davec

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Looking forward to this build.
 
Dave

Rob - your AEG came out great!  I learned a lot from your log.

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

Next up will be the Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia.  I usually build my world war 2 planes in 1/48, but have been really happy with the wingnut wings kits and wanted to try Kotare, which is the company that some of the WNW designers and engineers moved to when WNW folded.  I got a good deal on it at the local IPMS show in February.  I will build the AC Deere "Kiwi" plane because I like the kiwi on the side and the black and white underside.  Given the quality of the kit, I don't plan much in the way of aftermarket.  I got the HGW seatbelts because I like them a lot more than photoetch and eduard masks because trying to mask canopies drives me up a wall.  I'm also going to try some camouflage masks.  Will probably be a little time before I make any progress - I have some work and family stuff coming up and want to make some progress on the two boats I'm working on.
 

Looking forward to this build.
 
Dave

OK got some more work done. Started shaping the oars. After sanding the first one to shape I decided we could speed things up with carving them first.
Here are some pics of the process. The carving is not for the feint of heart. It's very easy to carve to far into the oar.
 

ld
 
I made up a cradle to hold it. Saw it on another build. Here one of them is shaped.
 

 
Then I made a crude attempt at ageing/weathering. Have to admit I have no idea what I'm doing here. Hahaha. These aren't even the colors they stayed by the time I finished the base.
 

 
 
I made a base and copied a deck planking pattern I found online. No idea if it's period correct etc. but figured it was good practice.
 

 
I'll call it mostly done, but I have some smaller rope coming for the beckets and I am still going to try my hand at building a tub to hold trawl line.
 
So a few questions for you that are following.
 
I can't find a suitable color for the thwarts and oars. They are supposed to be ash. I've tried a natural danish oil, essentially no change. I tried a provincial maple stain, too red. I have renaissance wax but would like a color on them first.
 
What method do you use to recreate the trunnels? I simply drilled a small shallow hole and put a dab of glue in it then sanded the area so the glue would grab the dust. After staining they took the color a little darker. You can see I still had some glue squeeze out that I didn't catch when sanding.
 
I cut the deck planks by hand I made them 10 mm across.
 
Also what's your preferred method of cutting planks to length? I used a straight edge and sharp blade. Still tough to get the cut square and vertical.
 
I've seen the "chopper" style of cutter and I've also seen cheap Chinese electric chop saws. Any thoughts on either of those? I don't know if those questions will get lost in this build log. Where is a more appropriate forum for those questions?
 
Thanks for all the comments, the Norwegiansailing pram arrives tomorrow!
 
 

"When it came time to fit the thwarts I needed to deepen the slots for the frames. My #16 blade was really helpful here. I guess my dory was a little thinner than most?"
 
I had the exact same problem. I think when you plank and glue under tension, the planks tend to push the hull inward. Which is the reason they wanted you to keep the hull on the frame after it we separated, I believe. I just kind of forced my thwarts in place, to help keep things from contracting.
 
Your dory looks amazing!

Well, Chris, you are mastering a number of basic techniques that you can apply to more complex models later. As for the thwarts, it's much easier to trim them down to fit than to stretch them! You did a particularly nice job at the bow transitioning from clinker to flush at the stem. Well done.

So starting back at it we have the inside painted.
 

 
After a few rounds of touch up back and forth it's painted. I decided to paint the bands green also. I like it.
 

 
I'm happy with the detail on the bow and stern. I looked at a lot of pictures and they're all just a little bit different from each other. Haha.
 


 
Just don't like the heavy looking paint job at this scale.
 
When it came time to fit the thwarts I needed to deepen the slots for the frames. My #16 blade was really helpful here. I guess my dory was a little thinner than most? I had to trim down most of the thwarts but not the middle couple very much. This shows one slot trimmed but not the ends yet.
 

 

 
Still need to shape the oars and the thole pins, I'm having a great time with it for sure.
More to come...
 
Chris

IT's RED!!!!
 
Wow fantastic job... Red isn't a great color to go overall with but you've done it justice...
 
Well done....

Outstanding choice for the finish...it really stands out and makes the viewer take notice.

Dave, congratulations on finishing your DH9. I bet it looks fantastic in its display!

Really nice build, I love the colours. 

Your Lobster came out fantastic, Dave. Congratulations for this vivid looking model and that you have mastered the British rigging. It´s always a WNW moment, when the upper wing falls in place without much effort.

Cheers Rob

Paul and Chris - many thanks.  I picked the scheme because of the bright colors.  The other decal choices that came with the kit were all based around the standard British olive drab.  This one was a lot more fun and looks good in the display case.
 
I didn't take many pictures between the last ones and now, but it is finished.  The rigging took a few evenings and painting was complete on the other parts, so it came together very quickly.  I'm overall very pleased with how it came out, and learned a lot, especially with the decals.  I really love these wingnut wings kits.
 
  

OC - many thanks!
 
Top wing is on.  I cheated a little on rigging the interplane struts.   I can never glue the ends of the rigging into the correct holes without making a mess once the upper wing is attached, so I attached the ends to the upper ends of the struts before gluing the wing on.  Very hard to see once the wings are in place.  I do OK when rigging with turnbuckles through eyelets, but not on british rigging where the line gets glued directly wo holes in the wing.  Next plane I might use eyelets just for the interplane rigging on the upper wing so I have something easier to attach to.  The rest of the rigging has been started on the lower wing.  Later today I'll flip the model over and start attaching the other ends.
 

Rob - your AEG came out great!  I learned a lot from your log.

Looking forward to this build.
 
Dave