Keith_W

I taped all of the decorative metal pieces on the starboard side to get a run on the hull. It took much jugling to get all of them in the proper locations and required a lot of measuring from plan sheets 2 and 17. I then drew a line along the bottom edge from stern to bow and removed the pieces. This line deliniates the top border of the second finish layer of planking. I will now do the same to the port side.
 
Vince P.

Check how full your inbox is. If it hits 100%, you won't be able to send or receive any more messages. Time to delete some old messages to free up inbox space.

looking for the jig for the jewelers saw I found the chap who I was looking for, William Robertson designed a special holder to cut dovetails and other joints with a jewelers saw, i am still looking for this jig but in the meantime enjoy his amazing work.
I think we could all use a set of these tools.

 
Michael

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  
 
I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

Louie, any scrap wood that you remove from your pear trunk can be used for smoking food. I often chuck pear chips into my Kamado smoker and get amazing ribs. I know this is REALLY off topic but here are some ribs I smoked with cherry wood:
 

 
So if you cut up your pear branch, first dibs on the offcuts! I'll even drive up to Ballarat to collect it
 
If you can't make a ship model out of the wood, you may as well use it to flavour your food, eh!!!

Louie, any scrap wood that you remove from your pear trunk can be used for smoking food. I often chuck pear chips into my Kamado smoker and get amazing ribs. I know this is REALLY off topic but here are some ribs I smoked with cherry wood:
 

 
So if you cut up your pear branch, first dibs on the offcuts! I'll even drive up to Ballarat to collect it
 
If you can't make a ship model out of the wood, you may as well use it to flavour your food, eh!!!

Louie, any scrap wood that you remove from your pear trunk can be used for smoking food. I often chuck pear chips into my Kamado smoker and get amazing ribs. I know this is REALLY off topic but here are some ribs I smoked with cherry wood:
 

 
So if you cut up your pear branch, first dibs on the offcuts! I'll even drive up to Ballarat to collect it
 
If you can't make a ship model out of the wood, you may as well use it to flavour your food, eh!!!

Louie, any scrap wood that you remove from your pear trunk can be used for smoking food. I often chuck pear chips into my Kamado smoker and get amazing ribs. I know this is REALLY off topic but here are some ribs I smoked with cherry wood:
 

 
So if you cut up your pear branch, first dibs on the offcuts! I'll even drive up to Ballarat to collect it
 
If you can't make a ship model out of the wood, you may as well use it to flavour your food, eh!!!

Hi Keith,
 
I personally agree with this Kind of openness. It is important to know if there are some strange things about the kit - so I can decide clearly if I want to take this challenge or better not. Of course I would like to build kits like this as the amount of scratch (up to 50 percentr as it was mentioned before) and  it is good to know about it. How dissapointing would it be to purchase a kit and find out, that one cannot walk with the difficulties.
 
For me ist good to know also the "unsatisfying" or "bad" sides as I badly want to manage a Euro Model kit someday. Ist always the thing to Balance between "What do I get" and "What do I want". And therefore every Information is good.
 
Cheerio
 
Max

That's OK Brian, I know that you and others think that my assessment of this kit is overly harsh, and that I am being too critical - but I think it is important to point out where the pitfalls are for people who will follow. To me, I have always found the most helpful build logs are those which clearly point out "Beware of this! Don't make the same mistake as me!". If it wasn't for other build logs which have clearly identified problems and workarounds, my build would be even more sloppy than it already is!

Hi Wombat, interesting name for someone who lives in the UK Are you an Aussie expatriate by any chance?
 
The kit is "all right". It is certainly not a kit in the same way that something provided with Amati is a kit. As mentioned, the instructions are so poor that they may as well not have bothered. It would have been helpful if the instructions gave you a suggested build order, but they don't even do that. If you look at the build logs on MSW, you'll see that each of us are building it in a slightly different order. VinceP has completed the first planking up to the top deck before starting second planking. I plan to start my second planking before I reach this stage to avoid having to invert the model and damaging deck features. Just one example.
 
Things that you would expect to fit (e.g. all the laser cut parts) ... don't fit. This is a critical realization to make very early in your build because (if you are like most normal people), you would be taking reference and locating features off your laser cut parts. You need to accept that the laser cut parts are approximations, as shown by some examples I have highlighted during this build (e.g. the bow bulkheads not reaching down to the keel!). Instead, you absolutely MUST take reference off the plans. This in itself can sometimes be problematic, because the plans don't always clearly show where a feature should be located. A great deal of intuition, study of other builds, and prayer is needed.
 
None of these problems are insurmountable. A much more difficult problem is what you are going to do about some of those fittings! Some (e.g. the gun carriages) can be fabricated. Some others (e.g. gunport hinges) will have to be replaced with third party parts. And some others (e.g. the windows supplied as metal plates) will have to be discarded and made anew. But yet some others are not so easy - e.g. the fine filigree work at the stern, the stanchions, etc. All this could be avoided if Euromodel replaced these parts with photo-etch.
 
They say that Euromodel is more a scratch build than a kit build. That is certainly true, because some of the supplied parts are so substandard that you will need to scratch it yourself anyway.
 
In any case, I am sure it will turn out to be a fine model. I just don't think it is such a great kit.

Hi Wombat, interesting name for someone who lives in the UK Are you an Aussie expatriate by any chance?
 
The kit is "all right". It is certainly not a kit in the same way that something provided with Amati is a kit. As mentioned, the instructions are so poor that they may as well not have bothered. It would have been helpful if the instructions gave you a suggested build order, but they don't even do that. If you look at the build logs on MSW, you'll see that each of us are building it in a slightly different order. VinceP has completed the first planking up to the top deck before starting second planking. I plan to start my second planking before I reach this stage to avoid having to invert the model and damaging deck features. Just one example.
 
Things that you would expect to fit (e.g. all the laser cut parts) ... don't fit. This is a critical realization to make very early in your build because (if you are like most normal people), you would be taking reference and locating features off your laser cut parts. You need to accept that the laser cut parts are approximations, as shown by some examples I have highlighted during this build (e.g. the bow bulkheads not reaching down to the keel!). Instead, you absolutely MUST take reference off the plans. This in itself can sometimes be problematic, because the plans don't always clearly show where a feature should be located. A great deal of intuition, study of other builds, and prayer is needed.
 
None of these problems are insurmountable. A much more difficult problem is what you are going to do about some of those fittings! Some (e.g. the gun carriages) can be fabricated. Some others (e.g. gunport hinges) will have to be replaced with third party parts. And some others (e.g. the windows supplied as metal plates) will have to be discarded and made anew. But yet some others are not so easy - e.g. the fine filigree work at the stern, the stanchions, etc. All this could be avoided if Euromodel replaced these parts with photo-etch.
 
They say that Euromodel is more a scratch build than a kit build. That is certainly true, because some of the supplied parts are so substandard that you will need to scratch it yourself anyway.
 
In any case, I am sure it will turn out to be a fine model. I just don't think it is such a great kit.

Here are a couple more minor kit issues. 
 
 
 
The middle gun deck is supplied pre-cut with a rounded bow section. However, as you can see, the rounded bow section will clash with the front bow filler block. The solution is to simply cut the deck and discard the piece. 
 
  
 
The keel describes a sloppy fit with the false keel. After checking with the plans, and confirming that the top of the keel is supposed to rise to the level of the main deck (if the bowsprit wasn't in the way), I shaved away the area painted in red. I now have a perfectly fitting keel. 
 
 
 
The kit doesn't include a mizzenmast support, so I fabricated one and installed it. 
 

 
My wife returned from a day of shopping to find that I had turned nearly every spare inch of floor space into reading space for Royal William plans! She was not very impressed, especially since I had not kept the modelling door closed and the dust was in the main living area. I had to put a stop to my modelling and vacuum the house.

OVERVIEW AND GENERAL KIT IMPRESSIONS
 

 
The box is really large and heavy, and arrives absolutely packed. Every bit of spare space is taken up by ... peanut foam. I filled up a plastic bag full of these annoying things and was able to get at the kit. 
 
First, the bad: 
 

 
The instructions are not very good (to say the least). For a kit of this complexity, the rather thin instruction booklet only contains THREE pages of instructions, of which the first page is taken up by the history of the ship, and some congratulatory notes. This shot is of the second page, and contains nothing that no experienced modeller wouldn't know. OTOH the plans (see next post) are excellent, however many diagrams in the plans could have been printed on smaller pieces of paper and bound in a booklet instead. As it is, all 17 sheets of plans are too large, unwieldy, and hard to find - which is why I took the trouble of making an index for myself (and for others who may follow). 
 

 
The ships boat is a cast resin item. Whilst it is well cast, other kit manufacturers are offering plank-on-frame boats. Oh yes, only one boat? For a first rate ship? 
 

 
Some of the castings are not very good. Look at how chunky this window is. This will have to go into the bin - I can only hope my skills are up to making a replacement from scratch. 
 

 
Likewise, the ship's lantern is a clumsy looking affair. 
 

 
These are meant to be gunport hinges. 
 

 
And these are meant to be gun carriages! 
 

 
The flags are printed on cloth. I am a little indifferent to the quality of the printing. 
 

 
However, the wood is of decent quality. On some older RW kits, the masts are pre-tapered. On this brand new RW kit, fresh from Italy, the masts are not. No matter, I have a lathe!
 

 
The bulkheads are unbelievably thick and sturdy - 10mm thick! 
 

 
Some other castings, like the figurehead, are excellent. 
 

 
And so are the castings for the stern decorations. 
 

 
... and the side decorations. 
 

 
The blocks are probably the best I have ever seen included in a model kit. Unfortunately, they are all mixed up in a bag. I will have to carefully sort them and put them away. 

Just go to google and type "1/32" into mm". That's it.

Hi Everyone,
 
I thought one final picture of The Sovereign of the Seas in her final display spot would be appropriate.
 
 

You can buy a Dremel, but others on MSW also use Proxxon and Foredom. When purchasing a rotary tool, these are (IMHO) the most important considerations:
 
- Price. Dremel is the cheapest and most available, Foredom costs the most.
 
- Chuck diameter. Dremel has the smallest chuck (which limits the size of the tool you can hold). Foredom has the largest.
 
- Flexible shaft. AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY IMO. This allows you to hold the tool with a pencil grip and saves you from having to wrestle a large tool when performing delicate work. All three systems have flexible shafts as an accessory. With Foredom, you have a choice of many different shafts and heads.
 
- Tool bits. All accessories are interchangeable between Dremel, Proxxon, and Foredom - with the notable exception that larger diameter shank tools will not fit if your chuck diameter is too small (see point #2). Just because Dremel has the largest and most available selection of tool bits should NOT influence your decision. You can easily use a Dremel tool bit on a Foredom if you so choose.
 
- Smoothness. Proxxon and Foredom are said to be noticably smoother than Dremel with less rotational eccentricity. Important if you are carving very fine work but not so much if you are using your Dremel as a Drum sander or to cut bits of wood off.
 
- Foot pedal. Only Foredom has a variable speed foot pedal. This is important because your tool is not rotating when you apply it to the workpiece - increasing your precision. Both Dremel and Proxxon can be adapted with an "on-off" pedal, but this does not give you the ability to adjust speed using foot pressure.
 
I have a Dremel and I am happy with it. Good luck with your choice.

Thy copy cat!!!

Thy copy cat!!!

Thy copy cat!!!

Yes there is sanding room built into the planks. The most critical plank to install is the garboard plank, make sure you don't install it too far forward! That was a mistake I made, and a number of other people as well.

Yes Richard, that's what I did. I sanded it back and then planked over it.

Planking down to the keel is now completed. I have also cut out the second row of gunports. Here she is, all sanded down and ready to go ... while I ponder what to do next.
 

 

 

 
My ambition when I started out was to use no filler. Sad to say, I had to resort to the dreadful stuff. At least I didn't have to use much of it! Yes, I know it will be hidden by the second planking, but it would have given me a lot of satisfaction if I did not have to use any of it.

Sapphire, I bought my kit locally from Float A Boat in Ringwood. Their website is terrible, but they are a really friendly bunch. Much more friendly than that Modellers Shipyard guy.
 
http://www.floataboat.com.au/

Hi Saph, when I built my Bounty Launch I compared a few of these models to AOTS:Bounty by Mackay. If you look at my build log you will find scans of relevant pages from different sources when I was checking historic accuracy (link in my signature). Here is a run-down of several different kits:
 
Artesania Latina Bounty Jolly Boat, 1/25 scale, 415mm length: http://www.artesanialatina.net/articulo.aspx?ref=19004&des=hmsbounty-jolly-boat-velas-cosidas
 
This is NOT the Bounty Launch as sailed by Bligh, rather it is an interpretation of the Jolly Boat, which was used for lighter duties. The plywood keel and ribs will be on display, and you will easily be able to see the laminations, so these should preferably be painted over. Otherwise, wood quality is typical Artesania Latina, meaning very good. Pre-sewn sails are included. Instructions are very good, featuring a full colour booklet and a sheet of poorly translated instructions - but this should be enough to help you build the ship.
 
OcCre Bounty Boat, 1/24 scale, 435mm length: http://www.occre.com/model-ship/bounty-boat.html
 
This boat is probably most accurate to the plans provided by Mackay. (Note that I did not say that it is the most historically accurate, because nobody seems to know what the actual Launch looked like). Every detail seems to be true to Mackay - the kit includes a bowsprit, windlass, and hoist. Also, rigging of the masts includes deadeyes. All these are absent on the Model Shipways kit. Unfortunately, again the keel and frame are cut from plywood, meaning that it will be on display. OcCre was founded by a group of former Artesania employees - so the wood is excellent. Instructions are also very good. I think that the sails are also pre-sewn, although my recollection is a little sketchy.
 
 
Model Shipways HMS Bounty Launch, 1/16 scale, 438mm length: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS1850
 
This kit deviates from the other two in several ways. It is the ONLY kit to be built over a plug. It is also the only kit to feature laser cut planking strakes, so you don't have to taper planks yourself. Every part of the boat is made of limewood. Limewood is a rather unattractive wood, although it is easily worked. You will have to stain it or paint it. I chose to do both. Instructions are excellent, BY FAR the best instructions you will ever see included in a model boat kit. Unfortunately, the kit deviates from Mackay and other sources in a number of ways, although most of these can be rectified by kit bashing. For example, the kit features gunwales - a feature missing in other sources I looked at (Mackay, NMM).
 
If you want a kit that looks closest to the Launch as set out by Mackay, I would recommend the OcCre. If you want an easily built boat, I would go Model Shipways. Good luck with your choice.