Ryland Craze
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Ryland Craze reacted to yvesvidal in HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
The way this kit is designed is very similar to the CAF Model kit of the 1/48th HMS Bellona, that I completed a few months ago. The major difference is that in the CAF model kit, you have to assemble every single frame by using the plan. The result is that it is not as precise and perfect as this kit is, since all frames are pre-cut in the Portland Scale Ship kit. The plus for CAF, is that the frames are made of sherry tree wood which makes it more precious in a certain way. Otherwise, the keel and the core of the hull are very similar.
The support or cradle for the hull is nicer in your kit. CAF Model has never been very good at providing decent support for their model.
Yves
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Ryland Craze reacted to Trussben in HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
Here is the midship jig installed.
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Ryland Craze reacted to glbarlow in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48
The pear is complimentary. I wouldn’t paint it.
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Ryland Craze reacted to Pirate adam in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48
I think it would be a shame to paint it black. The wood is beautiful.
Adam
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Ryland Craze reacted to FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48
While my Winnie is going to stay upright forever soon, before I continue planking the deck, I first shifted my attention making a nice stand for it. It’s 200X600mm. A friend made and milled the lovely edge to the pear plank in four passes...
The pear is beautiful wood, but I doubt if it will match the Alaskan Yellow Cedar when treated with whipe on poly… I’m also thinking of painting it black, as it shouldn’t be a distraction from the model. What do you think?
Hope to post updates on the deck planking soon!
Frank.
E6E5691D-1888-43ED-AE26-DD7ED0C6863B.mov -
Ryland Craze reacted to glbarlow in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
I think your’re on the right track, no need to change
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Ryland Craze reacted to shauer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
Frank, thank you for taking the time to put together such a well thought-out reply. I will definitely follow your advice on maintaining the correct angles on the second wale plank.
I was typing up my response when I saw Glenn's reply which answered my last question that this area will not be directly visible on the final model. Thanks Glenn!
Based on this feedback is sounds like I can continue as I am with the exposed end grain of the bottom planks and it will not be visible? Is this correct?
Of course the other option is to remove the aft portions of the 2 strakes of bottom planking on each side and possibly the lower planks for the counter and replace all of those while correcting the joint to hide the bottom plank's end grain. I feel this would be necessary only if the results of this correction would be visible.
Thanks again for the support, I really appreciate it.
Any other opinions on how I should proceed? (keep going as-is, or redo it?)
Steve
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Ryland Craze reacted to palmerit in Spiling Advice for the Novice
Agreed. It’ll probably take me another couple of models before I completely “get it”. You know you’ve really gotten the right bending in both directions (as well as chamfering the edge) when the piece of plank fits into place as if you were putting together a plastic or LEGO model.
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Ryland Craze reacted to Trussben in HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
All of the bulkheads and stiffners have been glued to the former and themselves, this thing is now rock solid and a very sturdy platform for everything thats to come.
I have begun installing all of the jigs that will support the upper parts until the model has been planked on the outside, these jigs are NOT to be glued to the model as they will be removed later for all the internal work, here you can see the forward one.
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Ryland Craze reacted to king derelict in Mughal Warrior XVII/XVIII Century by king derelict- FINISHED - Pegaso - 75mm
A bit more progress today, filling in the blanks and starting the face. I bought a bottle of Vallejos dark flesh and I don’t like it, at least for this subject. It has a very yellow cast to it and is not the skin tone I would associate with a Moghul. I started shading it out but was too impatient and messed up the eyes and lips so tomorrow I will start over again with the basic skin tone and try again.
Generally I think it’s coming together. And the big reveal for the day.
I’m fairly happy with it. Certainly I’m not going to turn it into a bearskin and admit defeat.
Decisions are now needed on the details in his tunic and sash. Probably need to practice first and see what I can accomplish with my smallest brush.
Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments.
Alan
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Ryland Craze reacted to Desertanimal in Painting (and Staining) Basswood and Dealing with "Fuzz"
The only real way to find what looks good is to do some tests. In full size woodworking we’ll always have tests with and without sealer, toner, stain etc. all with various topcoats. If that’s what we’re trying. Though topcoats don’t change much.
A golden shellac might look nice. Could give a warm color like wipe on poly can do.
Chris
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Ryland Craze reacted to Chuck in Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
Thank You for saying...
French Style Lantern version one is now available in 1/4" scale with glass insert. Assembled just as the last one I showed. These are after Boudriot.
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Ryland Craze reacted to FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
This is how I would continue with your counter / bottom planking and second lower wale plank: paint the edge black and glue and clamp it on.
Only sand the aft edge of the lower wale plank flush with the counter planks.
Maybe first sand the two lower planks that already touch the counter planks a little flatter in a parallel line with the hollow bended edge of the lower counter plank.
The side of the lower longitudal plank that touches the lower wale plank could have been beveled more and more in a bigger angle when moving aft, so that the edge between these two planks would heve become sharper
moving backwards to the counter....
But just glueing the second lower wale plank on top will be fine I think after just a little sanding the planks to simulate this 'sharper edge when moving more and more aft '... I hope I'm not writing jibberish to you here...
Ofcourse there's a little twist in the lower wale plank you have to bring in with a drop of water and your little travel iron.
Frank.
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Ryland Craze reacted to ccoyle in Spiling Advice for the Novice
Sound advice! I had more or less the same experience with spiling
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Ryland Craze reacted to acaron41120 in Spiling Advice for the Novice
To all modelers who are new or semi-experienced, spiling could be a conundrum. Yes, there are many different articles and book sections/chapters that explain it; sort of. I was in the same predicament as many of us have been but here's a suggestion. Yes, read about how to do spiling but then put the book down and get out there and try it out. Yes, you MAY mess it up but try it again and you'll get it. For me it just sort of happened after I got tired of reading and said to myself, "Self...get in your boat shed and just try spiling." Wouldn't you know it...after looking at my first try mess-up for a few minutes, the light came on and on my second try everything just fell in place. So if you're bothered by spiling or if the subject just makes you cringe, just tell yourself, "Self! Get out there and start spiling!"
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Ryland Craze reacted to westwood in HMS Portland 1770 by westwood - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
It looks like I've finished the keel.
But I'm still thinking of adding - simulating nails to the keel.
Here is a test with an 0,5 mm drill bit.
I don't see them much on the contemporary models but I have done them on Winnie and probably will do them now.
What do you think? Should I do it?
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Ryland Craze reacted to Y.T. in Saws and TPI
I bought all three. 24 TPI for rougher cuts. I use 32 the most.
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Ryland Craze reacted to DocRob in Brabham BT45 by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 - multimedia
You are right Yves, the exhausts look like Alien entrails and they are slippery as eels, when test fitting. It must be hard to design the exhausts with the idea of getting all twelve tubes at the same length.
Cheers Rob
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Ryland Craze reacted to catopower in Yacht Mary by catopower - FINISHED - Mamoli Dusek - 1:54 - An Inherited Model
Yesterday, I had the day off, so I took the opportunity to add the topsail and finish tying off all the running rigging. I ended up having to belay a lot of the lines incorrectly, but you can't tell in most cases. In other cases, I figure that I'll be adding rope coils at a later date to hide some of those details.
Flags are yet to go on, but I'm no longer feeling pressed for time to get the model done for the IPMS show this weekend. And, in any case, I should have time to get the flags done by tomorrow.
Would like to have braced the topsail around more, but the spreader yard was starting to hit the port shrouds and I din't want to deform them. Also, not sure what others do about this, but that spreader yard has no lines that pull down on it. On most ships, you at least have the sheet lines, which can be rigged to apply some downward pressure. As a result, the spreader yard halliard was too slack. So, I cheated, and if you look really closely, there's a thin black thread pulling the yard down, tied off to the staysail sheet horse. It's hardly noticeable, and it works!
Anyway, flags are next...
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Ryland Craze reacted to catopower in Yacht Mary by catopower - FINISHED - Mamoli Dusek - 1:54 - An Inherited Model
Thanks Julian, I appreciate your comments. I have to admit that as much trouble as I've had in the past with uneven bulkheads and such, the Mamoli kits can look really nice when completed. It always surprises me when I see a completed Mamoli kit.
A friend of mine just built Mamoli's HMS Victory and now working on Mamoli's Royal Louis, looks really nice, and makes me want to build one. I actually have a partially built Victory that someone was giving away as he was leaving the hobby. Nobody else wanted his stuff, so I took all of his stuff to store. I managed to find homes for all of his stuff except this HMS Victory model. I'm thinking maybe I'll try to pick up where he left off. That seems to be a thing with me these days!
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Ryland Craze reacted to mandolinut in Calypso by mandolinut - Billing Boats - 1:45
I did some initial painting of the helicopter today. When dry, the fuselage will need sanding before the next coat of yellow paint is applied. Dry fitted the basic tail section. More to come. The second photo is to show scale. The forward curves of the landing gear will be clipped, and the pontoons will be added to the bottom.
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Ryland Craze reacted to king derelict in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Congratulations. You have created a beautiful model and it’s been fun watching it take shape.
alan
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Ryland Craze reacted to Consitution in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Remarkable result
it was a pleasure following your build
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Ryland Craze reacted to drobinson02199 in Jupiter Locomotive by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:32
Jupiter is completed!
There doesn't seem to be a place in the Gallery for non-ship builds, so I have put my completion photos here.
This was a fun build. A nice break from ships.
Regards,
David
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Ryland Craze reacted to CaptainMac in Chaperon by CaptainMac - Model Shipways - 1:48
Here are a few planking photos...
First-two are the top row being put on:
You can probably make out the slight deck camber that I added here, the original brown edges of the bulkheads still visible down the center:
Current views of the hull:
-- Michael
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