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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in Shaping bulkheads for planking
thank you Mark
i made my block Right now it took me about twenty minutes :
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in Shaping bulkheads for planking
HELLO EVERYONE
i see this tutorial on the internet perfect and easy to build !!!!
but im just need the Measurement for our hobby i guess 20 cm long , 7 cm wide , 4 CM Thickness .
but correct me if im wrong
here is the link :http://forums.toymakingplans.com/post/udies-diy-block-plane-sander-7226203
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from GuntherMT in Shaping bulkheads for planking
thank you Mark
i made my block Right now it took me about twenty minutes :
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michael101 got a reaction from dgbot in Shaping bulkheads for planking
thank you Mark
i made my block Right now it took me about twenty minutes :
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michael101 got a reaction from AntonyUK in Shaping bulkheads for planking
thank you Mark
i made my block Right now it took me about twenty minutes :
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in Shaping bulkheads for planking
thank you Mark
i made my block Right now it took me about twenty minutes :
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in Shaping bulkheads for planking
HELLO EVERYONE
i see this tutorial on the internet perfect and easy to build !!!!
but im just need the Measurement for our hobby i guess 20 cm long , 7 cm wide , 4 CM Thickness .
but correct me if im wrong
here is the link :http://forums.toymakingplans.com/post/udies-diy-block-plane-sander-7226203
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Tadeusz43 in Shaping bulkheads for planking
HELLO EVERYONE
i see this tutorial on the internet perfect and easy to build !!!!
but im just need the Measurement for our hobby i guess 20 cm long , 7 cm wide , 4 CM Thickness .
but correct me if im wrong
here is the link :http://forums.toymakingplans.com/post/udies-diy-block-plane-sander-7226203
best regards
Michael.
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michael101 reacted to ZevEisenberg in Rattlesnake by ZevEisenberg - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Finished the gun port framing. Got a lot of help from JPett’s build log. In the closeups, you can see the arrows and triangles that I drew onto the parts to keep track of how they were supposed to be oriented so I didn’t lose track between bending, cutting, and gluing.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in fairing technique
hello Jan
the frames are very bad cut
even the drawing are not Symmetric
Nigel but how can i know if the first and the last one are ok maybe they are too high and the rest are ok?
i don't know where to start , i was thinking to start from the middle I mean to work on 4-5 frames from the middle to Fill the frames with lime strip and than to go forward and backward is it sounds ok?
thank you Michael. -
michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in fairing technique
hello Jan
the frames are very bad cut
even the drawing are not Symmetric
Nigel but how can i know if the first and the last one are ok maybe they are too high and the rest are ok?
i don't know where to start , i was thinking to start from the middle I mean to work on 4-5 frames from the middle to Fill the frames with lime strip and than to go forward and backward is it sounds ok?
thank you Michael. -
michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in fairing technique
here is example: (i tried to do like Antony advice but i don't know where to start...)
side:
down the frames:
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in fairing technique
thank you Antony and Nigel
Nigel its not going to help me .... like you Sade even the plans are not symmetrical
for example frame 9 has 20 cm wide frame 10 has 19.8 wide and frame 11 has 20 cm wide so the solution is or to fill up frame 10 with 2 mm or to sand frames 9 and 11
and to be honest if one side will be a bit fat from the other side even with 3-4 mm of different no buddy can see that in our case that the frames has 20 cm wide
my problem is only to make the frames level with the other frames at the same side then i will do the other side
thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Canute in fairing technique
Hi thank you for the answer
But I'm not worry about the center the different May be 1-2 mm for frame(and the frame have 20cm wide )
My problem is only to level the frame with the other frames
i know how to do the basic fairing but im Afraid to make an error
if someone have pictures of the steps its will be grate
thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in fairing technique
thank you Antony and Nigel
Nigel its not going to help me .... like you Sade even the plans are not symmetrical
for example frame 9 has 20 cm wide frame 10 has 19.8 wide and frame 11 has 20 cm wide so the solution is or to fill up frame 10 with 2 mm or to sand frames 9 and 11
and to be honest if one side will be a bit fat from the other side even with 3-4 mm of different no buddy can see that in our case that the frames has 20 cm wide
my problem is only to make the frames level with the other frames at the same side then i will do the other side
thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in fairing technique
Hi thank you for the answer
But I'm not worry about the center the different May be 1-2 mm for frame(and the frame have 20cm wide )
My problem is only to level the frame with the other frames
i know how to do the basic fairing but im Afraid to make an error
if someone have pictures of the steps its will be grate
thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from AntonyUK in fairing technique
Hi Antony thank you
I have no problem with the keel
Like i sade they dident cut properly the frames at the factory
about your way to firing its nice i did the same with my first kit but now im working on a very large ship
may be i need to Divide the ship to 3 sections and to work part part....
but im sure that there is a way to do it ..
thank you
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in table saw
thank you all!!!
Jim i send you email back thank you!
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from thibaultron in table saw
hello
I have a few questions before I buy a table saw
1 . can i cut strips from sheets by Proxxon (fet)
2 . do i need to buy only mini saw for that work or maybe can i buy real table saw like bosch , makita , dewalt ect.
i can't buy the byrnes table saw because I'm from israel and i tried lot of time to send email to hem but never received answer....
anyway in my country i can Choose between proxxon the fet model or to buy "real" table saw
i mean the big one...
By the way the price of the proxxon its expensive i can bay
kind regards
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from mtaylor in anchor rigging
Thank you for the answer
But to be honest I don't want to use any kind of paper it's my first build and I'm working on that mor than one year and I never used other alternative than wood or metal
So I don't want to start using that alternative in the last part of my model
In the official pic of mamoli they post that pic
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/716Uq29HV4L._SL1196_.jpg
And you can see that they used ropes on that part of wood the question is for what is used for , is it for making the wood stronger like the ropes on the masts or to making that heavier , and if it's for making that stronger I guess that it's ok to use rope like in the official model of mamoli
Michael.
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michael101 got a reaction from Aussie048 in Another rigging tool
thank you!!!!
amazing idea !!!!!!!
I did it now and its fantastic !!!!
here is some pics...
By the way do you putt some glue after you tie the rope on the belaying pin ?
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michael101 got a reaction from RichardG in Another rigging tool
thank you!!!!
amazing idea !!!!!!!
I did it now and its fantastic !!!!
here is some pics...
By the way do you putt some glue after you tie the rope on the belaying pin ?
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michael101 got a reaction from Tadeusz43 in Another rigging tool
thank you!!!!
amazing idea !!!!!!!
I did it now and its fantastic !!!!
here is some pics...
By the way do you putt some glue after you tie the rope on the belaying pin ?