davyboy

Where does time go?
I keep getting diverted - Family, friends, house and garden all need attention the garden has woken up and keeps needing care.
 
Then in the post I got the cutter from Vanguard Models ( thanks Chris ) @chris watton that I ordered to go on the deck of 'Speedy' if you remember the painting of cutter 'Kite' that I posted had a pair of boats, I will just have this one on 'Speedy'
 
This is very much WIP, any comments welcome.

 
Practicing my painting technique. Not sure if colour would sit well with the rest of the model.
 

 
I have lightened the pearwood parts with a pale wash.
 
The Lieutenant is waiting to be coloured in next, so I will need a lot of practice.
 
Tim
 
 

On a project of this nature, there will be more scrap. One needs a decent sized box. The good news is that much can be re-purposed along the way. Also, you will find the failure rate will go down as you get more experience under your belt. Been there, so I know!
 
Boxing joint looks good now.

This is what I am going for in the end.
 
 

I've managed to cut the scarphs for the keel as well as the section with the boxing joint.  It only took me 3 tries to make the section with the boxing joint without messing something up   Plenty of good size pieces for the scrap box.  

Hello, pictures March 2013:
 
 

Finished making up all the deck beams and now I am beginning to work on making the officers quarters, 

Actual step of built, standing rigging finished and walnut colored and adjusted 


 

Thank you very much friends, I am trying my best..😁
 
Finally the main lower parts of the masts..🔥
 


Temporary direction signs created for exact machining directions..
 

The tops are machined and holes drilled for the location of the lower tie-down points..
 


Finished lower parts of the masts..
 


(Manual dividing device)

Done..💥


Now tops and topmasts..🔥

Another short update. The center planks completed from bow to first hatch.
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Now its on the lining off the deck for final planking. Prior to lining the deck I needed to protect the finish planking. I've used foam rubber on another model with copper plating with great results. No damage. I'll use the same method this time. Bought a remnant of 5" foam at JoAnns. Cutting a slot the length of the hull and then cutting along the sides creating a valley where the ship sits. I also find that this is very helpful when rigging on the top of a lazy susan. 

Now on to lining off the deck for planking.

Continuation: Equipment of the fore topgallant yard – Vergue de petit perroquet
As announced a long time ago, I started to equip the fore topgallant yard. In principle it is the same rigging elements and accessories as the main topgallant yard, just with reduced dimensions.
In this respect, I don't want to repeat myself and let the pictures speak for themselves.



The double blocks for the royal sheets and the single cluelines are also a little smaller.
Here is a direct comparison of a quarter block for the main top gallant yard with those of the fore top gallant yard. Unfortunately, at this size you can already see some irregularities.

In the next photo I show, among other things: an already made strop for a double block with my scale man, which I've been neglecting a bit lately. Actually a loyal companion at the model building yard for more than 10 years now.


And here's another picture of the stirrups. On the one hand you can see the unraveled rope and on the other hand the finished braided plating.

 The sheets are connected to the cluelines in the usual way when no sails were attached.

 Finally, here is a picture of the entire fore topgallant yard, but still without lifts.
 
Sequel follows …

You’ll notice that I don’t try to sanitize my work, however humbling that of so many on this forum is to me. The dirt, dust and imperfections, however, are the real thing. The important message I try to convey in sharing my stuff is that there are no short cuts, that the time and effort, as well as the imperfections, are there, in plain view. While I follow many of your builds and am inspired beyond words by your images, which render me speechless, I will continue to share my progress and learn from your example. Thank you.
Henry

Progress on the head construction. 

Its not magic. Only a simple construction with profiles.

Hello,
 
Welcome to my build log of the Hayling Hoy. David Antscherl's excellent book on this build says that it is suitable for a first time builder attempting a fully framed model. Well, I am certainly a first time scratch builder and this will be my first fully framed model so I hope he is correct! I decided to attempt this build as I wanted to stretch my skills and techniques and also because I knew it would be a very long project. I really don't have that much spare space to display finished models and so the longer I can keep one on the building board the better! I was impressed and encouraged by previous first time scratch builders who have also attempted this build, notably @Stuntflyer and @Seventynet and I hope I can come up with something that even approaches their excellent work.

I have no background or experience in woodworking and whilst I do own a few of the machines that may help with this build, eg table saw, thicknesser, mill etc I haven't had a great deal of experience using them to date and so this will be a learning experience for me on those tools as well as in regard to the techniques of scratch building a fully framed model. There will be plenty of mistakes and do overs on the way but I'm not worried about that as it will all be a part of the project. I will of course welcome any advice and ideas from people who feel that they would like to contribute. I know I have a lot to learn and I am looking forward to it. Progress is going to be slow as I don't get that much time each week to devote to modelling but hopefully I will keep going forwards! 
 
Being based in Australia I really don't have access to the lovely types of wood I often read about on this forum but there are of course native options. I have decided to use some myrtle that seems to be in readily available supply. So far I have only purchased a couple of small pieces just to get started with. The myrtle seems very like pear wood (to my untutored eye at least) and hopefully will make a lovely coloured model with fine graining.

I have spent that last few weeks getting ready to start this project and that included getting the plans copied and making my building board. I used some mdf for the base of the board and added some pine battens underneath. I have seen a couple of builds that use t track as part of the building board and so I decided to copy that idea and I also made some wooden squares to use with the t track. I added a couple of coats of white paint to the board and then glued down the plan using some spray adhesive. It seemed like a good idea to add a coat of artists' varnish over the plan but clearly that was a mistake as it only succeeded in introducing lots of wrinkles - so that wasn't a good start. Either I hadn't glued the plan down sufficiently or the spray varnish just didn't like that particular paper. So off with that plan and on with another copy, this time glued down with lots of Bostick blu stick - and it seems to be sticking well so far. I didn't bother with the varnish this time around. I also extended the lines of the frames out onto the board which should hopefully make things easier to line up and keep square etc down the track.

Today I actually made a start on the build itself and began with cutting out the pieces for the keel. The keel is made of three separate pieces joined with scarps joints. The rear two pieces are simply 12" square lengths and I deliberately made them over long as I wanted to make sure I had plenty of excess to work with in case I made a mess when cutting the scarph joint. The scarph joints were cut on the table saw and then the faces of the cuts tidied up with a small chisel. 

Strangely, the keel sections look far from square in that photo above but it must just be the perspective - they are square honestly!
 
Next job is to tackle the forward section of the keel with the boxing joint.
 

I want to do some preliminary sanding so everything looks a bit better.  So, I glued several ‘bulkheads’ to form one of the center frames.  First, I cut out the location of where the stairs leading below deck and painted it black.  I also planked the floor since it will be seen if you look down the stairway.
Then I inserted blocks of wood between each bulkhead to strengthen the structure and started sanding.  I had to add some shims in places and remove a lot of wood in other places.  The result is not bad; nowhere near what will be the final fairing, but not bad.  Still looks ugly.
 

 

All the standing rigging being finished, I give myself a small shipyard break which I think I've well deserved :

Post One Hundred and Sixty-two.
 
Woolding the masts
The kit indicates use of 0.5mmø line throughout.
According to Steel the wooldings for the Fore and Mainmasts are of 3” circ line, and that for the Mizen 2½” circ. 
This equates to 0.37mm and 0.31mm scale diameters.
 
I used 0.3mm and 0.4mm cotton line from Modellbau Takelgarn in Germany.
 
Wooldings are generally 12” deep which scales to 4.76mm.
The method of applying as shown on the kit plans is the recognised approach to take, and will be familiar to readers of R.C. Anderson’s wordy but excellent book The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600-1720
 
I wouldn’t be without it.

4132

4133
The line was dyed using Colron Jacobean Dark Oak wood dye which gives a less black effect than commercial black rigging line.
 
The final touch is adding the wooden hoops that contain the woolding.

4140
These are simply made using very thin strips cut from a Manilla folder.

4137

4138

4148
Nearly there! and with great timing the  the display case arrived yesterday.
 
B.E.
 
28/03/2024.
 

Topgallant Yard Lift Blocks
I spend the last couple of days adding the all the shroud cleats.
 
When looking at the plan sheets with regards to the topgallant shrouds I noted that I need to add blocks for the topgallant yard lifts as these are sited between the first and second topsail shrouds. It makes sense to me to fit these before the topgallant shrouds are added.
 
In the first photo below I have shown the arrangement I am using for these blocks. The large loop can be passed over the top of the topsail mast. The block is used for the topgallant lift and the bottom end is then belayed to one of the topsail shroud cleats.

The next photo shows the arrangement is place.

 
 

Welcome...
 
I was very excited when i was able to get chapters 1 & 2 for this new project.
 
I already have my first question.
 
When test fitting parts of the stem assembly the instructions suggest only sanding slightly on certain edges of each piece. 
 

However when I removed the pieces with no sanding, there is a slight gap.  Is it appropriate to correct the other end?
 
 
 
 

I tend to believe the term "boxwood" is very generic and used for many woods that are not even close to the stuff we want.  I remember seeing a wooden box for soda bottles and being told it was boxwood because that's the wood for boxes.  It was a plywood box for crying out loud.  

i have learnt loads, just don't remember any of it

Just wait a couple of hundred years and all your boxwood will look that good…😁

I have some old pieces of limbs from English boxwood that are great for carving but it is not nearly as yellow as in your photo.  Those piece are REALLY yellow.  If you cut a small piece, is it the same color all the way through?   Almost looks dyed😀 

I compared the column protection of the FSK bridge in Baltimore (top) with our local Astoria-Megler Bridge (NW Oregon, Columbia River) on Google Earth.   I think the images speak for themselves. 


 
 

I quote a retired civil engineer (I hope she won't mind) who designed bridges world wide:
 
I saw the newsreel of the bridge collapse in Baltimore yesterday. I had always felt that these American 'girder bridges' were too lightweight (part of America's planned obsolesce design practice in place in those years). But I was astonished to see how little protection was provided to the main supports. It's a no brainer - if you knock out a main support, the bridge collapses! And the main supports next to the navigation channel require special attention. On the Queensferry Bridge, which was downstream of the Forsyth Naval Dockyard where they build and maintain aircraft carriers, we carried out a study, including model simulation, of just such an event and designed the main pier caissons not to fail. Luckily, the Americans loved simple span construction for their approach viaducts and this acted as a fuse . . . [for] progressive collapse of the whole crossing! . . . .  what happened using 'the past is a foreign country' adage. It was opened in 1977! I was working on the Itchen Bridge then in a similar, but not as exposed, location upriver from the port of Southampton. Our River piers were protected by a massive caisson that extended out from the main columns by sufficient distance to guard against the superstructure hitting the bridge even as the hull of the vessel crumpled onto the caissons.
 
So, there you have it.