davyboy

Today she quietly slipped down the ramp and into the water, she drew a few onlookers and thankfully didn't let me down. She's light and easy to handle although the centre board was handy when the wind picked up. She looks right in the water and more importantly she didn't leak even so much as a drop!
 

I did not have an engine for it ,so I took the front bank of 7 cylinders from a 1/32 Revell Beaufighter and sleeved them with aluminum tubing and wrapped with 22 gauge wire to simulate cooling fins.Brass wire serves as pushrods.Too heavy to fly,this will make an interesting ceiling hanger.  

Started plating the spur. After some thought I believe they would have used bronze (or as the archaeologists say nowadays, copper alloy) as it's easier to work into thin plates with the technology available at the time than iron, and the thinner (and thus lighter) the plates the better - they don't have to be strong, just cut the effects of flame for a short time to protect the timber underneath.
 
I used foil taken from our cast-off tins of cat food (the tin itself, not the lid, which unfortunately has an embossed pattern). It's thin enough to emboss easily but strong enough to maintain its shape. The cat doesn't seem to mind.
 

Here are the plates for the bottom of the spur, with simulated nails to hold them in place. I noticed from another thread that coppering on a full-size ship's bottom is actually a little indented where the nails are, so I've done it this way on my spur. Each plate is about 1 metre (3 feet) long in scale, but I've made units containing several plates each, embossed to look like separate plates overlapping each other. I'll paint them to resemble weathered bronze when all the plating is done, and make an "iron" point for the business end - haven't yet decided how I'll do that.
 
 

And for the starboard side. At this magnification they don't look as tidy as they do to the naked eye. Maybe if I'd taken more time I could have got them more precise, but from the archaeology on the Yenikapi finds it seems the Byzantine shipwrights weren't all that precise themselves. 
 
 

Two sides covered. Two more to go. The brass escutcheon pin which was to locate the spur into the hull was rather too short to be secure, so I've replaced it with a longer piece - the shank from a pop rivet. 
 
This is fiddly work and I need a break every now and then, so I've started on the deck beams. They are 1mm thick and 2mm deep (equivalent to 50mm (2") thick and 100mm (4") deep. I got the curve template from Wolfram Zu Mondfeld's excellent book Historic Ship Models.
 

 
To get the deck to run smoothly, I've made beams at intervals about 4-5 beams apart and will then add the intermediate beams to follow the curve outlined by these major beams. Still in progress, and rather more complicated than I'd thought - I've discovered the hard way that the curve has to be measured either side from the centre of the beam, not from one end, and that the top of the beam has to be the same distance above the beam shelf at each end. And as each of the beams is a different length, that means each has to be made individually - no mass production shortcuts, dammit! Still, it's all a learning process, isn't it? 
 

Steven
  

I don't know about Byzantine ships, but usually deck beams have the same round-up all along the deck and are simply different lengths.

Hello,
thanks for your feedback and "Likes", I appreciate your support a lot.
Currently I am producing the Gaff and the Boom for the Corvette.
There were many interesting details to clarify. So z. B. is located on the Gaff peak a small metal block for the national flag.
What is still to be clarified is the design of the Gaff goosenecks the boom.

Source: Auszug aus der Monographie zur La Creole von J. Boudriot

Source: William Dwight Whitney The Century Dictionary: An Encyclopedic Lexicon of the English Language (New York, NY: The Century Co., 1911)
 

Source: Text-Book of Seamanship, Commodore S. B. Luce, 1891
 

Source: Musée de la Marine (Bildausschnitt)
 
For the current building conditions of these components here a series of pictures:

Quelle: Musée de la Marine (Bildausschnitt)
 

 
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Thank you for the comments.  I agree bdb accuracy is not the goal here at all.  Ours funny because McCann mentions that in his book.  Instead of building cross trees he has the builder use thread to tie the masts together.  He called it throwing seaman ship to the wind.  He meant it to be simple not accurate. 
 
Actually after reading through the book I'm somewhat surprised there aren't any McCann style builds on this forum.  For some one wanting to learn scratch building its a great start.  
 
I picked up a bit of paint and went to touching up some spots.  I want to keep the model looking old so I used a dry brush technique.  Wetting the brush the painting on a piece of paper until the paint was almost gone and then painting the model.  
 

 

 
I need better lighting but you can see how the colors come out but not by to much. 
 
I then turned my attention to the stern.  I'm not sure what the original artist was going for.
 

 
I decided to change this up all together.  I was given a color photo of a magazine cover for this ship.  
 

 

 
Here you can see the two lions on top per the book and a pegasus.  The book says to get a picture from a cigar box or catholic literature.  I looked at some from the 1930s and got some good ideas.  I like the pegasus though so I looked up 1930 pegasus.  What I found was interesting. 

 
This pegasus looks very similar to the one on the magazine cover.  So I think that's what I'll use.  
I went ahead and painted the stern and added the two lions per the book.  The stern is somewhat different as built but I think I can mix the book plans in just enough to look good.  
 

Well, at least you were the one to find it, no extra's for dessert ...?

When I was a kid I was walking across the carpeted living room. I felt a sharp pain on the bottom of my foot and started dancing on one leg. As i was hopping in pain my mom with a perfectly straight face said "oh, you found my earing". The entire stud was stuck straight in. We all had a good laugh about it later but I didn't think it was very funny at the time. 

After a loooong time of ... hmm ... Let's say: the shortest days in my life, after returning from my summer ten days long journey throught East Serbia, and having in mind that my vacation still goes on for one more week, I finaly finished third boat
 

 
And here are some nice photos from places I visited
 

If anybody is interested, detailed travelbook can be read on my FB page
 
So, one more boat to go!

Cheers Seventynet and Martin, your encouragement is much appreciated. 🙂
 
Post 32
Mark, drill, awl, mark again, fill, and scrape.
The monotony begins.

1538
To help guide me I used a length of  flexible 7mm  x 0.6mm strip to mark the  presumed frame lines for the treenails down the hull.

1541
Five strakes per day is as much as my patience will tolerate.
This equates to around 450 treenails.

1552
I'm reasonably satisfied that the completed  strakes are sufficiently muted.
Two strakes show the holes drilled and blackened ready for filling.
There are in excess of 1900 holes to drill each side below the wale which means a total of around eight days to complete the job at current rate of progress.
Feels like a lifetime, but until this is done I cannot move forward.🙄
 
Onwards...…..
 
B.E.
14/08/2018
 
 

Close will count on measuring.  What I did on my current build was measure to "about" 20-20 feet and cut the length so that the end landed on a frame.  Each plank was cut to length off of a much longer strip.  I guess I'm just cheap and hate wasting wood. 

Hello Geoff,
Have you considered using Privet. I recall reading on the forum a couple of Australian members recommending this. Apparently it's readily available as it's considered a weed there and grows into a small tree. Sorry but I can't remember who they were,perhaps if you PM Jim Lad he may know.
 
Dave  

Hello Geoff,
Have you considered using Privet. I recall reading on the forum a couple of Australian members recommending this. Apparently it's readily available as it's considered a weed there and grows into a small tree. Sorry but I can't remember who they were,perhaps if you PM Jim Lad he may know.
 
Dave  

Thanks for all the likes and fine comments. A bit more work today first order was to make a couple of left and right Dorade vent forms first a 3/4 diameter end mill then into the side with a 5/16 these were then cut to create the right and left sides.
 

 
Switching gears to the companionway the side panels needed to join with the front and rear cross panels, for this i chose dovetails the same as the skylight.
The initial cuts for the pins were done with the small back saw and the jewelers saw.
 

 
Next they were clamped in the vice with some tool steel guides
 

 
and cleaned up with a few files.
 

 
Then the pins were transferred to the sides and the dovetails marked and cut with the jewelers saw and cleaned up with the files. the front panel required the most dovetails. you can see the primary vent forms in the background I worked on the starboard form first using some .008" brass and also made a domed plug from maple to assist with forming the main bowl section.
 
 
 
Here is a shot of the companionway dry assembled with a scrap panel to see how the new vent looks.
 

 
It is much more durable in the thicker brass, but I think I need to work the form a bit more, the tube section down to the box will need to be opened up a bit to form a better flow it looks a bit restricted. I will also keep it polished.
 
Michael
 
 

Screw


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hello,
 
just that you see that I'm still working, now and then 😉
 I finished the inner planking of the gun deck with deck clamps for the upper gun deck and started to build the gun port lids.
 

 

Same with this one...but there will be no comparison in my opinion.   

Post 31
That Treenailing business
Can't put this off any longer.
I am following Chuck's method of using drilled holes and filler to replicate the Treenails.
I am using a 0.45mm ø drill, a lightweight wood filler, coloured to a pale beige, a fine awl to clean the holes, and a 9H graphic pencil.
I am also finding that I need tape on my thumb and forefinger to ease the pressure of the repetitive drilling using the pin vise.

1502
I started by creating the treenails for the butt joints on the hull, followed by the intermediate ones above the wale.

1501

1506
The pattern I took from the plans using dividers to mark the spacing.
With the topsides completed I applied a coat of wipe-on- poly.

1509

1492

1499

1494
The wale had received some scuffing, so at this point I have also re-coated it.

1498

1491
Losing the will to live with the prospect of the rest of the hull to do; time for reflection on the effect thus far on the first section.
Are the treenails too prominent/ dark/ over fussy?
I think I can live with them but I need to do a little more sanding on the lower hull and a little time to gear myself up to start this next phase.
 
B.E.
 
12/08/2018
 

I'm sorry, but I can't resist -
 
It's a Goldfish
 

Thanks Lawrence
 
 
I started with the rudder. 
Nobody knows if the Golden Hind had a whipstaff or not. They came into use somewhere in the second half of the 16th century. so adding one is not completely incorrect.
 
The rudder is made of 3 pieces of wood.


The helm. I find 2 ways to attach the helm to the rudder. The helm passes through the rudder. Or the helm goes around the rudder
Possibilily 1 is apparently from a later period, from the beginning of the 17th century.
Possibility 2 seems to be the most common during this period. So this it will be.

 
about in the right shape and bent.


My roughly made rudder with the helm. Still a lot of sanding and detailing to do.

 
Thanks for following
 

Ciao e grazie a tutti, altre foto.
Hello and thanks to everyone too kind, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto
 

Ships gather in Hvalfjiord in Iceland for the onward journey to Northern Russia. Among the ships. From the left Convoy Rescue Ship Rathlin, VW Destroyer Vanoc, Corvette Eyebright and one of the 'Ranger' class RFA Tankers. In the distance a KG5 class Battle ship and County class Cruiser
Jim
w/c 15" X 11"

Hi Stergios,you are welcome. I'm happy to have been of help to you.
 
Kind regards,
 
Dave 

Had a nice visit with Jeff (Chasseur) last evening when he stopped by to see the Albertic.
More reworking of the companionway. I am reworking the area that opens up to the hull. The opportunity to rework the position of the skylight which was a bit too close to the mast will be able to be sorted as well. I am going to widen the companionway to scale 36" (4.5"actual) so that it aligns with the skylight similar to the one on the Polly Agatha. So just to save mahogany I made a prototype out of some cardstock.

 

 
I will make a new deck piece by laminating the deck fir planks over the 1/8th aircraft ply sheet once it is properly curved and the cut outs for the companionway and skylights are done.
I actually spent a good part of the day working on upgrading the drawing that I first made when this project began way back in 2012. so a lot of measuring and fixing the drawing which was rudimentary at best.
 
Michael