NMBROOK

i received the quote (p&p) from Jim Brynes for the thicknesser - paid , so hopefully it will be here before the big guy in red arrives

Thank you Keith Yes,I feel the costs are well worth it.I am prepared to have to order 'as and when required' to help me overcome this hurdle.That is another reason why Royal William is a slow long term build.No way could I afford to invest in a bundle of timber for the whole project as this will run into a substantial three figure sum.
I think we are both of the same mindset with Ebony,overcoming the challenges of working with this wood is as rewarding as the final result.
All the best with your grating production and your new toys,I had many years in this hobby with no power tools,but the toys just speed things up so much and help no end with consistency
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Keith Yes,I feel the costs are well worth it.I am prepared to have to order 'as and when required' to help me overcome this hurdle.That is another reason why Royal William is a slow long term build.No way could I afford to invest in a bundle of timber for the whole project as this will run into a substantial three figure sum.
I think we are both of the same mindset with Ebony,overcoming the challenges of working with this wood is as rewarding as the final result.
All the best with your grating production and your new toys,I had many years in this hobby with no power tools,but the toys just speed things up so much and help no end with consistency
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Wow Kevin,this went well under my Radar As for gluing your patterns to the timber,you can't beat good old fashioned Pritt-stik in the UK Apply to the wood,carefully lay the paper template on and smooth from the centre outwards with a bank card,plastic offcut etc.I find it is best to leave a couple of hours before commiting to the saw,then you don't end up with the paper lifting.Removal is easy with a wet cloth and the adhesive residue is easily cleaned off and leaves no discoloration .
Anyway,I wish you all the best with your build mate and will be following along
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Richard and Tom
I am glad you find my logs helpful Richard as this is the main reason I post.I feel I have to 'pay back' for all the tips and tricks I have learned from others I still have a fair few to learn myself
Pear is expensive Tom,not helped that I buy mine already milled and thickness sanded.Yes I could save money buying from the merchant and milling my own,but at present I have no facilities to do this.As an example,a one metre board 9mm by 75mm works out about 30 euros in your money.With the ever increasing use of Ebony in my models,this sends the timber budget skyward,but I am hooked on incorporating it for more and more details.Unlike most,I really enjoy working with it,after 25 years working in the structural steel industry the associated mess from this wood is minimal compared to what I am used to
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Your planking is coming on well JP,you are quite correct,as long as the planking is in full contact with the stern fillers,no worries about how thin you have to take the planking at the sternpost.I think that the fact you are getting clinkering at the bow is a good pointer that you may have to spill some of these planks from sheet when it comes to the second layer to maintain the same line.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Oh and whilst I have the Camera out, here's a pic of the piece I put around the Rudder Hole.. not strictly accurate but looks a darn sight better than a flippin great hole in the deck   ideally it would have been set into the deck though ! I still suspect that there should be some kind of covering over this area similar to the 'Collar' covering the bottom part of the Rudder Hole on some builds (I might end up with one of these on Ballahoo too)
 
Photo Time Again..
 
Eamonn

All Righty Then.. Photos of Carronades as Promised.. Cos I'm Nice Like That   
 
Fairly noticeable size difference don't you think,  they are both allegedly 12 lbr's though the Upgrade is more the correct size, as per my sources they should be circa 2 feet 2 inch long which is a little over 1 cm at scale.. The kit ones probably wouldn't be out of place on the fore-deck of Victory 
The upgrades were bright brass when they arrived and were chemically 'blackened' to this deep metallic looking bronze colour.  Looking at them in the first proper bit of sun-light I've seen since treating them it seems they may need to go a little darker!
I shall have to contemplate this over a coffee or two...   
 
later edit.. for some reason some of my posts seem to have unintentional large bold text in them.. don't know why this is happening.. it isn't in the original 'pre posting' versions.
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

Hi,
 
after about 4 moths of silence there is an update of my build log of the RC.
I had quite a lot of changes in my personal life - wedding, flat moving,.. so not much time was left for ship modeling. I needed also to set up a workbench for the modeling work. Now I am mostly done. So hopefully updates to the build will come on regular basis.
 
So what has changed on the build during the long period? Just updates to the bow - including production of the ship figurehead... Again from Sculpey. Here are just a few pictures. I will try to make some more soon and post them.
 
Best regards,
Jan

Dear visitors of this build,
 
last days I have been working on several things. One of them are the doors and the deck cover (not sure what is the right term...) and also the handrails. 
 
There is also a picture of ornaments on the bow. There will be still some more decorations needed...
 
Thanks for watching! 

Thank you very much indeed Richard and Tom
I am glad you find my logs helpful Richard as this is the main reason I post.I feel I have to 'pay back' for all the tips and tricks I have learned from others I still have a fair few to learn myself
Pear is expensive Tom,not helped that I buy mine already milled and thickness sanded.Yes I could save money buying from the merchant and milling my own,but at present I have no facilities to do this.As an example,a one metre board 9mm by 75mm works out about 30 euros in your money.With the ever increasing use of Ebony in my models,this sends the timber budget skyward,but I am hooked on incorporating it for more and more details.Unlike most,I really enjoy working with it,after 25 years working in the structural steel industry the associated mess from this wood is minimal compared to what I am used to
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Now as promised,a picture walkthrough of the steps involved milling the 'grating' with backing spacer.
 
First a safepark position was created with the mill,a slot around 2mm to 3mm wide 5mm deep(the sheet is 6mm thick)All work is done with a 1mm milling cutter

 
Step two was to machine 1.5mm slots 1.5mm deep that will form the grouves for the battens to lay in.

 
Step three was to mill 1.5mm slots 5mm deep perpendicular to the batten slots.These are the gaps between the ledges.All slots had 1.5mm of material inbetween them i.e. the centre to centre distance is 3mm.

 
Finally the sections at each end were cut off to enable easy fitting of the overlength battens.Now also in this pic,because I was determined to have a go with this method to produce a finer pattern grating,is one with 1mm holes and 1mm ledges and battens.This was a complete success,not one chip to any of the nibs,although removing the sawdust was a very careful job with a soft brush.I think this is the way forward for Mordaunt's gratings although 1mm pear sheet for the battens will have to wait as my supplier of this is currently on their holidays


 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel, nice work!
don't tell me abou heavy. At the moment I am enjoying the two hafls of L'Artesien whilst I am working on the gunport frames. But once the two part are together she will be around the 5 Kilo mark.
 
What are you paying for pear in good old England?
 
best regards
Tom

Nigel,
thanks for the walk through.  I have been following along and you set a great example and supply terrific examples for beginners like me.
 
Richard

Thank you very much indeed Janos,Brian and Sjors
Sjors,you will have to come and give me a lift with the hull onto the scales      
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Now as promised,a picture walkthrough of the steps involved milling the 'grating' with backing spacer.
 
First a safepark position was created with the mill,a slot around 2mm to 3mm wide 5mm deep(the sheet is 6mm thick)All work is done with a 1mm milling cutter

 
Step two was to machine 1.5mm slots 1.5mm deep that will form the grouves for the battens to lay in.

 
Step three was to mill 1.5mm slots 5mm deep perpendicular to the batten slots.These are the gaps between the ledges.All slots had 1.5mm of material inbetween them i.e. the centre to centre distance is 3mm.

 
Finally the sections at each end were cut off to enable easy fitting of the overlength battens.Now also in this pic,because I was determined to have a go with this method to produce a finer pattern grating,is one with 1mm holes and 1mm ledges and battens.This was a complete success,not one chip to any of the nibs,although removing the sawdust was a very careful job with a soft brush.I think this is the way forward for Mordaunt's gratings although 1mm pear sheet for the battens will have to wait as my supplier of this is currently on their holidays


 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Seems about right Nigel.. might even get the first layer of planking on Convolution too...       
 
So No Worries There Then..
 
E
 
Thanks for looking in Stergios & David, photo's tomorrow, needless to say before I begin the Convulsion Build Log..     of course I may be being a tad optimistic !!

Great to see an update of sorts mate   Glad you enjoyed Venice,never been myself,but my mother had and always used to rave about it
You should just about have the finishing touches on the rigging in place before bedtime      
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Again Folks.. as you can see I'm back from the Hols and have the building buzz again!!
 
Latest... 
 
I've chemically blackened the new upgraded guns.. boy are they small compared to the kit supplied ones (I'll photograph them tomorrow side by side for comparison as the difference needs to be seen to be believed   ) I forsee more curled up in a corner rocking gently back and forth after attempting to rig them..
The blackening looks more of a deep bronze than actually black but I have to say I really like it.. could probably just pop them back into the blackening solution.. after going through the prep steps first of course.. if I wanted to get them truly black, but then again I could have just painted them in that case   the deep bronze looks the business though.
 
Next order of work is to permanently attach the Hatches and the Dog-house, get the Rudder fittings sorted.. on that note I'm going to try to knock up some half way decent Gudgeons & Pintels as the kit recommendations are basic to say the least  more of those famous last words right there!! Then it's onto the Channels & Chains.  And if I have time after lunch I'll address the Masts, I mean how hard can all that other lot be.............               
 
Stay Tuned Folks
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn
 
Venice was a hoot by the way, highly recommend the place 

I think shellac has a nice antique feel and look to it. I think I would lightly sand the finish coat and apply a good wax. IMO,oil would tend to attract dust and be difficult to clean on the details of a model.
 
Sincere Regards,
 
Bill

A valid point Brian,the main advantage to this method,aside from being authentic to the original is that you are only in effect producing half the number of necessary 'combs'.Trying to make crisp combs individually in Pearwood is virtually impossible,I did try,but the wood just chips away.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Now as promised,a picture walkthrough of the steps involved milling the 'grating' with backing spacer.
 
First a safepark position was created with the mill,a slot around 2mm to 3mm wide 5mm deep(the sheet is 6mm thick)All work is done with a 1mm milling cutter

 
Step two was to machine 1.5mm slots 1.5mm deep that will form the grouves for the battens to lay in.

 
Step three was to mill 1.5mm slots 5mm deep perpendicular to the batten slots.These are the gaps between the ledges.All slots had 1.5mm of material inbetween them i.e. the centre to centre distance is 3mm.

 
Finally the sections at each end were cut off to enable easy fitting of the overlength battens.Now also in this pic,because I was determined to have a go with this method to produce a finer pattern grating,is one with 1mm holes and 1mm ledges and battens.This was a complete success,not one chip to any of the nibs,although removing the sawdust was a very careful job with a soft brush.I think this is the way forward for Mordaunt's gratings although 1mm pear sheet for the battens will have to wait as my supplier of this is currently on their holidays


 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for the explanation Nigel.  If I ever work with Pearwood I'll keep that in mind!

Thanks Nigel for the thing how you make the gratings.
I think I bring you a visit to see how it goes   
Put her on a scale now and when she's finished.
Maybe you need a crane then ? 
 
Sjors