hornet

I purchased the Corel 'Victory' many years ago. The quality of components was very good, in my opinion. But the instructions were atrocious! Being only my third build ( I bit of a little more than I could chew!!) I would not recommend this kit unless you were very experienced - unless the quality of instructions has improved! I eventually finished it (nearly 15 years after purchase!)

I have a put together a similar method of rope coiling. I think these could be a more permanent solution. I have made a number of these `rope coilers' so I can coil multiple ropes and save time. These are `counters' used in primary school to help with maths. (I'm a teacher) They are available on ebay for about $5.00 per 100 (AUS) The beauty of them is that they are transparent so you can see what you are doing! (just search for transparent coloured counters - on ebay) Take two counters and drill a small hole in the centre of each (just large enough to push a push pin through) superglue a push pin to one of the counters. After soaking your rope in a solution of white glue and water, thread the end of it through the counter that does not have the push pin attached. Then push the other counter (with the push pin) through the hole in the bottom counter.( This traps the rope so it won't come loose when you turn it. Now you need to make something on which to mount your rope coiler. I nailed a nail (with the pointy end removed) through a base board. I then drilled a hole through the centre of a piece of dowel which was then placed over the nail . The dowel was loose enough to rotate on the nail. Now place the rope coiler on top of your rotating dowel rod. I have drilled a small hole in the top of the dowel and forced the push pin down so it is firm but the gap between the two counters is enough for the rope to go through (this is adjustable depending on the diameter of the rope being coiled) . Rotate the dowel with one hand while feeding the line between the two counters in a even fashion with the other hand (you can see through the transparent counter to check that all is well!) When complete, remove the rope coiler from the top of the dowel and allow to dry overnight. You can then make more - if you have made multiple rope coilers. After the coil is dry, carefully remove it from the coiler by cutting and levering from the coiler - which can then be reused. Because the counters are thicker and sturdier than a piece of plastic taken from packaging, you will get no flexing and a more uniform result .You now have a good looking rope coil.

I have just completed my first hull coppering attempt. Started small by coppering the hull of the Sloop Norfolk by Modellers Shipyard. I wanted to get a green patina effect but did not want it to take forever and I didn't want to use ammonia or acid as part of the process. I did some research and came up with JAX Green Patina - available on Ebay. I found that the most tedious pat of the process was cleaning the plates. I tried debonder but it was not too successful and I was afraid of using too much of it for fear of loosening the plates. I had been very careful not to use too much glue when fitting the plates so there was not much to clean up. I ended up scraping the worst away (very gently) with a hobby knife then going over the entire model lightly with a fine wire wheel on my dremel. I then used some steel wool and finished up with white vinegar to remove greasy fingerprints. I applied two coats of JAX Green Patina and then lightly rubbed back with steel wool. I did not want too bright a green colour, just a fairly even green tinge. I was happy with the results.

I have found Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish to work quickly and effectively on all copper and brass fittings. Some fittings and cannon may need to be given a rub over with very fine emery paper as they are sometimes covered with a clear coat which stops the blackening working. Some require more soaking than others, but the finish looks better than painting (in my opinion) I found soaking the item in white vinegar - to remove any blemishes or greasy finger marks - prior to the blackening agent was effective. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area as this stuff will take your breath away! The pic following is the stern of the HM Mermaid. Pumps, cannon and other fittings have all been blackened with Birchwood Casey. The Napoleonic Cannon was treated with the same.

Excellent Build Log Dan! My current build - The Norfork - is my fifth Modellers Shipyard kit. I'm not sure that the current kit quality has improved significantly since you built yours though. I too find myself building/replacing many components from solid timber rather than using the ply supplied. I have also just discovered that the filler blocks have been left out of my Norfolk kit as well - not a major problem but still annoying (and not the first time I've had a kit arrive from Modeller's Shipyard minus bits!) .It's not as though the kits are particularly cheap either! I also hate the fact that the plans are not to scale. I recall in an earlier model - the Perseverance I think - not having my brain switched on and cutting a mast to the length shown on the plan rather than the correct length! Not a major mistake, but also annoying. While I'm having a whinge - Why do they supply flags for their kits which are printed on paper? - cheap, cheap, cheap! I had to send to England for some proper ones because the replacement ones from MSY were only printed on one side!! I have built these kits mainly because they relate to Australian Maritime History ( The Norfolk wreck is actually somewhere in Newcastle Harbour) and I think it's great to have a local Australian company producing models appropriate to this country, but I think the Norfolk will be my last....... might try something from Jotika/Caldercraft, they look to be of better quality and are similarly priced. THERE!!! Got it all off my chest!!!!

More completed Perseverance Pics from Hornet .......

I completed the kit Perseverance some time ago (see attached photo) I was quite happy with the plans, both on paper and video - although I found some of Leon Griffiths methods a little `rough and ready.' I completed the standard kit so it did not have the copper plates. I did make a couple of adjustments to the kit however. The dowel supplied for the bowsprit was 12mm (the same as the lower masts). I felt that this was a bit too big and replaced it with 10mm. I also reduced the height of the main companionway by about 15mm. To my eye it looked like an outback dunny as it was in the plan. I also used only one lifeboat on the deck and planked it. It was very difficult to find any other references during the build. The only one I could find was a photo of an old model used as a trophy in a Sydney yacht club. The companionway on this model was a completely different shape to that in the kit. I have completed a number of kits from the Modeller's Shipyard ( Mermaid, Schooner of Port Jackson, Sirius Life Boat) and I a currently working on the Norfolk. Generally speaking they are of quite good quality. I have made some modifications to all these kits - usually replacing ply components with solid timber. However, I would have to agree with Danny - they don't like it if you express any criticism of their kits!! Cheers Hornet

These photos probably aren't in the right order (bit of a techno-cretin) Hope they give the general idea Since I posted this, I have invested in a Byrnes Draw Plate. One of my best investments yet. Beats all other methods of making tree nails hands down (in my humble opinion)

Hi, my first post. I have completed a number of builds over the years but only recently attempted treenailing. My method was as follows: Take a cotterpin/splitpin about 40mm long. File the top of the pin so it is a flat surface. Drill an appropriate sized hole in the flattened surface. I have a Proxxon Drill press and have used 0.5, 0.8 and 1.0mm bits. Mount the cotter pin in a Dremel Multitool and then mount the dremel onto the workbench so the cotter pin faces upwards. I use bamboo skewers as my treenails. I split them longways into four sections and roughly sharpen the end so it can be guided into the hole that I have drilled in the end of the cotter pin. Switching the Dremel to a relativey high speed allows the bamboo to be forced through the hole and the appropriately sized treenail is extruded through the bottom - each treenail is about 0.5 - 0.8mm long (but long enough to do the job). The hole in the cotter pin usually stays sharp enough to get a hundred or so treenails cut. I'm going to experiment using a stainless cotterpin next time as this may have a longer lifespan.