Thistle17

Wonder of all wonders. Using the Google Reset function worked this AM. Resetting each element, cache, cookies, history independently did not do it. Thank you Mark!
 
JOE

Well, it appears that while I was away and using my laptop I used another browser. That browser automatically admits me. I tried clearing its cache, cookies and site preferences to no avail as Google Search still requires me to log in. I will continue to work it.
 
Joe

Hmmm! Tried this 2X and it did not work. Any other suggestions. Could it be it still recognizes my laptop id?
 
Joe

James I have been a member for over 5 years but seem to have to sign in each time I enter the web site inspite of clicking the "Remeber Me" selection. This is new after I returned from a trip last week where I used my laptop rather than my desktop which is the most frequently used device.
Joe

Impressive model and equally impressive execution!
Joe

Impressive model and equally impressive execution!
Joe

Impressive model and equally impressive execution!
Joe

As indicated to Pete we are pushing to get the model back to the museum prior to winter with the top sides painted. An impediment to that goal has been the refinement of the hull et al surfaces. Between weather extremes of hot, humid to dry cool some seams have opened up under prime. This is not a surprise as it is a wood model after all. And because of its size these voids just scream out at us.
 
I have been searching for a suitable glaze or filler for these voids that was easy to work with. This has been an ongoing search. Well 2 weeks ago I stumbled on a product. The one shown is easy to apply, can be damp finger controlled in spread, dries hard in a day or so, fills small voids and cleans up with water on hands and applicators. And almost as importantly it does not seem to dry up in the tube like my other tube wood fillers. The one last test is compatibility with primer and paint. It is even a grey color!
 
Joe

As indicated to Pete we are pushing to get the model back to the museum prior to winter with the top sides painted. An impediment to that goal has been the refinement of the hull et al surfaces. Between weather extremes of hot, humid to dry cool some seams have opened up under prime. This is not a surprise as it is a wood model after all. And because of its size these voids just scream out at us.
 
I have been searching for a suitable glaze or filler for these voids that was easy to work with. This has been an ongoing search. Well 2 weeks ago I stumbled on a product. The one shown is easy to apply, can be damp finger controlled in spread, dries hard in a day or so, fills small voids and cleans up with water on hands and applicators. And almost as importantly it does not seem to dry up in the tube like my other tube wood fillers. The one last test is compatibility with primer and paint. It is even a grey color!
 
Joe

Well a very grateful thank you for sharing this trove of info. As we are nearing the detailing stage of the model this should prove invaluable. We usually do try to do continued research on this project because of it's storied past and the interesting way ( not withstanding its confounding and progressive disclosures) it was buil and modified during service but of late it has been an off/on order of build/
 
Joe

As indicated to Pete we are pushing to get the model back to the museum prior to winter with the top sides painted. An impediment to that goal has been the refinement of the hull et al surfaces. Between weather extremes of hot, humid to dry cool some seams have opened up under prime. This is not a surprise as it is a wood model after all. And because of its size these voids just scream out at us.
 
I have been searching for a suitable glaze or filler for these voids that was easy to work with. This has been an ongoing search. Well 2 weeks ago I stumbled on a product. The one shown is easy to apply, can be damp finger controlled in spread, dries hard in a day or so, fills small voids and cleans up with water on hands and applicators. And almost as importantly it does not seem to dry up in the tube like my other tube wood fillers. The one last test is compatibility with primer and paint. It is even a grey color!
 
Joe

As indicated to Pete we are pushing to get the model back to the museum prior to winter with the top sides painted. An impediment to that goal has been the refinement of the hull et al surfaces. Between weather extremes of hot, humid to dry cool some seams have opened up under prime. This is not a surprise as it is a wood model after all. And because of its size these voids just scream out at us.
 
I have been searching for a suitable glaze or filler for these voids that was easy to work with. This has been an ongoing search. Well 2 weeks ago I stumbled on a product. The one shown is easy to apply, can be damp finger controlled in spread, dries hard in a day or so, fills small voids and cleans up with water on hands and applicators. And almost as importantly it does not seem to dry up in the tube like my other tube wood fillers. The one last test is compatibility with primer and paint. It is even a grey color!
 
Joe

Well a very grateful thank you for sharing this trove of info. As we are nearing the detailing stage of the model this should prove invaluable. We usually do try to do continued research on this project because of it's storied past and the interesting way ( not withstanding its confounding and progressive disclosures) it was buil and modified during service but of late it has been an off/on order of build/
 
Joe

As indicated to Pete we are pushing to get the model back to the museum prior to winter with the top sides painted. An impediment to that goal has been the refinement of the hull et al surfaces. Between weather extremes of hot, humid to dry cool some seams have opened up under prime. This is not a surprise as it is a wood model after all. And because of its size these voids just scream out at us.
 
I have been searching for a suitable glaze or filler for these voids that was easy to work with. This has been an ongoing search. Well 2 weeks ago I stumbled on a product. The one shown is easy to apply, can be damp finger controlled in spread, dries hard in a day or so, fills small voids and cleans up with water on hands and applicators. And almost as importantly it does not seem to dry up in the tube like my other tube wood fillers. The one last test is compatibility with primer and paint. It is even a grey color!
 
Joe

Well a very grateful thank you for sharing this trove of info. As we are nearing the detailing stage of the model this should prove invaluable. We usually do try to do continued research on this project because of it's storied past and the interesting way ( not withstanding its confounding and progressive disclosures) it was buil and modified during service but of late it has been an off/on order of build/
 
Joe

Thinking back to when such a technique was not available one has to admire those builders of "yesterdays"models. You continue to refine laser fabrication each time you advance this build. Your techniques put this project within reach of so many more of us than was possible in these past few years. I hope everyone appreciates your engineering efforts.
Joe

Beautiful execution Glen! Inspirational!
 
Joe

And thank you Glenn for the encouragement and alert. I have been looking ahead and have anticipated the need in this area. I am plodding ahead with the gun port lower sills as I write this. Indeed boring and annoying as the placement of those members is such a pain. I have found that the only good way to fit those members is to use my Byrnes sander and carefully tune them to fit. It is surprising that with all the time I took with the bulkhead positioning that I find when using Chucks measurement of the members right at the strong back by the time I get out to their extremities they are quite different! I have had to clamp them in place to hold their position in most cases. I will also add the members in the areas where the gun ports are absent to make the assembly more rigid.
 
One amusing thing I found was that my "clever" method to hold the fragile uprights in place with spot glued battens had to be removed to make the sill and filler install work as I had no lateral movement capability.. Seemed like a good idea at the time!
 
I do have one question that maybe folks can help me with though. I have yet to run across an indication of just how thin the inside of the uprights of each bulkhead should be sanded after I finish the hull planking. Is there a measurement stated somewhere?
 
Joe

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

Thanks Frank! I may be a slow learner but all the wonderful work others have shared keeps me motivated. I marvel at those amongst us who can pull it off the very first time.
Joe

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

Nicely done Gary. I also like that bow filler. Besides adding more surface for adhesion it makes the "sweep" so much more true.
Joe

I just tuned into your build and plan to add you to my list of member builds.
 
I don't revel in your problems.The transom is not an easy area to construct as many are finding out.  Even the most experienced members have had either issues or have had cause to pause in that area. With those quarter galleys counting so much on transom correctness it separates this model from others such as Cheerful. I have been struggling with the transom on my build. Through some self inflicted wounds, problems related to doing enough homework, moving too fast and the like have me now in a transom restoration.
 
I find your methodology and process instructive. Thank you.
 
Joe