Ryland Craze

Got a bit more prep painting done this past week.

Holidays over time to get back on it, various shots showing decking detail.

I bronzed the cannons and worked on the anchor stocks a bit tonight.  Still have some work to do on the stocks, more holes to fill.  Base coat of flay black then top coated with a 50/50 mix of Testors Metallizer "Titanium and Burn Iron".  No one makes a decent shade of dark bronze. The stocks will get a coast of flat black with a topcoat of dark wood and some destressing. Even though you prob. won't see the pin/punch holes, there is no reason not to fill them. Aside from that, I managed to cut my thumb with a new #11 blade, don't you hate that when it happens.....

I'm going to try and do a build log as I go, I set up this post vs. piggyback off Bill97's excellent Build.  I just placed an order from True North Paints (enamel like Model Masters) , once I get those in I'll be able to pick up the pace a bit. Since I'm doing this for a client, I'll need to work as directed, one side will have the cannons extended and one side will have the ports closed (they can turn it when they like). I'm going to strip the paint off the stern and probably remove the fish and redo the wood grain detail (client is undecided as of now and understands there is no information either way on the matter).  I'll also need to figure out if I'm going to use the stern gun ports.  I've ordered the Parrell rollers needed for the yards, I'm researching the correct blocks needed, the small ones in the kit are strange.  My reference is the "Rigging and Masting of 16th. century ships.
 
The deck detail technic I used came from "How to Build Plastic Ship Models" by Kalmbach. Base coat flat black, let dry 24 hrs. then topcoat in your choice of tan/browns, I perfect Testors Armor Sand due to being light enough to detail the caulking on the planks and still give a dark water wash.  I've also pre-prepped the deadeyes and other various parts in a basecoat of flat black.

I always glue them firmly in place using guides and jigs. It’s important to me to have straight and level masts and bowsprit withe the proper angles as needed, using lines to achieve that is an exercise in futility for the perfectionist I am. 
 
Hardly cheating, it’s a model not an actual sailing craft. It’s more impressive and interesting to get it right. You don’t have the same ability to step and tension lines on a small 23” model nor the hundred or more sailors it took to do it pulling from multiple lines at the same time. 

I always add just a drop of PVA to the bottom of each mast, as they will twist otherwise, and you'll be forever trying to twist them back into position - unless of course the mast is keyed into place.

I am fairly new to the hobby, so I can’t speak to longevity.  On my first build I use PVA, but I don’t think I needed to.  On my second build I didn’t use any glue.  The bow sprit, foremast and main mast went in straight and are held there by the shrouds.  The mizzen mast wanted to lean a little so I used some wedges to get it straight and then relied on the shrouds to keep it straight.  

Curious, do folks glue in the masts and bowsprit or have people been successful with wedges and rigging to hold them in place??  I am new to this and getting close to fixing my bowsprit - glue seems almost like cheating.  Who does this without glue?  How is the longevity?  Any tips either way?   Thanks in advance.  (I searched in Masting using "install" and "glue masts" but didn't find much - suggesting maybe glue is the only option - did see one thread on putty to fix masts which was interesting.)
 
All thoughts appreciated.
 

Steve,  I use a small USB fan for that purpose.  The dust settles in a corner of my shop, and I vacuum it up.
 
l was a little put off by the price of the MicroMark device, but really couldn’t comment from experience.
 
Your information is very useful.

Shows how much we’ll have to pay to own a Byrnes saw. It sold for higher than the price new and it was 12 years old. Looks like I’ll have to keep saving☹️

Wow, my last post was towards the end of March, time has certainly gotten away from me. My apologies for the delay for a Maggie update and a response to Brian @mbp521, Keith @clearway, Tom @TBlack, Eric @Cathead, Keith @KeithAug, Gary @FriedClams, and Mark @AnchorClanker. To each of you, thank you for your kind thoughts and well wishes. And thank you to all for the likes and for following along on this new part of our journey.
 
 Maggie is much improved in the clarity of her speech, fascial expressions, the strength in her left hand, ams, legs, and her independence. She is getting her own  breakfast and lunch. She's managing to do her laundry, she's washing some dishes (we don't have a dishwasher) or drying dishes after I wash. She's able to get in and out of the shower and gets dressed on her own accord. She's managed to do a little knitting, it's sure not pre stroke quality but that she's able to knit at all is a small miracle.
 
 She made meatloaf the other night with some help but she was able to make the effort and it was a welcome change from my cooking. While we were prepping we play bickered at one another and she reminded me that I was in her domain. Sweeter words were never spoken. This is coming none too soon as the other night I caught myself on Amazon looking at frying pans and paring knives. 
 
 She has a devil of a time with opening lidded containers so on those nights when I have pool league I have to place plastic wrap over those (lid removed) containers she'll be needing to get into for her supper and she has no issues using the microwave. I'm so grateful for her getting to this point as it allows for some much needed Keith time. 
 
 The above is answer to prayer, a peaceful rhythm of life has returned, our lives no longer feel like it's been stirred with a stick.
 
 Though we be knee deep in that time of year that requires outside attention, I'm getting real close to resuming work on the Tennessee. The other night I managed to attach a rigged pair of deadeyes to the port side and it felt good to be sitting at the worktable again. The third hand awaits, stropped deadeyes and thread callout,  time for this part of my journey to continue.
 
 Thank you for following along,
 
  Keith 
 
 

In answer to your question about being 'safe"...  as long you're clicking on the Delete in the post, yes.. it's safe and will only delete that post.  

6 let’s figure out the top rails and hull plating.
 
Sometimes I think I am so smart… then I suffer.  In this build I made the top of all the bulkheads to be at the deck line.  I used this method in larger models where one has reasonable access to sand, remeasure and adjust.   I was thinking this is a shortcut, as the deck can then just sit there.   Well, it was not that smart.    Unlike a 4-foot RC sailor with 10-inch-wide deck, or even a 27-inch schooner with 5 inch beam, I have less than 3 inches across the deck.   There is no convenient way to get in there with control to sand down multiple bulkheads for that nice surface needed to directly place the decking.   If I had made them all just 1/8” lower, I could have made up deep deck beams and glued them to one of each bulkhead.  In one day, all would have been done.  Now who knows…  
 
In the meantime, we need to figure out where we raise the bulwarks to fit the profile and set top rails. We have several sources to use:
•    The Ronnberg profile drawing is our starting point.  The rounded “domed” fore deck shown in his work was not evident in the photos of the Maine Trawlers
•    The Rice Brothers photos are the goal. A few adjustments may be good enough.
•    Internet photos of Harvard then Bellefonte then Albatross III.  Unfortunately, the vessel was extended 20+ feet all in the forward area so interpretation is required.
 
These all together should however be enough to cry uncle.
1    here is the detail line drawing from the Ronnberg article that sets the designed bulwark dimensions for vessel. I have annotated a few elements to give heights for the bulwarks. The deck line is also shown on the profile drawing to check as well. 2    here is a detail photo of the Ronnberg model trawler fantail.  Mine will never look this good but it is something to aspire too. I thought I would first try to do this in 1/64 birch plywood and if no good, do it in styrene.  Let’s see where it goes.
Just last week I began a series of interviews with Robert Rice.  At 85, he is the last remaining Rice brother heir that worked in the plant around 1950. He chose not to stay there, and he spent 28 years in the army. When he retired in 1976 and began building houses.  After a few years, he realized no one had memorialized the family history.  He decided to do that and spent the next 40 years accomplishing an amazing library of photos, models and records.  He joined with Jim Stevens, an East Boothbay Shipbuilder in his own right, who started the local Boothbay Region Historical Society where much of their work resides.   In his home he has a 5-foot shelf of photo and memorabilia albums showing every vessel.  He has great models too.  He looked at the model I recently made of the Lightship Overfalls and instantly showed me an error…oops.    I will post that over on that log next week as it is fun, and I will include a photo of his model of Columbia and the story of the major design changes that Rice Brothers had done to the two ships built around 1950.
 
Back to the trawlers.  Quite a story.
 
Jacob Stevens, who a few years later opened his own yard, was working as the designer for Rice brothers when they won these Trawler contracts and the first lightship Poe. Unfortunately, a fire in 1951 destroyed all the stored drawings. A few survived including a profile and deck plan for these trawlers. I include here a photo of the photo in Robert’s album of the Beam trawler blueprint profile. There were 6 variations of them built but here is the plan…..wow what a find.
3    the plan profile as developed by Jacob Stevens who worked at Rice bothers for years before starting Goudy and Stevens yard in 1920-24 Now let’s do some comparisons. I cropped and blew up each portion to compare and plan.
4.    here we see the bow area.  I show both the Quincy Ma [ via Erik Ronnberg] cropped profile with the Robert Rice photo.  I will do my best to replicate the Rice Bros drawing but note the lack of high foredeck visible in the photos. 5 here we see the stern on a red color version of the blueprint Robert had. This red version is clearer, and I am using it for dimensions. I scaled it in Turbo Cad for that purpose. It seems the Rice Bros profile had less rise than what I have built.  I need to acknowledge that, but we have followed the Quincy, Ma. lines and have what we have.   
6. here I share the whole profile.  I am thrilled to now have drawings of the on-deck features to follow and that is key to getting where we want to be.  Any work going on?
 
 If I have learned anything in the 10 years of this work is get the sequence right.   I am trying to finish 4 things at the same time and some impact the others. I think I figured our my “path”.  
 
7   here we see the blue tape indicating the top of top outer plate. I cannot complete the added bulwarks until I remove the stands, as they are used to maintain the waterline dimension.  The lower tape is the water line.   I need to get the out plates on, then the waterline painted then remove the stands and complete fixing bulkheads for deck and bulwarks for rails.   Following the tip from Roger, I bought spray shellac and applied it to construction paper before cutting strips on a paper cutter.   I then cut both 8 foot and 12 foot in scale pieces and laid out the out “strakes”.[ not sure what one calls a line of plates].  I then cut vertical lines in the remaining hull to represent the same type plate spacing.  I used simple diluted white glue to adhere the paper and then rattle can red and black.   I suppose I could have applied a double layer of paper but decided at this scale not to do that.   I would add plating to both inner and outer if trying 1:48 or bigger scale. Here in three pictures, we see the result.  The Satin label on the cans failed me as there is a definite shine.  We all know there will be another paint job after all the remaining work, so I will dull it down a bit.
8.   stern view 9    bow view 10.   over exposed but whole view to see the plating.
Next up will be to complete the bow stern and raise the bulkheads and get ready for the deck.
All for now
 

5 Wood becomes steel.
 
Well, I sanded the two-part material shown in the last post and was unhappy with the result.  I switched immediately to the one-part glazing putty by Bondo, that I have used over recent years to my satisfaction.   Moving along, we see a sequence that seemed unending.  Let’s follow the photos as we magically turn wood into steel.
 
1 and 2.   These represent coat 2, putty over wood filler.  
3   here we have sanded and used the auto body filler primer. It is here we see many of the defects that are hard to see before painting and we sand again.    
4   after sanding the primer we go to coat 3.  
5   sand and prime again  
6   here we are at coat 4  
7   after coat 4 the primer starts to look good…but alas not good enough.  
8   time to add the skeg so we can blend it into the finishing. I also made the rough cut out for the propeller.  I probably will need more but will wait till I get it in hand.  
9   coat 5 the defects that are covered are not as big as the stain from the putty.  We are getting closer.  
10.   really close this time, still need to go again  
11   coat 6 this time I hope we are there.  
12   finally we are done. Here I am choosing what weight paper to use to replicate the plating.
It is time to think about how to make the plating.  We have a few images of the later vessel.  I also have learned from the last remaining local Rice brother’s family member that worked there around 1950 that there was welding included in these early draggers. The lightship built in 1921 was fully riveted but these dragger hulls had welded plates.  He shared that all vessels by the 1930’s in the Rice Brother shop were welded. The coast guard had a few requirements and the 1938 Lightship Cornfield was welded below water and rivets above water. I know that as I finally visited it last week.
13   We end here having removed all but two sets of bulkheads .  The two sets remain as stands and will let me set the water line, but the openness will allow me to figure out the bullworks, the bow and stern areas that need to be completed next.  The photo and construction paper are my preparation to figure out how to add the steel plating.  the photo clearly shows the alternating in and out of the "strakes".  They also show i need to finish the bulworks first so they are positioned correctly.  
all for now.  

 

04. Get those planks on
 
Steel out of wood.  Hopefully it's not something new.  My plan is the age-old trial-and-error approach.   I will plank with 1/32 basswood and add liberal coats of glazing putty then sand and putty and then sand.  Then add the outer strake to represent the look of a riveted hull.  I will not try to replicate rivets. Considering there is no attempt to see the planking, the planking installation is expedited. 
I broke up the sides into 4 bands. The full side was 24/8” [ 3”] most of the way. Each end tapered to 20/8”.  I used a razor blade to chop down and taper both ends of the planks for most of the runs.  The planks were milled to be 5/64…..shall we say more than 1/16 but not quite 3/32.  I have the right tools and most of the planks were right on but…I used the ones that weren’t too.   

First up was to solve the underpinning.  I added soft pine blocking bow and stern and carved it to shape using a Dremel and careful sanding.  The stern block is not all the way up to the top rail, as believe from looking at Erik Ronnberg, the master’s model, the aft bullwork up to the taft rail was ultra-thin.  I think that is better built after we have access, and avoid having to carve back out the blocking.   Similarly, the height of the fore deck and thin bulkhead suggest completing that work after removal from the building board.  Again, we’ll see when we get there and hopefully not regret the approach.

To work.  
 
1   here I have added the five intermediate bulkheads. They are the ones that do not reach the building board.  It was a bit of a challenge but we did it and the first four planks are in. The placement is one below and three above the upper band marks. [ sorry only pencil]  I did not spile these 4 planks, but all the remaining ones were tapered.  
2   some more progress.  Clamping is always an adventure.  
3    here the top band is completed.  
4   here I have the garboard and extended planks and bow coming along.  
5   here we are working the tricky double bending of the stern.  Thank goodness this is not to be exposed wood.  
6   ta da.  All in  
7   I see here that the keel needs a hair added on...oh well     8.    and quickly let’s get a coat of filler to cover it up.  I decided to use a first application of two-part filler since there were quite a few defects, especially on the stern areas and such thin planking.  Once we have two, if not three, applications in place, I will move to one part glazing putty for smoother finish.    
Happy Thanksgiving.   
 

03 where are the plans?
 
About a month ago I posted a request for help on MSW research blog looking for 1910 ish beam trawler plans.   It worked!   Thanks to a brief exchange, I was tipped to go find Erik Ronnberg articles from NRJ, perhaps from the 1980’s on the subject. It was easy to do using the NRJ index and CD’s.  
 
The essence that came through reading these articles was that as the century turned, American shipyards still built schooners. They did not, as the Brits had already done, move into their own development of large-scale powered steel trawlers.   Then in 1905 or so British designs came to New England to kick start our industry.   Erik R’s amazing 5 articles, which include full images of an amazing build in 3/8” scale, is worth a detour for anyone who finds this subject interesting. He also discusses the beam and otter trawling and other technical or equipment developments along the way. The vessels were built in, Quincy Mass for Boston owners using British inspired design.   Ours here in East Boothbay were also built for Boston owners. 
 
There are 5 articles, and they include history, photos and yes, all kinds of plans.    The size was almost identical, and the look also is the same. The article shows evolution between 1905 and 1912 and the difference is subtle.  I chose the older as it is just a small bit is less curvy.   
 
1.   here is an image from the NRJ articles to compare with images of the launched hulls in the last post.  Pretty close I think, so we are solved as to the source, and now will look to the photos for the details.
So, what to build and how.   I want to celebrate this early stage of steel work. My recent build the lightship Overfalls 1950 represents the end of the Rice Brother’s era, as the yard was closed by 1956. There was a total of 6 draggers built between 1919 and 1926, plus the steam passenger Bainbridge.  My selection, to sit beside the completed model of the lightship Overfalls, will be the Trawler Harvard in the same scale 1:96.  I am new to faking steel and I don’t know much about fishing equipment, so the smaller scale helps me there too.   The photos of the 1912 model by Ronnberg [ way over my head] will inspire me to try to make a go of rigging, plating the hull and fitting out the deck.  At least I hope it won’t look like a schooner with short masts.
 
To work…
 
I set up the plans from the article and embedded them in my apple system Turbo Cad.    It is more than adequate for the simple 2D re-scaling and station drawing that I do. I would not recommend it for a serious CAD process.
 
2.    Here is a typical station with the embedded line drawing still turned on.   
3.    Here I turn the embedded photo layer off before printing my patterns.  
4   here the patterns are glued up ready for cutting. the inner line is for sanding down to account for the intend 1/32" planking.    On a separate drawing I scale the “Keel-stem assembly and stretch lines to make up a building board pattern for the stations.   The first phase is just to get the stations cut out and attached to the build board with blocking.  That step is all I have in this posting. I found that there were 7 fewer station lines than stations and with a little fiddling spaced them out.  Knew right of way I need two more at the ends so made them up averaging the wider ones to make a new pattern.
5.   Here we see a from the stern.  the blocks are only dry fit at this point.  
6.   Here we see the dry fit from the bow.  it is obvious I need 2 more stations here as the shape change quickly.  
7.   Looking from the bow we seem to be on the right path.  
8.    Looking down on the from the bow a question stays up.  what about those 5 spaces that are a little over an inch….?
Next time we will get the bow and stern blocking done, do the fairing and clean up and figure out what to do about those spaces.  I think I need more stations…
 
All for now
 

02 the Harvard story and selection process.
 
If one has seen my builds, they realize to me it is the story. The combination of the research the preparation and giving of talks and yes, the model as a prop to help tell the story.  The story here is evolution of steel hull fabrication beginning in 1916 in this yard [ our town] and the emergence of power large size draggers / trawlers to the new England fishing industry.  One reason I chose it is that I know absolutely nothing about any of it…..so let’s go.
 
What to build?
 
As part of our team effort digitizing our local Boothbay Region Historical Society, I have been focusing on what we have for records of the shipbuilding industry here.  There is plenty…. After telling the first 100 years of the local industry two years ago, I am starting to move into the more recent 20th century.   The first part was truly writing a multiple book report and mixing it with visuals and yes, a few models.  This time I will find real people descendant from the main actors.  I will therefore reduce each phase into one yard.  I have already built a lightship, the Overfalls, which the launched at the end of The Rice Brothers’ run in 1950.  The yard closed in 1955.  I want now to build something at the beginning of steel. The Lightship Poe 1916 started the steel process and was in that hunt. I already did a lightship, and this story is about the yard, not one type of vessel.  On their exhaustive list of builds we find several “beam trawlers”.  Or were they draggers or. ???.  On we go.  One was converted halfway through hull construction and became a passenger vessel in Chicago, Mackinaw, and Lake Erie.
 
Looking through the list of early trawlers we have several and they were all about 139 feet long. The first was L M Winslow launched in 1918, and the second was AA Mills launched in 1919.  Two more were started at that time but were stopped due to financial issues in the fishing fleet.  The third [ still looking for original name] was renamed Bainbridge and converted to a passenger ferry boat.  She had quite a life and was renamed as Erie Queen and Algoma II at different times. Another trawler Fabia was launched in 1920.  After the Bainbridge was converted to a steam ferry she was launched in 1921. The Trawlers Fisher and Seiner were both launched in 1922 and finally Harvard [ previous started as the Arnold T Rice] was reactivated after sitting in the yard over 3 years in 1925 and was completed in 1926.
 
The beam trawler Harvard had an interesting life.  She started with the General Fishing Corporation of Boston and fished up until WWII.  She was sold into the coast guard; was lengthened 139 to 179 feet and renamed Bellefonte. In 1946 she came back to be de-armed and recommissioned in the fisheries department[ now NOAA] as the Albatross III.  She finally ended her known carrier in 1959 when sold out of service to the Island Steamship line, Hyannis Ma.  
 
I think we have a winner…..now some visuals
 
01   here is the new Lightship Poe that was launched in 1921.
 

02   here we see the first launched beam trawler L M Winslow.   We have lots of photos of this and the others as they went overboard.
 

03   here we see both the Poe and Winslow beside the dock continuing their post launch builds.
 

04   here in late 1919 we see both Harvard and Bainbridge side by side.  A few months later as the hulls where mostly complete work was stopped.
 

05 a &b   
Here is the Bainbridge, a converted second hull to a stream ferry in 1921 and secondly as a ferry in the great lakes in 1923.

 
 
06   there are two of these pictures and they are very much alike.  One in 1921 when work stopped and this one in 1925 as work resumed. She was renamed Harvard at this time.
 
07   yippee here Harvard is launched late 1925.
 

08   here is an internet picture of Harvard.  I hope to find more.
 

09   here we see Harvard renamed Bellefonte. She was lengthens and armed by the Navy of the coast guard.

10   here she is again in 1946 steams out after a second refit to become the fisheries vessel 

11   here is Albatross II as she is under way 1952.

12   here she is again in 1958 near then end for that era. 
 
The trail dies away. In 1959 she was sold the Nantucket Ferry line. That service was apparently taken over by the state in 1960, and  their records start there.  I have a friend in the guild with connection to Mass ferry service and I plan to ask him to help. 
So now we know what we are going to build, the next question is how.   What drawings etc.  fortunately, we have an answer next time.
 
 
now it is fall in New England, and we need to get enough leaves blown to work inside and get going on this new adventure.
 
Cheers 
 

Building log for beam trawler Harvard
 
01 The beginning
 
I am in the middle of a deep dive into the study of one our Boothbay Region shipyards, most often known as Rice Brothers.  As part of that study, I will likely include three builds and this one is the second.  The Rice brothers’ father started building smaller boats about 1892.  As the three sons came of age, they dove into ship building and took over from Dad. They formed the firm of Rice Brothers by 1903 and with three brothers expanded quickly. One Brother Frank split away in 1906 and continued on the property with a lumber yard, small boats service, cars and several other ventures. By 1910 the main firm was making their own small motors. They also set up a production capability making multiple class boats, both sail and motor.  The traditional Maine  built schooner based workflow continued as well, and in 1912 they launched the B B Crowninshield designed aux schooner Adventuress that sails today out of Port Townsend, Washington.
 
Let’s see what’s up.
 
01   here we see a 1903 panorama of East Boothbay, Me.   On the left we start with Race point with a pier for the steamship Enterprise, next we have the properties that were changing hands from Murray to the Rice family starting in 1892. The small yard was on the far side but quickly took over the whole pier where the steamship landed.   Next on the right is a mixed area of sail loft, mast/spar maker, another yard that had been active since 1840.  Next is the framing of the 4 masted schooner, Eleanor F Bertram being built by W I Adams.  In the foreground we have the Hodgdon yard where many schooners were being built at that time.  
02   here we are looking south from the water to the large addition to the Rice brothers shop [light colored siding] built in 1910.  This expansion allowed class boat and production line style of work.  
03   here inside we see a whole fleet of 30-foot racing schooners being built.  There are similar photos showing runs of their motor launches and other yacht club one designs being built as a fleet as well.  
04   here is an opportunity right now on Marketplace to buy a 1901 Rice brothers engine made into a table.  
  05a &b   here is a photo of Adventuress as she was launched in 1912 and a recent internet photo of her as a featured schooner in Washington state.  
 
 
 
In 1916 they got their first order to build in steel. The Lightship Poe.  She was well along, and orders came in for Steel draggers too.  There were ultimately 6 large steel hulls to build. 
 
6   Here we see further expansion in 1916 and preparation as they won their first contracts to build in steel.    
Oh no a huge fire in the summer of 1917.  The losses were terrible. More than 40 completed boats ready to deliver went up as they were stored inside.  Outside the lightship Poe was totally ruined.
 
7.   here looking across the smoldering hull we see the empty building frame.  
8   look at the deformation cause by the intense heat.  
9   from the shore it is clear a new start is needed.   
10    we end this chapter on a good note as we see the following year the shop was rebuilt and work continues.     All for now 
 

12 The end......
 
It has been a while since i last updated this log, and now I am planning another build, so  I thought I needed to add the display photos of the completed model and close this log.
 
I include a batch of 10 photos I took a while back. Unfortunately the crew had not yet arrived.
 

 








This summer we are celebrating the Rice Brothers shipyard at the local Boothbay Region Historical Society.  As I have shared in the log previously, I have been meeting regularly with Robert Rice the last living heir and grandson of the founding brother Henry.  Robert has also donated much of his work to the society this spring.

Here are 2  photos of the combined display showing his three Models along with my two.   I will give a talk in July and then it will be done.
Here are views of the combine collection and my contribution.
 


 
on to the next one...Jon
 
 

You have a very nice rear end there Egilman! (Can’t believe I just said that….) 

Another update Brothers...
 
She now has a rear end.....
 

And where she resides...

And a reverse low angle shot....

Starting to look like something....
 
The overall shot...

I guess the next item up is the Transmission.... (driveline, truss rods, thrust bearing, brakes, etc., etc....) {chuckle}
 
Onwards...

Well we are starting on the Rear Axle....
 
First parts are the upper spring plates and and lower clamp.... They clamp together over the Axle housing end tubes...
Front side then backside.... 

The reason they used a bearing surface clamp is to allow the Rear End to rotate without deflecting (twisting) the spring... Since it was a solid driveline from axle through the transmission and driveshaft tube to the thrust bearing, they needed the axle/spring connection to rotate which allowed the spring to move up and down while the driveline's angle to the thrust bearing could change as the suspension worked... the Axle would pivot in the clamp...
 
Mounted to the Spring, front and back....

On the backside view you can see the grease cup used to lubricate the axle/clamp bearing surface.... The lower clamp also had the lower shock bracket and jacking plate integral with it's casting.... Really ingenious engineering here....
 
And an overall view showing all the moving parts where they reside on the chassis...
 

Next up, the Axle tube and Differential housing....
 
Onwards....
 
 
 
 

I can only guess, that these are acrylics, wefalck. The artist pens from F-C should also work fine for this kind of work. Where the AK weathering pencils really shine, is dampened. You can use them as a multicolored wash and weathering medium. I really love to work with them.

Here are some examples of a Sci-Fi build, where weathering was done with the AK pencils dampened:








 
Cheers Rob

I´m closing in on the finish line. Due to some back spasms, bench time is somewhat limited lately, but I started painting the figures and props.
These were primed and sprayed with Tamiya Buff then.
 


I wanted to try a new technique for the laminated wood and graining with pencils. My AEG has two different propellers, a good opportunity to finish the props a little different. 
Number one was ´laminated´ with AK weathering pencils Dark Chipping for Wood and Dark Rust by hand following the logical ´flow´ of the lamination.



Number two was ´laminated´ with Sand and Sepia for a bit more contrast



The props were varnished differently,
Number one got Tamiya Clear Orange applied by brush, which removed a lot of the laminating effect. Not all propellers of the time had a verry apparent lamination effect, so I let it be.

Number two was varnished with the airbrush using Tamiya Clear Red, which lead the wood layers show through much more.



Cheers Rob

Thank you gentlemen for your likes and comments.
 
Here is a small update on the hair brackets and cheeks. I thought I would paint them blue with a yellow facing. It seemed like a good idea but it didn't work out - and sanding the paint off was a bit of a disaster. Chuck very kindly sent me replacements.
 
I didn't entirely follow the building order set out in the instructions. After ages of fiddling about trying to line things up I settled on starting with the upper hair bracket and using that as a datum point as it were.
 



I painted the friezes off the model.

 
And this is how they came out. I painted my initials (JFH) on the starboard hair bracket - just behind the figurehead's upper arm - for a bit of fun. 
 


And here is the port side. Some tidying up of the scruffy paint work required but otherwise I'm happy with the outcome.
 
 


All the best 
Fred