
The boiler
It was my aim to create a powerful lightweight design for firing with butan gas burner and gas from commercial, exchangeable  cylindrical cartridges that fit into the boat (like used for refueling cigarette lighters).
 
Function:
 
The boiler has one central flame-tube cross-spicked through with 6  smaller instant steam tubes that mount into the area of the upper steam collector dome. The hot gas of the flametube then reverses direction in the outer end-camber, that also contains the superheater tube coil and from there 13 heating air tubes lead back through the boiler, into the opposite chamber that takes up the chimney tube (inner liner of the ships funnel)
The waste steam tube is connected to the inner chimney liner in order to burn out the micro-oil-fume of the exhaust steam in the upstreaming hot air together with the firing exhaust. (avoid lakewater pollution !)
The safe running time with one distilled boiler-water filling is 20 minutes
The boiler is capable of providing constantly 2 bar backpressure at ships full speed
The boiler is equipped with a stand, wooden plank cladding, a blow off safety valve, a pressure gauge, a main steam valve, an oiling device, a water level indicator, a draining  point, and a heat exchanger for pre-heating  the expanding butan gas from the gas cartridge
The boiler is mounted to a common aluminium baseplate that also takes up the motor mounting bracket and the burner mounting bracket.
To fire up the boiler, the flame tube is heated with a external (more powerful) gas tourch outside the ship. When reaching 2 bar steam pressure the complete baseplate is set into the ship from above
Materials:
Boiler complete from stainless steel, silver soldered, pressure tested with 4 bar
 
Enjoy......
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Denis,
 
Just catching up mate and boy have you ever shot forward. Your work is simply outstanding.
 
I have just one question, When do you sleep, if your not building your busy checking out other logs and that's gotta take a good bit of your time, then there's work, you do that sometimes too.
 
It's all to much for me, I'm going for a lie-down.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Never to late, David.

After a year of start building I somehow discovered that I am able to make very little things, and that my fingers can play very precise moves in small scale ( playing guitar 40 years probably). There is something truth in words "if you can make something little you can always make it bigger". Beside that, somewhere in same time, I also discovered that I can change my "Lego" approach to something with preliminary good fore-thinking instead aft-thinking, with necessary analytic and forced patience before acting. All this spiced by lot of things I learned on MSW, and my nature to rather accept challenges ( bigger=better) than reject, rather chose something new than "elephant path" and results simply must come one day. "Some" experience still miss, but there is no help except spending more of my time in workshop

So, changed approach obviously gave satisfied (and I must admit - unexpected) results in frame of my experience, but considering I long ago decided not to make Ver. Nô 2 from begging, some misfits and big mistakes ... just can not pretend they are not here ... working on railings I can not close my eyes to wrong and not equal width of inner bulwarks

I am not crying, I can happily live with this, particular somehow I succeed to make outside lines of hull after second layer of planking, coopering and painting, and whole full profile look, on some way that inside mess is pretty hiden and invisible, and I am happy to the sky !!! I picked up first WOWs from friends who see Her in present stage, and I'm very proud to myself, and very motivated to continue in such a, or if I'll be able, better way

Great great fun and joy, and medicine for stress and nervous. Why I didn't start 10 years ago ? Probably "someone" had to play computer games instead ( F-16, Mig-29, Star-wars, Call of Duty and Battlefield, and all that over and again in net/lan multiplayer version)

My head is still not-attached to body in proper way, and decided nit to work on Her today

BTW, it is NOT good having doctor in home ... Before, if you have headache, just wait to pass or take aspirin. Now ... Dad, I'll measure you blood press ... 110/170 ... you must urgently to medical center ... bla bla bla ... pils ... bla bla bla ... diet ... bla bla bla ... exercises ... bla bla bla ...

Tell me something new ...

Things were more and much simpler before

Just kidding ...

Thanks for the likes from all that pushed the like button, much appreciated. Hi Tony, haven't seen you in a while, hope all is well with you.
 
Yesterday and this morning I constructed the Mizzen Mast to break up the monotony of repeating most steps from the Foremast to the Mainmast. I'll do that later today and tomorrow.

My build is moving along at a glacial pace.  Primarily because I take my time to think things through and figure out how it's all going to fit together.  As I gain experience, maybe my pace will approach the speed of grass growing.  
~~~~~~~~~~~
The hull is painted!  I really don't like painting, but it's a skill I need to learn.  Paint will either showcase your planking or hide your planking.  I like the way my planking turned out, so I want to be able to see planking through the paint.     

 

 

 
Back in post #52 I lopped off a bit of the hull / keel so I could add a stern post.  It was a scary move, but I had thought it through and this is how it turned out!  I like it.     

 
Figuring out how to build the rudder / tiller and when to add the hardware took some time.  The tiller is removable so the rudder can be installed.      

 

 
Before I could add the bowsprit, I had to build up the bow stem.  This is another item that should have been done on page one.  I did my best and it's a bit off.  But with the bowsprit, it's not as visible.  I couldn't find the walnut square that I was planning to use for the bowsprit, so I glued up a blank from four pieces.  The bowsprit is supposed to be unpainted, but decided to paint it to hide the glue seams.  The aft most section is square and rests on the bow thwart between two stops.  These two stops were a pain.  The first wood I used didn't like to be glued and broke off AFTER I finished retouching the paint!  

 

 
I keep on finding more and more little detailed parts that need to be added.  My rolling TO DO list has 25 items and none are related to the rigging!  The kit rigging is overly simplified using only single blocks.  On the Shepherdess from Domremy, half of the blocks are double blocks and I think there's one or two triple blocks.  So, I need to draw / diagram the actual rigging plan and determine how many blocks and how much line I'll need and order from Syren. 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by.
 
Dee Dee
 
(Edited to fix photos)

Very nicely done on that bulkhead Sjors.  It even had door handles on the doors!  Are they hinged and work too???
 
Cheers,

Thans everyone for dropping in and for hitting the like button.  
 
Hey Augie, great seeing you here and thanks for the kudos.  Yeah, I like the green, it reminds me of the Dutch ships and houses in Holland.  I find it a happy color.
 
Hi George, yes, that wetting or damping of wood is something not wel known except for real wood finishers.  I use a wood conditioner for soft woods, it holds the wood fibers together and hardens it some.    Final wet-sanding with at least a 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper.  Comes out like a baby's skin.
 
Hoi Sjors, glad you found me even with such a short name  Piet, yup, that's short but like my name-sake, a famous Dutch admiral, my deeds are great   
Thank you my friend for being amazed at my humble little kit build.  I did figure out that kit building is very difficult - that's why I'd rather do scratch building, much easier.
 
 
Well, today was more of a frustration day then progress.  The stain on the display board just didn't want to dry.  Even setting it outside in the sun (70 F) it wouldn't dry and remained slightly sticky.  This is setting me back big time because I really wanted to mount it to the display board..  
But I did some more touchup paint work and fiddled some with the boom.  I added the gaff fork to it as Dee_Dee suggested but now have a problem in holding it to the mast and making ready for fastening the sail to it.  I know, I could have temporarily tied it ti the mast but instead I installed parrels inside the gaff type fork       
I'm also working on the cord that prevents the boom from being pulled up by the sail.  Very tricky place to work, it's between the cabin and mast, not much room to serve it.
 
I hope that the stain has dried enough by tomorrow so I can mount the boat to it and get on with the rigging.  Looks like that making the sails will commence very soon.
 
Cheers to all, 

Yup, those reefing lines at these scales are always a problem but you are doing okay with the thinned PVA !  It's looking really very nice!
 
Cheers, 

Ok Piet!!!  
 
I absolutely must know what's happened to O 19!  It's been a long time since your last post on the sub.  Surely, it can't be finished yet?
 
I'm getting withdrawal symptoms!!!!!
 
Can I, maybe, if it is indeed finished, suggest a big splash of photos in the gallery section?
 
cheers
 
Patrick

Finished all the frames and working on the bow and stern. I tend to overthink different ways on how to built different items. For instance - the bow - I make numerous templates and come up with many creative ideas on how this item should be built. I make it from balsa and basswood, then dry fit and if it isn't right I start all over again. I then resort back to the first idea.
 
I also get stuck on a particular measurement. In Emke's drawings the distance from frame 6.5 to the stern is different on 2 plans by 2 mm. I contemplate too much. I want it all exact but then when you think about it, 'nothing is exact'. Not in those days and not now. :-)
 

Used dark cherry to simulate oak. I am pretty happy about these pieces as they turned out well.
 

Different view and not sanded yet.
 

Template of the stern. The blue lines are for the framing of the stern.
 
 

Template of the lower part of the stern. To check distance and how it will be positioned.
 
 

Different templatesw and there are many more of these.

Hey Denis, you are too much kind ...
 
Right now Im down ( blood preasure issue) and cant write much
 
Rigging ... with no serious experience ... but I think ... big big inspiration in Danny's HMS Vulture , also Nils Lagenmann works etc&etc, rigging ... really bad influece lead me to devil's road to try something like those phenomenal works
 
Again my usual life story: too much ambition VS too little skill
 
Something will "drop down" from this soap I hope ... and maybe I learn something untill ...
 
First to finish painting, then to play with deck furniture, fittings and another content, AND THEN !!!
 
Masts ...
Spars ...
Rigging ...

removing the upper area masking,  I was surprised to see that there was so little over spray.  I will need to see what the cap rail color is supposed to be.......I think it is Green,  so I used it as a mask point.   the main deck isn't too bad.......the scuppers will always be a sore spot........I can never get perfect paint in these areas.
 

 

 
the fore deck needs a little touch up........but it fared rather well with the way I masked it
 

 
here are the most critical areas.......under the fore deck.   the starboard side did very well.....nothing here to speak of.
 

 
but the port side didn't fare as well.......still,  there's only a slight tinge,  so it's not too bad.
 

 
I'll need to decant some of the primer,  to touch them up.   really not too bad considering the task it took to mask it.   one I can paint around the lower rub rail and establish the line........and get the rudder in place.......then I can do the bottom paint.   then....with all that done......I can go no where else,  but up!
 
I'm smiling   the hard part of the paint is over

now that the roof is well under way,  I thought I'd get the interior of the pilot house in order.   I'm probably not going to do a lot in there........but I will throw something at it.   going into the cast off piece bottle again,  the dash was fitted with gauge bezels
 

 
still thinking of what to add,  I made up another sampson post........and what looks like another,  much taller vent tube assembly,  associated with the catch hold.
 

 
while this was drying,  I settled into a video game.........more thought about where to go next.  then I snapped!   normally,  when I paint,  I do it as I go along....I get a better separation of color that way.
      but,  with the way this build came about,  and was assembled,  I wasn't able to do that.  all I could think of,  was "how in the heck am I going to mask her?" and.....keeping the deck area paint free.  I have boxed myself into quite a corner here.......gonna take some creative taping to save my butt!  it took a bit of effort, but I did it.   no exhaust fan,  and less than desirable temps........I'm going for it!
      let's just say that this spontaneous decision,  shouldn't have been done with so little regard with what could go wrong.   first was the airbrush..........the one I have relied on since 2010...the Testor's E-Z air siphon feed.  I still say that it's not a bad airbrush for the money.......I bought the complete "Amazing Air kit" for something like $29.00.......and I've painted all of my builds since then,  with very little trouble.
      I think the sad part about this airbrush,  is it's mostly made of plastic,  and can become badly worn over time.  the heads of the plastic caps can become distorted and contributed most of the problems with the paint delivery.  needless to say.......when I was done,  I scalped what I could from it,  and the rest went into the trash!   I have another one,  that I bought from the clearance rack at Hobby Lobby,  that I can outfit and use with my compressor, as easy as I did with the first one.  my other problem was the paint.   if anyone has followed my exploits in the past,  I had acquired a good supply of Billing's paints a while back.   I still say that these paints are a good quality paint......goes on nice and has a really hard finish when dry.   ones that I've opened so far,  have been the more common paints,  and have been OK.   I have opened others though......you can clearly tell that they've been on the shelf too long.......long gelled and hard *useless*.   such is the case for the paint I used here......I brought down two bottles, to the cellar paint room.  the first one had a skin build - up around the neck {which I did use}.......the second one was completely dead     I have one more bottle of this color in my inventory {I hope it's good}
    for all the trouble and frustration I encountered,  the paint work didn't come out too bad.  I checked that third bottle,  and it is good.........I'll need it for touch ups      I was going to start this update with an upbeat Irish motif because of the new color introduced.......if I would have done this last night....you would have experienced all sorts of blarney!  so.....here is the new color added to the mix 'Emerald Green'.
 

 

 
after some time,  it was brought upstairs where it's warm.  I was surprised to find only one small run,  on the whole job........very insignificant with how everything went.   the bottom hull section was masked around the lower rub rail......before the bottom paint is done,  I will paint this area.  there is no waterline on this vessel.   I gave it more time to dry,  before I removed the bottom masking.  I was still curious about the deck area......I'll wait a bit longer to reveal it.
 

Piet, 
Your MBLS is looking fantastic!  I love the green color.
Here's a photo and some info to help you with attaching the boom and gaff.

 
Dee Dee
 
 

looking awesome Piet!   love the stand! 

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Thans everyone for dropping in and for hitting the like button.  
 
Hey Augie, great seeing you here and thanks for the kudos.  Yeah, I like the green, it reminds me of the Dutch ships and houses in Holland.  I find it a happy color.
 
Hi George, yes, that wetting or damping of wood is something not wel known except for real wood finishers.  I use a wood conditioner for soft woods, it holds the wood fibers together and hardens it some.    Final wet-sanding with at least a 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper.  Comes out like a baby's skin.
 
Hoi Sjors, glad you found me even with such a short name  Piet, yup, that's short but like my name-sake, a famous Dutch admiral, my deeds are great   
Thank you my friend for being amazed at my humble little kit build.  I did figure out that kit building is very difficult - that's why I'd rather do scratch building, much easier.
 
 
Well, today was more of a frustration day then progress.  The stain on the display board just didn't want to dry.  Even setting it outside in the sun (70 F) it wouldn't dry and remained slightly sticky.  This is setting me back big time because I really wanted to mount it to the display board..  
But I did some more touchup paint work and fiddled some with the boom.  I added the gaff fork to it as Dee_Dee suggested but now have a problem in holding it to the mast and making ready for fastening the sail to it.  I know, I could have temporarily tied it ti the mast but instead I installed parrels inside the gaff type fork       
I'm also working on the cord that prevents the boom from being pulled up by the sail.  Very tricky place to work, it's between the cabin and mast, not much room to serve it.
 
I hope that the stain has dried enough by tomorrow so I can mount the boat to it and get on with the rigging.  Looks like that making the sails will commence very soon.
 
Cheers to all, 

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Thans everyone for dropping in and for hitting the like button.  
 
Hey Augie, great seeing you here and thanks for the kudos.  Yeah, I like the green, it reminds me of the Dutch ships and houses in Holland.  I find it a happy color.
 
Hi George, yes, that wetting or damping of wood is something not wel known except for real wood finishers.  I use a wood conditioner for soft woods, it holds the wood fibers together and hardens it some.    Final wet-sanding with at least a 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper.  Comes out like a baby's skin.
 
Hoi Sjors, glad you found me even with such a short name  Piet, yup, that's short but like my name-sake, a famous Dutch admiral, my deeds are great   
Thank you my friend for being amazed at my humble little kit build.  I did figure out that kit building is very difficult - that's why I'd rather do scratch building, much easier.
 
 
Well, today was more of a frustration day then progress.  The stain on the display board just didn't want to dry.  Even setting it outside in the sun (70 F) it wouldn't dry and remained slightly sticky.  This is setting me back big time because I really wanted to mount it to the display board..  
But I did some more touchup paint work and fiddled some with the boom.  I added the gaff fork to it as Dee_Dee suggested but now have a problem in holding it to the mast and making ready for fastening the sail to it.  I know, I could have temporarily tied it ti the mast but instead I installed parrels inside the gaff type fork       
I'm also working on the cord that prevents the boom from being pulled up by the sail.  Very tricky place to work, it's between the cabin and mast, not much room to serve it.
 
I hope that the stain has dried enough by tomorrow so I can mount the boat to it and get on with the rigging.  Looks like that making the sails will commence very soon.
 
Cheers to all, 

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,