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English Pinnace by MikeB4 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24


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I'm back to start a new project. This time I'm going to attempt to build the English Pinnace. This is in a larger scale than the eighteenth Century long boat that I built last, but is still going to be a challenge to plank. I'm going to attempt to bend the strakes with heat only and not use any water. This is the advice that Chuck gives in his video. I'll see how that goes for me.

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This build has caught a snag. As I was starting to get ready to removing the bulkhead frames from their sheets, I noticed something wrong with one of the three sheets. Come to find out Model Expo accidentally put a sheet of bulkhead frames that belong to the eighteenth century long boat instead of the one that belongs to this boat. This leaves me short 36 parts that are on this sheet according to the list. I called Model Expo but they're closed this week. I hope they will send me the right sheet of parts even though I have had this model sitting in my closet for several years.

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Hey Mike - just started this myself yesterday. I didn't notice the wrong bulkhead sheet - but I wasn't looking for it either. How did you determine? Mine seem to be numbered/lettered properly.

 

Only thing I have noticed is that either the keel or false keel was a little warped. Unfortunately, I did not check before gluing them. It's not terrible, was going to try weighting it down on a glass pane for a while

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The first thing I noticed with the sheet was that it was a little thicker than the other two and doesn't match up with the slots on the false keel. The numbers and letters don't match with the blue print. Everything on the sheet in question just doesn't match size wise either, the parts are to small. I have no doubt that it belongs to the Long Boat kit because I've already built that model and am very familiar with it.

Edited by MikeB4
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I went back and rechecked my sheets. I believe they are the proper ones but 1 entire sheet - the one that is 8 frames - has no identifiers on the parts. I punched them all out and tried to line them up by width, I think I have them correctly marked now.

 

Not exactly a great start......I feel for you, having to wait for a replacement.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

That stinks Mike. I hope you get some resolution soon. I am working this kit in between some others. Got the frames laid and the first strake of planking on. It was rather difficult. Quite a few folks opted for spiling the planks. I have gone with the instructions and am trying to bend them. Including edge bending. Also had Crown replace the kit supplied wood with pear. I suppose that might be why the plank bending is more difficult.

 

Don't give up the ship!

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Yes all the bulkhead-frames where marked. I went ahead and dry fitted them to the keel. all but two fit nice and firm and the twelfth one broke on me. Nothing that a little CA won't take care of. I'm also wondering if I should drill the holes for the brass pedestals before I glue the bulkheads on. 

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Mike - something else to consider. After installing the frame pieces, fairing is a real bear. The frames are so thin they flap around as you run a file over them. I was really afraid of breaking them. And there is some serious fairing that needs to happen, particularly at the bow.

 

I ended up dribbling thin CA all over the knock out part of the frames. It did help to stiffen them up a bit.

 

Have you decided if you are going to try bending the planks or spiling them?

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I finally got the frames glued in place. I also stabilized the frames by putting wood strips in between each bulkhead. I applied only a small amount of CA to one side of each strip. This will make it easier to remove them after the boat is planked. I wish I had done this for the long boat build. This not only makes it easier to fair, it will also keep the frames in their proper positions when I start planking the hull.

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Mike,

 

It's probably much easier to get the center bulkheads separated if the wood strips are out of the way. The reason being is there are three points at which each removable bulkhead attaches to each frame. The procedure for removal is to cut the top two contact points at port and starboard, Then carefully snap the bottom contact point thus releasing the bulkhead. If the strips are still in place you would have a difficult time trying to snap free the bottom contact.

Edited by MikeB4
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