NMBROOK

Hi Geoff
I was led to believe this was only being trialed at the moment,i.e.offered in specific parts of the country to gauge reaction.Unless something has changed,this probably wouldn't run the full quantity of issues,a bit naughty I know.The model does address the forecastle issue present on the caldercraft kit,the cc kit was developed to information present at the time,before the additional forecastle deck was discovered in the Solent fairly recently.The images I have seen though,are of a fairly simplistic model,especially concerning masting and rigging.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Aha! I tried using tissue paper to do the planking in my Royal Louis decks, but that didn't work for me because I tried the "mass gluing" method. I see now that planks should be laid separately. That is a whole new animal. I may try that on the upper deck of my ship later.
 
Thanks for the info.

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All
Just a follow up post showing the above deck section scraped and given a coat of poly.The planking does not go to the edges due to how this section fits into the Norske Love's skeleton
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Hello all.I managed to finish the bowsprit rigging - resembles a spider web. Would be much easier if I had 3 hands.
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

Nigel,
    Thanks.  Maybe I will do some experimentation.  I have been using the old pencil-along-the-edge method.  It works relatively well but thre is always room for improvement.

Nigel,
   Are there any issues with sanding the deck once the glue is all dry?
 
Nigel/David B/All,
   I understand David's method is for when you are slicing planks from a sheet where width of plank=thickness of sheet.  Instead of painting the edge, would it work if you glued the tissue to the sheet and made the slices after it dried?

Thanks Jason & Nigel for the advice..  though I'm realllllllllly not more skilled than you Jason.. I'm having to work it like a rodeo clown just to keep up with ye folks having a bad day  
Hmmm so black paper/card looks like the solution, as I mentioned the doors will be open (or more likely half open if you follow) but I don't have any plans to make them functional
Might try the Tamiya tape too Nigel. Though I do have very very thin strips of Brass plate.. same stuff I used for the Anchor Rope reinforcing on the Hatches, I can cut / file it 'fairly easily' .. :huh: :huh:
If any other ideas spring to mind then fire away folks.. but the paper/card/Tamiya Tape idea may be hard to beat, especially with the space available too!
 
Stay Well
 
 
Eamonn

Eamonn,
 
I think black paper of a suitable thickness, would work. As Jason pointed out, metal would probably look overscale.

Now I'm thinking out loud, but you could simulate a hinge by wrapping the end of the paper arms around a piece of thin wire

Hi Eamonn
Just a thought mate,not tried this,but a 'lightbulb' moment   You could try sticking some Tamiya masking tape to a flat clean surface,giving it a coat of black paint,then cutting out the hinge shape with a sharp scalpel blade.Simply stick in position and a thin coat of poly in position will seal the hinges in place.Don't know for sure this would work,just 'thinking aloud',but may be worth experimenting.Failing that,paper would be my choice,cutting out thin brass is a lot of work for minimal gain when the same effect can be achieved with a lot less hassle.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Bob
For future reference,I pinched an idea from Dafi on his Victory build.If you drill a hole in the end of a BBQ skewer and glue the drill bit into this.You can feed this through the gunport on the opposite side to the bulwark you are drilling.I have found it much kinder to drillbits and miles easier than using a pin vise in the restricted space.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Ye are all not going to believe this.. but I dropped the piece AGAIN ! I had picked it up in a pair of tweezers to examine the 'bolts' effect of the 3 blobs of glue when suddenly it isn't in the tweezers anymore and I'm back on my hands & knees searching the carpet !!
 
Found It .. Painted It.. and Glued It !   Shouldn't be able to loose it now !! famous last words, as I'll probably loose the entire Hatch/Grating !!
 
Might be able to have a photo tomorrow if I can talk a friend into bringing his camera in later (that's the chap whose camera I was testing Bindy   !!)
 
Stay Well Folks
 
 
Eamonn
 
Bonus Content..
 
Tip Of The Day #1.. If you are going to pick up small pieces in Tweezers/Fingers then please please do so over a large white sheet of paper and not directly over the Dreaded Carpet Monster   
Tip # 2.. When painting small items such as the above, don't panic if the piece suddenly vanishes from the work surface, chances are it is embedded in the hairs of the paint brush !!    (this little gem of a tip saved me from Carpet Search Mk 3)
 
Priceless tips like this are available to buy in book form from Eamonn's Filler & Timber Company ( A wholly owns subsidiary of Clamps Pegs & Pins Corp.) for a modest fee !  

Nice to see an update buddy That's one more than me  
 
Your 'doghouse should look fine and dandy.Only suggestion I would make if you are fitting stairs,is to make the distance down from your combing to the first step the same as the stair pitches You may have thought of this anyway,if so I apologise
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.have finished one build,but can't put a log on here  Sorry for being off topic,but explains the reduced modelling hours

Hi Keith
Yes the excess glue is easily shaved off the plank faces whilst it is semi-hard.I realise Dr Mike does his caulking on mass,but he uses normal paper,not tissue which is thinner and more delicate.Any irregularities are overcome with scraping as my planks are overthick to allow for this.One point with Dr Mikes system,is that he invariably works to the larger scales and his deck planks are scale thickness,this will give him a strip around 2mm thick plus.Part of the reasoning behind using tissue is a thinner line,suitable for smaller scales.Dr Mike advocates glue with pigment in for these smaller scales and I didn't fancy that as it will follow any irregularities in the plank edges,the surface finish on the edges would have to be nigh on perfect.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
The deck section here is for a scratch built Norske Love  at 1/72 The planks are 3mm wide.I shall post pics here when scraped and finished so you get an impression.Hopefully by next weekend if all goes to plan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That Ironman stuff is mental looking Nigel.. I think that even at my fittest I'd have struggled to manage even a part of that !
 
Managed to cut a piece out of the Doghouse Roof to allow the sliding part to 'reveal' the opening to below, so things appear to be moving on the Ballier again !  
 
Enjoy your cycling ! Cavandish must be looking over his shoulders in worry  
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

Thanks mate   Maybe if I had my time again the T de F may have been an option   but not on that bike,it is only UCI legal for time trials.I have had the challenging notion of entering an ironman before I am Fifty     .Just Google Ironman,Kona,now that will make you feel tired        
If so,I have a lot of work to do        
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
Interesting and very useful tutorial.  Will have to keep this in mind for future builds

Nice to see an update buddy That's one more than me  
 
Your 'doghouse should look fine and dandy.Only suggestion I would make if you are fitting stairs,is to make the distance down from your combing to the first step the same as the stair pitches You may have thought of this anyway,if so I apologise
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.have finished one build,but can't put a log on here  Sorry for being off topic,but explains the reduced modelling hours

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you for your explanation, Nigel. I have been thinking of trying your method, but I am not sure if it would work with my ship being 1/72 scale. Your Mordaunt is 1/60 scale and it looks absolutely beautiful. I guess i'll just have to experiment and see if it works!

Nigel, It depends on the paint.  I have used this method with pear, and apple as well as several hardwoods.  Once the piece has been brought to the right thickness I would give it a coat of sealer.  Once dry I would spray it on usinf either a rattle can or my airbrush.  Since the paint would be half dry by contact I never had any problem with bleeding.  But you are correct that experimenting is the best way to do it.
David B