davyboy

Here a small in between from my small series about ships at the end of their career. A simple hoeker wreck stranded at the beach. I think Emiel had more work creating this image than I did. Human figures by Artitec.

Aft Platform
 
Time to report on my progress. This time it is the aft platforms. But before doing that, I need  to mention that I finally discovered where the small triangular pieces of chapter 2  are going. These complete the last cant frame at the transom as shown in the photos below, before and after fairing. Yes they can be omitted, but they should help to secure the corner of the side plank that will be glued later.
 

For the platform framing, I proceeded as before with cardboard height references. To get to the proper height I needed to do more fairing of the frames. It is a bit tricky to get all those beams a the right position with clean adjustment at the frame.  Here it is very helpful to work with a card board template of the platforms. 
 

I found it easier to assemble the platforms separately.  It easier to cut out the hatches and sand the planking. 

The upper platform was done the same way. 

Adjusting the upper platform height is easier as the bottom platform and the bottom of the transom can be used as reference for the fore and aft ends, respectively. The inboard great cabin planking expansion (plan sheet four) is also useful to check that the upper platform is at the correct height. Here are a few shots of the completed platforms.
 


 
I can now probably do the cabin wall planking while waiting for the next chapters.
 
 
 
 

Preparation of the rear quarterdeck, with usual test positioning of the clamps, before gluing :

The interlocked pillar and the aft platform should be glued in simultaneously, a bit of a stressful glue-up.
I scuffed up the glue contact spots with a curved riffler file, taking care not to leave finger marks all around. 

Now the whole platform-pillar-maststep assembly is permanently in place! Slightly crooked (was relying too much on pencil marks, lesson learned), but no one would know  

 
Almost forgot to record the installation process, but it is straightforward - scuff the tenon with a light touch of a diamond file, mask around the mortise to simplify the cleanup, brush off any squeeze-out with a damp stiff bristle brush.
Then put the deck on to lock the pillar in its final position and leave it for a day to properly dry (I was installing two pillars at a time).

Surprisingly that approach worked perfectly! Despite a tiny contact area, the mortise-and-tenon joints keep pillars tightly locked, they feel quite rigid if you try to wiggle them. And the deck pops in and out like a charm! It gets really locked in place by deck clamp notches and the pillars, only a light touch required to put it in place.
Even a bad video speaks more than any words. It just pops into place, so satisfying!  
 
 
And here is the final result:


Pink Ivory looks really cool while fresh and still pink  
Can recommend, a good contrast in both colour and texture, though a bit of a pain to work with.
Here is the way it would be seen once all the decks are finished, doubt it would be easy to see pillars from the top.

Today's work finished and glued, even can turn the little capstan, all like its great brother behind main mast :

Hello everyone
 
The channels an their chains:
 

 

 

 
That brings me to the current status of the work.
I'm not satisfied with everything. There's a gap between my expectations of myself and my abilities.
Even though I hope you enjoyed the little journey so far. 
 
to be continued...
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Hello Keith, thank you for the kind words.
Let's move on to the capstan.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The descent to the cabin
 

 
The galley
 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
Herzliche Grüße
Willi
 

Hello everyone
The head...
 
As mentioned elsewhere, it's difficult (for me) to create a profile on a curved strip.
 


Here, I worked with several layers.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi
 

I started working on the channels and deadeyes today.   Pretty straight forward stuff here.   The channels are laser cut in 3 layers just like the Winchelsea model.  The char was removed and the layers glued up.  The outside layers are very thin but not thin enough for the final product.  It is slightly smaller so after gluing it up, it creates a nice fancy edge.  But you dont want the top and bottom layers too thick so they were sanded down even thinner.  Almost card stock thickness.  See the photo below.  These do take a little time to complete but its worth it.  I used spray mount glue to glue the thin outside layers in position.  But I have also used a simple glue stick with success.
 

They were glued to the hull as is usually done.  The molding on the hull was carefully removed and the channels pinned into position with 24 gauge wire used as the pins.  
 

Then I did a quick test on the chainplates and deadeyes.  I had already done this on the battle station mini kit so it was just a matter of repeating the process.  
 
There are two sizes of deadeyes. These are all 3d printed for you. The first thing you need to do is insert the deadeyes into their strops. The strops are laser cut for you out of plastic. It is quite easy to slip the deadeyes into the strop. The strop will flex so you can slip it right in. No glue is needed or soldering etc.

Next you must prepare the deadeye straps. These are laser cut for you out of plastic as well. They have a pretty unique shape. But you will need to complete them before you can use them even though they are laser cut in profile.

See the photo...
 


The top of each strap has a “hook” of sorts on the end. This is hooked into the bottom of the deadeye strop after the deadeyes are inserted into the slots on the channel.
But these “hooks” are too wide as laser cut. You will need to file them thinner in width so the hook will actually fit into the little loops of the deadeye strops. They start off as 1/16” wide…you will need to file them to 1/32” wide. File them a little on each side. Give it a test and see if the fit into the strop loop as you see it in the photo above.

In addition, at the bottom of the chainplate strap a small brass nail secures it to the hull. You will need to drill a small hole thru the bottom of each strap for the little brass pins that come with the kit. Then I also rounded the bottom of the strap so it didn’t appear “square” at the very bottom edge.  I used a #70 drill bit for the hole.

This makes a big difference visually.

So how do you add the deadeyes and straps on the model? You have two sizes of deadeyes which should already be stropped. Place the loop of the strop into the slots on the channel. You will see the loop stick out along the bottom of the channel.

Use the plans to determine where the larger and smaller deadeyes go along the channel.

Once the deadeyes are in the channel slots, the straps can be hooked into the loop under the channel. The straps are somewhat flexible. If one breaks there are plenty of extras. Use the plans to determine the angle of each strap along the hull. NOTE: there are two different lengths of straps as they are angled along the hull. The longer straps are used on the deadeyes on the aft side of the channels to keep the bottom of the chainplate straps lined up.  It helps them line up better when pinned into the planking. 

Mark the locations for the brass pins on the hull using the plans as a guide. Pre-drill the holes for the brass pins. With the straps hanging from the deadeye strops, pin the bottom ends into the planking. I found it easier to cut the pins shorter because you don’t need them that long.  
 
Now to finish this off for all of the channels!!!  I will post more pics when I finish it all up.

Hello everyone
A special and unique feature of the l'Anémone is the upper end strip of the transom.
 

 
To stabilize the stern structure, it had to be manufactured and installed now.
Due to its curved shape, I couldn't use a scraper. Therefore, the strip was hand-cut using a small milling tool.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
Herzliche Grüße
Willi
 
 

A small update. Work on the ship's sides continues. 
Hard times are to come. I fear I will have to remove the upper deck to dress the lower one. Besides I want to make it a bit narrower, so destruction is threatening.


I'm not sure what to do with the lower hull. The sides of this sort of card color differently than the surface, because the paint seems to intrude the material. Perhaps I will use shellac first. This project grows like tree.
I gilded the stands, but I find them a bit too shiny in comparison with the model, which has no gilding yet (only gold paint) and I have many hesitations for using real gold on it. I really am struggling to get rid of my love for worn out ships in this project. I seem to be a bit scared of brilliantly shiny images.
But the build is a lot of fun.

Frames 2-6 installed - roughly faired - no low spots so far ! 

You can still go ahead and build them...No worries.  You now know the situation.   But no build logs here as it just encourages others to buy that stuff.   Hayling is a pirated design and so is wolf....That same company UNICORN has a habit of doing so with all of their stuff.  Wolf is just a badly converted wooden kit designed from the paper model plans.   Even though you can buy them from third party sites they are all just drop shipped from China.  Its a pretty common racket.  I am sure you can start a log on other sites if you like but as I said,  that just encourages others to buy them and some forums just do not care or they will insist that they are not ripp-offs just to make themselves feel better.  My guess is that is where you heard about these two kits to begin with.  I happen to know both legit manufactures and authors of those two who designed the originals for your ill-gotten kits.   Sad to say...other sites just dont care since it doesnt hurt them, but it does indeed hurt folks.   So best to check before you buy any new kits in the future.
 
I hope to see you start a log here in the future of a legit kit.   We have dozens and dozens of members who are in the same situation and dont care either way.   They will build it on that other forum and just not start a log here on MSW...but most of them do it purposely without any remorse or thoughts about who it actually hurts.  That is their choice.   We see it every day.
 
Our site sponsors arent very happy when we allow a pirated version of their product to be built here as a log....which makes sense.   Again the other sites just dont care either way.   But we do!!!
 
Hope you understand.  And yes you might hear from those other sites that the moment you buy one of these kits you are going to be banned and blacklisted from MSW yourself.  That is just nonsense.   We have never done that and will never do that.  The only time we have asked someone to leave is when they refused to respect our wishes not to promote that stuff and insist on being able to post it here.  So go ahead and build them and enjoy them.   And we will welcome your next build log when you start it from a kit that is not on the banned list.  Happy Modeling!!
 
Chuck

Good morning ☺️
 
 

Ciao, and thanks al all ☺️
I finished sanding the hull  

1  m, 50, shot, then 1 m, both pics with zoom = 1, all like a 24 x 36 mm at 50 mm focus :




 
 

Installation of light well and fireproof bulkhead, completion of rear deck.

Hi all another update from me - this one's going to be a bit picture heavy.  This time I'm approaching the gunwales; moulding and timber heads.
 
So I started with the easiest pieces which were the lower gunwales.  These were easy to make and I pre-drilled all of the holes for the guard rails


Next I needed to sort out a piece that I had failed to see in the drawings - goodness how long ago was that!  It was this piece coloured in red below - Its a small extension of the short frame which supports the fancy transition between the quarter deck and main deck gunwales.  Because I didn't see this another issue was that I cut the interior planking too short.

So I made a piece that could fill the gap and also go far enough inboard to be flush with the interior planking


Next was the mouldings  - these were pretty straight forward.  I scraped them to shape and to hold the tricky bits still I PVA'd them to a piece of scrap and then heated the back to release them.  They did take a bit of fitting but I got there and I took the opportunity to finally shape the timber heads.




Now this is a tricky part to make - the gunwale transition.  It is such a prominent part it needs to be as good a possible.  The gunwales are different widths and they need the transition to "S" a little too.  So what I ended up doing was to make the part much wider that I needed it.  In fact I made it 13.5mm wide.

I then roughed the "S" out but left loads on to finalise the shape once the quarterdeck gunwale was fitted.  This is one of those parts where if you force it - it will snap so I just slowly worked away at them until I got a good fit.


Lastly I made the remaining wale - It fits around the timber heads and also the guard rail stanchions so I made sure that they fitted correctly.  I think this would be difficult once they are fitted.

A few pictures of where I am now.






So next I guess I need to finish the planking between the mouldings and also make the decorative face for the first beam on the quarterdeck.
 
Thanks for all of the nice comments
 
Mark
 
 
 

Forecastle deck, not glued (I'm waiting to add the accessories before final installation) :
 

Hello,
yesterday I set the model into the now finished show case, and thereby is the building process complete. The last picture shows the model where it stands during the building process, and that should be for the first time it's place.

Once again t’s a fair time since I updated this blog - apologies. The bow was a problem, and my initial efforts were a predictable failure. I tried using card, but it just did not look right, even though, unlike  wood, there is no problem in bending it. So I have used stripwood, soaking it in hot tap water (provided the boiler is working, which was a bit of a problem until a new one arrived recently). The bent strips are then glued together to achieve a plausible thickness. As for the figurehead, I have used Milliput, as I can’t carve anything that small. The figure is no more than about an inch in height. One grandson said helpfully that it looks more like a seal than a lion, but I think it will have to do. I’ve gilded it rather than attempting polychrome - it’s not clear how the original would have been finished, but this seems best.  There’s a good deal of tidying up to be done, and photos always seem to bring out the faults, but I hope this gives some impression of progress on the this part of the model. Meanwhile I’ve also been working on the stern, which is taking ages. Incidentally, I have belatedly found an excellent video of the model in the National Maritime Museum at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAM-K193fYk. As well as the ship, it features ‘relaxing classical music’. I’m not clear who made it, but it’s not the work of the museum.

Completed the main wale edition 3 layout with the slightly more complicated double hooks.
 
In the first photo you can see the tools used. Not so obvious is the straight pin used to hold a point of the printed sheet so it could be spun a little to help make it all follow the curve of the wales.
 
I have a flexible curve from my pencil and paper drafting days, works better in this instance than my French curves to make a long gentle curved line.
I copied (traced) my original boundaries (taken off the model and onto tracing paper) onto a new fresh set of overlapping tracing sheets.
I slide the printed layout of the wales under the blank sheets and went to work with a 2H pencil.
You can see the results in the second sheet.
On the third photo is the bow layout.
 
Now I have a dilemma. Do I head downstairs to the basement and start cutting and sanding to thickness new stock, and start tracing, cutting and sanding new pieces... or do I spend the last few sunny days of post summer (fall) outside. Tough one!

Today's work on the forecastle, with preparation of future accessories :


 

The fore castle is painted.
The painting scheme on the back has been adjusted to more closely resemble the Anthony drawing.
 
Things to consider:
How to properly glue this forecastle to the hull.
There's no room for a knight to hoist the yard of the fore sail.
 
This build is now currently on hold; i'm now temporarily working on the yacht for the Amsterdam exhibition.


 

Today, the question was how ensuring the verticality of the fore-mast, has just been quickly resolved :