NMBROOK

Thank you Michael Work may still be in fits and starts over the next few months but hopefully things should settle down by Christmas
A few pics.I have started to assemble the transom support work to reflect the kit's drawings.Not a great deal of changes required as I hadn't go as far as extending the hull sides to accommodate the overhanging upper deck and balcony.This is one area where I will be deviating from the kits design,mainly for ease of construction.There is supposed to be a piece of curved ply on the transom face with a large casting bonded on top featuring the windows.Careful study of the casting has made me realise there is an easier approach as I want my windows opening out instead of painted on.
Plan is to remove the vertical carved detail from the casting and bond it on afterwards.Also planking straight on to the framework makes the stern counter transition easier to accomplish as both faces will be covered by the same thickness material.The counter is carved from a solid block in the kit but I would like to have the option of having the gunports open.
I have started the transom framework paying attention that the vertical members fall centrally behind the window pillars and carvings.Epoxy and copper pinning has been used as this needs to be solid before I finish fairing the hull.Once this is complete I will move to the counter framing which will double as lining for the four stern chasers.Then,finally I came shape the round tuck and get rid of that square end to the filler blocks
Other conclusions have been drawn now I have the armament for my lower deck,but will cover these when I get to that stage,too much for one post  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

"PS, don't replank ear, and send model to surgery  "
Got to love that one Nenad.
 
Ear thing's going to be just fine.  Powerful anti-biotic drops every day until surgery.... keep moisture out.... no sweat (literally).
 
As for re-planking the hull.... got to be done. 
I simply believe the planking strakes of a 15th century war ship, even though painted, should be seen.
The SOS may be my last major project, and because she's a pretty special ship, I just feel like I've got to get her as "right" as I can.

Nigel,
 
Your build logs have been missed, very nice that you will again spend some time back in your shipyards.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Gosh,over 5 months since I posted on here!!
Over the past couple of months no progress has been made but I have had the opportunity to do a great deal of thinking.My new position at work is taking all my time leaving me realistically Sunday to do what I want.Money wise,I certainly can't grumble but it does mean my modelling time has drastically been reduced.
I basically need to take stock and reassess many of the projects I have on the go.I am going to continue with Mordaunt but need to take a change of direction.To carry on as is would result in many years work at the rate I am going coupled with the fact there are a few small details I am unhappy with.I believe that to move the model back in the direction of the stock kit will bring back the enjoyment into the build.I had previously set my bar so high,I worry carrying on will result in frustration at not being able to make anything in the way of progress.
There will be some minor detail changes to the stock kit,mainly around the windows and a change in timber for the topside planking,but in the majority I am going to use as many kit parts as possible.It does build into a nice model out of the box and I found one on the net that won a gold medal in the Czechoslovakian championships with minimal  changes.
Currently I am reviewing the drawings and Pete's interpretive files to establish how the changes I have made already impact the fit of the kit stern etc.So far everything looks like it will fit as intended,I have to console myself that all the additional work has resulted in a superior foundation for the main deck and hull planking.At least I will only have one layer of hull planking to fit after completion of hull fairing.
Royal William may be shelved until retirement or if my circumstances change in the distant future,you never know I may even buy the kit and graft the prow I made into that build,but that is something for another day
I am not too sure when the next update will be,but will no doubt be when I have turned the build around a little in the direction I want to head
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great to see ya back at Mordaunt Mate !
 
E

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have had a bit of an eye opener.Whilst 'mocking up my stern to see how the Quarter gallery castings match up to the transom,I had a bit of a shock.What appears to be one single casting is around seventeen individual pieces hand riveted together!!!!That care and attention to detail I find astounding in the kit market.To think I was going to discard the castings     .
Pictures to follow tomorrow to illustrate the point.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Patrick and Nigel In fact,thanks to everyone again who has commented or hit the like button.Your support and understanding has made me feel comfortable with decision.I think I need to be realistic and put the quest for historical exactness and fully framed builds on hold till I retire Just get back to basics and enjoy this great hobby for what it is,I no longer have the freetime to take things as seriously as I have been doing and actually complete something in a realistic timeframe.
Far too many models I wish to make,infact I just bought some plans for a vessel the other day They had to go in the stash as the kit manufacturer has gone down the pan due to fire,but if I do build her it will be in a decent scale to match Chris Watton's Victory.The kit was pretty bang on for authenticity,Mamoli just got the date and history wrong Do also wonder whether she is supposedly the vessel featured in Les Miserables as she was indeed wrecked in drydock
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Mike, Joe - thanks for taking the time explain, very helpful indeed.  I think I'm getting into some new 'lots of questions' territory.
 
Nigel - likewise, happy you are "back"
 
All the best.

Sorry to hear of your redos Dave and your ear problems.
I can share my personal experience of ear problems with you to put your mind at rest.I was continually plagued with ear infections since birth and had gromits fitted many times.When I was 18 I approached a specialist to see what could be done.The infections had destroyed my left ear drum almost entirely and I am nearly stone deaf in my left ear.However,I was referred to a surgeon,he grafted skin from above my ear and reconstructed my ear drum.It hasn't cured the deafness,that is attributed to damage much further inside,but,touch wood,I haven't had an ear infection worth mentioning in twenty five years!!
Still no good at swimming though,that was the ones games activity I always had to be excused from as a kid!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have had a bit of an eye opener.Whilst 'mocking up my stern to see how the Quarter gallery castings match up to the transom,I had a bit of a shock.What appears to be one single casting is around seventeen individual pieces hand riveted together!!!!That care and attention to detail I find astounding in the kit market.To think I was going to discard the castings     .
Pictures to follow tomorrow to illustrate the point.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple of pics to illustrate the multipiece casting approach I mentioned earlier.The cast rivets can be seen on the inside although not as clear as in real life as the peening marks can be made out.Yes I have a solution for the windows,like I say all will be revealed in due course
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Mounting rudder to the keel heel.....
 
Nils
 
 

 
the brass reinforcement is glued in place with Epoxy 2 component glue, the 4 brass anchors are additionaly put on
 
 

 
The long ends of the anchors will be clipped off inside the keel outcut

JesseLee, Mobbsie,Carl, and the likes - thanks for all the positive comments
 
Continuing with the main yard:
 
After adding a few of the requisite blocks, it was finally time to figure out how to tackle the stirrups and horses.  The instructions indicate using wire, but I wanted something a little more realistic so tried making with 0.5mm line.
 
Made the usual false splice into a length of line using an offcut of .75mm wire to get eye of appropriate size.
 

 
These were then lashed around the yard in the appropriate places and diluted PVA applied to add some stiffness and secure in place.  A length of wire was used to try to keep the eyes aligned and clamps provided a small amount of tension while glue dried.  Instructions indicate the eye should be 15mm below the yard, I reduced this to 13mm as Ifelt it looked a little more to scale, and also seemed to match up better with diagrams in the AOTS series.  I also decided to use 3 stirrups per side against the 2 indicated on the plans as the spacing looked too great to my eye.
 

 
Horses were then added with yet more false splices around the center of the yard and around the cleats.  The cleats were the smallest I could manage but seem to be what is required to keep to appropriate scale.  The cleats are installed 1/20th of the length of the yard from the end.  I had previously used paper to simulate the iron bands for the end boom iron.
 


 
Yard dryfitted.  Although the stirrups and horses will need a little bit of adjusting wjhen finally in position, I'm pretty happy with the result.  Now need to replicate on the remaining yards now the plan of attack has been determined.  Its amazing how congested things are getting, not sure how I'll manage to get the trusses on and the sling lashing when I get there, but thats a challenge for the future.
 

Carl, Jonny, Nils, Mort and Jim and the 'likes', thanks for the "welcome back"...
 
Breaking up shaping the remaining yards with the first of what I suspect will be a lot of work on rigging the yards, the lower sling.
 
Previously estimated length of line was served, and then fed through itself to make a loop.  About 6mm was left to allow the end to be cut into a short taper.  GS Hypo glue was then placed on the end and rolled between my fingers.  The thin thread is the end of the serving line not yet trimmed)
 

 
Thread was then used to cover the unserved join, I used consecutive overhand knots, alternating sides.... 
 

 
Maybe a little bulky, but once trimmed its a reasonable approximation to a spliced, served loop.
 

 
Fitted to the main yard....
 

 
....and length checked to confirm it is of correct length.  Second time was a charm!
 

I'm finally back at it.  Very little time for anything for some time, but the break from Snake has brought me back more energized than ever to get her finished.  I'll probably continue to provide step by step photo updates on the rigging as reminders for me and maybe something helpful to others.
 
Not much, but evidence of progress.  Foretopmast stay completed and belayed, and boomkins installed...
 

Yards...
 
Putting rigging aside for a wee while to do some work on the yards.  Decided that I'm going to keep the jib boom off for as long as I can as it really does seem to make working on the ship easier (and probably safer).
 
The yards are probably the last point where I think this build could stall, so I'm quite keen to get past this.  Per instructions, yards were shaped with a small davids plane to get a rough shape and then sanded to shape.  I'm not sure the dimensions given in the plans are 100% accurate, but I'm following them anyway.  I will be more meticulous with "Jason" when I get to this point as I'll follow the AOTS book closely.  I've started with the main yard as a prototype and will finish this one before doing the others together.  Additional detailing, cleats and blocks should be fun, but I'll leave that for now.
 
To help secure the yard to the mast I inserted a small length of brass wire and drilled a hole in the mast, as well as installing the sling cleats.  There are some photo etch 'caps' that go onto the end of the yard, not sure these are needed, but they do have some wings on each side, presumably to simulate an iron band.  I don't have a photo, but they were way to thick/big at this scale and removed them.  I will possibly simulate with thin paper strips.
 
The kit provides two soft metal pieces to make up the quarter irons, which are to be joined by brass wire.  These are too thick for scale, but I think the kit can be forgiven for this.  After fiddling, I decided to replace the cast mast band with a thin strip of styrene, but thin card would probably be easier to use.  The hoop for the studding sail yard has two bumps that I'm guessing simulate the  hinge and cotter pin.  These need to be lined up I think and be parallel to the waterline.

 
The various pieces were drilled, glued together and attached to the yard.  To get these to align properly I used a piece of long dowel feeding into each hoop allowed each one to be fine tuned before glueing in place.  Also helped ensure they are symetrical, especially important for the boom irons.

 
Yard dry fitted for first time...

 
I had ordered some walnut dowel for the studding sail booms.  Of course, I now come to find that the alleged "3mm" dowel is in fact 2.5mm   Would welcome opinions on whether this looks OK, 0.5mm seems a big difference.

 
Using supplied 3mm beech dowel (of course, slightly larger than 3mm!) perhaps illustrates whats intended.  No need for a decision now, but it does appear a little more to scale so I'll probably try my luck again and order some 3mm walnut dowel.

Hamilton, Mike - thanks for the comments, and also to all for the likes.
 
Sjors - 'fast' is maybe relative 
 
Progressing with the rigging and have started tying off on cleats and pinrails.  Delicate procedure that did result in one of the bulkhead cleats coming loose - mustn't have glued it well enough.  It was a real swine to get back in straight with all the rigging, pin rails and carronades in place.
 
Question:  I'm tying off using the standard figure of 8 around the pin and using a dab of GS-Hypo glue to make doubly sure its secured, do people typically just trim this line off at the pin?  I was planning to simulate rope coils and thinking I can just make all these when everything is done and droop over each pin hiding any loose end.