NMBROOK

The infill blocks is a great idea.  That also answers another issue in the same area. Thank you very much.

Mark - New Year resolution is to shift over to the Royal William for a few months but my experience with building the Wilhelm zu Pferde has taught me so much that I fear I may have to make a better approach with the Royal William. Stay tuned..
 
Nigel - do you have the Mordaunt kit ? I had a look at the metal castings for the transom components and essentially what you see in the drawings is what you add to the build. The transom/ stern is simply covered by the metal parts and is one of the easiest of all the Euromodel builds. The Royal William transom is a gigantic jigsaw but the only mistake people make with that is that they assume the various metal components are the wrong shape. BIG mistake !! The Wilhelm zu Pferde I had to carve a rider on a horseback and so the list goes on. The Mordaunt transom is very easy. Have I answered your question ? Have attached a drawing for others to view.
 
Keith Julier's books - he wrote a build for the Royal William AND for the French frigate La Renommee, both of which are from Euromodel. His books are another excellent tool but like my own works, should only be considered as a guide and not prescriptive. To 'follow the leader' is to destroy the intent of the Euromodel philosophy.
 
Pete

Krulzelpuntz: 
http://www.castem.co.jp/lostwax/e-tech.html.
 Just one site that will show and explain the process much better than I could ever do, you will see that the tree is only a structure built from the wax patterns themselves, all joined together so one pore will fill them all. I would think that the method could be adapted to using resin, might require an injection device or a large sprue so the mold can be filled from the bottom to prevent voids.
 Casting metal guns, just as casting resin guns can be rewarding in itself, it also is knowledge that could be applied to other needs. Have read that molten metal, pored into a sand mold was the plastic for the world for hundreds of years and castings still are produced in great numbers. Few small foundry's have survived, but the means and reference material for an individual  to produce their own casting, still exists.
jud

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

I thought I would bump this topic as I have a couple of pics showing an example of what can be done with a miller that would be awkward to do by hand.I made this rather small jig to produce glazing frames for the skylight of a Royal Caroline build(log coming very soon).This jig took literally 10 mins from start to finish.The circular recesses are for glue clearance and the central slot is to provide clearance for tweezers,shown in picture for scale.The boxwood is actually 0.7mm square and the jig enables me to make two at a time.The long sides will be cut after removal from the jig.Tamiya masking tape provides the hitec clamp.
Kind Regards Nigel

I would just like to say you are doing a fantastic job Pete.I do agree as I have mentioned before,Euromodels plans surpass everything else I have seen.If I could ask you one question,it would be 'does the Euromodels plan of Mordaunt show the stern as in the kit,or is it more correct i.e.with lower balcony?'
 
For anyone interested couple of Royal William Build logs on here including a 1/50 scratchbuild.
 
http://www.koga.net.pl/forum.html
 
Kind Regards Nigel

For your interest,although you may have seen it anyway.A build log of the ST with scratchbuilt stern,obviously the design heavily influenced by Crespo's book.
http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=34233
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Nigel and believe me, getting the nylon to lay nicely along the deck railing was no small feat.
 
Keith, I had an email from a guy tonight who had watched one of my "build log" YouTube videos of my Fantail Launch. He said he uses isopropyl alcohol as the thinner and that it works great so I gave it a try in conjunction with some new Loctite 5 minute epoxy I already had laying in my desk. I had plenty of working time since it was thinned to just about the consistency of water. I wish I had more epoxy as I'm eager to see what kind of final finish the hull will have.
 
I also plan to use slightly thinned epoxy to coat the whole inside of the hull too, well where I can reach anyway.

There's a painting I've seen and darned if I can remember who did it or where it is... it was either on DDM or MSW 1.0 of her.  Had the Trinity for a figurehead, as I recall.  
 
Edit:  found it...http://i62.servimg.com/u/f62/13/02/90/30/titel210.jpg

Looks pretty darn good to me Shawn,great work   You have managed to keep it tight and neat around the deck rail,which was always going to be the hard part with it in place.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

... and here goes basic structure. Door and two pairs of windows missing.
 

Hi Keith...
Thank you themadchemist, thekindphilosopher... For all these thoughts and expressions...
It's impossible to not be like-minded... And "those mid-build blues" has been my favorite...
You don't build the DSotM from a kit only but you invent also scratch parts through your imagination... Your build is unique. So thinking is an important part of it...
Thank you again for your concern, for cheering me up...

There nothing wrong with a good stalling. I've been stalling on the DSotM rigging for a bit now. I'm using the excuse that I need more time to make decisions.
I seem to do this at every step, but I feel it pays dividends as I do a better job when I don't rush things. Sometimes one needs time to let ideas sit and develop before jumping into a new part of a build. I assume that maybe this is worse on a first build, or a part of a build that one has never attempted before. Say rigging a gaff fore and aft rig versus a square rig.
 
To prevent too much guilt for loafing, I started my longboat project, which is turning out to be a lot of FUN .
Of course Popeye goes into Henry Ford mode and starts an assembly line. Everyone reacts differently to those mid-build blues.
 
I suggest some good tunes and a few hours on MSW, cruising through some of the great build logs. Although that sometime can make things more clear, but sometime worse. Michael Motts Bristol cutter gave me some great ideas on rigging that I want to use for my pilot boats rigging but now I must think about scaling them down. The 2 edged sword of reality. Don't forget that thinking things through is part of building also.
 
No matter how long you need. Your fans will be here waiting to see what you've done. Genius can not be rushed and the Berlin deserves only the best.

Hi Nigel,
You are so gentle my friend... Believe me, these are both equally pleasant to follow the builds like yours, full of mastery and to build mine...

Hi Ferit
I echo what  Michael has said.We are sadly missing updates from our friend                             
Just one line,one knot and the journey to the finish line begins      
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hello Shipmates,
EUROMODEL HELP DESK - without going into the reasons behind why I am running this info desk from South Australia for Euromodel, let me assure all and sundry that the work is purely non-commercial, non-financial and I just do it for fun ! I am currently building all of their ships but how far I get depends on who asks me what !!! So specifically, I am flat-out on the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde (a German frigate) at the moment and so far have published six parts - text and photos - on the Euromodel website under 'Customer Assistance'. Have a look at it since it contains many ideas applicable to all their ships. Free to download. Purely my own ideas on how to put this ship together but at least it is a guide but definitely not an instruction manual. I would not dare to presume to tell others how to build these ships as the detail in these plans is incredible. I also read somewhere in this thread a query about sails. Euromodel DOES include cloth and detailed drawings for sails. I am easy to contact through the Helpdesk on the Euromodel website so look forward to hearing from anybody.
 
My apologies for not posting on the MSW as I am too wrapped up in creating these manuals .... but I will try to mend my ways.
 
Piratepete007 (actually Peter)

You are probably missing a trick,as the Deagostini part work is now in the UK,I dare say they may be a few takers,that is on top of all those who are,or are planning to build the vessel on this Forum and others.I would still buy your parts knowing you are making a profit,after all we still have bills to pay.
Kind Regards Nigel
P.S.I would also add your front bulkhead to my list,That is stunning!

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Nigel, you have been incredibly helpful, you rock.

Hi Shawn,yes been there tried that.It is heavy chopped strand mat that is included in these body repair kits.If you use this you will be filling and sanding for ever,it is far too rough for this application.This mat is only suitable when making a hull in a mould.You will find the woven material in model shops specializing in RC planes more than boats.The woven material is wafer thin.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks again Nigel, I found some denatured alcohol in my shop and a few pairs of nylons I had been keeping around to use with my swimming pool skimmer filter. I'm going to give the nylons a try and see how it turns out. Hopefully I have a posting to share later today showing positive results...I only wish I hadn't already added the mahogany trim around the hull, it will sure make this more of a challenge. 

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

You are very kind, thank you, but I am not really doing it for profit (probably should... ). If my own model will look good with it- I will be more then happy, and if there will be ANY other person that will think alike- that will be undeserved bonus.

Hi Ulises
This is the first time I have looked through your log and I have to say great work!! the attention to detail and care you are putting into the rope work is fantastic.Balancing the tension of some of those lines is not easy but you have mastered it with great precision.
Kind Regards Nigel

Been out in the shop and had a look at the thinners bottle.It doesn't give a list of chemical content and may just be denatured alcohol rebranded.It is easily available for me and inexpensive as it goes along way,so I have never tried anything else.Because you are heavily thinning the resin and it is going on Balsa,the balsa is the reinforcement,so reducing the need for a binder.Had the timber been denser and less absorbent then yes I would of recommended a form of mat over any other option.Densities of balsa do vary a lot so the only way you will know for certain if giving it a go with resin only first and then mat later if necessary.One thing is for sure,if you use both processes,your hull will be like concrete,just not as heavy
Kind Regards Nigel