Piet

And of course the steersman: 

another fitting:

Finished lanterns:

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your posts, I appreciate your praise and recognition a lot.
Few days ago I finished  lanterns ( made of card, clay and foils):





 
 

Thanks guys.
Ed, I will make a brick base underneath. My NMM plans don't show additional carlings or pillars so I'll leave the layout as it is.
 
Yes Sir Druxey, soot coming up, I had to make a little fire in the hearth to create this
 

 

 
All it needs now is a chimney to the upper deck and then I'll ask permission to call this challenge completed
 
Remco

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone for visiting and your like votes, it's much appreciated.
 
Could not get far today.  I forgot that I had our monthly meeting of the colored pencil society chapter here in Palm Coast.
 
I managed to fabricate the two hinge bracket pairs for the AA gun bun lids and soldered them to the lids.  
 
I first had to make the hinge mounts from brass sheet.  These are the rings you'll see on the photos.  I still have to make brackets that hold the center hinge part, a small copper tube, that'll be soldered to the ring  This will eventually be cemented to the outside of the styrene bun that sticks above the deck. 
 
The lid hinge brackets will have hinge pin holes drilled in them for the hinge pins to complete the hinge assembly.
 
It's kinda difficult to describe the manufacturing method so I have made a few pictures that hopefully will show what I mean.
 
I also had rotate the aft crew hatch tube by close to 90 degrees so the lid opens against the snorkel exhaust pipe instead of the port side railing.  I should have consulted the drawings first 
 
Well, that is all for today.  But it's progress and that's a good thing
 

This shows the parts I made for today's project.  The ring that'll go around the styrene tube and that'll be the foundation for the stationary hinge part.  Then the two hinge brackets to be soldered to the top of the lid.  The lid I made a week or so ago.
 

I figured to temporarily cement the brackets to the lid with a dab of CA so I can tack-solder the brackets because I had no way to hold them to the lid.  Big mistake because solder would not hold at that spot.  Fortunately it was only a tiny spot and is not noticeable.
For the second one I first spot-tinned both parts and then hand held each bracket to tack it to the lid.  Now I could hold both brackets to the lid with clothes pins and a steel clamp for a heat sink.
 

This is the completed lid assembly.  I made the brackets extra long so I can play with the final size.
 

This the same lid assy from a different angle.
 

This is the completed second lid assy.
 

This shows the forward gun placement. Here I have temporarily put the base ring over the styrene tube and placed the lid on top to show how it'll look like.  The lower part of the hinge bracket has to be made yet.
 

This shows the aft gun placement with the lid and base hinge ring temporarily put in place.  You can also see the change I made with the crew hatch tube.  
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Could not do much today due to other things I had to do with the admiral in St. Augustine but that gave me the chance to visit Hobby Lobby there.  Could not find what I'm looking for, it's more of a craft store rather then a hobby store    On to the internet for a search. 
 
As mentioned to Daniel in Spain I'm still working on the AA guns.  Right now I'm in the process of adding some detail items to them such as the elevation and rotation hand wheels and the elevation mechanism. I don't know yet how successful I'll be with either one because it's all so tiny but I'll give it an honest try 
 
I made four of the rims for these wheels but I need two more for the dingy tackle mechanism.  I think I made enough round rings for them all.
I am using 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes but if that proves too much of a struggle I'll have to resort to a strand of copper wire out of telephone wire and CA them to the rims, we'll see.
 
I have carved some wood away from the gun sides to accommodate these little hand wheels to allow them to go inside the buns. 
 
I'm anxious to start with the deck slats on the gun decks but I'll do these first now that I have started them.  The guns can always be fiddled with at any time because I can lift them out of the buns.
 

This picture shows the brass ring of 0.7 mm brass wire for the wheel rim with the 0.1 mm brass wire for the spokes ready to be soldered.  I may tin the parts first and them hold the .1 mm wire with tweezers to tack them to the rim and then use a steel office clamp as  heat sink to solder the other end.  The second wire can be tacked on in the center, I think.  The diameter of the wheel is 5 mm.  I wound the .7 mm wire around a 5 mm pin punch and snipped a ring off it and then soldered it into a ring.
 

These are the four wheels in process of being made.  Even though the scale at 1:50 is rather large this stuff is still tiny to work with and make it half way decent looking.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Truly Industrial work Piet.
 
I can hear the noise of the lid opening and the AA gun raising from its tube from here in Spain...
 
Best wishes!
 
 
daniel.

More lovely work, Piet!
 
John

Start of prelimarry painting. Rails are not painted yet
 
Hand-painted with help of magnifier, 2 hours until my eyes dropped down to workbench
 
Appearance is growing up !
 
Endless sanding and puttying and enormous polishing of hull is definitely worth it
 
In pictures this is not seen (low resolution and weak camera) , but I got exactly what I was looking for: Strip with water-ports look enough smooth and straight as it is done from metal plates, in hull under square white rail you can see strips of planks on  quite similar way as on the CS.
 
Real masters sure can do this much better, but I am very proud to myself   where I was and how it is going now
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 35 –Deadwood scores continued/stern timbers
 
Chiseling out the cant frame scores in place has gotten some comments, so I will show a couple more pictures of this.  In the first picture, a ¼” wide paring chisel is being used to pare out the third score forward after the outline had been scribed fairly deeply to prevent tear out.  
 

 
In this picture the chisel is being used with the bevel against the work so the bevel angle can be used to keep the paring cut vertical and controlled by the angle of the chisel.  The chisel is being lightly tapped with a small mallet.  This permits much better control of the cut than pushing the chisel and risking slippage and tear out.
 
In the next picture the chisel is being used to plunge cut and deepen the side line.
 

 
Once the depths along the boundaries of the score are sufficiently deepened, the center area can be pared and leveled out.  There will very likely be some additional light paring done when the cant frames are fitted.
 
In the next picture, all of the scores have been completed and the work on the stern framing has begun. 
 

 
The starboard stern timber is being fitted up in this picture.  The height at the top was measured from the drawing and transferred to the “clamped square”.  With the square positioned on the base drawing, the correct position of the timber can be fixed.  These timbers will be glued to the sternpost and bolted through.
 
In the next picture the port stern timber is being glued on.
 

 
The small height pencil mark on the clamped square can be seen in this picture.  The next picture shows both timbers installed – with the clamps cleared away.  All six starboard scores can also be seen in this picture.
 

 
The forward faces of both these stern timbers are beveled to match the angles aft of the aftermost cant frames.  Those frame pairs will butt against those faces when they are seated in the aftermost scores.  Then lots of bolts.
 
Assembly of those two cant frames is shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is quite a bit of work involved in these.  First, the lofting is more time consuming than for the square frames.  A lot of measurements were required for plotting the three curves involved in each cant pair.  Also, in these aft cants, scores for additional stern timbers and horizontal filling pieces were included on the patterns.  Following the pictured assembly step, the frames still need to be beveled, including the face bevel for the deadwood joint.  Then before installing, scores for the fillers and other stern pieces also need to be cut.  They are quite complex.  I am hoping they will fit together correctly.
 
Perhaps we shall see in the next parts.
 
 
Ed

Christian, based on what I know probably a brick hearth or a Brody style stove, but not a real Brody stove.
Sure Gary, I'll start taking orders
 
The pots are tubes turned on the lathe to give it a small rim, bottom and handles silver soldered. I made a smaller fish pot for the stove. Work began on the doors fitted to the sides of the stove, hinges and locking mechanism works, I think they look a bit heavy for a simple door, looks more like a safe door. Have to think about this .....
 

 
 
 

 
Grant, remember the wicker basket...
 

 
Remco

Thanks again, gentlemen, for your favourable comments.
 
A fishing boats needs some fish-baskets to store the sorted catch in.
 

Fish-baskets on the Marker botter in the Zuiderzeemuseum
 
I could not think a convincing method to fake such baskets and dropped ideas of using fabric or wire mesh – there would always be an unrealistic seam. If you have a closed or filled basket, you may sculpt it from something and imprint the woven pattern, but this does not work for empty ones. In the end, I decided to weave real baskets, well almost.
 

Tool for making (fish-)baskets
 
For this I needed a tool that would give the basket its shape and allow me to handle it while weaving. So I turned the little implement above from a piece of 5 mm diameter aluminium and drilled a 2 mm hole all the way through it. It will allow me make two baskets simultaneously. The material for weaving is another issue. I would have like to use wire, but it would have been difficult to actually weave with wire. So I used some thin cotton thread for the stakes and fly-tying yarn for the weave.
 

Weaving fish-baskets
 
First the ‚stakes’ were put into place by wind the thread around the form tool in a continuous series of loops, passing the return part through the middle of the center bore of the tool. This then was woven out with the fly-tying yarn using a sewing needle. The rim is a bit of a fake: normally the stakes would be bent back one over each other to produce a stable and decorative finishing. Here I made a double row of half-hitches with the weave, i.e. the fly-tying thread. Once this was finished, the ‚basket’ was soaked in wood stain and then a few dabs of matt varnish were applied to secure the weaving. The stakes with the exception of two on each side then were cut off flush with the rim. The remaining stakes were twisted into looped handles. Finally the stakes were cut around the hole in the bottom of tool. A bottom of the basket was faked by closing the hole with a good drop of white glue.
 

The finished fish-baskets
 
The baskets then were weathered using acrylics paint (umbra). After looking at the museum-picture, I noticed that I should paint onto the baskets the registration number of the boat - so that catch can be identified at the fish auction.
 
One may notice on the above photograph that in the meantime also the anchor, a grab, has been installed. Finding such small chain is a challenge, but I got something suitable from a Bavarian model railway supplier. While the links were nicely soldered and blackend, they were actually round. Anchor chains, however, have oval links. With a pair of pliers I slightly squashed the links into an oval shape.
 
wefalck

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting and liking my work, really appreciated. 
 
Hi Mark, well, after I found out that CA glue and solder don't like each other I first tinned a small spot on the dome and the end of the brace.  Then held the brace in my left hand with tweezers and tacked it in on the lid.  Then I could use a steel office file clamp as a heat sink and soldered the rest.  The one next to it I did in a similar fashion.  Duck soup, as they say.  Thank you for your compliment!
 
Hello Popeye, thank you,  Yes, it's a little tedious but with some patience it works.
 
Today I semi finished the hinges for the AA gun bun lids.  Some more tedious work, even more so then the lids because of the hinge pin holes that had to line up  and allow the pin to go trough the little copper tube, straight, so the lid would close evenly.  It too worked out okay and I'm actually ready to cement the ring with the center hinge tube to the styrene bun.  
I think that I'll secure the hinge pins with a dab of 5 minute epoxy and then paint them.  The epoxy should simulate the securing hardware.
 
I also started to modify the two AA guns so I can put the two hand wheels on them to allow the crew to rotate and train the guns on their target.  No, They are not really going to rotate but at least it'll look like the guns are close to being finished.  (No pics for that little project yet)
 

This is how the bottom portion of the hinge assembly starts, a strip of brass sheet the same width as the outer ring that fits over the gun bun. The hinge pin bracket will be made from a piece of this strip.
 

This is the completed hinge pin bracket.  The copper tube will be soldered to the top of this bracket.
 

Here are all the parts I need to finish the complete hinge assembly.  The bun lid that was made yesterday, the ring that was made last week, the little bracket, the copper tube and brass pin for the hinge.  Sorry, but I did not make a photographic sequence of events in assembling all this to the finished product, you'll laugh when you see it 
 

This is the completed AA gun lid assembly on the forward gun bin.  I just put the gun in the bin for fun.
 

This is another shot of the forward gun lid assembly.
 

This is the aft AA gun bun lid in the closed position.
 
Cheers,