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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    In addition I would like to add that I have supported Modellers shipyard SUBSTANTIALLY over the years. If you look at my signature you will see that 11 of the 12 completed builds were actually Purchased from Modellers Shipyard. I have also purchased many of their DVD's. I estimate that I have spent well in excess of $4000 with the company. My point is that in recent years, in my opinion, their competitiveness and customer service has slipped. I make no apology in pointing this out. Part of being a member of this forum, in my opinion is not only to suggest ideas and ask questions, but to point out shortcomings in the suppliers we have used. In that way new members, or those looking for a new build can shop with far more confidence than was the case before MSW. If you check other threads on this site, you will find that I am an equal opportunity whinger! I gave Caldercraft/JoTika a hammering for poor service as well. Incidentally, Modeller's Shipyard sent their members a survey to complete last year. This may indicate that they are starting to realise that they mayhave a problem. I hope that they use this survey to improve their business. That being the case, I would again be happy to shop with them. P.S. Thank you Duncan for the heads up on Hobby Habit. I will check them out.
  2. hornet
    Call it as I see it Janos, and I'm not the only one. Happy new year!!!!!!
  3. hornet
    Duncan Modellers Shipyard has been around for a long time. They were originally called Coastal Distributors and operated out of Nowra. I bought my first model, the Golden Hind, in about 1984. They are now located west of Sydney and have new owners. Unfortunately, in my opinion, they have not realised that the Internet and online shopping has made the sale of model kits, components, tools and accessories very competitive. If you are interested in another build, have a look at Miniature Steam in Melbourne. They sell Caldercraft kits at very competitive prices. While you are at it, check out the Float A Boat Website (also in Melbourne). They sell a great range of gear.
  4. hornet
    As you can see from my signature, I have built a number of Modeller's Shipyard kits. Their Instructions are usually OK but be careful, they are often NOT drawn to scale. Take careful note of the measurements provided, don't just cut from drawings on the plan. I came a cropper when cutting a mast for one of my builds. I measured it from the drawings on the plan and it ended up being too short. Stupid mistake I know, but it wouldn't have happened if, like most other kit manufacturers, the plans were drawn to scale!!!!! As to them not admitting to errors or omissions in kits, you are not the first (not by a long shot) to encounter this problem with this manufacturer.
  5. hornet
    Now that is a truly beautiful piece of work!!! Thank you for sharing!
  6. hornet
    The Proxxon KS230 is around $200. I have one and it is ok for general cutting but not accurate enough to consistently rip planks. I'm not sure there would be anything available to do what you want for that sort of money. If there is, I'd be interested to know myself!
  7. hornet
    Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used for making flys in flyfishing. There are lots available on EBay. It will grip any block (or any other part for that matter) firmly and allow you both hands free to work. For really small blocks use in combination with a magnifier on a stand.
  8. hornet
    I have the Caldercraft Bounty 'on the shelf'. It will be my next build. I am currently working on the Caldercraft 'Supply'. The second planking walnut planks on this kit were poor quality but the rest of the kit was quite Ok. I have looked through my Caldercraft Bounty Kit and the timber in it is much better than that supplied with 'Supply' - maybe because it was quite a lot more $$$$. It comes standard with copper plates and the plans seem quite good. So as Geoff says, take a look!
  9. hornet
    Hi Pat, Any chance you could post more pics of your friend's Chris Craft. It looks great from the one photo you have posted already.
  10. hornet
    Looks very interesting. His other books on Cook, Flinders and Bligh may be worth investigating as well.
  11. hornet
    WOW, 0.5mm now that is amazing. The only way I can manage to find the smaller ones I've used when they have dropped onto the floor is with a magnet. I have had about a 75% recovery success rate (that is on a carpeted floor)
  12. hornet
    The screws in the box I got ranged from about 1.2 mm in diameter down to about 0.75mm in diameter. This is 0.03 inches. I guess if you wanted smaller you would have to pay the price, but 0.75mm is pretty tiny!!!
  13. hornet
    I just checked out the cost of these screws on the link provided. WOW!!!!! They are expensive. If you search for 'eyeglasses screws' on EBay you will find a box of various sized miniature screws costs around $5.00. They are stainless steel. I bought a box. There are enough screws (and some nuts) to last the average builder a lifetime!!
  14. hornet
    A couple more simple ideas Take a used No. 11 blade and grind it down as shown in pic below: Slit a piece of dowel and insert the blade so that the square(reverse) end is protruding from the dowel. Bind with cord. Because the `butt end' of the blade is `square,' it makes a good scraper to remove excess glue for jobs such as fitting the second layer of planking. Pegs screwed to a T shaped base board are good for holding parts for gluing and painting. Golf tees have a large base which is easy to glue to a board. I grind down the tee shaft to the desired diameter then use them to hold cannon for airbrushing.
  15. hornet
    As mentioned in other posts on this site, LEGO blocks and clamps work well for squaring a frame. They are, by design, very flexible and perfectly square.
  16. hornet
    Try reading this, sounds a bit complicated but makes sense. http://www.austinsms.org/Straightening-Warped-Plastic-Parts.php
  17. hornet
    No problem Alexey, I think that this machine is well worth the money. The fact that I could pay via payal and shipping was included was great ( postage/shipping can be a BIG issue 'Down Under') I thought the postage was very quick and I also liked the fact that you sent an email with a photo of the package attached when you dispatched it. I get a lot of stuff via mail and this is the first time I have seen it done.
  18. hornet
    Mine arrived about 3 weeks after I put in the order. I got the serving machine 2.5. The power supply is shipped separately from China because Australia uses a different (240 volt) system. I found that the machine worked much better after I lubricated all the shafts (where they go through the `posts') with fishing reel grease. This grease is designed to use with small gears and worked particularly well when I engaged the power option which would not turn very well on the very lowest settings before greasing. I also made an addition/modification to the machine by adding another shaft to hold my seizing cotton rather than having it sitting loose in front of the machine. There was just enough room on the `feet' of the `posts' to add a couple of right angled brackets that I cut and folded from some scrap perspex. I used the same diameter threaded rod as was used in the other shafts on the machine.
  19. hornet
    Hi, might I suggest copper plating the hull as Russ says, then painting the plates - either by brush or better still an airbrush - the colour that you are trying to achieve. I know that hobby stores such as Frontline Hobbies here in Newcastle offer a mind blowing array of colours in both acrylic and enamel. I'm sure one would match the colour you are trying to achieve.
  20. hornet
    STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS FOR EYGLASSES HINGES Available on ebay for around $5.00 per box - enough to last a lifetime. I sometimes have trouble getting nails holding gudgeons and pintles to stay in the rudder (even with glue) I have experimented with using these micro screws instead Screws have CA glue applied to thread. Once in place I file back the heads. Then paint!! I'm sure there are other ways to use these micro screws in a build.
  21. hornet
    I have the proxxon DS 230/E which appears to be the same as the 115. It performs very well.
  22. hornet
    CONNECTOR SLEEVES These are used to loop nylon fishing line. They are crushed to hold the line in place but are made of brass and come in different lengths and diameters. Once the protective covering is removed (inside and out) they can be used with brass wire and copper sheeting to make gudgeons and pintles. They are available at most fishing tackle stores I cut one in half to produce the `hinge' part of the pintle and gudgeon. After a bit of silver soldering and blackening, they come out quite well!!
  23. hornet
    Hi Graham You picked a tough one to start on!! I have the Caldercraft Endeavour on the shelf but won't start her till I have finished the Supply & the Bounty. I was recently aboard the Endeavour Replica when it visited Newcastle Harbour. While others were taking `selfies,' I was taking about 150 snaps of bolts, ropes, window frames and the like!! I think people thought me mad!! I've included a pic of the replica's bow. It may help your build. If you need any other pics along the way (I photographed pretty much everything) PM me.
  24. hornet
    A cheap and cheerful dremel clamp/holder. Pics are self explanatory
  25. hornet
    After considering this observation, I attempted to make the two part epoxy more cloudy. Firstly I mixed a small amount of acrylic paint to a 1 1/2 centimetre puddle of epoxy. On the first picture I used about twice the amount as on the hobby knife below. It came out quite opaque. The second picture I used about the same as on the hobby knife. The acrylic mixed OK but I think it was a little grainy (visible on the second picture only.) Only a small amount of paint was used I then tried mixing enamel paint with the epoxy. I used about the same amount as with the acrylic. It mixed in much easier. The pic below sort of shows the result but it was difficult to get a clear shot. The epoxy is still transparent but slightly milky/cloudy.

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