michael101

Hello Wallace

it will help you a lot !! just be shore that all is exact 90 degrees and also in the straight line !!!

take your time and do it very carefully !

if you need any help you can send me p.m

Best regards,

Michael.

stunning work !!!!!! 

you always doing the best  !!!!

hello there,

i had this kit before ... (and i turn it back ... i payed around 1200 dollar so it make me upset to dill with the bulkheads problems of that kit ,but dont worry about that ... you can fix all the problems like i said i turn it back only because i payed a lot on it .... )

a few tips about the bulkheads problems 

1. before you will start gluing and fixing the bulkheads ... just make sure that all the bulkheads are symmetrical in both sides you can use a card for that  (dont trust the plans even at the plans its not symmetrical  )

2.be sure to fix all the bulkheads on the same level ! (i mean to make them on the exact level on the deck line) , im not remember if the deck line its a flat line or there is a curve ... just check in in your plans and if there is a curve line just measure the distance from the bottom to each deck line in every frame ... and do the same position when you will glue the frames on the keel ,

after all ... you will notice that there is some bulkheads that going in from the planks line and some of them going out ,

now take your time to fix them (even if it will take you forever .... dont jump to the second process until you will finish this process !!!!)

Best regards 

Michael.

very nice work!!! 

perfecto  

Beutifule work ! Well done 👍🏻 

Cant see the difrent between MDF to a cardboard both of them was a wood in the past... 

And that is for sure the MDF sometimes its more stable even from solid wood because it made in mold...
but all this its good until the humidity get contact with this new material then it getting a critical damage ..... and it not worth the time to work few years in a model that will gate a critical damage in the future

Btw in Israel they made a new MDF that is much stronger than the normal one and it didnt past the test of our army ... (and im not talking about guns ... just talking about office desk of the army)

For sure it is the Caldercraft !!!

Its expensive but It's worth the money (every cent )

just buy it without thinking too much ..

i was in the same situation before i bought this kit 

and thanks God I am very pleased !!! 

You can follow my build log and if you will have some questions you can p.m me

3 hours ago, amateur said:

Why not? From a kit-makers perspective, it is the ideal material: it doesn't warp as plywood does, it is easy to handle and it is cheap.

 

Jan

because its not wood ...

also in the future you cant know what can happen to the model due the humidity  temperature act.. 

better to pay a little bit more and to work with wood 

but again its my opinion  

Regards,

Michael. 

Im also working only with the Steel files

strange,

btw also this kit made of 5mm MDF 

cant understand that 

If I remember well the 1/64 kit it made of MDF (keel and bukheads) not sure ,

but if so .... 

it much better to build it from plywood and If the material is not important just build it from plastic 

anyway for my opinion if the keel and bulkheads not made of plywood its not a wooden ship... 

in my country we called to MDF - a cardboard

best regards ,

Michael.

You are lucky to have in order lime wood

if you want search in my build log of the victory some method on how to bend the planks  

Hello Ronald ,

I bought the tools in my country - Israel and most of them are Proxxon 

but you can find in this link dealers of Proxxon in almost every country

https://www.proxxon.com/en/dealer/search-dealer-germany.php

Best regards 

Michael.

That is true Matti , good idea about the iron angles !!!

when i bought my plywood i took the strone one i dont know the name in english but they used to make doors  from this plywood its a bit expensive but it worth the money btw i think it cams also from finland  

Best Regards

Michael.

The jig i made it without plans ,

You just need to take make a straight line on the base and then connect the supports (90 degrees supports) between the bulkheads, you can use the keel as a guid when you connecting the supports the only thing that you need to worry about its to have a straight plywood for the base it will help you later when you will measure the distance between the bulkheads to the base for making sure that all the bulkhead are on the same level ! , and also you must be careful about the supports to make them exact 90 degrees for both sides it will help you to check the level of the bulkheads by measuring from the top of the bulkhead to the base in both sides 
Be carful when you making the jig and take your time , its the must important process for the all body of your ship !!!
Best regards,
Michael.

Very Good news !!!!!

i just love mamoli !!! My first kit ever was the bounty 1/100 of mamoli , im very glad that your project came thru ❤️

Best regards 

Michael.

Hello Ronald , Thank you for your coment  

about your questions , for the first one i have used mascking tape and paint with airbrush , 

about your secound question im not sure that im understanding your question can you repet ?

As always !!!  You doing beutifule work !!!

Thank you Robert  

Thank you Matti  

Amazing work !!!!

And here is some pictures of the currenlty stage:

The plank that coevering the corner took me long time, from misuring untill gluing and holding hem in place ...

For tapering im using a micro wood plan , and also (for the inside taper, in the very back of the ship the planks going narrow until the last bulkhead then they going thick again until they meating the transom...)

im using the routher table of proxxon by conecting a sander instad of the miller

Hello friends,  Here is a little update  

First I’m posting some pictures of the process , Then I’ll post pictures of the currently stage ...