WackoWolf

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for dropping by with the comments and ‘likes’, much appreciated.
 
Chris, perhaps multimedia would be more appropriate    I am holding off doing the card parts since I want a more structured build starting with the hull and working up to the superstructures.  I have to hold off doing these as not sure what is covered with the laser cut forms so will have to wait until I get them.  The guns are a time filler until then.  I might do a card one for comparison at the end.
 
You provided invaluable advise the 1st time round so hopefully you will keep an eye out this time also. Also your 8 part series in the card thread got my interest up again and was most helpful.
 
 
Okay it was time to form the body cabinets.  These were bent to shape from the flat ‘petals shown previously.  Got to say it was very difficult getting the width correct as they essentially sit on the thin perimeter. 
 
Once bent to shape I used some Tamiya tape, sticky side up, to hold the bodies still, whilst I needled some epoxy into the centre area and then placed the cabinet doors on.  Problem is I now need to leave well enough alone until it sets and I can do the other side.
 
The size and shape aren’t very consistent and the widening of the cabinet from top to bottom isn't as pronounced as it should be but honestly, I think once finished up and painted no one will notice them at viewing distance on a ship 1.2 metres long!

 
 
Leaving the bodies aside to set I glued the base plates to the pedestals.  They look okay and I like the effect of the bases lifted up off the deck.

 
 
There are plenty of other bits and pieces to work on whilst stuff dries so made a start on the gun carriages.  (by the way I am just making up the names of these parts to what I think is appropriate for describing  )  I gave the outside face a rough up with sandpaper as doublers are glued to these.
 
Luckily for me the blade of my engineers square is the correct thickness for the centre section.  So it was a case of pressing down on the part with the square blade and then using a single edge razor blade to slide under and prise the sides up.  A quick tweek with the tweezers finished them off.

 
 
I am no expert with photo-etch but discovered a good tip which may prove helpful as it works for me.  I only ever cut the PE on a piece of MDF.  Since the surface is relatively firm all the blade cutting force goes into cutting the brass.  I found cutting PE on a cutting mat distorts the piece to some degree since the mat deforms/sinks/bends initially before the blade starts cutting thus deforming the part.  MDF has no give so no distortion.
 
I guess the MDF is harder on blades but for all the above I have used the same no.11 blade and it’s still serviceable so far.
 
Cheers
Slog

I'm building using the Hahn method also.  Attached some pics of the two main tools I used for setting the frames on the buildboard.
 

Thanks for the comments guys.
 
A little progress..... I have fitted the 3 crutches aft. Each of these was roughly cut based off cardboard templates, then sanded, sanded and finally sanded some more until they fit ok.

There is "air" between the ends of the crutches and the frames which I am comfortable with, however I am considering slipping some planking under them. Next on the agenda is fitting the lower hooks at the bow and the foremast step. I am also experimenting with some wood to build some of the internal structures, so hope to have some progress shots of that soon.
 
So, feeling that I was close to finishing the external fairing and then I could charge (figuritively) ahead with internal work, I took her outside for a bit of a cleanup. Started sanding lightly with a fine sanding stick ... moved onto a rough paper .... ended up using a wood rasp and chisel. Ok then, perhaps there are a few more hours of sanding to go then ...
 

 
I can say that I am happy with my decision to fit the deck clamps and gun ports before doing the external framing, as it has provided a lot of strength to the hull. I have been able to use a powered hand sander and twice knocked her against objects while carrying her outside for sanding without any frames getting damaged.
 
And since I get quickly tired of sanding I started a little side project  (admiral thinks I have the attention span of a gnat)

Cheers all
Rob

You can always claim there is gun on board, no one will lift the cover 
 
Jan

The cleats on the rail that are really squarish looking were made just as the plans have them drawn.
They are listed as a kevel cleat. I'm unsure if I will leave them looking new and unused or I will pop
them off and give them some sanding.
 
Thanks Christian. Playing with different woods  was one of the most fun parts.
 
Ok the hatch covers have been completed, sanded and one coat of wipe on poly applied.
She's now ready for the open sea! That would be if there was cannon aboard.
 

 

the scale of the inlets  is incorrect, but i have been following other builds where they are slighlt recessed recessed, i may put another level on in another direction before they are painted the same colour as the hull, and this mill hopefully let them appear flush to the hull

Okay, here you go. I tried to paint the details black, since the background for the various ornaments is black as well... 
 
 

 

Always learning something new, thanks.
 
Yesterday it was gallery carving time. I used walnut and limewood, but the result is not much satisfying, I don't like the colours. Maybe I should paint the great parts in plain ochre or maybe use a completely different scheme. Any opinion?
 
 

 

 

Hi Toni,
 
That's the same shape Lower Capstan Step as my "Vulture". It's the actual step, not an addition on top.
 
Here's the Link to the post in my build log where I made it.
 
  Danny

Work progresses slowly on the upper deck framing.  No pics this week.  The next significant structure to construct is the capstan step.  In TFFM this is shown as a roughly rectangular block of wood inserted between the beams and its supporting carlings.  On the Atalanta plans there is a ovate structure instead.  This would seem to have much less strength than the one suggested by David.  I am looking for some help on this one.  Is the structure shown on the plan correct?  Or is this seated on top of a rectangular step?
 

Hi Grant,
 
There's a Third Option - make the Yard Tackles look like they are REALLY doing something by hooking them up to a Longboat ready for "Liftoff" like on my "HMAT Supply". Sorry about the camera angles, I can't find a clearer pic on my computer and you'll have to go to Norfolk Island and visit the Pier Museum to see the model .
 
   
 
  Danny

I'm going to join in with Mobbsie and cast a vote for option 1.  It's clean and I just have a fancy for stuff 'out there'.  I will be standing by awaiting receipt of an award certificate for just finding the yard tackle pendant in photo 1.

I need to make a decision now about how to display the Yard Tackle Pendants.  Basically, I can show them "in use", by which I mean with the tackle extended and hooked into a ringbolt in the channels (which is what the kit was trying to show - I think), or I can show them "triced up" (showing the tricing lines rigged, with the tackle hooked into the futtock shrouds).  I think there is a third option, which would be to have the Tackle Pendants secured along the yard, with tricing lines removed (which I think would be their normal "sea-going" position).
 
I decided to try rigging one of each of the first two options to see what they looked like.  But before I could do that, I realised that the Long Tackle Blocks in the pendants were upside down       (oops....)  Re-doing those in situ was something of a challenge, but not too difficult.  While I was at it, I fixed the ones on the Main Yard before I got to fitting it!
 
I'd really appreciate some opinions on which version to settle on, so I took some pictures of each.  This proved to be harder than the rigging job itself!  Apologies for the poor photos - these are the best I could manage.
 
So, here are a few showing Option One - "in use" (final belaying not yet completed):
 

 

 

 
And here are a few showing Option Two "triced up" (final trimming of lines not yet complete) (Note: the brass wire is a weight to put some catenary in the tackle line):
 

 

 

 
And finally, here is a head-on shot hopefully showing both options:
 

 
So waddayareckon?  Option One or Option Two (or something completely different?)

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 39 – Aft Cant Frames
 
Clipper Ship Note:  The longitudinal hull lines on the American clippers introduced some new terms and redefined some old ones.  Furthermore, the names of some these lines differed between builders.  Young America’s table of offsets was generally similar to most of the breed.  It included the following longitudinal lines.
 
The wale delineated the top of the band of thick planking also called the wale.  As in earlier ships, the curve of this line defined the sweeping fore and aft sheer of the ship.  In clippers, unlike RN 18C ships, the line was higher forward and lower at the stern.  In Young America’s case the band of heavy wale planking extended downward about ten feet almost to the turn of the bilge.  The wale line was high - usually two feet or so below the line above – the planksheer.
 
The planksheer defined the underside of the rail that capped and sealed off the main inboard and outboard planking.  It was essentially parallel and at the level of the top of the main weatherdeck waterway.  The planksheer rail was penetrated by toptimbers of the frames that ran up to a higher level at the tops of the sides.
 
The main rail line defined the underside of the main rail.  It was about three feet above the planksheer and about 18 inches below the rail that capped the tops of the toptimbers.
 
This last line was called, in the case of Young America, the fancy rail.  In other ships it was known as the monkey rail.  It defined the top of the side from stem to stern.  Young America’s fancy rail is at the level of the poop deck aft and slightly higher than the topgallant forecastle deck at the bow. 
 
Another open rail was constructed above the fancy rail along the poop deck to help keep the crew out of the drink.  On Young America this was a wood rail on turned brass stanchions.
 
All of these rail lines were, for the most part, parallel curves.  Below is a body plan with the lines marked.
 

 
So, back to the model.
 
The first picture shows cant frames 48 forward to 45 installed.   The square is positioned for checking the cant of frame 45 on the port side – from the base drawing.
 

 
The next picture shows a different view of the assembly at the same stage. 
 

 
The “feet” of the cant frames were left a bit on the heavy side and will be sanded back fair to the bearding line later – probably before bolting.  Otherwise the frames are pretty well beveled to their final shapes.  Two more pairs to go.
 
In the next picture the template has been placed over the tops of the frames at this stage to check position.
 

 
The next picture is a view from under the stern at the same stage.
 

 
The space between the two central stern timbers will later be fitted with a chock shaped to the helm port.  In the next picture, frame 44 on the port side is being held in place during fitting.
 

 
In the next picture this frame has been installed and frame 43 on the starboard side is being glued in place.
 

 
The last picture shows all of the aft cant frames installed before the clamps on the last were removed.
 

 
The 12 aft half-frames - 42 to 31 - will now be made and installed to complete the frame installation.
 
 Ed

I guess the technique for tightening up loose frames is pretty intuitive and obvious. I glued some thin strips into strategic places and now have the frames glued in. When they are dry, I'll install the deck and then see about that pesky rabbet. Below is a my super cheap Central Machinery 1" belt sander. It did a great job of shaping the bow filler blocks. It'll do a nice job of beveling your knuckles too. The next pic shows the gaps between the frame and keel. The rest are of the glued-up framework. This model shipbuilding is pretty fun--so far...
 
Thanks for reading.
 
Steve
 
 

Hi Matti,
 
You've done yourself proud mate, those carvings are excellent. This really is one fine build.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Matti,
 
Those cathead braces that you made are awesome. Nice work. Also the historical context is interesting. I may have to pull mine out now and do a better job (:-)  Great labor intensive update.!!
 
Cheers,
 
 
Michael

Cheers fellas!
 
Tony, I did notice printed gentlemen on plywood squares in the old spareparts I got my hands on earlier. There are no print on the ones in my kit. Since the kit has nice figures otherwise I think its a good idea to make your own versions of these guys.
 
Ah, I see Steve. Like below the heads? lol.  
 
Cheers Nigel, I think the odd details like these sculptures or the blue purple thingie are the most interesting ones.
 
 
/Matti

Well done my friend, those carvings are 100% better than the printed plywood versions supplied with the kit
Tony

Small update. Vasas sculptures where not all emperors and glory, two of them were jokes aiming to make fun of Gustav Adolfs main enemy King Sigismund of Poland. Below the two catheads polish noblemen croushes under tables. These were best seen from sitting on the heads, so it's made for the crewmens amusement.
 
The BB don't have plastic sculptures for this, actually their solition is to use pieces of wood instead. I decided to dare the gods of shipmodelmaking and carved simplified versions of them instead.
 
The original shape is pretty strange and from the outside you can barely see what it is supposed to be, without color anyway. I did end up with some problems here as there are many angles meeting up there and anyone doing the BB kit should try and plan for this stage early. When it comes to sculptures, these are the toughest to fit on the model in my opinion. 
 
Here are reference pictures of the polish noblemen, as you see the shape is quite special:





 
 
And here are mine:



 
 
/Matti
 
 

There is some seriously impressive work going here mate, I love every update.
 
Keep it up Wes.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie