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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. I started using an airbrush about 6 months ago. I use acrylics. Once you get your paint consistency and pressure right, you won't go back. Cleanup is easy. I also polyurethane with the airbrush. I use a 50-50 mix of poly and low odour turps and it works well. For painting acrylics I use a double action airbrush but for applying the poly I use a cheap single action airbrush. If you decide to go with an airbrush, make sure you get a compressor with a tank. It is quieter and you get a more consistent result. Make sure you have a moisture trap installed as well. I agree with NMBROOK about applying thin coats and sanding back between each. One of the big advantages of using an airbrush is the ability to apply very thin coats. I use a mix of 50% paint and 50-50 distilled water and clear windex. Even with 5 - 6 coats you can still see the wood grain - something I like. As to painting parts before assembly, If you are going to airbrush you will need to do this. I agree with S.Colman, plan ahead and paint what you can before you assemble. On my current build - HMS Supply, I have painted all planks (that needed painting), stern facia, fore deck facia, stem post, rudder, capping rails, and deck furniture with an airbrush before fitting. There are still a lot of places that I use a brush, for example window frames, but I'm sold on using my airbrush!!
  2. I needed to drill some holes in a position where I could not get the dremel. A drill bit extension was required. Taking an old `Rabbit Ears' TV aeriel that I had lying around, I found that the shaft of my proxxon drill bits fitted snugly into a section that I cut from the end. The fact that these telescopic `Rabbit Ears' sections taper, means that a section could be found and cut to fit most drill bit diameters. I then inserted a broken proxxon drill bit into one end and silver soldered it in place. The drill bit I wanted to use also fitted snuggly in the opposite end. I found that it was a tight enough fit to use `as is' but if too loose, it could be soldered into place as well.
  3. Sorry to disagree with you Janos, but if you read Duncan's initial posts he said that there were some errors with the kit. He also said that Modeller's Shipyard did not admit to all these errors. This struck a chord with me as I and others on this forum have had similar experiences with Modeller's Shipyard. Duncan's issues seemed to be minor and yes, it appears he is satisfied with Modeller's Shipyards response. THIS IS GREAT!!! Maybe complaints from members of this forum, including myself, have made them think more about their customer service. When I initially read his thread I thought he had just started the build (rather than producing the build log after completing the build - as I later realised) for this reason I also mentioned the problem I had with the Modellers Shipyard plans NOT BEING TO SCALE - something that had tripped me up in the past. Because this was his first build I felt that I should mention this to Duncan as well as it is, in my opinion, a relevant issue. I mentioned Miniature Steam and Float a Boat to Duncan because they are good companies which I was directed to by other members of this site. I see nothing wrong with giving a new member some 'good oil' on Aussie Suppliers - particularly those who provide excellent prices and service. You have every right to disagree with me and express your equally valid opinions but I don't have to agree with you. Best wishes. P.S sorry Duncan if you too feel I have hijacked your build log. It was never my intention. I will say no more on this matter and look forward to following your build.
  4. Duncan, I also found that the use of contact cement was very difficult. Not to mention rather smelly. I now use Aquadhere Interior Quickset. I normally put a small dob of CA gel glue on the end of the plank to hold it while the aquadhere sets . This only takes a couple of minutes at most. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can move or remove the plank if needed before the glue sets. This is not possible when you use contact cement. Cleanup is also much easier. Cheers
  5. In addition I would like to add that I have supported Modellers shipyard SUBSTANTIALLY over the years. If you look at my signature you will see that 11 of the 12 completed builds were actually Purchased from Modellers Shipyard. I have also purchased many of their DVD's. I estimate that I have spent well in excess of $4000 with the company. My point is that in recent years, in my opinion, their competitiveness and customer service has slipped. I make no apology in pointing this out. Part of being a member of this forum, in my opinion is not only to suggest ideas and ask questions, but to point out shortcomings in the suppliers we have used. In that way new members, or those looking for a new build can shop with far more confidence than was the case before MSW. If you check other threads on this site, you will find that I am an equal opportunity whinger! I gave Caldercraft/JoTika a hammering for poor service as well. Incidentally, Modeller's Shipyard sent their members a survey to complete last year. This may indicate that they are starting to realise that they mayhave a problem. I hope that they use this survey to improve their business. That being the case, I would again be happy to shop with them. P.S. Thank you Duncan for the heads up on Hobby Habit. I will check them out.
  6. Call it as I see it Janos, and I'm not the only one. Happy new year!!!!!!
  7. Duncan Modellers Shipyard has been around for a long time. They were originally called Coastal Distributors and operated out of Nowra. I bought my first model, the Golden Hind, in about 1984. They are now located west of Sydney and have new owners. Unfortunately, in my opinion, they have not realised that the Internet and online shopping has made the sale of model kits, components, tools and accessories very competitive. If you are interested in another build, have a look at Miniature Steam in Melbourne. They sell Caldercraft kits at very competitive prices. While you are at it, check out the Float A Boat Website (also in Melbourne). They sell a great range of gear.
  8. As you can see from my signature, I have built a number of Modeller's Shipyard kits. Their Instructions are usually OK but be careful, they are often NOT drawn to scale. Take careful note of the measurements provided, don't just cut from drawings on the plan. I came a cropper when cutting a mast for one of my builds. I measured it from the drawings on the plan and it ended up being too short. Stupid mistake I know, but it wouldn't have happened if, like most other kit manufacturers, the plans were drawn to scale!!!!! As to them not admitting to errors or omissions in kits, you are not the first (not by a long shot) to encounter this problem with this manufacturer.
  9. Now that is a truly beautiful piece of work!!! Thank you for sharing!
  10. The Proxxon KS230 is around $200. I have one and it is ok for general cutting but not accurate enough to consistently rip planks. I'm not sure there would be anything available to do what you want for that sort of money. If there is, I'd be interested to know myself!
  11. Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used for making flys in flyfishing. There are lots available on EBay. It will grip any block (or any other part for that matter) firmly and allow you both hands free to work. For really small blocks use in combination with a magnifier on a stand.
  12. I have the Caldercraft Bounty 'on the shelf'. It will be my next build. I am currently working on the Caldercraft 'Supply'. The second planking walnut planks on this kit were poor quality but the rest of the kit was quite Ok. I have looked through my Caldercraft Bounty Kit and the timber in it is much better than that supplied with 'Supply' - maybe because it was quite a lot more $$$$. It comes standard with copper plates and the plans seem quite good. So as Geoff says, take a look!
  13. Hi Pat, Any chance you could post more pics of your friend's Chris Craft. It looks great from the one photo you have posted already.
  14. Looks very interesting. His other books on Cook, Flinders and Bligh may be worth investigating as well.
  15. WOW, 0.5mm now that is amazing. The only way I can manage to find the smaller ones I've used when they have dropped onto the floor is with a magnet. I have had about a 75% recovery success rate (that is on a carpeted floor)
  16. The screws in the box I got ranged from about 1.2 mm in diameter down to about 0.75mm in diameter. This is 0.03 inches. I guess if you wanted smaller you would have to pay the price, but 0.75mm is pretty tiny!!!
  17. I just checked out the cost of these screws on the link provided. WOW!!!!! They are expensive. If you search for 'eyeglasses screws' on EBay you will find a box of various sized miniature screws costs around $5.00. They are stainless steel. I bought a box. There are enough screws (and some nuts) to last the average builder a lifetime!!
  18. A couple more simple ideas Take a used No. 11 blade and grind it down as shown in pic below: Slit a piece of dowel and insert the blade so that the square(reverse) end is protruding from the dowel. Bind with cord. Because the `butt end' of the blade is `square,' it makes a good scraper to remove excess glue for jobs such as fitting the second layer of planking. Pegs screwed to a T shaped base board are good for holding parts for gluing and painting. Golf tees have a large base which is easy to glue to a board. I grind down the tee shaft to the desired diameter then use them to hold cannon for airbrushing.
  19. As mentioned in other posts on this site, LEGO blocks and clamps work well for squaring a frame. They are, by design, very flexible and perfectly square.
  20. Try reading this, sounds a bit complicated but makes sense. http://www.austinsms.org/Straightening-Warped-Plastic-Parts.php
  21. No problem Alexey, I think that this machine is well worth the money. The fact that I could pay via payal and shipping was included was great ( postage/shipping can be a BIG issue 'Down Under') I thought the postage was very quick and I also liked the fact that you sent an email with a photo of the package attached when you dispatched it. I get a lot of stuff via mail and this is the first time I have seen it done.
  22. Mine arrived about 3 weeks after I put in the order. I got the serving machine 2.5. The power supply is shipped separately from China because Australia uses a different (240 volt) system. I found that the machine worked much better after I lubricated all the shafts (where they go through the `posts') with fishing reel grease. This grease is designed to use with small gears and worked particularly well when I engaged the power option which would not turn very well on the very lowest settings before greasing. I also made an addition/modification to the machine by adding another shaft to hold my seizing cotton rather than having it sitting loose in front of the machine. There was just enough room on the `feet' of the `posts' to add a couple of right angled brackets that I cut and folded from some scrap perspex. I used the same diameter threaded rod as was used in the other shafts on the machine.
  23. Hi, might I suggest copper plating the hull as Russ says, then painting the plates - either by brush or better still an airbrush - the colour that you are trying to achieve. I know that hobby stores such as Frontline Hobbies here in Newcastle offer a mind blowing array of colours in both acrylic and enamel. I'm sure one would match the colour you are trying to achieve.
  24. STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS FOR EYGLASSES HINGES Available on ebay for around $5.00 per box - enough to last a lifetime. I sometimes have trouble getting nails holding gudgeons and pintles to stay in the rudder (even with glue) I have experimented with using these micro screws instead Screws have CA glue applied to thread. Once in place I file back the heads. Then paint!! I'm sure there are other ways to use these micro screws in a build.
  25. I have the proxxon DS 230/E which appears to be the same as the 115. It performs very well.
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