davyboy

Beautiful. Valeriy, I don't know what you get for your work but I have a feeling it's not enough. 

And some more detailed photography...

So, my process has come to an end. The flag is raised on the ship, the project is finished!   

Just a quick update today. I have been continuing work on the aft cant frames, albeit somewhat slowly. I followed the same process as before to make aft cant frames 3 and 4. These were then glued to the keel and small spacer blocks fitted between them and aft cant frame 3 to keep everything secure and supported. I'm endeavouring to keep everything as equal and consistent and symmetrical as possible so hopefully that is working.


I have also cut out the pieces required for the remaining three aft cant frames - 5, 6 and 7. Once these have been made and installed I plan to do some limited fairing whilst access to the inside of the frames is still fairly easy.

Post 28
The Square Tuck
I had played around with framing the Square Tuck earlier in the build.

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Neat as it is I was trying to avoid the exposed end grain planking of the kit arrangement and add a sort of faux framing to better represent a more authentic look.
 
This is what I have come up with.

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I had made the ‘frames’ earlier.

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The original laser cut boarding below the framing.

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The boarding fitted between the frames consist of eight boards of decreasing length which would prove tricky to fit individually.
I opted to board over a template card pattern off-model and fit as a single unit.
 Still involved a careful trim and dry fit by degrees.

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The boarding is then sanded flush with the frames.

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B.E.
01/02/2025
 

Thank you Mark, Bug, Cisco, and John for your appreciation.
@ - Cisco, I am an admirer of your AVS build, and those three months were well spent, and it shows. Your planking is simply beautiful, makes mine look very average.
 
Post 27
Final sanding was done using various grade papers, primarily 320 al.oxide. It didn’t take long to achieve a smooth and even surface.

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I think she has scrubbed up quite well.
 
I now return to the Square tuck.
 
B.E.
31/01/2025

Shown here are the elm tree pumps for pumping out the bilgewater. This vessel would not have had chain pumps. Water for washing down decks was obtained with buckets over the side.
 

Cheers
Dick

The final stage of construction of the model is the installation of lifebuoys and letters of the ship's name.

Ten days ago I started this model with little more than an original design drawing and some pictures of other models. The hull (overall length 33 cm) is ready for painting now. As you can see most of the untidy 'loose ends' have been cured and I made some progress in planning what the model will look once it is finished. I never make models of actual ships, I just show the type and that seems to be a lucky decision here, because of all the models I saw I can only say that none of them is similar to the others. That gives a lot of freedom, which is exactly how I like it. The stern I (temporarily) added is just a first stage one. I will find out how to make it acceptable. The lining of the hull planks look better in reality than in the grazing light available when I made the pictures.
Choices have been made. I chose for a front bulkhead instead of hull planking up to the stem post. The bowsprit will not rest on top of the stem post, but beside it. The panels for the inside of the bulwarks have already been painted red and will be glued in as soon as the decks are painted. I will have to make a stand now, so I can draw the waterline, after which the usual painting of the outside will be done. A lot of time will pass while the paint is drying, which gives me the opportunity to make all sorts of details for both the inside and the outside of the model.
I'll keep you posted.
 

Thanks Guys for the  interest and likes.
@ Glenn -  yes I use edge bending,  but when it becomes excessive it creates the less than appealing  exaggerated sny effect,.
 
Post 26
Completing the Pear planking.

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Each station has been re-marked on the hull, hopefully for the last time, but I don’t discount that a little tweaking may still be required.
I begin with the strake above the keel.

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This strake runs from 2mm at the bow, 4mm at Midships,  increasing to 5mm at the sternpost.
 
I am now working alternatively from keel up and wale down.

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It is easier to deal with the aftermost section of a strake as a separate plank.

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Three strakes to go.
It can be seen in this shot that the space at the stern is gradually equalising strake upon strake as I close the gap.

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Two strakes to go.

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One strake to go…

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I did not find it necessary to use stealers at the stern, as I have a selection of planking strips of various widths.
In the absence of these, the kit Pear sheets that contain the laser cut parts, provide a good source of plank making material suitable for spiling wider sections at the stern.
The final strake which sits below the round of the hull lacks  uniformity which is why it is placed where it is. 
Of necessity the planks are spiled, an exercise I quite enjoy; getting them to fit neatly into the given space I find quite relaxing.
The strakes are again divided into three planks per strake which makes things easier.

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All done!
Overall, I’m fairly happy with the planking even in its unsanded state.
Moving on to cleaning up.
 
B.E.
30/01/2025
 
 

I think the picture is doing the rounds just now. A friend found it on Facebook and asked me for comments. I was pleased to say that it's a load of balls and can be disqualified for a large number of reasons 
 
George 

Addition: Guide of the bowlines for the main topgallant sail - and the main royal sail
Today I received a few photos of the fore crosstree from the original model of La Créole for the guide of the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail.
Thankfully, a nice restorer from the Paris Marine Museum went to the depot and took the relevant photos at my request.
Here is one of these photos with a direct view of the rear area of the cross tree.
As expected, you can see a wooden attachment for guiding the bowlines. You cannot see discs for deflection here, presumably the ropes are simply led through a hole.
I think that discs were used in the original here, and that the model is probably a simplification by the model maker at the time.

Whether wrong or right, in any case I am making an assumption and will try to implement this detail with discs.

The photo below is my setup for soft soldering two breech rings at a time.
 
The soldering station was purchased from https://gesswein.ca/products/grs-soldering-station
They were considerably less expensive when I got mine!
 
It is meant for silver soldering, but I normally use it when using my butane torch and copper-phosphorus wire solder. This solder allows me to blacken the copper wire and solder joint with LOS (Liver of Sulphur).
 
The 60/40 soft solder I used on the thin gauge copper wire here (0.5 mm = 0.02" dia) will not blacken with LOS so I used a black permanent marker as I've seen done by other modellers in our local club.
 

So ends another day but not a lot done. Made some hatch rope. Adding ropes to gun port covers and then install.

Not a great start to the day. When I went into the shipyard to add the first plank to the other side I noticed a problem with the alignment right-hand bulwark (left side when looking at the photo below) pattern.
 
Although the pattern laser etched guide lines are perfectly aligned to the deck for the most part, it can be seen the bow section must have slipped during the clamping process, which I had not noticed. I think, after clamping the bow section, I was so focused on aligning the pattern using the laser etched guide lines, I did not recheck the bow section after all the clamps and pins had been added.

When looking at the next photo it can be seen that the problem starts somewhere between the last two bulkheads.

My initial reaction was leave it has fitted and trust that it would not be that noticeable as the build progresses. Then the newer version of my said
 
"Stop! this is shoddy workmanship and is simply not acceptable".
 
With a little bit of fear and trepidation I brushed plenty of warm water to the wood glue area. After a few minutes I started to ease the pattern away from the bow and two leading bulkheads. Thankfully I was able to do this without causing any significant damage.
 
It was then a case of repositioning the pattern around the bow section. It took a few attempts before I was happy with the alignment. With clamps holding the pattern in place I left the shipyard. 

A couple of hours later I returned to the shipyard to remove the clamps and thankfully the bow pattern looks so much better, as can be seen by looking at the out of focus picture below. It is not 100% perfect but I have deemed it acceptable.

The pattern laser etched lines are now aligned with the deck.

 

Thanks for the encouragement one and all.
 
A small note on the jibs: for those planning to add sails and fixing the staysails to the stays with rope hanks, be careful when you lock the knots with a dab of glue. If you don't move the sails up and down the stays occasionally as the glue dries, the glue will also glue the hanks to the stays.  I can say this because of my vast intellect and my encyclopedic knowledge of model making (or was it because it didn't occur to me the first time and I suffered the consequences?). 🙂
 
John

In the stowed position, this griping spar was either secured to the deck or to davits, as shown earlier.

Completed the painting of all 28 x 32 Pdr carriages and the assembly of one.
 
Carriage painting was done with brushes. Three coats of yellow ochre and then spots with black.
Could have used younger, steadier hands for the fine black touch ups... but it look fine from 12" away. The camera hides nothing!
The cannon was spray painted with acrylic flat black some time ago, multiple coats.
I tried highlighting the reinforcing rings and royal cypher with a smokey grey but it made a mess as it is all so tiny.
 
The cap square is card stock blackened with a permanent marker. The one end is curled over itself.
The cap square chain is simply black sewing thread. I tried a finger knitted chain stitch,  which look quite good until set up to the carriage and it was about 3X too large for the scale.
 
The eye bolts and breech ring are made with 0.02" (5mm) copper wire, the proper scale.
The breech rope ID (0.1") is correct but the eye loop (0.06") is larger than it should be as this was the size I was comfortable with.
Eye bolts were twisted over a 14 AWG copper wire (0.06" dia) ... I do not have a 1/16" drill bit to use for this.
The breech ring was coiled over a 7/64th drill bit, multiple wraps and then cut with hobby snips to produce multiple coils at once.
They were soft soldered 60/40 (% tin/lead) solder.
The eye loops and rings were blackened with a permanent marker.
 
I used Weldbond, water based PVA glue to assemble all the parts. It dries crystal clear.
 
The quoin handle was made from a small diameter maple dowel, sanded down while mounted on the drill press and then pulled through a draw plate.
All holes in the carriage were pilot holes and needed to be opened up for the twisted wire eye bolt stubs and quoin handle.
 
Presently, I have all the breech rope rings (54 ea) made and soldered. Going to start on the (189 ea) eye bolts next.
 

Hallo Modellbaufreunde.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

yes a full weekend on my build !!!!!

Good morning,
many thanks for the likes and nice comments.
 
Håkan, that is only one scraper, and he is a little too wide. Half an millimeter would be better, but this is the smallest one I could build. But it dominate the planking a lot as I saw at the last pictures. In nature it's not so much. Christensen measured these profiles, and it were 1600 m at all. Lukily they used at the Gokstad ship only one form. These were at least a little more complicated then the one I build. At the Oseberg ship they used 7 different molds!
 
At the picture you see also my test planking, now oiled. I don't know if I shoulld stain the oil a little.

Hello,
and thank you for all the likes and comments.
And before my green kale gets ready, a small update. Yesterday I finished the 5th strake. This morning I took the ship from the plug, to eliminate the glue remains from the inside. It was't so bad as I first exspected.

Hello,
the fourth strake is ready. That is at least more work then I had expected. To show you the dimentions, a picture with a ruler.

Hello,
today I finished the 3. plank. The two parts up the stems are the most complicated parts. That part in the middle is ,at the moment, not so complicated. But this time I tried to bend the plankt before, and it's working. I just wetted the plank a little, fixed it, and then grilled it with my heating pistol. 😉

But also this part I glued on in two parts.


And these are the new planks, only 13 left per side. So, if you hear the next time not so much from me, I'm bussy planking.

Just a small update. There's obviously still a lot of other work to do on the model, but I've started with the sails. Flying jib rigged and outer jib part furled and ready to rig.
 
John