NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to jack.aubrey in HMS Guadeloupe by jack.aubrey - 1:48 scale - ex French Le Nisus - Brick de 24
Wednesday, October 15th, 2014
Today I started to apply the first planks. .
These are strips of lime wood, very beautiful, size 6 x 2 mm, purchased at a model hobby shop in Milan hinterland.
The first strip, in the photos the lower one, is in one piece and has been installed according to the line references of the deck, references which were previously marked on the bulkheads with a small incision on the outside and passed through with a pencil. With this one piece plank I secured a very accurate alignment and natural sheer.
Then I started to apply shorter planks concentrated in the area from amidships to the stern to rise, in order to properly cover the deck walls.
Next activity to reach the same situation from amidships to the bow. I hope tomorrow. . friendliness, Jack.Aubrey
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/CAM00352_zps7734b1f0.jpg
02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/CAM00353_zpsa31b4e8c.jpg
03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/CAM00354_zps5195574f.jpg
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction pt2
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction pt2
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Model Ship Building Secrets Dvd
To be honest Nils,after reading your post four times,I cannot work out whether you are having a go at me personally for posting my find of this DVD.After all in your eyes I could be seen as promoting it.My only question is,surely your argument would then apply to any modeler who chooses to write a book.After all,are they not 'cashing in' on the hobby?In my opinion a DVD is no different to a book,other than it probably does demonstrate things a little.better.
I would mention again that I have no connection with this DVD's producers.
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Hi Nigel, carvings were made from boxwood.
For the look, apple is better than pearwood in the way it has more grain. Interesting wood to work.
I did some carving in pear, it was well acceptable. I think that apple is heavier than pear, pear being exceptionnally light for his density.
I guess apple would produce very nice carving details and comparatively to the color of boxwood it would be in many cases more acceptable.
The first year I used apple, many cuts were made about 1 cm thick and the wood was left to dry all winter long in a room inside.
The smell was not very pleasing.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from themadchemist in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction pt2
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Te fist time I used applewood was about 20 years ago for this frigate especially for the planking
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction pt2
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from themadchemist in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction pt2
I next glued battens into the notches in the ledges.The height of the battens was oversize as the tops would be milled off.I used aliphatic,with a drop in each joint rather than using dilute PVA,
When set,the top face of the gratings was faced of again with the miller,but still above finished level.Whilst on the mill bench,I trimmed the ends of the battens flush with the end ledges.
I have made the decision to carry out representation of all fastenings with copper.This was my original intention at the start and I have decided to stick to it.So now to the grating nailing.I have started drilling two holes at each intersection 0.3mm diameter.Unfortunately this must be done manually with a pin vise.Due to the drill diameter,I was unable to find anything adequately concentric and small enough to hold the drill in the mill or rotary tool.Into the holes I am bonding with CA 0.27mm copper wire.I have made a start in the pics,but you can appreciate it may be a little while before part 3 .The top face still has around 0.4mm of material to be removed so this should eradicate the glue residue.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello Friends,
today I show some news of my little naval shipyards.
In the quarter galleries were still glued the window. The tiny windows were made of acrylic glass. I have fixed this with Micro Kristal Klear.
As a consequence I had to install wooden strips on the quarter galleries yet. These are just decoration.
Soon it continues here again. -
NMBROOK reacted to captainbob in The use of Applewood in modelling?
When I lived in Indiana the local apple orchard sold split apple logs from there old trees as fire wood. You might try your local orchard.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to yamsterman in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Hi Nigel
Glad to be of some help. Great work on the royal William. Reminds me of Bernard frolichs approach.
Cheers...mick
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
I've been working on the fore lower mast. This involved shaping the mast and mast head, making and adding the bibbs and cheeks, adding the bands to the mast and head ( black painted paper), making and adding the front fish (notched to fit over the bands), adding the wooldings, making and adding cleats and making and adding the mast coat. I also made some cleats for the jeers to be added to the mast head after the top is attached. The top is still awaiting blocks to be attached, as is the mast head. The mast has not been permanently set yet.
Bob
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Thank you,I did have a suspicion that apple was a premium timber for modelling purposes,best see if I can get the next lot of 'trimmings'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to yamsterman in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Hi Nigel
Try the stiles and bates website. They sell apple timber as blanks for turning spindles bowls and pens, along with a few other interesting timbers.
Cheers....mick
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NMBROOK got a reaction from GuntherMT in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to nancysqueaks in The use of Applewood in modelling?
Hi Nigel, I collect as much apple as possible. A lot in the area I live in from
the old cider orchards - but one has to still be lucky.
It is harder than pear and takes a very sharp edge. Selection is the key here
even from the same log. Bends well if steamed. The finish is super to say the
least. Sometimes a bit of a wavy grain in small branches, more often a close
straight grain. Cutting tools need to be very sharp. My main use at the moment
is small deck structures and some framing.
So I'd put the word out! Regards, Nick.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Your ratlines look great mate I always knew you wouldn't have any difficulties Congrats on reaching 100 pages,it is a great pleasure to follow your journey from the start
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hey all! Ok so I made the ratlines for the starboard side of the mainmast. Lots of beginner misstakes, but it was quite enjoyable work. To be honest shaping the dead eyes and metal parts for them was more challenging on the nerves as there where many stages. Once these are on you have a result. I like that as it gives energy to continue. I decided to do not go by a template, but did them freehand, by the eye and tried to look at the reference instead. I did end up with more rows then the original at the museum.
I still need to weather the ratlines and give a light coat of varnish to hide the CA but this is where Ï'm at now.
/Matti
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Awesome, as always top notch work!
/Matti
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Grating construction Part one.
Not only do I want to produce more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.
The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.
To be continued
Kind Regards
Nigel
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