Piet

Just so no one thinks I have been slacking off....
the upper shrouds are up finally on the main mast

 
And the rat lines begin

 
Since I have such a strong (bad) reaction to CA, I am using different glue, so all of this is a slower process then I like. I have to tie, then give the glue time to set before I can move on...at this rate, maybe the main mast will be done by next weekend

Now she's really looking like a yacht, Piet!
 
John

The counter frames went in, showing why I had to trim down the stern post a while back.  An oak block was glued in where the rudder tube would go in, to strengthen this area, and a slightly over sized hole drilled through it and the counter.

 
A brass tube was epoxied in with JB Weld.  A brass rrod taped to the sternpost behind a spacer made sure everything set up in proper alignment.
 
 

 
The rudder was cut from polycarbonate (Plexiglas) and given a brass rod rudder post that was glued and drifted to it with smaller brass rods.

 
A copper plate was cut to size with 4 holes; two for mounting, and two that are tapped for mounting the gudgeon plate.  This plate was inset into the boats heel, epoxied and screwed in place.  This way water can't seep into the plywood keel because every hole in the hull is lined with epoxy.
 
 
The gudgeon plate is attached with brass machine screws and is removable.
 
 
The rudder post slide up through the rudder tube at the counter.  The tiller collar will hold it from falling out, the tube keeps it from sliding further up.  The gudgeon plate holds the heel of the rudder to the hull and serves as the lower hinge point against the forces the rudder will encounter.  Removing the rudder entails removing the gudgeon plate and the tiller, then the rudder drops right out.
 
 
The visible area around the rudder hole was painted black and the counter planked up with bass sheet.  All the wood framing here was painted in epoxy, and each plank was painted with epoxy onit's under side to make sure moisture inside here wouldn't get into the wood.   Later this was primed and transom knees were installed.
 
 
Using bass sheet again, I built the cabin trunk, the visible part that is in essence, a lid.  It's details, molding, skylight, compass box, hatch, etc; were all made from the wood of the Pride's top mast I was given earlier.  Looking at one of my pictures where the cabin can be seen, I think this wood worked out fairly well for this application.  It wasn't strong enough for anything else, like the tiller.
 
 

 
I used that "might-be-mahogany" wood used on the bits to make the hatch coamings.
 
 
I also used it to make the tiller.  You may have noticed there is no space to speak of inside the counter where I could hide control linkages for the steering.  Instead I'll actually be using the tiller to steer the model, so it will have to have some strength.
 

Thank you all for hitting the like button, it's good to know you like what I have done!

 

John and Bob, thanks for stopping buy and your kind words.

 

I have been plugging along at my O 19 submarine and many chores around the house but I can at least show a few more pics of the Friendship sloop.  I made the cabin roof from my home-build plywood.  The pics show that I also made two skylights and the entry hatch slide rails.  Some explanation will be added below the pics.  As mentioned in a previous post, I glued-up the veneer for the plywood on a formed piece of hard foam.  It worked like a charm and fit just nice.  At this stage of the game it was ready to be primed.

 



What is not seen are additional support beams for the cabin roof.  The entry hatch slides in grooves I carved in the rails.  I made 4 brass sliders bend 90 degrees and fastened to the sides of the hatch.  There was enough thickness to the plywood where I could use regular sewing pins as nails in addition to CA cement.  I also made and glued trim slats to the edges of the roof, except for the front edge.  

 



Another view from starboard looking forward.  

 



A view looking aft from starboard.  The bowsprit is already made and fitted but the attaching hardware must still be made..  It's just resting now, you can see it laying on the build dock.  There is also some hardware laying on the build dock I was playing with.

 



Port side view looking aft.

 

Cheers,

Thank you all for hitting the like button, it's good to know you like what I have done!

 

John and Bob, thanks for stopping buy and your kind words.

 

I have been plugging along at my O 19 submarine and many chores around the house but I can at least show a few more pics of the Friendship sloop.  I made the cabin roof from my home-build plywood.  The pics show that I also made two skylights and the entry hatch slide rails.  Some explanation will be added below the pics.  As mentioned in a previous post, I glued-up the veneer for the plywood on a formed piece of hard foam.  It worked like a charm and fit just nice.  At this stage of the game it was ready to be primed.

 



What is not seen are additional support beams for the cabin roof.  The entry hatch slides in grooves I carved in the rails.  I made 4 brass sliders bend 90 degrees and fastened to the sides of the hatch.  There was enough thickness to the plywood where I could use regular sewing pins as nails in addition to CA cement.  I also made and glued trim slats to the edges of the roof, except for the front edge.  

 



Another view from starboard looking forward.  

 



A view looking aft from starboard.  The bowsprit is already made and fitted but the attaching hardware must still be made..  It's just resting now, you can see it laying on the build dock.  There is also some hardware laying on the build dock I was playing with.

 



Port side view looking aft.

 

Cheers,

Thank you all for hitting the like button, it's good to know you like what I have done!

 

John and Bob, thanks for stopping buy and your kind words.

 

I have been plugging along at my O 19 submarine and many chores around the house but I can at least show a few more pics of the Friendship sloop.  I made the cabin roof from my home-build plywood.  The pics show that I also made two skylights and the entry hatch slide rails.  Some explanation will be added below the pics.  As mentioned in a previous post, I glued-up the veneer for the plywood on a formed piece of hard foam.  It worked like a charm and fit just nice.  At this stage of the game it was ready to be primed.

 



What is not seen are additional support beams for the cabin roof.  The entry hatch slides in grooves I carved in the rails.  I made 4 brass sliders bend 90 degrees and fastened to the sides of the hatch.  There was enough thickness to the plywood where I could use regular sewing pins as nails in addition to CA cement.  I also made and glued trim slats to the edges of the roof, except for the front edge.  

 



Another view from starboard looking forward.  

 



A view looking aft from starboard.  The bowsprit is already made and fitted but the attaching hardware must still be made..  It's just resting now, you can see it laying on the build dock.  There is also some hardware laying on the build dock I was playing with.

 



Port side view looking aft.

 

Cheers,

The ship building and preparing will reach a point where I will need to start using the bottle in the planning and prep. I will need this round bottle to be stable so I should at this point build the base for the bottle and I may as well build the base I intend to display the model in rather than make a temporary jig that would be discarded later. A square bottle is nice since it will sit on the workbench but this one has the word "KRAKEN" embossed on it and two nice loops (presumably so that it may better be grasped with tentacles) so I want it to sit exactly at the right position. I need two brackets to conform to the profile of the bottle so I trace the bottle onto the timber I want to use and cut out the arcs. I learned the trick of finessing the cut to fit the bottle by wrapping some sandpaper around the bottle and sanding into the rough cut to make a nice fit even nicer.

Hello Guys,
 
today I did a little brass work on the hawse holes. Following the plans of Marquardt I used in 3/16 scale for the hawse hole a brass tube of 2mm. For the side holes I used a brass tube of 1.5mm.
hopefully the hawse hohle is large enough. Marqqardt wrote in his book a rule for calculating anchors on small vessels in the early 19th century. For vessels of approx 60 tons you need to divide it with factor 17. That means the main anchor for the Mercury had a wight of approx 3.5 cwt. The length of the shaft can be calculated by dividing the breadth of 17ft 6in by 4/10th. For the Mercury it would be 210in (533.4cm) /10*4= 213.36 cm (84in). In 3/16 scale it is equal to 3.34 cm (1.31in). An anchor cable for vessels smaller than 300 tons Steel provided a figure of 90 fathoms (1ftm = 6ft=1,83m). That means the length of the anchor cable of the mercury was approx 165m. Marquardt also explains how to calculate the thickness of anchor cables in circumstances that shall be 1/2in for every foot on the breadth of the vessel. That means 17.5ft*1/2.in = 8.75in=222.25mm. In 3/16 scale it has to be 3.47mm/3.14 (pie) = 1.1mm diameter. This is exactly the size that is measurable on Marquardts drawings.
 
 
Cheers,
Daniel

After two hours,, there is bright new forecastle deck with space under to put there stuff what have to be there



 
 
Obviously some mistakes can be resolved ....

Hello everyone.
 
Hereby I will restart my build of the Hohenzollern model by the plans/book of Heinrich Winter.
The project was started late 2009 based upon the plans of the Mamoli-Friesland kit but I changed
over to Winter's one. 
 
Jack is the name, The Netherlands my homecountry.
 
I will not post updates from the past, I start with new pics the way she is now.
(for those interested in the start of the project I can give a link to a Dutch forum if you like)
 
 
The latest update from the stern, not the easiest part
 







Jack

thanks Mark
 
to secure the little stairs for the third deck more securely I drilled some holes and filled with a thinned down toothpick.

 
the stairs will only be glued on top of these little dowels so that they come up with the third deck if I ever have to remove it for repairs

 
just waiting to finish all the stairs and touch them up with white paint

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 5 – Keel Structure
So, finally some real work and some pictures.
 
Young America’s keel was sided 16” by 31 inches deep.  The main body of the keel was two tiered.  The upper tier was 15” deep and the lower was 12” deep.  In all of these posts I will use the word “was” rather freely, since original scantlings lists do not exist.  “Was” will mean based on the best data and/or reasonable assumptions.  In general, I relied heavily on the more complete data for Challenge.  I think that extrapolation is a reasonable approach.  One builders sidings were not all that different from one ship to the next – unless the first was not successful.  Under the two main members is a 4” shoe – a sacrificial protective covering of the main members and boltheads..  This was installed just before launch by removing blocks under the keel slipping it in and fastening it.
 
I will not dwell on my sawmill operations.  These were well covered in the opening parts of the Naiad posts.  The first picture shows some blanks for the keel members and a piece of the swiss pear material from a few steps upstream in the process.
 

 
The pear was cut into the piece shown at the top from a roughly 2” thick by 12” wide by x feet long piece.  The planks were then cut to rough size on a bandsaw and reduced to final thickness (16”) on a thickness sander.  One edge was then planed straight using the small modeling plane at the top – so the final pieces could be accurately ripped to size.  The next picture showns all of the pieces needed to make the keel – cut to final width and depth.
 

 
The members were then cut to final length based on the drawing shown above.  Because of the large number of bolts through the actual keel, placement of joints relative to each other, masts, etc., the lengths had to be laid out carefully beforehand to avoid interferences.  I did this on the drawing for the model, even though many of the invisible bolts will not be installed.  The next picture shows a typical joint of the type used in the top two tiers.
 

 
The joints are hook scarphs with wedge driven into the center.  They are identical except for size to the larger keelson scarph shown on the drawing.  That view shows the typical bolting for one of these joints.  It also shows one large bolt through the keel for each floor and another longer bolt through the entire keel/keelson centered on the frame timbers aft of the floors.  The next picture shows one of the lower tier joints being glued.
 

 
Darkened Titebond wood glue is used to give a subtle highlighting to the joints.  The two parts were clamped with light pressure, the wedge shown was driven through to make the ends butt, and finally the clamps were fully tightend.  Excess glue was washed off with clean water – hence the darkened area.
 
With the lower tier fully assembled, the upper tier was added on piece at a time as shown in the next picture.
 

 
To keep the final two-tier assembly straight, a straightedge and the flat top of the shipway was used to clamp the pieces.  Waxed paper was used underneath to prevent gluing to the shipway.  The next picture shows some joints in the final three layer structure.
 
 

 
The final picture shows the assembled keel lying on the shipway drawing.  It is an actual 37” long.  Full length keels make for pretty boring photos, but here it is.
 

 
The next step will be to form the rabbet on either side of the top – at least partially.  The top corners of the final rabbets are quite sharp and fragile and will be subject to damage during erection of the frames.  However, I want to cut at least some of the rabbet now so water stops can be inserted before framing,  but after the bulk of the rabbet has been scraped out.  This will be discussed further in the next parts.
 

Ed

thanks Robbyn but still have lots to do
 
thanks Sjors I had a look and see if I can figure it out now
 
still working on finishing the first deck railings
but I also have started on the top railings around the stairs
also the benches I made ages ago are now finding their place

 

The subdeck's underside will get painted with epoxy which will seal it as well as glue it to the deck beams.  A layer of 1/32" bass strips about 1/4" wide will serve as the deck planking.  It will be died a combination of stains to approximate the color of Prides original decking.  These will be set in slow-cure epoxy when the time comes.
   
 
All that's a ways off yet, as there's still things to be done in the hull before the deck can go on...
 
For instance, the access hatch has to be framed and cut out.  A pair of posts were put in near the mast partners between the deck beams and the keel - these are compression posts and should help prevent deformation of the deck, just in case.
 
 
 
 
 
 
The motor mount frame was painted and the mounting plate was painted with the red spray paint from earlier.  It was then epoxied into the hull.

 
I was volunteering at the Naval Academy Museum model shop and once night one of the other fellas brought in a handful of splinters.  Seems the Pride had her fore-top-mast replaced at Richardson's Yard in Maryland and these pieces came from the old spar.  That means they were on the boat when I was.  Now to figure out how to incorporate them into the model.

 
The bitts were made from some dunnage found on a dock that looks like it may be some sort of mahogany.  It's hard and it matches the color of the originals pretty well.
Note the subdeck is marked with locations of deck objects, such as hatches.  On the access hatch is the scale main hatchway - which obviouslt wouldn't have been large enough for the model.  On the right of the photo is the engine room hatch.  The small rectangle on the left of the deck in a box that the galley stack pokes out of.  The fellow standing there is me, in 1:20 scale.  It's a picture of me from about a year before my time on Pride and serves to show scale in the photos.
The hatchway marked in the right photo is the focs'le hatch.
 

Keith, John, Thanks.  With encouragement like yours I know I’ll make it.
 
The first thing was to decide how to build this boat.   Solid hull, I don’t consider myself a good enough carver.  Plank on frame, why make frames when no one will see them.  I finally settled on plank on bulkhead.  So it was back to CAD.   Draw every fifth station to show the deck chamber and a slot to fit onto the new keel drawing.  Cut them out of 1/16" plywood and glue it all together with the deck.  Now it's on to the planking.
 
Bob
 

 

 

I really like Michael's "definition" for what I am doing.
It's actually quite true.
 
So....I did some more "juggling the order" and decided to carve the figurehead. It's not that I don't like planking, it's just a tad monotonous compared to other tasks.
 
The figurehead is in 2 pieces and was hand carved from a small block of basswood. The scalpel in the photo is for size comparison.
 
The figurehead appears larger than it really is when dry fitted on the stem because of the angle of the photograph. (That being said - it is probably a little off scale, but I'm happy with and will leave it as is.)
 

 

 

Hello friends, and thank you all for the likes, wow!  really appreciate the encouragement it gives me. 
 
Today, after I mowed the back yard, I did some more "steel plating" on the sub.  Tedious work but I think it's beginning to look more like a steel boat. 
 
So, I'll share a few pics of the difficult area, the stern end.
 

I had to stick the prop shaft assembly back on for the picture, looks better I think     I try to follow the layout of the steel plates as much as possible from the photos I have.  These plates are all in not pressure sensitive area, i.e. they are not the pressure hull.  The plate with the oval thingy is the stern torpedo door.  That "thingy" looks like a hand-hold or to assist in closing the door manually.
 

A straight side shot.  I may or may not cement paper to the rudder/keel brace.  I also don't know yet how to finish the aft end of the prop shaft tear drop thingy.  Well, does it look like steel plates now?
 

Looking towards the stern.
 

Looking down on the hull. I am concentrating on the starboard side and do that first.  I'll have to mirror the port side to it.  The difficult part is from what you see here towards the stern but the bottom is done upside down.  The rest is on the build dock, it's steady that way.
 
Cheers 

Hello, Some pictures of the old lost forum.
 
Isalbert

Popeye,
For you, anything always! My fellow yankee inspiration:
 
I'm in the middle of applying "canvas" to the boat deck.

So, once more in go the clamps.  This time, making sure I measure from the right point, I used a different approach.  I laid in two layers of 1/8" thick strips, then installed the deck beams - now recut thinner - butted to the clamp.  Another layer of 1/8" strip was installed between each beam.  Mast partners were installed, then framing for the main cabin and the access hatch.  The access hatch doesn't correspond to any hatch actually on the boat - none of them was large enough at this scale to give me the access inside I needed.
 
 
   
 
The inner cabin trunk is framed from 1/8" plywood that came from a cigar box, or something like that.  This isn't the cabin you'll see, but an inner sleve the outer cabin trunk will slide over, like a box lid.  This will help keep out water.

 
Card stock was used to lay out the deck and make a pattern.  The sub deck was cut from 3/16" luan plywood.  It was kerfed underneath to help it flex in two directions; sheer and camber.
   
 
After giving the top strake a coat of black, I started marking the spar plan with 1:20 scale dimensions in preparation of making the spars.

 
I made a mounting plate for the motor from an electrical box cover plate.  The motor came from an old cordless drill.
 
 
I was getting concerned that a section of bulwark might get broken off by some big clumsy oaf, like me, so I put a rail on to connect it all.  This isn't the finish cap rail, but more of a structural member.  This rail will actually be in two parts.  This part is the inner part mounted flush with the outboard side of the hull.  It's glued and trenailed (wooden toothpicks) into the top of the planking.  An outer part will be applied later, bring the rail to it's correct width.

 
 
 
And some more paint.

Fortunately when I got the plans from Gilmer, I got the full set with structural details,  especially a cross section of the structure; because it's not at all easy to tell where the top of the deck is.  This apparently was a problem found by some company doing flooding analysis on her, they were given a profile and not knowing where the deck was, calculated to the top of the rail.
 
As it is, the top of the deck is level with the top of the wale, which was the next piece to be installed.

 
I had a length of screen molding we used as a batten, or spline, when laying out Mark's skiff on the plywood.  It was precisely the width of the model's wales.
 
 
With the wales on, the prop notch cut, and the dagger board trunk installed, hull was ready to get some paint.
First, a coat of primer.

 
Then I found some spray paint that pretty closely matched the color of Pride's bottom paint
 
 
I thought I had a picture of Pride out of the water where the color of her bottom could be seen, but nearly all my shots of her hauled out are black & white newspaper photos.  This image is from 1980 and you can see a little of her bottom color.

 
I hand painted some flat black above the waterline.

 
The wale widens forward at the hawse pipes, this was installed next, but I'm not drilling the hawse holes yet.
 
 
Again, referring to the cross-section, the top of the deck extends to the top of the wale.  This is capped with a waterway log, which itself has a cap.  There's light planking above this to the cap rail.  The portion of the waterway cap that's exposed outboard forms something of a channel down the boat's side, and this part of the cap is painted red.

 
I cut some 1/16" square strips and sanded them 1/2 round.  This was applied to the outside of the hull to represent the outboard portion of the waterway cap rail.

 
At the top of this channel between the wale and the waterway cap, snugged up under the cap are the channels.  This were more white pine, thicker at the hull and tapered to about half their thickness outboard.  One was installed.  Looking back, I'm not sure why I only did one, but

 
Some black paint touched up the faux waterway rail and the channel below it.  Then put a coat of white on the bulwarks, and cut the gunports.
 
 
The wing transoms and fashion pieces were fabricated and installed, and the facny piece and moldings on the transom..
 
 
Something didn't look right with the deck clamp, and upon investigation, I found it was off at the bow and stern.  It was too well attached to just detach and move, so I pulled it out completely.  Had I installed the wale first, I could have more accurately gauged where to install the deck clamp (minus the thickness of the plywood sub-deck and decking).
 
Finding a small container of red paint turned out to be a challenge.  I wound up with a $2 can of spray paint and proceeded to paint the waterway cap.
 
 
Finally, the rest of the channels were installed.

 
And everything painted
 

With the hull glassed, I began to install the deck clamps.  These were of the same pine used to plank the hull, only 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick.  One later was epoxied to the hull.
The placement of the deck beams was determined based oh hatch locations, mast partners, etc.
While my friend Mark was building his skiff outside the shop, I put some of his leftover epoxy into the bilge of Pride's hull to fill crevasses, seal, and strengthen the garboard area.
   
 
There are things that should be done to the keel while it's still just a flat piece of wood, and before it's a permanent part of the hull.  Cutting the cut-out for the propeller is one such thing.

 
I wasn't sure how I was going to attach the external ballast until I saw some Newfie schooner models as big as Pride that used a simple fin with about 15-20 pounds of lead in a bulb.  Going with the idea, I started building a dagger-board box for the fin to slip in to.  The sides are 3/16 luan plywood, glassed on the inside faces, with a pine separator epoxied on fore and aft.
The remaining portion of the aluminum sheet I cut Constellation's yard trusses from will be the fin.
 
 
This oscillating tool I got from Harbor Freight for $10 made quick work of cutting the hole for the trunk to fit in to.  This, of course, is another thing that should be done to the keel before it's part of the hull.
 
 
Portions of the form at that station became internal braces for the dagger-board trunk.  They would be epoxied in.

 
The trunk was itself epoxied in.  After sanding, some glass cloth was laid over it to fair it into the hull and the keel.  Anything not covered with cloth was painted with resin.

 
The trunk got a cap from a bit of cherry I had around and a motor mount was fashioned from one of the forms.

 
A hole was drilled at the center of the trunk along the keel and a brass tube was epoxied into it.  When it set, I cut the tub flush inside and outside.  A matching hole was drilled in the fin, where a brass machine screw and nut would hold the fin to the boat.  The tube protects and seals the end grain of the trunks plywood where the screw will go through.
 
 
I began to fit the deck beams, but these seem thicker than they need to be.  They're like this on Constellation, but there's a lot more head-room inside Constellation compared to Pride where space is at a premium.

In this episode we have progressed a little further.  I got to the point of setting the boat in primer.  I used a good indoor/outdoor primer I still had on the shelf from another project.
I also made the helm and the bedding.  I used thin sheets of Styrofoam for the mattresses, an old dishtowel for the blankets and tissue paper for the sheets.  
 
Here are  few pics of the sloop.
 

The helm, still in the rough. The diameter is 45 mm, the spokes are toothpicks, the spoke handles are epoxy wood filler and the rims are file folder paper.  The hub is a modified wooden bead.  The finished helm will be shown in a later issue.
 

The primed hull.  I stuck the helm on temporarily and made and installed the forecastle and stern deck hatch covers.
 

Looking aft with the bunks dressed up.  I pulled the starboard bunk out ready to climb in for a nap.  The table top on that side is folded down get access.  Oh yes, I also made the pillows and the pillow cases.
 

Another view looking towards the stern.  I removed the helm to show the helm shaft and the stop.  There are two, one on each side of the steering box, that way the shaft is not going anywhere.
 

A close-up look of the aft part of the cabin with the head.  I finished the little locker in the head for the typical supplies one needs in that area.
 
Cheers, 

In this episode we have progressed a little further.  I got to the point of setting the boat in primer.  I used a good indoor/outdoor primer I still had on the shelf from another project.
I also made the helm and the bedding.  I used thin sheets of Styrofoam for the mattresses, an old dishtowel for the blankets and tissue paper for the sheets.  
 
Here are  few pics of the sloop.
 

The helm, still in the rough. The diameter is 45 mm, the spokes are toothpicks, the spoke handles are epoxy wood filler and the rims are file folder paper.  The hub is a modified wooden bead.  The finished helm will be shown in a later issue.
 

The primed hull.  I stuck the helm on temporarily and made and installed the forecastle and stern deck hatch covers.
 

Looking aft with the bunks dressed up.  I pulled the starboard bunk out ready to climb in for a nap.  The table top on that side is folded down get access.  Oh yes, I also made the pillows and the pillow cases.
 

Another view looking towards the stern.  I removed the helm to show the helm shaft and the stop.  There are two, one on each side of the steering box, that way the shaft is not going anywhere.
 

A close-up look of the aft part of the cabin with the head.  I finished the little locker in the head for the typical supplies one needs in that area.
 
Cheers, 

Thanks to everyone for your likes!
 
@ Remco, Minwax wipe on poly? Yes, I have heard about this stuff but never used it.  Sounds like a doable thing. I don't even know where to buy it locally.  But there is always Internet 
May have to buy a small can and give it a try.  I have some time yet.
 
@ Jan, hello and good to hear from you. Good idea to contact Paul and see what he uses.  Tanks for the hint 
 
@ Freek, also good to hear from you and the info on all them rivets.  Hey, I know all about "tjetten", old Dutch spelling though, in Bahasa Indonesia it is now "cat."  In my aircraft repair business I was "orang tjet."  Which is actually "pelukis."  Nah, I'm not going into that kind of detail to put a gezillion rivets on this thing.  I'm looking forward to the video on the torpedo launch   
 
Just watched the World Cup qualifying match between USA and Mexico.  USA won 2 to 0   
 
I'm plugging along with the plating between outside chores, the Admiral is getting antsy to get the mildew of the house, walkways and the fence.  Then there are the weeds, weeds and more weeds     But I still manage to place a few plates on the boat.
 
Cheers,