Ryland Craze

Take a peek at page one of my build log (link below my signature).  I used 11 strakes of planking and I spiled them...no lateral bending.  Look at where the fore end of the garboard strake terminates.  If it rises up into the stem then the fore ends of the rest of the strakes will be too narrow.  A good exercise would be to draw in the line of planking on the bulkheads.  Do not let the width of any of the strakes get narrower than 50% at the stem.  Then, make a template for the garboard strake based on the lowest line you have drawn in.  You will end up with a strake that is shaped more like your upper drawing that terminates just anterior to the keel scarf.

More pictures of some rigging.
 

Here are some pictures of the rigging.
 


 
I serve my rigging with 80wt thread.
 

Rudder and Transom Decoration:
 
I have had the rudder mostly complete for some time, but I have been holding off on installing it, because I just did not feel up to the task of fabricating gudgeons and pintles.  So I decide not to do that.  I have created simulated gudgeons, but there are no pintles on this model.  For the sake of durability, I decided to pin the rudder to the stern post using three, 0.072" brass rods.  The rods were inserted into pre-drilled holes in the rudder, then used to mark the locations in the stern post.  Once those positions were located, corresponding holes were drilled in the stern post.  Everything was then press fit together.  The small rods were just flexible enough to allow for some fine tuning to get the rudder straight.  
 

 

 
Before I hung the rudder, I decided that I would create a mortise in the rudder head to accept the tiller when it is installed.  I used a drill bit that was the correct size, then used a 2mm micro chisel to square the hole.  Initially I only made the mortise a little more than half the depth of the rudder head, but then decided to go the whole way through, to allow the tiller tenon to pass through the rudder head to be fidded on the after side.
 
 

 

 
I also installed the carved moldings along the transom.  I decide to use the kit provided castings, as I do not feel the call to learn carving at this point.  I started by cleaning the castings up with a burr grinder and added some detail.
 

 
Next I painted them.  In order to give them maximum effect, I painted them with a three tone scheme.  A base color, a slightly darker color for the low spots, and a slightly lighter color for the high spots.  This provides the piece with added depth, and makes it look closer to carved wood.
 

 
Finally I attached it to the transom.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Finally finished the planking while watching the Super Bowl this past Sunday night.  Now the really fun part begins.
 

 

 

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

I feel as if I am looking at the actual ship.  I was aboard the Morgan at the end of April when she was docked at Mystic Seaport and several other times since 2010 during her restoration.  You have made an excellent reproduction of the actual ship.  I hope that I can achieve your level of craftsmanship.

Twelve Pounder Chase Guns:
 
One of the first things that I was able to do after life started to slow down a little bit, was to start on two really small models.  I purchased a gun carriage kit form Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company.  I also purchased the beautifully turned brass 12 pounders to go with them.  I had so little time to spend on modeling in March, April and May, that these little models gave me the 5 minute fix that I needed every so often to keep me involved in the hobby.
 
I was very pleased with the products offered by the Syren Ship Model Company.  I have also since had the opportunity to try their blocks and rope, which were of equal quality.
 

 
I bought these pieces to replace the kit provided 12 pounders, though the kit long guns really are not that bad compared to the carronades that are provided.  I made the decision to use an all turned brass armament as a matter of taste, and as a matter or accuracy in the case of the carronades.
 
The downloadable instructions on the Syren Ship Model Company's website were easy to follow, and provided a clear path to not only put the pieces together, but also to add a few details to make the finished carriages all the more realistic.  Another nice touch, is that the carriage kit comes with a few pieces of boxwood stock to make pieces such as the quoin and it handle.
 
I used a 1/16" square piece chucked into my rotary tool, and a small file to produce the tiny handles.
 

 

 

 
Next I filed the quoins to shape, then drilled the correct size hole in the back of the quoin to accept the handle.
 

 

 
I also added a few of the details suggested in the downloadable directions, such as simulated bolt heads, and the suggestion of a two piece carriage side made by scoring a line across the piece.  You will notice in the picture of the completed carriage, that one of the "bolts" came through the inside of the carriage.  I have since fixed the problem, being a "bolt" that was too long, and forced into the pre-drilled hole.
 

 
I still have to install the gun retention straps, and associated ring bolts into the carriage, but I am holding out on that until it is time to install the finished cannon onto the deck.
 
More updates to follow shortly!

Put the plan in the scanner and had part printed.
Used double sided clear tape and attached to the boxwood sheet.
Next is the cutting and trim, and I should have another workable piece.

The skipjack is a traditional fishing boat used on Chesapeake Bay for oyster dredging. Skipjacks vary in size, usually 40 – 60 feet in length. They were not built from plans. Almost every dimension of the hull and rig is a ratio of the length of the hull.

Several weeks back, my wife and I went to the Reedvillle Fisherman's Museum in Reedville Virginia. They have a skipjack, Claud W. Somers, a deck boat, Elva C., a replica of Captain John Smith's barge (circa 1608) and what remains of a Chesapeake Bay Log Canoe. It is a small museum with lots of models, model train layout and a boat yard. While perusing the gift shop I came across Steve Rogers, Patricia Staby-Rogers  book “Model Boat Building: The Skipjack” and bought it. I was already working on MS Phantom, but I kept going back to this book.

So here is my build log for a 45ft skipjack. This is my first scratch build model. My primary source is the book “Model Boat Building: The Skipjack”. For reference and additional information I am using the plans for the MS Willie Bennett, Ben Lankford's  book “Modeling Guide for Model Shipways Kit willie L. Bennett” and a spreadsheet I found on line at http://msuweb.montclair.edu/~lebelp/Miscellany.html. The spreadsheet has the dimensions ratios used to build skipjacks and has come in very handy. “Model Boat Building: The Skipjack” talks about the ratios that are used to calculate the skipjack dimensions, but no where in the book are they listed.
 
The books I am using for reference.

Cutting the keelson.


Gluing the keelson.


Adding the stemliner and the transom.





Attaching the strongback. The strongback is nailed in place and will be removed after the bottom planking is completed. There was no specific location given for the strongback so the placement was based on the Willie Bennett plans.

Adding the first plank. This is where you determine the shape of the hull.



The side planking completed.






 
Edited to add links

Dave - Thanks for the tip. I thought I would post some pictures of my variation of your solution. Besides what else can I do while waiting.
 
As you can see I put some Alcohol is a squirt bottle and then I kept the Q tips wet for about 90 min.

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

My first posting of my Mayflower #2.... 1/60th scale.
Decking progress, as seen here, is moving along fairly well.  Tree-nailing for two days now.  The only thing more repetitive would be tying clove hitches....right?
The stern view....I wanted to get a little flavor of working at the larger scale.
As for my continued progress on the smaller scale Mayflower #1.... will take a shot at tying in some ratlines to the top shrouds tonight.  Should be interesting since I haven't tied a clove-hitch in over two years.  Looking at some of my old builds, I kinda like the white line on black shrouds.  To me, the contrast really pops.

Hi Russ, Glad to be back at it. I can't wait to actually get to working on it again. I like your signature line, T'aint a hobby if you hurry, this is definitely a hobby, can't believe I started this almost 9 yrs. ago.
 
Like I said, I photograph at many different angles.
 





 

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Finishing up the running rigging and final pick up, key points include:
>>> Final drops of thinned white glue to secure rigging lines
>>> Rigging coils installed
>>> Ship's boat secured
>>> Final paint touchup
>>> Model cased and mounted in brass pedestals
 
The model now rests in the home of a dear friends in the State of Maine.  They are Maine natives, which is appropriate for this ship is typical of Maine coastal traders of the mid 1800's.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

It has been a while since I have posted to my build log so I thought I would update my progress on my Long Boat.  I thought I had finished thinning down the frames until I had several modelers look at my Long Boat model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Show back in April.  It was pointed out that my frames were still too thick as shown in the post above, so I thinned them down more and also worked down the frame at the bow.  I am happy with the result now, as this will allow me to install a very narrow cap rail.
 
I gave the inside of the long boat two coats of Watco Danish oil (thanks Toni) and it really brought out the boxwood tone of the wood.  I then jumped ahead in the instructions and installed the floorboards since the interior of the boat is very easy to work with.  I plan to make the platforms next and hold them for installation in the future.  Then I will make and install the caprail.
 
I have an advantage over a lot of other Long Boat modelers as I have spent hours studying the build logs of other Long Boat builds that are further along in their builds than I am.  I thank them for their posts as they have given me different ideas and options to use in my build of the Long Boat. 
 

Pops, I did my garboard like your bottom pic. All you have to do is edge bend the next plank(see photo below). If edge bending does not give you a perfect fit then you can sand from behind the curve, slightly, in order to pull the plank closer to the garboard. I believe that this it what Bob F. . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 did on his build.
 
I just made this up a few minutes ago so you can see how I did my edge bending. Soak the wood in warm or hot water for 15 minutes, Apply a little hydrogen peroxide with a Q-tip and bend very slowly in the jig. The wood here is a little under size so it doesn't fit tight at the front of the jig. All the planks that I used on the Longboat did. Normally, though not seen here, I would have covered the bend with a heavy weight with a paper towel under it until dry. That will flatten the wood thus removing the slight warp or bulge that you see here.
 

 
You could make the garboard like your top pic but it will be more difficult to shape the next plank. It will have to be shaped from a wider plank or spiled. You would not be able to just edge bend it into shape because the curve is too severe.
 
Although it worked for me, the Longboat is my first build so please get some confirmation on procedure as I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.

Here are some build pics of the skylight.

The ships wheel that came with the kit was in very poor shape, so I made my own.


 

Hey Mark, it feels great to be reviving my Morgan build. My first order of business after I'm done here, is to clean the dust off of it, that's going to be a challenge in itself.
 
This is the last of the text log I have, after this it will probably be just pictures until I get to where I can get things going again for new entries.
 
Deck Structures:
Besides the tryworks itself, building the deck structures is where a lot of building enjoyment comes in. The kit instructions give alternatives for these. You can plank the structures, or scribe the planking into the supplied sheet stock. At first I tried the scribing, figured it would be easier, and faster to do, but after putting so much work, and time into building the tryworks, I didn’t feel right about just scribing in the details, plus I didn’t like the looks of it. So, I decided to take the time, and build these as I did the tryworks.

The plans that come with the kit shows a lot of construction details for the structures, and accompanied by the vast amount of actual photos of the actual ship that are available, the amount of work, and detail that one could put into these are amazing.

First thing I would suggest doing, is in pencil, make a layout of all the structures on the deck. This way you will have an idea of how it all fits together, and will help with placement of the structures in their correct alignment.

As an example of some things that I did. When I built the Hurricane house, and the smaller Deck House & Berth, I used the 1/32” sheet basswood provided in the kit, and planked over it using 1/32” x 1/16” strips for the siding. I did exaggerate the gaps between the planks though. I did this so the detail of the planking would standout more at a distance, and in an attempt to give it more realism. I used slightly thicker strips for the base boards, and corner trimming. The doors, I made by cutting individual pieces (frame & panel) so they would be built basically the same way as a real door.

In my opinion, the plans show some very good detail for building the deck structures, and the many details that go with them. Just take your time with the structures, as they are a modeling experience all their own. If you enjoy the building part as much as I do, you’ll enjoy this part very much.

Instructions, and plans for building the tryworks, can be found in the Articles/Downloads section of the forum, under Furniture and Fittings. It is a PDF that you can download, and use. Here are some build pictures of the tryworks.