davyboy

chesstree, fenders and the entry steps:
 

Well, that's where we are at the moment.

I think the books have some errors...
Standard 81T0833

This arrangement is therefore not correct at all.

And is shamelessly copied in the next book.

And this is what it actually looks like in the drawing.
A channel or rigging rail a little bit lower.
The Calderkraft model also follows this arrangement. Thanks @Mr Pleasant 
 
 
And so does our Russian colleague.
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=71379  thanks @firdajan

next
horizontal planking or curved straight
Most from this period seem to go for horizontal.
The curved straight ones are starting to become a bit old-fashioned in this period, it seems to me

Thanks for following

Ian, that block looks like an ordinary block with a toggle each side. Those toggles have been found in archaeology as far back as the 11th century, though I don't know if they've been found from the Classical Roman period. They are very useful for quick attachment and release of different parts of rigging on Mediterranean lateeners - for an example of the toggle in use see my post #1217 at 
Tony, thanks for your nice comment. Much appreciated.
 
More progress on the San Marco ship.
 
Grab rings for the hatch covers:

Hatch covers in place and with grab rings (now blackened) in place. I had to wait until the masts were glued in before I could finalise the hatch covers, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to see the mast steps to guide the masts into position.


Shrouds:

Foremast starboard shrouds in place:

All foremast shrouds in place. The port shrouds are loose because the lateen sail was within the shrouds - if the leeward shrouds were kept tight they would interfere with the sail as it bellied out with the wind. 
   
Getting ready for tomorrow's Modelling Exhibition! while I'm sitting there keeping people (and their precious little darlings) from touching my models with their sticky fingers I'll probably be working on positioning the halyards and their tackle, and adding the blocks for the tacks to the yards. 
 
Steven
 

Underhills book is available on Abebooks for just over 18 quid including UK postage if you're interested.
 
Dave 

Hi there,The Aberdeen Maritime Museum have what I believe to be the Builders Model of Thermopylae,I have seen this model when I lived in Aberdeen,it's beautiful.  When the Hall Russel shipyard closed in 1992 their records were given to the Museum as I understand it. Perhaps it may be worthwhile to contact them to see if they can help you,especially with Photo's of the model.
 
Dave 

With all that done it is time to make the boom crutches. These are going to be simulated to be an extension of the fashion piece. Following the manual I first made the stem angle aligned with the fashion piece when viewed from the rear. The second angle is to align with fashion piece when viewed from the side. These are to simulate being one piece with fashion piece. Now the face needs to be looking at the mast and with this done I glued the crutch to the cap rail. Next will be filling the joint and sanding making it appear as an extension of the fashion piece. That said it took two full days and seven attempts to make one. 
Couple of photos from stern and side


Not to sand the top making the last angle toward where the boom would be at rest. Putty and paint. Oh yea I have to make another for the other side.
 
 

Scratch building is chock full of learning experiences. Hopefully you are using PVA glue which is easily debonded with isopropyl alcohol. May I suggest you prepare a test scarph joint with your tissue paper then debond it with PVA. I'm suggesting this because some papers I tried actually created a black mess during the debonding process and ruined the piece. Of course if you are planning to build a perfect, error free model this is not a concern but I buy my alcohol by the gallons. Also test the finish you propose to use to make sure it doesn't make the tissue paper bleed. Finally, I have found that using thicker tissue paper results in a weaker joint. Perforating the tissue paper prior to gluing the mating segment seems to help this. As well make sure to use treenails or brass fastening to reinforce these joints.
 
You're off to a great start!

I spent a little time this week experimenting with different ways to represent the tarred joints in the keel. I made up some test scarph joint pieces and tried out some of the alternate ways mentioned recently in Pirate Adam's log - black tissue paper, #2B pencil, #5B pencil and dark paint either mixed in the glue or just added to the edges of the joint. The #5B pencil seemed to smudge very easily and I also struggled with the paint option - perhaps I used too much but it just seemed to stain the sides of the join very easily, though I am sure it could easily be cleaned up. The #2B pencil and the black tissue paper both worked well and I felt that given the reddish hue of the myrtle, the tissue paper option seemed to present a cleaner and more defined joint, so that is what I have decided to proceed with.
 
I continued working on the lower stem piece gradually refining the shape so that it matched the plan on both the inside and the outside curve. The upper stem was them mostly shaped to size and then glued to the lower stem with a tissue paper lining to the join. The upper stem was then shaped to blend in with the curve of the lower stem. It seems like a really small achievement but I was very pleased to get these two pieces together and have them both match the shape on the plan - I can at least say now I am building the model, rather than just cutting wood into small pieces! 😀
 
Here is the joined stem  - I still need to add some copper bolts to the joint and then taper the lower section to shape once it has been attached to the keel at the boxing joint. Both the forward and aft ends of the keel taper from 12" to 10".

And here it is just sitting against the boxing joint in the keel to see if I have all the angles correct.

 

There is an inventory on wikisource.
https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Anthony_Roll
 
In three parts.
Part one, Carracks 
https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Anthony_Roll/First_roll

Backstays
I have now completed all work related adding the various backstays.
 
Here are a couple of photo's showing the current build status, they are not great photos.

The next photo shows the fore mast breast backstay.

The next two photo's show the shifting backstays and the topsail and topgallant backstays

The final photo shows the entire lower foremast with shrouds and backstays fitted.

My wife and I have booked a short holiday for next week so I'm not expecting to make too much progress before we depart.

In the meantime, i continued with the fore castle basis.
 
This time I checked in time whether any problems will arise with the schrouds.

So yes, my cardboard structure was much too wide at the top. Error corrected just in time.

The base starts at an angle of 45° following the (few) remains of the fore castle. And then with a curve upwards. As always too high or too long, shortening later is easier than lengthening.

Applying the second was a little more challenging.

Additional temporary supports were then installed. And i continued with finishing the waist. 

Gluing done on starboard side, now on to port side. Sanding is for later.

Since I'm starting the fore castle earlier than planned, I haven't looked at this properly yet.
According to what I have read briefly, it should look like it is drawn on the cover of the MR book.
2 light cannons and all the are rest swivels, or hail shot pieces 

I've seen these images before. 

This isn’t a carrack.

Carracks from mr. Breugel with high castles.

 
And a wel know image of a typical Carrack 

In the MR book there is an inventory (from the year 1514) of the cannons and their position on the decks in several ships. 
All the large ships (4 of them) have at least 2 decks in the fore castle 

Hello,
my finger is so far useable again and so I finished today the bulwark.



 

Hello,
today only a short sign of life. The carpenters finished the bulwark and the painter painted it. But the windows have to wait a while, because of my damaged index finger. It't not soo serious, but without a complete fingernail I could't grab these small parts. 

Thank you Andy and John.
 
I spent a few hours today completing the rudder (excluding finishes).
 
The shaft is 0.16" diameter while the plate is .04" thick. I therefore needed to machine slots in the the cladding 0.08" radius by  0.06" deep. See blue arrows on next photo. I also cut the plate along the line of the shaft removing a .016" wide strip.
 

The brass pieces were then assembled on the cladding and glued in place using CA glue.


The other side of the gladding was then glued in place forming a brass sandwich.


The rudder is fitted with anodes. All the anodes on Cangarda are of the same flat plate type.  I drilled the holes for later anode attachment.

To get the taper sanding of the cladding symmetrical I employed a flat sheet of aluminium oxide paper and a bulldog clip.

The bulldog clip is holding the front of the rudder clear of the sandpaper and at a constant angle while the taper is sanded. The bulldog clip spring is hard enough to resist the abrasion of the oxide paper. The taper on the front edge of the rudder was formed in a similar manner.



My plan is to get on to the planking next. I expect it to be a long job so if you want to skip it I suggest you rejoin in about 2 months.
 

Thank you for saying...
 
I am trying to set aside time regularly to make a little progress.
 
Continuing with the center line fittings below deck, the WELL was next up.   This is a relatively simple structure.  The four sides are laser cut and etched.  You need to do just a few things before you glue up the four sides.  
 
First...make sure the fore and aft sides sit nicely on the keel.  Once you adjust them as needed,  you can cut the four upright columns to length.   How do you determine the length of these.  The two aft columns are shorter.  These are simply cut to fit under the next deck beam.  No  big deal.   The two columns on the fore side of the well are different and taller.   These two columns are cut so the tops are flush with the TOP of the gun deck beams or carlings.
You will have an opportunity to sand these shorter so dont over sand them initially.

Assembling the well is straight forward after you glue the columns to the port starboard sides of the well ahead of time as shown above.   You can also use some scrap tiny strips of wood to make the toggle handles for the access door.  Then just glue them on.   They are clearly shown on the plans.
 

With the four sides glued up and square...test it on your model.   After any minor tweaks you can glue it position permanently.
 

 
Then the next few gun deck beams, carlings and ledges were taken care of.   Eventually you will get to the beams where the capstan step needs to be built along the center line.  So you will need to stop and assemble the capstan step.   I glued those appropriate deck beams in position so I had a reference point to test fit the step periodically.  The step is also laser cut for you and has a recessed circle in the center.   This will accept the heel of the capstan drum...eventually.
 
The step is bolted to two columns that are set on top of  keel.   These two columns are 1/8" x 1/8" strips just like the other support columns under the beams.   Hopefully you havent forgotten to add any up until now.   They are all shown on the plans.  
 
You must cut the two columns to fit under their respective gun deck beams.   Now you have to determine where along those beams the capstan step will be placed.   You can use the plans of course but it is doubtful it will match your model perfectly.  Mine didnt.   So just understand that the capstan step is slightly higher the lower aft platform and it is level.   Because you know this you can mark the columns for the height of the capstan step with the columns "snug" fit temporarily in position.
 
When I was comfortable that I had the proper height worked out, I was ready to glue it in position.  But first I had to add the simulated bolts on the capstan step.   I used 25 lb black fishing line to simulate these.  And yes the photo shows the step upside down so you can see the hole for the drum.   But rest assured it will be glued in position right-side up!!
 

The capstan step in position...and the carlings added afterwards.
 

And some other views...of the gun deck up to this point with the ledges completed.
 

 


Almost to the other side of the gun deck.  But next up are all of the cabins on the aft lower platform.   Onward and upward as they say!!
 
 
 

Loading...

Post One Hundred and Seventy
 
Completing the Cutter.
 
Apart from painting the bottom Ivory, and the wale Black/grey, the boat will be finished using w-o-p only.
 
The rudder is a plain laser cut affair intended I think to simply display in the sternsheets of the boat. There are no fixings to hang the rudder either on the stern post, transom, or rudder.
 
I chose to add these fittings including a tiller of the yoke type.

4287
Still requires a little further fining down, this is the third attempt which may still break.

4289
Trial fitting the rudder.; a few tweaks required.
 
One consequence of changing the rowing arrangement from double to single banking is that the provided oars are too short for purpose.

4290
They are fairly easily modified but it does require using two oars to produce one. 
To improve the look of the oars the blades should really be thinned towards the tip.

4295

4298

4299

4311
Set -up for single banked rowing.

4302

4306

4307
I quite like the look of her on the skids and the Pinnace and Cutter don’t obscure much of the Main deck.
 
B.E.
16/04/2024

Thank you Richard and Pat.
 
Gary - She says it is her greatest pleasure to be my forever financial burden. She also says my efforts are earning points which will influence her when choosing the quality of retirement home she will be putting me into when I can no longer look after myself. 
 
And so on to the rudder.
 
I started with a brass sheet .040" thick.
 

I drilled a number of holes at the centre of the various edge curves. I also turned up some filing buttons - blue arrows.

I cut away the waste brass and using the buttons I filed the edge curves. 


The rudder is profiled / streamlined although the front and rear edges are blunt.

The outer rudder shaft was made from brass tube with bearing ferrules at the upper and lower ends. The ferrules are drilled .040" diameter to take the fixed inner bearing shaft.

The small upper section shaft was made in a similar way. Below all 3 parts are assembled.


I will form the outer shape of the rudder by attaching mahogany to each side and then sanding to shape. Below the mahogany "cladding" has been cut and glued prior to attaching to the rudder shaft.

That's all for now.

Things are moving forward with the deck furniture.
The larger skylight is done.
 

 
Tim

Hello everyone.
Last year I successfully completed the construction of the Le Gros Ventre model according to Gerard Delacroix's monograph and I chose L'Amarante as the next model (also according to GD's monograph). I started the construction of the POF at the end of last year and will gradually publish photos from the construction process here.
First, I made a jig for installing the individual frames on the keel and started assembling the keel.
     

I’ve faired most of the hull except for below the wales, the reason is that I want to plank the upper sides and make sure they are stable and epoxied before I turn the model on its side to fair the lower sides, so I’ve faired below the wales a decent amount. The bow and the counters are faired as well.
 
The upper planking where all the moldings and friezes go is laser cut basswood, it has etched reference marks for the QG’s, moldings, fenders and chesstrees. The one you see on the model now is only a test piece and  not the final design. 
 
The lower counter will be a laser cut piece of basswood that will also double as a fairing guide for the counter structure, you can see I used a paper template, I had to make about 6 of them before it finally fit right. So the wood one is coming soon. 


Now for the resin printed QG’s, this was an ambitious project but I thought why not give it a shot and so far I’m quite happy with how they fit. I wanted to attempt this because as I was designing laser files for a two deck QG out of wood, I just felt there were too many ways for it to go wrong if one isn’t careful and spoil the model, thankfully this is going to work and save a lot of trouble.

Now once you fit the QG’s and everything lines up then they need to come off and be finished. You will have to paint them, add the roof tiles, friezes, scraped moldings, windows and a few other decorations and when complete they should be indistinguishable from built up wooden ones. I’ll go into more detail later about how to install them but they will require a little finesse, but not much. 



I have some boxwood on order and will start producing the laser files and testing  for the windows. Also I’m going to begin adding the upper and lower wales, this will be important to get the planking right.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
JJ

10,
 
Pictures of the early Pinas.








 

All ship models together so far. All on a scale of 1 : 87.
Top from left to right; Chebec, Venetian Pinque, Ghanjah (Oman)
Under; Tartane, Swelhals,  Cog, Pinas, Galeotta.
Not in the picture; Egyptian (Pharao time) merchant ship, English Canalboat, Stadsaeck (Zutphen 1684)
See also;  www.constantwillems.nl
 
Constant
 

Definitely worth a try Phil, but need to be careful to avoid------------->