Ryland Craze

OK, there has been a little progress as I'm still waiting on supplies and tools.
 
After looking at some pictures online, I noticed some tillers had a more ergonomic shape. So I decided to make one from scratch. It has the same overall dimensions as the original for the most part. It might be completely inconsistent with this time period or boat. If so please let me know.
 

 
 
Then I decided to try my hand at some weathering/wear marks. I'm not really sure where these should be so I made what I hoped was an educated guess after looking at photos online. I can't find a lot that describes this boat.
I'd love your opinions of my work and suggestions for what else to do. I'm thinking the boat should have more wear and rub marks but I don't know where to put the wear! (see what I did there?)
I'd like to add a slightly dirty wash to the hull. Would that be appropriate for this time/boat? I'm not sure if these boats sitting out of the water was a common sight or not?
 
I did this with watercolor paints. I'd like to try my hand with some dry pigment soon!
 

 
Thanks again for stopping in!

Chris

When I came back to the build I re-read Chuck's log and many others, to refresh my memory. I consider myself lucky that I have all these excellent builds, including yours Bob, to refer to.
I picked up the  tip of  using the thinner stuff from Chuck's log, but it's not mentioned in the download instructions.
I was concerned about using too much pressure on those open frames.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Post 22
Fitting the boards
Initial fitting of the 1/16th broad plank reveals it will be a tricky part to fit.
It is clear that a gentle approach will be required in getting the boards to conform to the frames as they are far more vulnerable without the support of outer planking.
 
Chuck had suggested that the broad planks could be cut from 1/32nd sheet and glued one on top of the other in the same manner as the outer planks.
 
These would better conform around the inner framework, and
having played around with the 1/16th board I decided that the 1/32nd option was both easier and safer.
 
Not out of the woods yet; 
 
Shaping by degrees was needed on the inner side of the broad planks to cleanly meet the central one.
Additionally, I had problems with Frame ‘F’ - third from the bow, which needed additional fairing to allow the board to sit down properly. This frame was also troublesome with the central plank.

0040

0042
These Amati planking clamps are ideal for securing the boarding both for heat treatment to conform the board, and for eventually gluing.
This would not be an option with a fully planked hull.
It is the forward section of the boards that require some twist to conform to the forward bow frames but using 1/32nd board there is no problem.

0049
The base layers in place.

0045
Here the port side second layer strip in position for the application of the heat treatment. Spacers are used to maintain the rabbet line on the central plank.
Before finally gluing into place the nail points were marked on the planking and pre drilled.
I used a 0.4mm drill.
 
Care is required to ensure that the nail lines across the board are even and square to the frames.
With the board in place I drew fine pencil marks in line with the frames, and off the model I marked the nail positions and drilled.
 
The board then needed cleaning with isopropanol to remove the traces of the pencil marks.

0054
Using 10lb fishing line the ‘nails’ are inserted, secured with pva. Dull work, but I can’t complain given that I have been spared the bulk of this task.

0055

0059

0057

0056
Onto the outer boards.
 
 
B.E.
03/06/2024

I tend to use a plank nipper on those. 
 
You can curl a plank in any direction, real quick.

I am now at the point I dread the most. The second plank has to be bent is such a way to wrap around the sharp curve in the stern. Most of the planks will be relatively easy to manage but not the first one. I have pictures of the area and I am concerned it is still not prepped properly. If it is close, it appears the plank shown will need a twist. The twist will become less and less as planks are added. In the past I have always built hulls where the stern was flat, and the planks did not have to bend around the stern. How do I best proceed getting the first plank fitted?
 
 

It'll come as no surprise that it won't be Surprise. 

To add to Chris’s point, ships carrying less than 20 guns were ‘un-rated’ and not impacted by the guns -v- carronades -v- total ordnance argument that muddied the rated ship system delineations prior to a total ordnance rating system adopted in 1817.
 
Gary

They counted as guns on brigs. At this period (1790's-1815), the overwhelming majority of 18-gun brigs had the 16x24 or 32-Pounders and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns. This made them very powerful for their size at closer ranges. If they were armed with 18 x 6-Pounder long guns, not only would they have been slower due to the heavier weight of the guns, their broadside weight and effect would have been pitiful when compared to the carronades
 
They were never counted as such on larger vessels, though, presumably because the armament was chopped and changed quite often (secondary armament, that is, not the main gun deck ordnance – unless it was a 24-pounder frigate fitted with 18’s…)
 

Remember, the ship is travelling forward, pushed by that aft wind. If the stack was facing forwards, there would be a positive pressure at the vent, forcing smoke under the deck. Facing backwards, despite the wind, there will be a negative pressure, helping to draw out smoke. 

That would be up to the modeller. It can face fore, aft, port or starboard. Most contemporary models I have seen have it facing as I have positioned it - but really, it is no big deal as it can be changed to whatever postion anyway.
 
 

Ah yes the lost art of printing stenciling... Completely old school I love it!!! The camo look good as well.... (using grey greys instead of grey blues)

USAF A-7E Corsair II at the Davis Monthan boneyard....

Thank you both very much!
 
The camouflage pattern is painted on and looks pretty close to the original aircraft.
 



The shades of gray are a little off, but the paint on the actual aircraft is pretty faded.
 
The grays are a little darker than in the photos too.
 
Next, I need to add a blue and white tail flash and do all the minor detail painting.
 
Somewhere along the way I need to touch up the canopy and gloss coat the glass.
 
I need to gloss coat the base too.
 
I have photos of the actual plane to make markings from.
 
I’ll import trimmed down pictures into Word and resize them.
 
Then, I’ll print the markings in color and clear coat both sides of the paper, much like on a normal card model, and cut them out/glue them on.
 
Hopefully, I’ll have this one done by Friday.
 
 

The model has been base coated light gray now:



I hand painted the canopy.  It needs touched up, but that will wait until after the model gets dark gray stripes.
 
First,  I need to let the model dry for about an hour.

Thank you very much!

The model has been primed black:

The stand will now get gloss coated and the plane itself will be painted a light grey except for the canopy.
 
The canopy will be gloss coated much like the faceplates of the last round of Terran Marines, from the Starcraft franchise, that I painted.
 
Then I’ll add the darker gray stripes and start on some markings!

Lower wings mated to fuselage. This crate is taking up some real estate!
 

This is more of an example of shopping by designer rather than by publisher. As loyal readers may recall, some publishers print the work of multiple designers, so the name of the publisher is not always a reliable indicator of kit quality. There are exceptions, of course -- Pawel over at Kartonowa Kolekcja only publishes his own work, at least for aircraft (I'm not familiar with any of KK's ship or armor designs), and his designs are always top-shelf. But WAK is a mixed bag. Interestingly, this kit is advertised as "suitable for beginners," but it's another 'beginner's kit' that would've stumped me as a beginner.
 
This kit also illustrates the fact that one designer's work can show up under multiple publishers. The same designer of this kit also designed the Hawker Nimrod kit from Answer that is in my stash. Needless to say, I'm not as enthusiastic about that kit as I once was. 😑 On the other hand, at least one of the other WAK kits I have in my stash is designed by Lukas Fuczek, whose kits have not always been easy to build, but they are definitely detailed and have nice graphics; the two of Lukas' kits that I have finished were published by Orlik.

Before and after the fix.
 

Playing around with the wing-to-fuselage fit. As I said, there is virtually no guidance in the instructions or diagrams about how this structure should go together. To begin with, I stiffened the bulkhead extensions and then doubled them. Then I added the ribs, both the original 0.5 mm original and its 1.0 mm replacement. The structure is now quite rigid and guides the wing right to where it (hopefully) is supposed to go.
 

 
And then there's this part:
 

 
Once again I have no clue about how the upper and lower edges are supposed to be brought together, and wing roots do not seem to have been the focus of any photos found online. So, this structure will be treated as one of those "no one will notice it, so I'm going to guess at it" structures. My plan is to add a fillet to the gap and paint it to match the kit colors. Tune in later to see the result!

Very nice carvings!

Beautiful work. 
 
I can't imagine they are quick to carve.

Chuck , Thank you. I enjoy my work, especially these wood carvings, which are very challenging and have an artistic atmosphere.

Works are gradually being updated
Customized various bow puppets and reliefs
450449987@qq.com

Hi all,
 
I've just finished sanding the char off both sides of the billets holding the frame pieces. After that was done I applied a light coat of wipe on poly to both sides before removing any pieces. For me it seems to help keep the sides cleaner when removing the char from the rest of the frames. I'll be taking the frame pieces out one at a time, clean them up and put them in Individually marked storage bags until I'm ready to assemble them.
This will take a bit of time as there are a lot of frames to do.😀

Thanks all for the likes and thanks CDW for the comment.  The primer is Splash paints dark grey surfacer. 
 
I've started working on the main tub and the front suspension lower arms.  This is pretty much steps 1 through 3 in the instructions.  These bits generally went together well.  the tub is painted with Alclad aluminum, the suspension with Tamiya LP-5 semi gloss black lacquer.   I am not sure, but I think the lacquer semi gloss black is a bit flatter than the regular Tamiya acrylic X-18 semi gloss black.