NMBROOK

Hi Mates,
 
Installed carriages now just need to clean up the ropes. I will leave that for now and move to an other area TBD. Thanks for looking in (:-) 
 
PS: first pic, is self explanatory, but found it easy to position carriage then drill a small hole in deck for installation.
 
MIchael

Preparing the bow
 
Had to do a bit of thinking on how I want to proceed with the bow as I couldn't get comfortable with the kit approach to attach the bowsprit.  This basically has the bowsprit sitting in small recess in the keel former, and although no-one has taken issue with this I wanted to revisit it.  Another problem also came to light s part of this process.  The rake of the bowsprit on the plans is less than that suggested in the AOTS book (~17deg on plans vs ~20deg in AOTS), doesn't seem much of a difference but its enough to cause the bowsprit to interfere with the figure head.  Further review highlighted another discrepancy, the AOTS book clearly shows the top of the bowsprit appearing through the top deck at the bow.  The bowsprit dimensions also appear a little odd on the plans, being made from 10mm dowel, but reduced to 6.5mm at the saddle, that doesn't seem to match the AOTS book either which shows the bowsprit thinning but only after the saddle and not the same degree.
 
So, considering all this I decided to allow the bowsprit to be seated more securely through the hull (as per the original) and tweaked to alignment to ensure it clears the figurehead.  Not sure exactly how I'll do this but should have some options now.
 
Bow arrangement with the slot for the bowsprit

 
Hole drilled in forward bulkhead and bow shapers adjusted to allow bowsprit to feed through

 
Bowsprit arrangement being examined by Captain Stirling, balsa wood bow filler also installed but not yet fully shaped.

 
....and also, planked the false deck with maple simulating planking per the AOTS.  This will not really be seen that much but it was a good chance to see how the maple would turn out.  I didn't like the supplied Tanganika at all, it looks paler than I've seen before, which is fine, but has a lot of brown 'flecks' in it that look really out of scale and a little odd.
 

Hi All
 
Right here are a few pictures of a garboard plank run. The edge of the plank is the top edge (when the ship is the right way up!) of the making tape.
 









 
So as I have absolutely no idea   can anyone tell me if this look even remotely right? (where's that "HELP!" emoticon when you need it! )
 
Cheers
 
Nick

Antony is spot on!The hinge on your model is a standard Amati fitting,along with the door frame.The only difference may occur is that your hinge has been stamped out and the ones you have bought are photo etched.There is a possibility that Amati has changed their manufacturing technique for this fitting.I would call or email Cornwall Model Boats first and ask them about the first two hinges listed on Antony's linked page.The pictures are from Amati's fittings catalogue and they haven't changed them in many years.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

Hi Jack
If all your internal skeleton is hidden,I wouldn't rule out using MDF for everything.The only thing I would suggest is using 6mm MDF for the frames,4mm is far to pliable.Personally,if you stick with plywood,I would change to 6mm birch ply for the frames,it gives a much better bearing surface for the planks.I know the recent builds you have posted have had 4mm bulkheads supplied by the kit manufacturer,but they are working to financial constraints,you can do as you please and make life a little easier into the bargain
The only thing I found when working with MDF is that don't use your normal files,it will take forever ,I use the rough permagrit ones,although very coarse they work the MDF easily as it is nothing like normal timber.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mark
I have Donald Dressell's book.I agree with Brian,this is an excellent read.The tutorials on here are excellent,however the book provides the background information into the why's and wherefore's before getting 'stuck in'.I do think you will find the book will answer many of the questions you ask and probably a few you haven't thought of yet.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks so much Grant and Nigel.
 
Don't be fooled by appearances Nigel. I'm every bit of that age -- and very happy to still be here.
 
Bob

Hi Mark
There are actually three styles to plank a model in.Firstly,the kit route,which is dictated by the fact that you use precut strips.Second,the as the original route which will include the odd drop plank and stealer and finally the contemporary model style.This is as the original models were planked and does not follow the practice on the original.The later two,invariably require spilling as bending parallel strip into complex compound curves creates problems.
The theory behind putting thread,lining tape or whatever onto the bare hull structure to divide the area up,is to ensure the planking adopts pleasing 'lines' when viewed form different angles,if you divide the whole area up in one go,the planking will adopt some strange lines due the changes in hull form.The planking widths are not necessarily all the same width throughout the lower hull at each station line to create the 'flowing' appearance.This is a very simplified explanation on a discussion that could easily go into pages and pages.
 
Kind regards
 
Nigel

Thank you, folks.  Yes, have been reading the tutorials here on MSW, that's where my questions begin...
Does anyone know where I might find the Roberts book (or brochure)?  I haven't seen any search results for that one.  The D.Dressell book is already on order!  

Nigel,
 
NO I had not linked over. Thanks for the heads up, I will Google this and certainly spend much quality time looking at the work of such an amazing artist.  
 
PS: Many more than "a handful" at MSW (:-)
 
Thanks my friend
 
Michael

Needing a little break from the brush, I had an urge to turn some wood.  So I knocked out this very basic little display base this morning.  Wood turning has always been one of my great loves.
 

I didn't want to do any close up shots of the stern area until I first was able to finish the treenailing and then staining. 
 
 
Also added the lift rope and rings to the gun port lids.

 
 
Finally got around to wiping a thin coat of poly to her walnut bulwarks.  Brings out the rich grain very nicely.  Liking the contrasting mix of colors from deck planking to bulwarks to the rails.

Panels mounted and trimmed out.

Hull painted to water line as suggested by all my mates.....8 coats of diluted acrylic.

The water line landed very nicely just below the gun port lids.  I really liked that.
As you can see, I've got another load of treenailing ahead of me.

Decided to paint all of her rails black....kinda liking the contrast (need some expert commentary on that issue)
 
Not going to do the forward panels for a while as I would like to spend some time on deck fixtures as a change of pace.
First, more treenailing.....lots of 'em. 

Real happy to finally be making a little bit of sawdust again.
Knocked out these two little water pumps this morning, along with a couple of knights.

 

Nigel,
 
This might be it, but this one has no interior, but the work as SO brilliant, almost not believable. Plastic no less.  Be sure to scroll through ALL of the pages, as pics come back up later during the scroll. A huge treat for the eyes. The aging look is beyond words.
 
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234929054-revell-172-type-viic41-u-boat-u995/
 
Michael

Anthony,
 
There is a Forum dedicated to the Disney Nautilus. Some of the projects are quite beautiful; you will need to register
 
http://nautilussubmarine.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=8
 
MIchael

Hi MD1400cs.
Yea very very nice.
I have a set of plans somewhere for the Nautilus .
 
A interesting build as its a working version.
 
Regards Antony.

On this subject, well let's REALLY spend some money....
 
http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/acatalog/Nautilus_TMAX-2158-ext.html

Looks a very nice model.If it is 150 parts(I cannot find the mentioned on the website),personally I would rather save up for the Engel U boat for that sort of cash.
I have to agree with Antony,I am deeply envious of the timber availability in the US
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Dave
 
Vivian raises a good idea.If you check Alex Banarov's Cumberland build in the scratch section,he demonstrates good use of copper strip 'busbars' to provide a power source to the LEDs at each deck level.In the UK,just google 'the component shop'.They are the main source of LEDs over here for modelmakers.They also give advice on installation and wiring on their website
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Chris
 
I think you know my vote goes for Prince Given your attention to detail on Victory,it would make a nice change for me to build something almost out of the box   .I say almost,as I would probably swap the walnut for swiss pear   .No rush,I have umpteen projects on the go for the meantime    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
As we are both members of the European Union,why don't we get the same holidays as Italy?????            

Hey Dave. I´m building a chinese junk and decided to light on the cabin. That gave me some headeache for not planning it really on advance (I mean, to plan all the aspects, including the need to fix problems if they come to be). So, leds are great but you´ll have to think all aspects of it - I suggest using copper stripes to wires and a good soldering plan for them - bad soldering can bring all your plans down.

Prince is my favourite. I re-designed it to allow more lower deck detail - can't wait to start this one!
 

Congratulations on the bending Bob    ,I admit I thought you wouldn't get that,I shall view you as the Uri Geller of wood bending from now on     Your model is looking fabulous,it serves as a testimony as to what can be achieved from a kit .
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers Nigel, if it is a first, I hope I'm not heading over a cliff    Time will tell....