davyboy

Almost back to where I was before I tore out the orlop and gun deck.
 
Gun deck beams cut, edges softened (sanded), tacked in place, marked for carlings.
Centre alignment double checked with some square stock set in the three mast steps. This was eye balled from the transom to the bow. Looks acceptable.
I also double checked the deck height with a 32 Pdr and my 4" thick deck planks will need to be slightly thicker... which is better than thinner I suppose.
 
The height between decks looks good with 3D figures. I plan to have at least this fiddler (me) on the orlop with his seaman's chest.

I also have my wales traced onto the black walnut ready to be cut out. I numbered the pieces so hopefully I don't get mixed up.

The upper windows are finished, the lower ones are at first step (ending will be done tomorrow) :

Thankyou so much for your generous comments, and also to those who have shown interest and ‘liked’ my  stuff.
 It is very satisfying to know that my ramblings and musings have been of some help to my fellow modellers.
 
Only one question remains….

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Where am I going to put this fine addition to my Vanguard collection.

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For the present she will remain in my office beneath her protective cover.
 
Thank you Chris for providing the makings.
 
B.E.
22/08/2025

I continue with the blocks:
 








 
 

I still cant get these hawse timbers right after multiple attempts and working on the same assembly for two months.  I made sure to get frame one aligned properly and after installing the hawse timbers (which I can never get to mirror eachother perfectly) it thru off the first frame.  And after fairing the interior of the frame my electric file slipped.  I probably have no other choice but starting again for the umpteenth time on this frame and hawse timbers. Maybe some of it can be salvaged.  So frustrating. 

I can renew the ancient windows of the Saint Philippe also scaled 1/72, and ready for use, with exactly the same size :  

Shiver Me Timbers
Todays task was to build a swashbuckling pirate ship ready for a battle on the seas. The kit came with 29 pieces and is suitable for 3+ although the kit did say "Adult Assembly Required".
 
As with most of the kits I build I did have to strip it down and start again as I did miss adding a vital part. I did have have a willing helper and after 40 minutes of hard work the kit was completed.

Post 107
Completion photos part 2
Close-up shots.

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B.E.
20/08/2025
 
 

Post 106
Completion
After eight months of fairly concentrated work this project is now complete.
This has been an interesting kit to make and one that has taken more time than I had initially imagined.
I had a lot of questions in my mind about certain details and fittings etc; for which there is scant information, and which remain unanswered.
Even so, Chris has done an excellent job of creating ‘Harpy’ which makes up into a very attractive model with lots of deck interest.
A fine addition to the Vanguard range of kits.
 
The completion Photos (part 1)
These are the full hull shots that will feature in my usual build Photo book.

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The display stand has been completed, I do like keel blocks as part of the support, a design that has featured in several of my models.

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Part  2 will cover the close-up shots.
 
 
B.E.
20/08/2025
 
 

A quick draft of a cross, the final version will receive a much more careful treatment :

2nd quarter-gallery done :


 

Sadly not Ron.
A bit of a time traveller is Bob, think Outlander.

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He began his journey as an able seaman serving on a Flower Class Corvette  circa 1940.

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He was next sighted working as a rigger on a 14 gun sloop of war circa 1776. This was around 2013 in our time.

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In 2020 he was to be found serving on the Cutter Alert circa 1777.
 
Bob’s current muster on Harpy is likely to be his last, but you never know with time travellers.🤔
 
B.E.

Post 105
Rattlin’ down.
There are different approaches to this repetitive task;

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I only use a card template to work out the number of lines.
For me a card behind the shrouds is more of a hindrance than help.
I prefer to fit them by eye using a 5mm planking strip to gauge the spacing.
 
For the Ratlines I am using Syren 0.20mm line which is pretty spot on for scale size. It is dyed before use, an approach I recommend; the suggestion that it be dyed after fitting is a high- risk undertaking.
 
The kit arrangement shows ratlines across all shrouds for the full length.
Steel however indicates that for the first six lines top and bottom, ratlines are omitted to the first and last shrouds.
Whether this was applicable to all vessel sizes is not clear, but on Harpy I don’t think that would be a good look, particularly on the Fore shrouds.
I will extend the Ratlines across all shrouds.
The Top ratline is 5mm below the futtocks and the bottom starts just above the shroud cappings.
 
I have also belatedly noticed that Steel indicates that on brigs the aftermost Main shroud was served to give protection from the main boom.
 
It has been over five years since I last did this task and it feels more tiresome than I remember, an indication no doubt of increasing decrepitude, and decreasing vision sharpness.

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I begin the procedure by attaching lines with a (5) line spacing. This helps keep the shrouds in shape.

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My Topman Bob has served on many ships, and is a valued crew member for gauging the rattlin’

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One of Chris’s figures is a reasonable fit for a Helmsman.
Pinned to the deck, he provides a human scale reference for the model.
I have positioned the Binnacle just forward and to Port of the wheel, the suggested kit position makes no sense.

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There is a lot of deck interest provided for this model thanks to the excellent fittings provided in the kit.

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The build is nearing completion, only a little tidying up, and tweaking here and there remains to be done.
 
B.E.
18/08/2025
 

Transoms being faired in.
 

 

My thoughts also,the Helmsman must have had bruised ribs fairly often. I imagine relieving tackles would have been fitted though nothing on the original model shows this.
 
Dave 

I have a kind of addiction, and it is buying these plans, at times for no other reason than to stare and admire the lines of them for hours on end. I find them fascinating. 

This is one of my latest, it is a particularly beautiful 48th scale plan of the San Josef of 112 guns (reputed to once belong to Emma Hamilton) – and damn do those headrails look nice and simple to transfer into a kit version!
 
In the same tube, I also had an even bigger plan of Caledonia (120 – but rounded upper bow, so probably never do that one), and 2 for the old Roebuck Class 44 gun 2-deckers. Not sure if I shall ever use them, but I would like display all of them one day, if I can ever sell my house and move to somewhere that has the room in my workshop…
 

It is hard to imagine the amount of force you would have to apply to a tiller on this type of ship, to steer it in one direction or another. The Chebec I am building is also using a massive rudder and a long tiller. 
 
Yves

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

Thank you all for the welcome.
I take this opportunity to update the work diary.
After several attempts, I finally managed to assemble the central lantern of the Stern.
It was created empty so that the windows could reflect and let light through, thus giving a slightly more realistic effect.It wasn't easy, but the result satisfies me.
 
In addition to this, I also added the two small trumpeters on the side of the Stern.
 
Now I have to create the connecting epaulet with the winged woman and the last side friezes.
 
Good evening to all.

I spent a bit of time yesterday belying the rigging that had been run in, some of which can be seen in the first three first photos below.

With the jibboom and flying jibboom added their respective shroud rigging were next to be added. I opted to use hooks to secure these blocks to the bow for ease of installation, as can be seen in the two photo below, noting the plan sheet shows these blocks should be seized directly to the eyebolts. The free ends of the inter-block rigging will be belayed to pins located on the bow inner bulwark belay pin racks.

The shrouds are also feed through eyelets located on the spritsail yard before being secured to the ends of the jibboom and flying jibboom.
 
 

After a short break, I made progress.
I finished all the perpendicular frames on the starboard side.
Now I'm preparing for the aft frames.

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

There's no easy way to make the gun-carriages at this scale except piece by piece. 
this shows the concave cutouts for the sides. Each pair of sides are held together by double sided tape during these steps and drilling.
Drilling for the axles. I do not have the skills to mill the axles so I chose a less accurate method.
 

a jig for aligning the front and back crossmembers during gluing.

the carriage assembled and pinned 

Now for the cannon.
 
Cheers
Dick 
 

2nd quarter-gallery beginning :

What I am gonna shoot for with color scheme and rig.  Furled sails.  Only not 3” long.  
 
Getting close to rigging so I must create my vision board of inspiration.