davyboy

Hi all. After some time of absence, I'm back with the construction of the turrets.

 
I started with the big ones (12") on prow and stern, making the shells of them from proper shaped plastic.
I was counting on some spare gun barrels that I thought it would be suitable to finish them but I was wrong...
I soon realized that I had to make or buy new gun barrels. 

 
I didn't want to waste more time, so I put them aside and start making the side turrets (8"). I had to make all four of them.
Again, I made the shells with plastic and finished them, by placing those gun barrels I had in my spare box.
After some modification by a lathe, I think the final result is quite good.
Thanks

..........

These photos show the wales being installed.

Thanks again all y'all for your likes 
 
After my colonoscopy procedure this morning, which showed potential problems, I ventured back into the shipyard, aka the garage to do some more work on the gantry.
 
Instead of working on the boom and pulley attaching hardware I started making the boom elevation attaching and swivel hardware on top of the gantry post.  
I only got to completing all the parts but didn't have the time to attach them to the post.  Hopefully we can do that tomorrow.
 
Here are a few pics of the parts.
 

This shows the parts that make up the swivel attachment for the boom elevation equipment.  I laid them out to the right of the drawing to show where they are suppose to be.   It must of necessity be able to rotate following the swing of the boom and at the same time allowing cable hooks to move up and down when the boom is raised and lowered.  
Needles to say all the parts are still in their rough state.  Only after they are soldered to the top of the post will I clean it up and filed to size.
I made an attaching pin from 0.8 mm brass rod to attach the swivel unit to the two brackets.  I made the head from a small piece of copper tubing and soldered that to the pin.  I notice now though that I have to file the top of the head down some more.  Once the assembly is all installed this pin will have a safety pin run through a small hole on the bottom.  Hmmmm, yeah right, keep dreaming babes    Actually, the drill bit that could do that is broken - - - so it'll have to be done after I order a couple new bits.
The holes you see are 0.8 mm.
I plan to cut grooves into the tube of the post to allow for a better solder connection, it also facilitates holding these small parts for soldering.
 
 

This shows my soldering jig for the swivel unit with the other parts of the whole assembly.
I filed a groove into a piece of wood for the small piece of tubing to lay in and then placed a 0.3 mm thick brass plate next to it.  In order to solder this I used a wooden clothe pin as a clamp to hold it all in one place, this worked like a charm.  The two brackets will also be filed down some more to reduce them in size but that'll happen after they are soldered to the posts so I can clean them up together with finalizing the shapes and sizes.
 
Cheers,  

WOW, thank you all for visiting and liking my stories and build, it's really appreciated.
 
@ Daniel: re the pencil markings on the drawing - - - that's why they call it a working drawing    I always make notes and scribble changes on it.
 
I managed to do some more work on the gantries today.  I had been pondering how to make the boom attachment bracket, that's the piece where the boom and lower pulley attach to.  So, I made a core from boxwood and plated them with brass shim.  I used CA to cement the brass shim to the wood core.  
I drilled a small hole in the post and soldered a brass pin into it.  Then I also drilled the boom pivot pin hole and the hole for the attaching pin in the bracket.
The attaching bracket is then epoxied to the gantry post and spot soldered on the underside only.  It appears to be rather solid.
 
I was also wondering how to finish that triangular fitting for the boom elevation tackle attaching hardware.  I cut three small pieces of square brass stok and soldered them in between the two triangular pieces, like a sandwich.  I hope that the picture below explains it.
 
Well, it looks like things are coming together, slowly.  
Next are the boom pivot attach brackets and the pulley sheaf brackets.  Hmmm, how to make them rotate as if one unit - - - I'm thinking, Im thinking - - - don't disturb me now     
 
Talking about pulleys, Remco is mailing a few pieces of 6 and 3 mm brass rod      [[a birthday present, he says]]  But I have still quite few parts to make before they arrive.  It's all working easier then I expected and I'm having a ball     
 
Okay, here are a few pics to show the progress.
 

This shows one of the boom attach brackets assembled but not dressed yet and the raw pieces for the second bracket.  
 

This shows one of the brackets installed and how these brackets are fastened to the post.  Obviously that long pin is cut off just long enough to reach the pivot hole. As I write this both posts have now these brackets cemented and soldered to them.  No - - - no time yet for primer paint.   There are two more brackets to be soldered to the top of the post for the elevation gizmos   and the cross beam to the other post.
 

This shows the triangular attaching bracket for the boom elevation equipment.  Here you can see the three small pieces of brass that I soldered to the inside to make this thing so that I can pin the pulley hardware to it and the two thimbles for the cables.  This was a tricky thing to do but worked easier then thought.
 
Cheers,
 

Thank you all for visiting and for your like votes, please come again.
 
It's been a few days but last Friday I started with making some of the items for the torpedo loading gantry. But first I made one 6 mm and one 3 mm pulley out of a wooden dowel just to see how these sizes would look.  I think that they should be okay.  The wood I used was not very hard and the result is a little fuzzy but the aim was to check for size.
 
Then I made the two booms and primed them.  I also made two sets of connecting fixtures for the boom elevation come-along.  I think that making the small thimbles will be a real challenge.  I don't know just yet how I'm gong to do that.  They will be slightly smaller then what they show on the drawing above.  The cable is to loop around them and then either spliced or nico pressed together to form a loop.  I may have to cut a groove in a 0.5 mm brass rod 
 
Okay, here are a few pics of my efforts.
 

This hows the two pulleys made from a wooden dowel for size test.
 

Another view of the wooden pulleys
 

This shows one of the two booms with the attaching hardware.  The pulley attaching bracket will be hand filed down a little more now that I have better handle on it. 
 

This shows the boom with all the hardware soldered on.  Next step is dressing everything down some more and then primer paint.
 

This shows a boom all dolled up and primes.  I also placed the lower attaching piece in it's raw state below the boom end to show how it looks before dressing it up.  It'll be soldered into the next boom.  I forgot to make a picture of all the parts that make up the boom.
 

These are the parts to allow connecting the elevation rig to move the boom up and down.  One pair is ready for final shaping and then for the primer, the other set is yet to be completed.  I forgot to lay a ruler next to them but they are small, 4.5 mm.
 
Cheers,

Hello,

thanks for the positive comments.
That makes me happy.
Here is a little update:

Hello everyone, the Piet is back 
Yeah, I took a few days away from the dockyard for other pressing things and besides that I made a few working sketches for the torpedo loading gantries.  It seems that I need some additional material.  I thought I had everything but it turns out that I need one piece of 5/32`` ID brass tubing and of course the 8 mm brass rod for the pulleys.  
That large size tubing is for the lower part of the boom pole to be in scale for that part but it seems to make that upright too bulky.  I need to think about it some before I commit myself.
 
As yuns can see on the below pics there are quite a few parts to it and I have to make two of these suckers, one for the forward end and one for the aft end.  Then there is still the dingy loading boom to do.
 
After I made this sketch I already started to change a few things which I have annotated on the drawing.  It always seems to go this way, after looking at it you begin to see certain details that can be done simpler.
 
The detail sketches surrounding the center assembly sketch are not to scale.  The center assembly sketch is to scale.
 

I have not given every part a name or their measurements yet on this sketch.  As noted above, the sketches are not to scale so I plan to do that as I go along.  Here you can also see why I'm still a little apprehensive to make the upright post of the port assembly that heavy.  It seems a little too bulky, what are your thoughts?
 

This shows the detail of the boom attachment and pulley assembly.  All this must be able to rotate and the boom must be able to be lowered or raised.  It'll be a tricky thing to do.
 

This shows the detail on the top of the boom.  The top triangular part of the plate is to secure the boom to the deck fixture when not in use.  The other two are to attach the pulley brackets to.  The two pulley brackets are identical.
 

This is another intricate detail that'll give some work.  The part where the "come-along" and the stationary cable are attached to must also rotate with the swing of the boom.  The one change I'm making is the top cable attachment.  Instead of a clevis I'll be using a thimble like the center cable attachment.  And no, I'll not be making a miniature "come-along" to lower and raise the boom - - - what d'you think - I'm a magician?? 
 
Cheers, 

continuation of work  

This morning I managed to finish the deck gun before Gwen and I went to my birthday party thrown by our financial advisory company.   
 
I made the simulated elevation adjusting rack and cement that in place.  I'm happy with the way de gun came out and it looks quite menacing when viewed head on.
 
Below are the pics.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Dip the end of the thread in some cyano glue then cut the thread at an angle. Acts like a needle,will pull through easily.
 
Dave

Well. the saga of the deck gun continues but first my thanks to all who visited and clicked on "like."
 
Oh - I guess I could have finished the deck gun today but I wanted to read some more from the book I bought about the "Battle of the Java Sea" by Jeffrey R Cox.  I learned quite a lot on the details that lead up to this battle and the actual action.  It took Mr. Cox several years of research that took him to Japan, Australia and Indonesia as well as here in the Naval Archives to put the puzzle pieces together.  It's a shame that he left out statements from the surviving crew of Hr. Ms. Java, the cruiser my father lost his life on.  My father was mentioned where they were looking for him.  However, I do have a draft copy of that chapter where he is mentioned and will put a copy of it in the book.
It's a very good read and am glad I have the book.
 
So then, after lunch I again ventured into the garage to continue work on the deck gun.  I installed the hand holds but they are not cemented in yet.  I also need to make and install the foot pedals and the simulated elevation mechanism under the barrel assembly.  After that's done then I think the gun is pretty well complete and can be placed on it's mounting plate on deck.
 
Over all I'm quite happy with it and am confidant that all the file scratches will be hidden with a coat of paint 
 
Here are a few pics I'm putting into my personal archive.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Thank you all for dropping in and your likes, it's much appreciated.
 
Well, I had a change in plans.  Instead of cementing the small pieces of tubes to the base unit and using a smaller diameter tube as pivot pin I decided to use pivot bearing pillow blocks instead,  much like the real gun.  I had to remove the already installed copper tube from the central barrel housing and replace it with a longer one that would now rest on the pivot pin bearing billow blacks.
 
So far this worked quite well but now I had to make the closing saddles for the pivot pins and used a thicker brass sheet for that.  I cut a few strips of 2 mm wide and shaped it around a steel pin of the same diameter as the pivot pins.  This did pose a few problems and had to scrap two till I had what I wanted. 
 
I also glued the barrel to the center barrel housing using a 2.5 mm diameter wooden pin.  I was quite happy that everything lined up nice and straight 
 
Then I started with the gun adjusting wheels and got as far as making the rims.  The five spokes will be another story and need to make a jig for them.  I also made the 90* drive unit for the gun rotation mechanism. 
 
This was all I could do today, not much progress because I had to do some necessary correspondence after lunch.
 
Okay, here are a few pics.
 

This picture shows the two baring pillow blocks for the barrel unit.  I cheated by installing one piece of tubing through the barrel unit instead of "bolting" them individually to each side.  Hmmmm, I may fake the attaching hardware with paper parts. There is not much space inside the base unit.  These bearing saddles are from thin brass stock and epoxied in.
 

Here we see the gun barrel glued to the center barrel housing.  Both barrel pivot pin bearing saddles are now epoxied in.  We also see the hole for the future rotation pin to the deck plate.  The pin is made but I want to wait till most of the detail stuff is finished and installed to the gun.
 

This is a shot looking at the business end of the gun.
 

I put the barrel assembly temporarily to the base unit but had to keep it from tilling forward with a small pair of pliers.
 

This shows the 90* drive for the gun rotation adjustment wheel.  The rims are made and waiting the spokes and drive pins.
 

Here you see one of the wheel rims temporarily placed on the drawing of the base unit to look for fit.  Looks okay to me.
 

This pic shows the barrel unit pivot pin locking saddles.
 

Another view of these locking saddles
 
Cheers,
 

G'day to all and thank you very much for looking in and your likes, it's much appreciated.
 
I continued with the deck gun in between some domestic chores.  The main parts are made but need to be refined yet.  Still a lot of work to be done with the small details.
I'll post two pics of an actual deck gun that Freek send a few month ago for yuns to see what I'm trying to achieve.  They disappeared from my build log and have not yet had the chance to put them back.  BTW, quite a few pics have disappeared, arch 
 

The actual deck gun on display at the Navy Museum in den Helder, the Netherlands.
 

 

This shows all the major parts for the gun.  I finished the barrel and inserted a 3.1 mm copper tube in the muzzle end.  It will be attached to the center part with a wooden dowel, which is shown above left of the gun.  The aft part is attached with 2 small 1.5 mm brass tubes and a 3.1 mm copper tube in the lower center as part of the barrel.  The two small tubes are most likely for the shell casing discharge gas to the breech assembly.  I am inserting a 3.1 mm copper tube through the center part for the hinge.  The hinge pivot pin is a 1.5 mm copper tube.  I cut two 2.5 mm long 3.1 mm copper tubes to be cemented to the base as hinge bearings, I put them on the base unit just below for yuns to see and where they are supposed to go.  Hinge bearing retainer straps are from 0.2 mm brass shim stock that'll be cemented to the base kinda modeling it after the real gun.  I hope to be able to also use very fine sewing pins as the attaching bolts.
As you can see there is still a lot of work yet to be dome but so far I'm pretty happy with it.
 
Cheers,

In England at least, some ships were sheathed with an expendable / renewable thin layer of planks. Sometimes "noxious compounds" were put under the planks. It was fairly effective at keeping worms out of the real planking but did nothing to inhibit the growth of weed during long jouneys. Some ships returned from years long trips to the tropics trailing long streamers of seaweed which slowed their speed to a crawl.
 
There were limited experiments with closely spaced big headed nails

pop by anytime Jay the tea kettle is always on.
 
One of my own little fantasies Bob.
 
Sherry I love working with both materials, the beauty of boat models is the variety of materials that one gets to work with.
 
Keith thank you for you very nice commentary about my build log. One of the most important things for me is to understand the how and why of what I am making and if my account of what I am making is helpful then the sharing is worth the time it takes. I feel so much more informed from all the amazing builds on this forum that my own knowledge expands every day I log in.
 
John Thanks for your kind words
 
Ah mark its all smoke and mirrors. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Today was a fun day I finally finished the main sheet attachment to the boom.
 
First I did a forging test with some 1/4 inch brass stock I necked down about 3/4 of an inch to about 1/8th leaving a 1/4 inch long full diameter at the end. this was annealed and forged on the railroad anvil four times to flatten out the end.
 

 

 
After seeing that the forging would work for what I needed, a length of 1/4 inch rod was cut to 2 1/2 inch length with the centre necked down to the 1/8th diameter.  both end were then forged to the same shape as the test piece on the railroad track anvil.
 
after bending the curve into the smaller diameter (if I were to make another I would make it about 1/4 inch shorter) the unit was set up in the vice for drilling. A block of maple the same width as the boom was sandwiched between the ends to support the brass flange while the holes were drilled and then counter-bored to create flats in the slightly tapering flattened flange. The centre hole is 1/8th to allow a brass Chicago screw to replace the pin holding the clew out-haul sheave.
 

 
next the hole was reamed to ensure they were aligned.
 

 
after clean up.
 

 
removing the temporary pin.
 

 
fixing the new tackle
 

 
Done
 

 

 
Michael

Dear friends,

your words mean a lot for me and I appreciate your praise and comments very much. I warmly thank you!
 
 
 
 
 
Well, on the model there will be about 15 crew members from the mid -18th century. The figure of Nelson could be possible only as a very young child, but I do not plan to create him for Royal Caroline. I only answered Sjors.
 
 
No problem, it is possible to purchase here:
LINK REMOVED BY ADMIN BECAUSE THIS SITE HAS SOME SERIOUS COPYRIGHT ISSUES>>><>THEY PIRATE EVERYTHING. 
 
 
 
Hello Robert,

I have an idea - some of my crew members could  visit your beautiful ship, maybe we will meet on the sea one day...
 
 
 
Maybe in the future, but for diorama I need larger space. Now I have only one room, where I keep all models protected against dust and air humidity.
 
 
 
300 figures of men - but not for my model. It would be mission impossible for me.   I am going to create only 15 figures for Royal Caroline.
 
 
 
Oh yes, dear Michael, the figures bring better imagination about real size of the ship and I also try to create more authentic clothes of the crew from 18th century.
 
************************
Here are some larger and actual pics of Royal Caroline:

 
Kind regards
Doris

Hi, She's finished. Last bits to do were the anchors which were silver and soft soldered together from bits of copper.

 

 

 

 
here she is.

 
Thanks for looking!

Forecastle Railing and Spar Rack
 
There is a Railing on the aft end of the Forecastle. Two Stanchions support the port and starboard sections. Each stanchion is fitted with a 2mm diameter x 0.7mm thick sheave which I turned on the lathe :
 

 
I made the rails in two sections, as it was nearly impossible to accurately cut the square holes for the stanchions without splitting the timber :
 

 

 
Some time ago I mentioned that there didn't seem to be a forward support for the ship's boats - yes there is . The Spar Rack does this job - the boats are lashed to spare spars carried on the rack. The rack is the same width as the railings. They still need a finish applied :
 

 

 
  Danny

cont

On this day 1664 Samuel Pepys (Navy board) knowing very little of ships or ship construction applies himself to learning one of the things that would one day enable him to professionalise the Royal Navy.
 
12th. March 1664
...Mr. Stacy with some company of pretty women, I took him aside to a room by ourselves, and there talked with him about the several sorts of tarrs, and so by and by parted, and I walked home and there late at the office, and so home to supper and to bed.
 
One year later he's concerned with the corruption and mismanagement in the Navy...
 
12th. March 1665
...By and by comes in my Lord, and he and I to talke of many things in the Navy, one from another, in general, to see how the greatest things are committed to very ordinary men, as to parts and experience, to do; among others, my Lord Barkeley.
 
And two years later we see the affects of the mishandling of the Navy which Pepys so much wished to change graphically demonstrated.
 
12th. March 1667
 ...This day a poor seaman, almost starved for want of food, lay in our yard a-dying. I sent him half-a-crown, and we ordered his ticket to be paid.

Sphinx from Alex

Amerigo Vespucci from Schiffebastler

Real de France

Friesland by Dieter

Lady Nelson by Lady Hamilton

Royal Sovereign from AVbiker

Wappen von Hamburg

SMS Trinkstein

As time goes by ...

Prince

America from Werner - I like it, its a plastic kit :-)
Cardboard models

 
What a day!!!

For those, who have access, find plenty-plenty-plenty more pictures at:
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2644f93-RE-Forumstreffen-Sued-Das-Happening.html
 
Cheers, Daniel

Just came back - and can you believe it ?!?
 
My small plastic-flower-pot standing in the middle of all those exquisite first class modells ?!?
 
Going bananas!
 
Just some teaser:
 

Dockyard british 74 Tarjack

Wappen von Edam/Pollux

Chebeque from Woodpecker

Thetis from Robbi

Caroline from Tarjack

La Creole archjofo

Bonne Homme Richard from Norbert und Bellona from Peter

Queen Charlotte from Achilles 

Robert,
 
I don't see anything wrong in the drawing. As far as I can see, the breech rope is naturally kinked, due to the gun's being in the 'run out' position. If you mean the way the rope is passed through the side ring, I can't see that as a problem either, as the ring is free to move with the rope on the recoil.

Current part of build
 








 
Enjoy the pics and have a great time.
Best regards
Doris

All hands on deck.............................he i said aaaalllllll haaaaands
 
After I make the many hooks, eyes and blocks (for the guns) have already spots before the eyes, was a small relaxation törn due for the eyes
 
Therefore, I once make another figure from the bulwark ornament.

The images come in the series of steps.
 
After the figure was transferred to paper and glued to the bone support, it was sawn on the contours.
 
And now have fun with the pictures:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Have fun