NMBROOK

@ Nigel,
 
It's for me the first time that I'm rigging the cannons.
Done one breech rope     
Sorry, make one end of a rope to a ring that goes on an eyebolt......
Still try to find the mood to do the other things     
And a happy new year for you to from me and Anja.
Beside the building......I bought a 5000 pieces puzzle for her from Jan van Haasteren    
And guess what....it is saying USA !!!!!!!!!
So no building for her but making a puzzle.......
 
@ George,
 
I know you are a silence follower so thank you for the comment !
Much appreciated !!!!!
For you also the best wishes for 2015 !
And we head a great time.
We went next door so early in the morning it takes only 1 minute to get home     
Only the next morning was a little difficult.
So yesterday no building otherwise I glue a cannon on the bowsprit       
 
@ Sam,
 
Happy new year for you also !
I hope it will help you with that drawing.
I have search for it and found it so now someone else can have the benefit of it !
It's better that it is on different logs where you can find it easy.
 
Sjors
 
 

Thanks, Nigel ...
Having seen very many methods of trenailing on MSW, this is, without question, my (new) favourite !!
 
Incidentally, I'm aware of the aroma produced by the LoS.
Speaking from personal experience, the smell does fade (after awhile) and the neighbours will (eventually) forgive you.

Thank you very much indeed Patrick for your kind words
 
A few pointers if you or anyone fancy having a go
Seal the deck first,I used several coats of poly,pear is very absorbant.The thick cyano I use may have marked the deck otherwise.
Ensure you get a little 'bead' of cyano around the fixing.This stops the fixing being dragged out or deformed by the sanding process.
Use a sanding block to flat the copper down after trimming (nail clippers are good, although I have found some small end cutters now that get quite close)
I started with a 'coke can' quantity of warm water and added the tinniest drop of LOS.If no affect after several minutes,add a tiny bit more LOS.This was how I achieved the mild patina without turning the copper black.It really is tiny quantities of LOS,a tiny bit too much and the copper will start to blacken.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

Your aggie is looking great Sjors Good luck with my least favourite part of modelmaking,cannons and rigging,ERRR
 
Happy New year to you and Anja
 
Nigel

Hi Steve
The LOS I bought is a longlife gel.I reckon on a couple of blobs about 5mm diameter,really too small to measure as the gel is almost like treacle.Yes coke cans are the same size over here,but it was probably two thirds full as I had cut the top off (they make handy disposable containers,wife wouldn't have been happy if her pyrex stank like rotten eggs ).I recomend the gradually adding to the mix approach as copper compositions vary and you really are just wanting the very start of the process.When it starts to go red then you know it is going too far.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Patrick for your kind words
 
A few pointers if you or anyone fancy having a go
Seal the deck first,I used several coats of poly,pear is very absorbant.The thick cyano I use may have marked the deck otherwise.
Ensure you get a little 'bead' of cyano around the fixing.This stops the fixing being dragged out or deformed by the sanding process.
Use a sanding block to flat the copper down after trimming (nail clippers are good, although I have found some small end cutters now that get quite close)
I started with a 'coke can' quantity of warm water and added the tinniest drop of LOS.If no affect after several minutes,add a tiny bit more LOS.This was how I achieved the mild patina without turning the copper black.It really is tiny quantities of LOS,a tiny bit too much and the copper will start to blacken.
 
Happy New Year
 
Nigel

Nigel, that deck is breathtaking. I will have to give your LoS and copper method a try. The results you're achieving with it are incredible.

Nigel thanks for your kind comments I am happy that you are enjoying the journey.
 
Druxey, thanks.
 
Mark, in a word Yes. I'm pleased you have found some of these processes useful.
 
Steve and Mark, that make at least three of us
 
Thanks for all the likes
 
Pressing on with the con rods today the first task was to split and solder the brass for the big end bushing, I decided to make these individually so that I could check that it was going to work.
slitting the rod

 

 
soldered ready for machining
 

 
turning down to the flange diameter
 

 
The final bore was done with a 1/8th end mill after first using a centre drill then a 3/64th drill.
 

 
Turning the central part was very tedious with very light cuts and double checking the diameter after each pass of the tool.The bush was then parted off. 
Tthe bore is .125" and the body diameter is .156" so the thickness of the bearing wall is only .0155" and that made me very cautious.
 

 
I used a soldering iron and a pair of tweezers inside the bore to unsolder the bushing, it popped apart very cleanly.
 

 
I turned and hardened a new button for the bottom of the big end of the con rod.
 

 
when everything was cleaned up the moment of truth,...... it fit Yea...a little stiff but not much
 

 
Then I wanted to check the height inside the cylinder and was very pleased with the outcome, I did notice that I plopped the top part of the crankcase on backwards after uploading the photographs... excitement I guess.
 
 
Now I have to repeat the process all over again tomorrow and I also have to relieve the bottoms of the cylinder liners to clear the con rods. I had drawn this in the details but have not done it yet, once that is done tomorrow the the piston with be able to move up and down in a complete cycle
 
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Wonderful work as always Doris    I wish you well with your new job and for 2015
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

Thanks Augie, Sjors, Nigel, Grant and Joe for the nice comments and the good wishes, and thanks also to the "likes".
 
Bob

Hello Nigel, I wish you a happy new year . I want to thank you for your nice comments , for visiting my build log and also for the tips.I will purchase the cloth and the resin on Monday. I still have to check if  the zap epoxy finish resin is sold here in Athens. If not I will buy it online.Until then i will read some things about the fiberglass and resin.
 
Cheers
Dimitris

I have to admit my patience has been stretched several times working on the prow deck.I have had numerous pieces filed in the 'recycling section' and have had to remake them.I feel I am on the home straight now,but I can't believe how long it is taking.I include some pics of as it is today.The gratings are caldercraft 1mm ones as small children could fall through the ones supplied.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have fitted the bulkhead in place and faired the sides to match the hull.Now on to the prow.The kit prow,to be honest bears little resemblance to that of the artwork.The sides are far to deep and the grated deck is depicted as flat.To be honest this 3D nightmare has caused me a bit of headscratching,as to the best way to proceed.To remain faithful to the Van De Velde atwork the deck sits much higher at the beakhead and does not coincide with the mouldings on the outside.I figured the best way to start my jig was to glue in the supplied bulkheads for the stem.I only glued the top half of the slot allowing the ears to be sawn off later.I then profiled the top of the bulkheads and false keel to provide an acceptable curve.On top of this I glued(to the bulkhead ears only)a piece of 3mm ply which was cut out to match the supplied deck frame.The top of this ply is the bottom face of the deck.Today's work was concluded by clamping some steamed boxwood section in place and leaving overnight to dry.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have had a lovely long holiday weekend treenailing I have completed both sides under the wales and intend to give this area a few coats of polyurethane for protection.I have also inlaid some small pieces of maple to represent the bowtie piece that joins keel to sternpost.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Anja
Well I do cheat a bit in that the instructions on the Italian site are six months infront of those here in GB.It gives me a preview of whats to come and how little of the original partwork I will be using.To be honest I am changing so much that the instructions become almost redundant.
I include a few pics of progress to date.I am concentrating on one side at a time to relieve the tedium of constantly treenailing.You will notice the alterations to the upper gunports.These have been altered to accomodate the decorations.The kits supplied directions  are incorrect.I have acquired some black pre dyed boxwood strips to plank the upper hull where the ornamentation sits.This will cover all the alterations I have to make in this area, to create a more accurate representation of the original.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have edited this first post in view of my log relocation.This build did start as a modified version of the Deagostini partwork,but as you read through the log,you will discover virtually nothing remains from the kit.
  To date I have built and planked the hull.So far the only kit parts I have used are the bulkheads.These had to be reprofiled at the stern to give a 'proper' round tuck stern.The planking below the walnut wales is maple and that above is boxwood.The walnut section at the top is to be painted black(I used walnut as it is a third of the cost of boxwood).I have cut the gunports as per the instructions but I am going to 'double line'the gunports on the upper deck to reduce them in size.
 At present before I final size the gunports and add anymore detail,I am replicating the treenailing on the whole hull.After reading about the many different techniques I chose to drill 0.4mm holes then use dark wood filler.The hull was glass smooth and fully sealed before starting,and I found the process fairly simple akin to grouting tiles,although I estimate at between three and four thousand holes to be drilled!I made a simple jig to assist in marking where the frames would be.
Regards Nigel

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great looking deck Nigel. I like your approach to "scaling down" effects. I too like to use LoS. Ever since reading EdT's description of being able to use it "in situ" without affecting the surrounding timber, I've used it with copper in lieu of brass whenever I can. Just did the "bolts" in the frames of my cross section the same way and it works a treat. I find that it's also very easy to use - another bonus!

Hi Dimitris and Happy New Year
 
You're build is coming on fantastically.This beautiful vessel is a foreboding build in 1/84 let alone 1/100.I agree that fibreglass is the way to go for a permanent crack free hull.Cracks can appear years after construction otherwise.
Just a couple of bits of advise from my experience using this.I always use ZAP Epoxy finishing resin and fine woven cloth meant for RC aeroplanes This resin has a 3 hour set time,that isn't 'open' work time.However this is the only product I have found that gives you a 'comfortable' amount of time to complete the job.Cutting all the pieces of cloth before you start is a must to give yourself as much time as possible.Finally,you need to apply finish to your decks,the resin will bead on the deck at the upper edges of the hull.This will need sanding off when cured,the finish on the deck will stop a darker edge appearing on the planking when finished.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed mate There is a bit of a debate in Richard Ensor's restoration warship covering Lennox as to the use of iron spikes v treenails on the deck.This ship is same period,same yard so I have adopted a little artistic licence.To be correct they should be blackened but I felt that would create an OTT look and they would dominate the deck,detracting from the timber.As you know yourself,exact historical representation does not necessarily convey the same impression when scaled down,a balance needs to be struck IMHO,just like in plastic modelling.
 
Happy New Year buddy
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed mate There is a bit of a debate in Richard Ensor's restoration warship covering Lennox as to the use of iron spikes v treenails on the deck.This ship is same period,same yard so I have adopted a little artistic licence.To be correct they should be blackened but I felt that would create an OTT look and they would dominate the deck,detracting from the timber.As you know yourself,exact historical representation does not necessarily convey the same impression when scaled down,a balance needs to be struck IMHO,just like in plastic modelling.
 
Happy New Year buddy
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Steve I know Ed Tosti mentioned it doesn't mark the timber,but I was still fraught with trepidation not only that,but the LOS is neuturalised by a wash of dilute Bicarbonate of soda.Neither affected the timber,however the water raised the grain which gets 'knocked' back when flatting the varnish.Obviously sanding the deck after treatment would remove the patina.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel