hornet
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Everything posted by hornet
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I completed the kit Perseverance some time ago (see attached photo) I was quite happy with the plans, both on paper and video - although I found some of Leon Griffiths methods a little `rough and ready.' I completed the standard kit so it did not have the copper plates. I did make a couple of adjustments to the kit however. The dowel supplied for the bowsprit was 12mm (the same as the lower masts). I felt that this was a bit too big and replaced it with 10mm. I also reduced the height of the main companionway by about 15mm. To my eye it looked like an outback dunny as it was in the plan. I also used only one lifeboat on the deck and planked it. It was very difficult to find any other references during the build. The only one I could find was a photo of an old model used as a trophy in a Sydney yacht club. The companionway on this model was a completely different shape to that in the kit. I have completed a number of kits from the Modeller's Shipyard ( Mermaid, Schooner of Port Jackson, Sirius Life Boat) and I a currently working on the Norfolk. Generally speaking they are of quite good quality. I have made some modifications to all these kits - usually replacing ply components with solid timber. However, I would have to agree with Danny - they don't like it if you express any criticism of their kits!! Cheers Hornet
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These photos probably aren't in the right order (bit of a techno-cretin) Hope they give the general idea Since I posted this, I have invested in a Byrnes Draw Plate. One of my best investments yet. Beats all other methods of making tree nails hands down (in my humble opinion)
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Hi, my first post. I have completed a number of builds over the years but only recently attempted treenailing. My method was as follows: Take a cotterpin/splitpin about 40mm long. File the top of the pin so it is a flat surface. Drill an appropriate sized hole in the flattened surface. I have a Proxxon Drill press and have used 0.5, 0.8 and 1.0mm bits. Mount the cotter pin in a Dremel Multitool and then mount the dremel onto the workbench so the cotter pin faces upwards. I use bamboo skewers as my treenails. I split them longways into four sections and roughly sharpen the end so it can be guided into the hole that I have drilled in the end of the cotter pin. Switching the Dremel to a relativey high speed allows the bamboo to be forced through the hole and the appropriately sized treenail is extruded through the bottom - each treenail is about 0.5 - 0.8mm long (but long enough to do the job). The hole in the cotter pin usually stays sharp enough to get a hundred or so treenails cut. I'm going to experiment using a stainless cotterpin next time as this may have a longer lifespan.
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