ccoyle

Got a smidge done so far -- cockpit bits. The intermediate-level nature of the kit is evidenced by the mix of 3-D detail parts and plain 2-D printed surfaces. No provision is made for glazing the instrument panel.
 

Got a smidge done so far -- cockpit bits. The intermediate-level nature of the kit is evidenced by the mix of 3-D detail parts and plain 2-D printed surfaces. No provision is made for glazing the instrument panel.
 

Got a smidge done so far -- cockpit bits. The intermediate-level nature of the kit is evidenced by the mix of 3-D detail parts and plain 2-D printed surfaces. No provision is made for glazing the instrument panel.
 

Got a smidge done so far -- cockpit bits. The intermediate-level nature of the kit is evidenced by the mix of 3-D detail parts and plain 2-D printed surfaces. No provision is made for glazing the instrument panel.
 

following along as well.....very nice start  

I have been trying to get as much done on this while waiting two weeks to get my order from SB's the USPS temporarily lost my order in Kansas I am just building sub-assemblies as I feel fit bouncing around and Limited Run kits seem to require that the instructions are not the best.I eliminated what might of been a couple errors for me by looking ahead and pulling that procedure into the now.I used a semi-gloss black on the sidewalls and all panels/boxes will be a NATO Black and will NBlack the console on the tubing with the airbrush and tidy up the green with a brush.I need to track down some good color pics of the copit for better clarity.Dan you made this happen

Log #35: Cannons and Other Fittings
Thank you everyone for stopping by and all the encouragement.
 
I attached the deadeyes to the hull. I can’t remember which build log I saw this in, but in it they temporarily attached a piece of string to the mast at the correct height to get the right angle. Since that seemed a good method I copied it.

I also received some wooden belaying pins from crafty sailor which are a bit more to scale than the PE ones in the kit. I painted them black as I felt that produced the best contrast.

I also decided I would depart from the kit arrangement for the stove pipe. Using some random pieces of plastic from my bits box I was able to construct something roughly the scale depicted in Goodwin. Conveniently I found some pieces that had rivets on them (I think from a tank armour plate or something like that) and was able to use them to match up with the drawings in Goodwin.

I also took some scrap pear to make a moulding around it. Once completed I painted it black and then for the stove pipe I edge highlighted with a dark metallic paint to give the illusion of metal. I also picked out the rivets with this colour.

For the cannons I began by priming them black (I did this a few weeks ago in the massive painting session). I then did a heavy dry brush of vallejo german grey (a dark grey) from the top and the sides. Dry brushing is a great technique for cannons as it produces a rough finish which allows us to somewhat simulate the uneven surface of a cast iron cannon. If you are interested in the technique I would recommend looking it up on youtube (there are many videos on the subject). However I will describe the process briefly.

First I take a small makeup brush (I just get them at the dollar store) and stick it in the paint filling up the brush. It is important that you do not wet the brush first. Then take an old tshirt and brush until very little comes off the brush. We then with a light quick motion brush on the cannon. You can see the effect of this below:

Notice how the recesses stay black while the exposed surfaces pick up the colour. I then proceeded to do two more dry brush layers. The first with a medium grey and then a final with a light grey covering less and less of the cannon each time. You have to be very careful as you use the lighter colours and really work to get the paint off the brush. Otherwise you will end up with too much paint on the cannon. The lightest colour should mostly be picking up the sharp upper edges.

This is what they looked like once they were done and below you can see one of the cannons on a carriage.

 

Continuation with planking above the wales.  I am trying to complete the five 7/32" wide strakes above the wales.   I had two of them completed,  but before I move further up towards the shear,  I needed to add the sweep port lids and fixed block shells on the outboard side.
 
This is just like on the Winnie and all other projects I build.  These must be added so we can plank around them neatly.  Use the template to find there locations.  Below you can see how the plank directly below the sweep ports needed to be cut around each and every port.  I basically followed the template.  This does take some time to do but if you just go slow it will all turn out fine.  I made sure I had a very sharp blade as I was cutting the plank around the sweep ports and gunports.  One wrong move or if impatient and you can remove too much from the plank and you will have to start over.  Thank goodness there are only six gunports but there are plenty of sweep ports to carefully cut around.  I have one more 7/32" strake to go which will need to be cut around the tops of the sweep orts next.
 
You may notice that I am also leaving a 1/64 to 1/32" rabbet around the bottom and sides of each gun port.   Even though this sloop didnt have gun port lids, they may have used bucklers during heavy seas and bad weather.  Its just a guess but it seemed like the way to go.  You could omit this and simply cut to the edge of your port openings if you like.  Its hard to tell on the contemporary model if they have this rabbet.


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

If you want to take your oars up a notch, you can try flattening the blades and slimming the shafts. Fiddly work, but I think you'll like the result.

Humm I wish i had used PVA !
Started using UHU as recommended in the build instructions.
Not good ! The UHU was quite hard to apply - quite "gummy" and stringy" and the card delaminated a bit and the glue seemed to "wet" the surface - so teeny trace of warp. And the glue  dried too fast while trying to fit many small fiddly pieces.
Was I using the right UHU I ask - just UHU all purpose?
 
I had the sense to stop , disassembly was mostly  easy . Let things settle then a touch of acetone released the joints that were harder stuck . So try again tomorrow, but with a somewhat diluted PVA rather than UHU.  I think that will better suit my personal application, assembly and adjustment speed.
 
But this paper model approach is sucking me in !!  I need to remember it was an assessment method to help select a suitable wooden Kit.   For a few pounds well worth wile and cheap fun !
But this scale is FAR too small so I will have to head to 1/64. 
I see Billings still do Lilla Dan - my first ever build whch must have been some 40 years ago  - how time flies !
What do people think of that kit _ i know Billings are not a hugely highly rated maker but nostalgia plays a part !

mounting the rudder:

some progress:

Dear prospective ship modeler,
 
Welcome! If you're reading this, it's probably because you are ready and raring to get started on a first ship model. But before you do, allow me to share the following with you.
 
We get a lot of first-time builders on this forum. People who are eager to build a first ship model are attracted to the hobby for a variety of reasons. Perhaps you were captivated by a stunning model of the USS Constitution or the HMS Victory. Maybe you have a beloved relative who was a modeler. Or it could be that you just have a love of the sea, even if you've never sailed on anything larger than a rowboat. All of us came to MSW with similar motivations. Those of us who have been at this for a while not only love the hobby, but also love passing along our experience to new builders. It's a special treat to see a new modeler persevere through the joys and sorrows (and often tedium) of building a ship model and arrive successfully at the end of a build with a finished model to be proud of.
 
Unfortunately, many of those eager new members also turn out to be last-time builders as well. There are lots of reasons why a first-timer might give up. Building a nice ship model requires the learning of many new skills, a not inconsiderable amount of tenacity, and usually a significant time investment. Some new modelers get bored, others get overwhelmed, and some get overtaken by things like career changes, cross-country moves, babies, sudden illnesses -- that life stuff we all have to deal with occasionally. We understand those things happen. We get it.
 
This post, though, is written for a particular kind of first-time modeler: the modeler who takes on more ship then they can handle. Unfortunately, this kind of modeler is all too common. Bewitched by a clipper ship or sailing man-of-war, this kind of newbie believes that they can jump right in and build something similar.
 
Allow me to use an analogy. I'm not a pilot, but I love old warbirds. Suppose I go to an airshow and, having been awed by the spectacle, decide to go out and buy a P-51 and take her up for a few high-g maneuvers. All with no flying experience, mind you. I don't have to tell you how that first flight is likely to end up.
 
Sadly, many of the newcomers to MSW have a similar experience with model ships. They come brimming with pluck and determination, convinced that they can build a Constitution or Victory. In most instances, these bright-eyed neophytes wind up like the over-zealous new P-51 owner -- dead. Well, unlike the pilot, the would-be modelers are probably still alive, but their dreams of nice model ships have certainly gone to a better place.
 
Now, before I go any further, allow me to make a few things perfectly clear. Am I saying that a new modeler should never attempt a complicated model or that newcomers never finish such models? No, I'm not saying that. There are a few modelers who have attempted such projects and completed them, so it is certainly possible. But those modelers are very few in number. And we don't have any rules about what kind of model you can or can't build around here. If you absolutely, positively have to have a crack at a three-decker or frigate, then have at it. We'll be glad to help you along the way. But just be aware ahead of time how much of a challenge you are getting yourself into.
 
Let me throw some numbers at you to illustrate my point. One of my jobs here at MSW is to comb through old build logs and edit the titles of completed builds to show that the model has been finished (it makes searching for finished models easier). Obviously, as I sift through the builds I find many unfinished ones. On just one page that I was recently checking, I found twelve unfinished build logs started by first-time builders. In ten of those build logs, the new builder never made it past completing the hull of his ship. In the other two, the builder never started the model at all. Nine of those twelve modelers are no longer active on this site. I did not include among those twelve modelers any who gave a life-got-in-the-way reason for suspending their build. They're simply twelve modelers who eagerly started their project and then, usually quite early on, just gave up and quietly disappeared without giving any reasons why.
 
Those twelve builds all had one thing in common: each modeler had chosen a model that posed significant challenges for a first-time builder. Some of those models would have been a challenge even for a skilled builder. Simply put, they doomed their attempt at modeling by choosing a model that was over their head.
 
All of us ship modelers know how real the temptation is to skip an entry-level model and go straight for lots of guns and lots of sails. But here's the whole point I want to make: seriously think twice about caving into that temptation. The evidence speaks for itself - literally hundreds of abandoned build logs begun by modelers who bit off more than they could chew. Many of them not only abandoned their build, they also gave up on the hobby entirely.
 
It didn't have to be that way. Making a good start by honestly appraising your skill level and deciding to go with a simple first model is one of the surest ways to success in this hobby. Most true beginner models -- those actually designed for beginners and not merely labeled as such -- don't require a lot of money, time, or expensive tools. In a few weeks you'll know if this hobby is for you without having gotten yourself worked up over a model you couldn't realistically complete. And you know, most of us here enjoy watching the progress on a relatively 'easy' model, like a small sailboat, just as much as we enjoy watching the progress on an HMS Victory -- especially when we see those models being finished and proudly displayed.
 
And you know what? Success breeds further success. 
 
For more information on choosing a first model, check out the NRG modeling resources page.
 
Choose wisely, enjoy the journey, and I look forward to seeing you complete your first build log.
 
Respectfully,
Chris

Here they are, pretty happy with them actually. I used white spray paint first but wasn’t happy with the finish, it gave a glossy plastic look. So I gave them a coat of white acrylic.
 
I’m not sure about the oars, they seem a little big but when I put them next to the deck furniture they seem ok.

Ok this is where iam now on my kit so far  I'm getting the beams on the side the top deck is now in place The top deck was really warped so I tried to take some of it out I got some out at the front that still got a bit too high The staircase should be in place but I've had a real hard time getting that photo edge rail to stick to the wood I tried a poxy and it still popped apart The staircase should be in place but I've had a real hard time getting that photo edge rail to stick to the wood I tried  epoxy glue and it still popped apart here are some pic If anybody has any idea how to glue that photo edge Rail to the wood could you please let me know  For the spiral staircase at the front

So today I got some colours down, easy for some big bright colours tomorrow 

update
 
made the bilge keels, the raw standplates,and the pedestals
 
Nils
 

the raw standplate prior to staining and the two pedestals. Am again using brass parts of a candle holder and made a 5 mm center boring
 

the bilge keels are from aluminium flat 2 x 15 mm. Here in the pic the alum. strips are appr. 12mm wide, but that was too narrow, so they wii be rejected
 

am experimenting a little how to get the prop / rudder area. The upper aft area (poop sides) will be vertically planked
 
Nils

Hi modelers,
 
here the next steps to be posted.....the middle rails and the cathead support knees are done, the framing for the head grating is done, and I started with the grating timbers. 
 
Note the additional stripes along the framing and the main headrails as a support for the framing timbers.
 
The cathead support knees were notched instead of removing the hull molding stripes.
 
 
Greetings
 
Werner

Some work has started on making mast parts. 
 
At the moment, it's anything but tapering! I've just set up my lathe to make a start on the various dowel sections. In the meantime...
 

Construction of the yards.

Hi guys,

This weekend I started to construct the yards. 3 to be exact. Each yard consist out of two parts tapered to the end. When bound together a strong but flexible yard is the result so it won't break in the wind. This is what I want to simulate, so I want to give the wood a light curve. I drew the curve on a piece of plywood and use some brass nails along the lines to hold the two parts of the yard in place. Water and steam is used to set the curve into the memory of the wood. I used the Admirals iron when she doesn't noticed it. 
I let the wood "set" overnight. The next morning I used Ink to blacken the yards and placed some temporary bindings to hold the two part together.
 
 
 

The bindings are placed with equal distance of each other. I cut the temporary bindings when reached. They are no longer needed only to hold the parts together during the placement of the final bindings.
 
 
 

When all yards are ready....
 


 

 

Still no masks at hand, spring can be awful here. It's the worst weather of the year, normally and every second day is a holiday, so no working customs, no working mail.
Meanwhile, I painted the wheels with my usual workflow, spraying the hubs first, in this case semi matte black, then mask the hubs and spray the tires. Here I used Nato Black as a base and then sprayed the flanks with some drops of Field Blue in the Nato black. Last step are pigments in a concrete tone rubbed in for enhancing contrasts and simulating abrasion and dirt. Some details were picked out by brush on the hubs.
The kit wheels look especially good, it's strange, how different the quality of the plastic parts is in this kit.
 

 
Next were the parachute packs for the Ratos jets. I sprayed everything in RLM 22, masked the belts off and used Buff for the remainder. The ropes were painted by brush and then I rubbed in some concrete pigments.
 

 
Cheers Rob

Tonight I installed the STAYS, the Bob stay, Fore stay, and the Back stays and made lashings to the turnbuckles! 
I’m wondering exactly what color should I use on the turnbuckles that would closely resemble the real ones? 
Input on this appreciated! please!

 

 

 

Framing Complete
 
So I've finished the framing (stern and gun port) with very little drama.  One thing that needs to be pointed out is a discrepancy between the framing plan sheet and the instructions, for the stern framing.  Following the plan would put the stern windows at the wrong height.  The pictures in the instructions are correct, and I've patterned mine after that, as shown in the first photo.  Additionally, just to make sure, I got out the stern arch piece and dry fit that to verify that the window line is right. 
 

 
Next, the significant task of gun port framing, old school.  No laser cut sills and lintels here!  Just tons of little sticks.  Actually, I enjoy this step.  I know a lot of folks find it quite tedious.  I guess it is, but it's one of those things where you feel like you're actually building something, and I find it satisfying when done.  
 
On the framing plan the framing parts stated to be 3/16" were actually drawn a little too small, like 1/8" or so, but the text legends are correct.  And the instructions of measuring up 1/8" from top of bulkheads for the bottom of the sills seems to work out correctly for the 3/16" dimension and the measured height of one of the gun carriages.
 
So the framing is complete and rough sanded.  Next some finer sanding work and onto planking, where the real test (for me) will be.  
 

 

Something to file away for reference for future builds is to check the straightness of the longitudinal profile former (false keel) before mating the bulkheads to it. Yours looks to have a noticeable bend in it. Another recommendation I would make, and this is worth putting your build on hold for a few days or weeks while you do it, is to get a copy of Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini and read it. It's a great introduction to the process of building a wooden model, and particularly so in your case because Frank used a build of the very similar Artesania Latina Bluenose kit to illustrate his methods. I think you would find his book very helpful.
 
Cheers!

We’re back on track. It feels good to see some positive progress after having spent some effort fixing mistakes. 
 
The first thing I did was glue the two deck halves together, explicitly against what the instructions recommended. 
 

 
Then I decided that painting the cockpit would be easiest before the deck was attached, so I gave everything which would remain visible a couple of coats of white paint. This is the same white I plan to use as my base colour for the entire deck and upper hull. 
 

 
While in the painting mood, I quickly gave a nice coat of blue to the seat. This is my intended contrasting colour for the lower hull, rails, and likely the mast as well. 
 

 
It still needs a second coat, but it was at this point that I decided I’m not actually going to glue in the seat until after the planking is complete. By leaving the seat out until the planking is finished I will have an easier time painting the inside of the hill white without needing to avoid the seat. You can also see the patch I added to the seat back to fill some of the oversized hole. 
 
Here came the tricky part, gluing the deck to the frames. I hadn’t thought through this consequence of permanently gluing the centre board into the “down” position. It made fitting rubber bands tricky and I’ll have to keep that in mind for when o get to the planking. 
 

 
Deck installed, I cleaned up the edge where it met frame 6 and filled in the unneeded hole intended for the centre board mechanism. 
 

 
Once the paint goes on I suspect the seams here to disappear nicely. 
 
Now I’ve begun the job of fairing. This is going to take a long time.
 

 
It’s not something I should rush, and getting it right is vital to having the planking look correct, but I’m feeling a little impatience with this step. Time to put it down and come back tomorrow.